"Andy Asberry" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 09:39:01 GMT, "R.H." wrote:

Added a few more photos today:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


#255 is a horse-drawn wagon axle nut wrench. I have a couple.
http://home.neb.rr.com/mvwcnews/gloss.html

Yes, it's for wagon axle nuts, thanks for the link.

"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
tone.ca...
In article
, B.B.
u wrote:

257. A handle.

It's a bottle opener, for those of us who remember caps that weren't
twist-off.

Correct.

http://www.blakjak.demon.co.uk/gey_chr0.htm

Very well put but ever since I read it everything I look at is red!!

Maryann

"Anything can be anywhere!"

SteveB wrote:

New what is it question.

I bought a meat fork at a yard sale. It also came with a knife. The fork
has two tines. Both items have nice bone or antler handles. They look like
they are probably fifty years old.

On the meat fork, there is a folding thingus just up from the handle. It
moves ninety degrees. It is wishboned shape just like the meat fork. It
folds up or down. When folded down, it lays along the handle. When folded
up, it is at a ninety to the handle. When it is folded up, you can sit the
fork down, and the two points of the wishbone and the end of the horn handle
keep the two tines off the surface you sit it on. This is the only use I
can think of for the moveable piece.

Is that what it is used for, or does the piece have another/other uses?

Steve

Known as a guard rest, offers protection from the knife and as you
surmise, a rest for the fork.

Tom

In article ,
R.H. wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
In article ,
R.H. wrote:

[ ... ]

Agreed. For a ten-turn pot, with the first digit counting
actual complete turns, and the other two showing tenths and hundredths
of
a turn.

This one might be a little different than the one you have in mind, one
complete turn (by hand) of the silver dial counts from 0 to 36, up to
999.

Hmm ... that would give 27.75 turns to go full scale. I have
seen a very few pots which were twenty turn instead of ten turn -- but
even that would not reach full scale. Perhaps this one was made to go
on something else -- a mechanical tuning device in some custom
equipment. Normally, they are set up to go to full scale at the end of
ten turns. Most used in later years are much shallower with a counter
in a window which increments once per full turn, and has a 0-100 dial in
the center.

I don't think it made to go on a piece of equipment, probably just a stand
alone hand turned counter.

Look at the back. There should be a 3/8" hole in the center.

Loosen the three black screws (only one shows in the photo, to
the right of the lock tab). The counter will lift off. Then you should
be able to lift the knob free of the back. You will find room in the
back of the knob to accommodate the 3/8" diameter mounting bushing of a
potentiometer, a flat washer, and a thin nut -- the kind normally used
for mounting pots and rotary switches on old electronic equipment.

Now -- in the back of the knob should be a 1/4" hole, and there
should be two setscrews at the back of the knob (probably hidden by the
skirt) which can be tightened by a long skinny Allen wrench to lock the
knob onto the 1/4" shaft of the potentiometer.

When the knob is mounted on the shaft, turn it fully CCW. Reach
into the back of the counter mechanism, and turn the gear there until
the counter reaches zero, slide it back onto the base with the screws
passing into the slots in the skirt, and tighten the screws. At this
point, your knob should read "000" with the pot fully CCW, and some
value when the pot (it should be a 10-turn one) fully CW. Ideally, it
should read "999", but based on your counting the turns vs digits, it
probably won't. (Unless you were determining a full turn by a visible
hole for a setscrew, and missed the fact that there are two at about 90
degrees separation in the knob.

I *have* used this kind of knob, though more recently I have
mostly used the more shallow versions which I described in my last
quoted paragraph above. IIRC, the photographed style, I last saw in
*new* use around 1960, used to build things like temperature controllers
for test ovens for semiconductors which had to meet tight specs.

If you have no future need for it once the contest is over, I
might be interested in acquiring it from you. I have not seen that
style for a long time.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Look at the back. There should be a 3/8" hole in the center.

Loosen the three black screws (only one shows in the photo, to
the right of the lock tab). The counter will lift off. Then you should
be able to lift the knob free of the back. You will find room in the
back of the knob to accommodate the 3/8" diameter mounting bushing of a
potentiometer, a flat washer, and a thin nut -- the kind normally used
for mounting pots and rotary switches on old electronic equipment.

Now -- in the back of the knob should be a 1/4" hole, and there
should be two setscrews at the back of the knob (probably hidden by the
skirt) which can be tightened by a long skinny Allen wrench to lock the
knob onto the 1/4" shaft of the potentiometer.


I was wondering what those holes were for, they can be seen in picture
number 4 he

http://counterpot.blogspot.com/

where I have a few photos of it disassembled. Thanks for the post, I
thought it was just a hand counter for use around the office but now I see
how it can be attached to a shaft.



When the knob is mounted on the shaft, turn it fully CCW. Reach
into the back of the counter mechanism, and turn the gear there until
the counter reaches zero, slide it back onto the base with the screws
passing into the slots in the skirt, and tighten the screws. At this
point, your knob should read "000" with the pot fully CCW, and some
value when the pot (it should be a 10-turn one) fully CW. Ideally, it
should read "999", but based on your counting the turns vs digits, it
probably won't. (Unless you were determining a full turn by a visible
hole for a setscrew, and missed the fact that there are two at about 90
degrees separation in the knob.

I *have* used this kind of knob, though more recently I have
mostly used the more shallow versions which I described in my last
quoted paragraph above. IIRC, the photographed style, I last saw in
*new* use around 1960, used to build things like temperature controllers
for test ovens for semiconductors which had to meet tight specs.

If you have no future need for it once the contest is over, I
might be interested in acquiring it from you. I have not seen that
style for a long time.


On the bottom of the silver dial is written "Borg Equipment Division,
Janesville Wis. USA, The George W. Borg Corporation".

If you would like to have it I'd be happy to send it to you, email me and
we'll work out the details.


Rob

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 12:51:46 +0000, R.H. wrote:


"Jon Haugsand" wrote in message
...
* Jonathan Wilson
My children thought it was a lego man helmet. (But I think it is too
big, and I cannot figure out the release/open like handle at the
bottom.)
As a fan of LEGO, I can say that no helmet exists that looks like that


But maybe another plastic toy brand?

However, it really looks like metal. The inner grey part looks like
something that can be rotated, i.e. some adjustment tool.

This one isn't a toy nor an adjustment tool, and you're right, it is made of
metal.

http://sakae-tsushin.co.jp/eng_page/item/tcd.html
http://www.meditronik.com.pl/doc/bourns/syp049060.pdf page 10
http://www.p3america.com/pp/md22xx.htm

and so on.

Cheres!
Rich