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Proper RPMs for Snow Blower Engine?
I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. The governor spring has probably taken a set over the years, probably because of my habit of shutting it down by leaving the engine running at full speed and closing the fuel petcock, which leaves the spring stretched a bit all the time. Speed pleez? Thanks guys and Happy New Year, Jeff * So named by me because it predates the safety features on today's snow blowers. The front halves of the auger ends are exposed and ready to grab any pant leg in range and there's no dead man system, other than waiting for the gas tank to run dry. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
Jeff Wisnia wrote: I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. The governor spring has probably taken a set over the years, probably because of my habit of shutting it down by leaving the engine running at full speed and closing the fuel petcock, which leaves the spring stretched a bit all the time. Speed pleez? Thanks guys and Happy New Year, Jeff * So named by me because it predates the safety features on today's snow blowers. The front halves of the auger ends are exposed and ready to grab any pant leg in range and there's no dead man system, other than waiting for the gas tank to run dry. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" You're right, you can thank the attorneys for the lower speed of a lot of thing; less speed = less injury. Pull the cooling shroud off the motor and find a plastic paddle that rides close to the flywheel. Cut the plastic paddle back so the cooling fan doesn't blow it back as far and keep the rpm down, and your rpm will come up to where it should be. Ronnie Ronnie |
Ronnie wrote:
Jeff Wisnia wrote: I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. The governor spring has probably taken a set over the years, probably because of my habit of shutting it down by leaving the engine running at full speed and closing the fuel petcock, which leaves the spring stretched a bit all the time. Speed pleez? Thanks guys and Happy New Year, Jeff * So named by me because it predates the safety features on today's snow blowers. The front halves of the auger ends are exposed and ready to grab any pant leg in range and there's no dead man system, other than waiting for the gas tank to run dry. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" You're right, you can thank the attorneys for the lower speed of a lot of thing; less speed = less injury. Pull the cooling shroud off the motor and find a plastic paddle that rides close to the flywheel. Cut the plastic paddle back so the cooling fan doesn't blow it back as far and keep the rpm down, and your rpm will come up to where it should be. Ronnie Ronnie Thanks, but I won't let lawyers within 100 feet of my tools, and I doubt that surgery to the air vane is required, just resetting how hard the spring pulls against it should do it, or maybe even buying a new spring, but I'd rather not over rev the engine by going too far. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
I don't think the engine uses the plastic flap. Most Tehcumseh engines are
governed inside the crank case. you need to adjust the arm that connects to the shaft that goes into the engine. "Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... Ronnie wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. The governor spring has probably taken a set over the years, probably because of my habit of shutting it down by leaving the engine running at full speed and closing the fuel petcock, which leaves the spring stretched a bit all the time. Speed pleez? Thanks guys and Happy New Year, Jeff * So named by me because it predates the safety features on today's snow blowers. The front halves of the auger ends are exposed and ready to grab any pant leg in range and there's no dead man system, other than waiting for the gas tank to run dry. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" You're right, you can thank the attorneys for the lower speed of a lot of thing; less speed = less injury. Pull the cooling shroud off the motor and find a plastic paddle that rides close to the flywheel. Cut the plastic paddle back so the cooling fan doesn't blow it back as far and keep the rpm down, and your rpm will come up to where it should be. Ronnie Ronnie Thanks, but I won't let lawyers within 100 feet of my tools, and I doubt that surgery to the air vane is required, just resetting how hard the spring pulls against it should do it, or maybe even buying a new spring, but I'd rather not over rev the engine by going too far. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
"as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as
far as I remember it could a while back" I just went thru that with my gilson 5hp. When it threw snow it acted as if it were vomiting on itself. I shortened the governor spring until the rpms sounded more healthy but not screaming. Works ok now. |
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 12:43:51 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote: I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. The governor spring has probably taken a set over the years, probably because of my habit of shutting it down by leaving the engine running at full speed and closing the fuel petcock, which leaves the spring stretched a bit all the time. Speed pleez? Most of these engines are rated at 3600 rpm but I don't recommend running them that fast all the time. I'd say that 3000 rpm should be enough but if it was me I'd just adjust it high enough to make it work the way you want it. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook |
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I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh
"Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. The governor spring has probably taken a set over the years, probably because of my habit of shutting it down by leaving the engine running at full speed and closing the fuel petcock, which leaves the spring stretched a bit all the time. Speed pleez? Thanks guys and Happy New Year, Jeff * So named by me because it predates the safety features on today's snow blowers. The front halves of the auger ends are exposed and ready to grab any pant leg in range and there's no dead man system, other than waiting for the gas tank to run dry. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" Top rated speed for these engines is 3600 RPM. On snowblowers they're usually run in the 3400-3600 range, although on one as old as yours I'd keep it at the lower end. Do not adjust the speed by messing with the governor spring, that's the leading cause for problems with troubleshooting later on. There's a "U" shaped wire between the cable-controlled quadrant and a lever that tugs on the governor. You spread or pinch the U depending on which way you want to go. Before you do this you also want to "zero" the main governor lever on the engine shaft. The procedure's outlined in all the manuals. Those are great old machines. 1964 was the last year for the cat snatcher bucket. Until earlier this year I had a '63 6/24 with the optional removable side panels. The main safety difference that modern blowers have are deadmans for the auger and traction drive. Keep your wits about you and you're fine. GTO(John) |
You're right, you can thank the attorneys for the lower speed of a lot
of thing; less speed = less injury. Pull the cooling shroud off the motor and find a plastic paddle that rides close to the flywheel. Cut the plastic paddle back so the cooling fan doesn't blow it back as far and keep the rpm down, and your rpm will come up to where it should be. Ronnie Ronnie Modern snowblower engines run just as fast or faster than older ones, so do the impellers. Lawn mowers are the ones limited by federal specs. 3200 RPM for residential machines last time I checked. Tecumseh snow engines don't use vane governors, they use an internal flyweight type. If you do have a vane engine, there are legit ways for adjusting the speed without hacking at stuff. GTO(John) |
Modern snowblower engines run just as fast or faster than older ones, so
do the impellers. Lawn mowers are the ones limited by federal specs. 3200 RPM for residential machines last time I checked. So the question for me is how do I speed up my lawnmower fast enough to work like a snowblower? Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. http://www.autodrill.com http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com V8013 |
GTO69RA4 wrote:
I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. The governor spring has probably taken a set over the years, probably because of my habit of shutting it down by leaving the engine running at full speed and closing the fuel petcock, which leaves the spring stretched a bit all the time. Speed pleez? Thanks guys and Happy New Year, Jeff * So named by me because it predates the safety features on today's snow blowers. The front halves of the auger ends are exposed and ready to grab any pant leg in range and there's no dead man system, other than waiting for the gas tank to run dry. -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" Top rated speed for these engines is 3600 RPM. On snowblowers they're usually run in the 3400-3600 range, although on one as old as yours I'd keep it at the lower end. Do not adjust the speed by messing with the governor spring, that's the leading cause for problems with troubleshooting later on. There's a "U" shaped wire between the cable-controlled quadrant and a lever that tugs on the governor. You spread or pinch the U depending on which way you want to go. Before you do this you also want to "zero" the main governor lever on the engine shaft. The procedure's outlined in all the manuals. Those are great old machines. 1964 was the last year for the cat snatcher bucket. Until earlier this year I had a '63 6/24 with the optional removable side panels. The main safety difference that modern blowers have are deadmans for the auger and traction drive. Keep your wits about you and you're fine. GTO(John) Thanks John, I hadn't looked at the governor setup yet, but I'm reasonably sure I can handle an adjustment if it needs it. I may have jumped the gun thinking it might have a sagged spring, and I didn't intend to shorten a coil spring or anything like that, just change the span between the effective end of the the Bowdoin cable and what it's pulling on, which is what it sounds like what closing or opening that "U" will do. I just couldn't remember if the RPMs on that size engine had to be kept below 3,000 or what. I'll stick the tach near the plug wire tonite and see what the revs really are. The Ariens got used yesterday morning when for the first significant snow of the season, about 8" of dry stuff, here in Winchester, Taxachusetts. My old Ariens does have mounting holes for those half round side panels and they are pictured in it's owner's booklet, but they weren't with the machine when I bought it about 30 years ago, cheap because the previous owner had stripped the spark plug threads. At that time a new head and gasket cost less than helicoiling it, so that's the way I fixed it. I prefer it without those side panels 'cause I can nibble chisel away packed snow by angling the front of the machine into it. Just don't ask me anything bout those curved scratches on the fender of SWMBOs car. Mine also has those funky bidirectional overunning clutch gadgets in the drive wheel hubs which give it a pseudo differential action. They let the outside wheel overrun the drive axle in both forward and reverse. I hadda fix them up about ten years ago after the tangs on their friction bands broke off, I couldn't lower myself to just freeze 'em solid with a bolt through a drilled hole like some folks told me to do. They've worked fine since then. Happy New Year, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
Joe AutoDrill wrote: Modern snowblower engines run just as fast or faster than older ones, so do the impellers. Lawn mowers are the ones limited by federal specs. 3200 RPM for residential machines last time I checked. So the question for me is how do I speed up my lawnmower fast enough to work like a snowblower? This i'd LOVE to see! I don't think it would work real well. A snowblower has to move fairly slowly to keep from melting and packing the snow. A lawnmower runs way to fast, in terms of surface speeds, to do it right. I suppose a lawnmower could actually clear an inch or two of light snow, but it would make a HUGE mess of a thick, wet snow, I'm afraid. Now, if you mounted it at right angles to the ground, and advanced it into the face of the snow pack, that might work a lot like an alpine snow blower. It would sure be a hazardous machine, too, until the engine fried from lack of lube. (Don't anybody actually DO this and then sue me, please!) Jon |
So the question for me is how do I speed up my lawnmower fast enough to work
like a snowblower? Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. http://www.autodrill.com http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com V8013 You'd have to get that mower pretty fast to clear a good couple feet. GTO(John) |
Thanks John,
I hadn't looked at the governor setup yet, but I'm reasonably sure I can handle an adjustment if it needs it. I may have jumped the gun thinking it might have a sagged spring, and I didn't intend to shorten a coil spring or anything like that, just change the span between the effective end of the the Bowdoin cable and what it's pulling on, which is what it sounds like what closing or opening that "U" will do. I just couldn't remember if the RPMs on that size engine had to be kept below 3,000 or what. I'll stick the tach near the plug wire tonite and see what the revs really are. The Ariens got used yesterday morning when for the first significant snow of the season, about 8" of dry stuff, here in Winchester, Taxachusetts. My old Ariens does have mounting holes for those half round side panels and they are pictured in it's owner's booklet, but they weren't with the machine when I bought it about 30 years ago, cheap because the previous owner had stripped the spark plug threads. At that time a new head and gasket cost less than helicoiling it, so that's the way I fixed it. I prefer it without those side panels 'cause I can nibble chisel away packed snow by angling the front of the machine into it. Just don't ask me anything bout those curved scratches on the fender of SWMBOs car. Mine also has those funky bidirectional overunning clutch gadgets in the drive wheel hubs which give it a pseudo differential action. They let the outside wheel overrun the drive axle in both forward and reverse. I hadda fix them up about ten years ago after the tangs on their friction bands broke off, I couldn't lower myself to just freeze 'em solid with a bolt through a drilled hole like some folks told me to do. They've worked fine since then. Happy New Year, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" How much snow'd you guys get? Here on the MA north shore we must have had 12". Not quite the 4" they said on TV. The tractors for these snowblowers came with three different drive setups. Solid axle, weirdo clutches, and an unlockable differential. I had the diff model. Easy to turn, lousy on slippery surfaces. It was still a couple years before they made them locking. GTO(John) |
GTO69RA4 wrote:
Thanks John, I hadn't looked at the governor setup yet, but I'm reasonably sure I can handle an adjustment if it needs it. I may have jumped the gun thinking it might have a sagged spring, and I didn't intend to shorten a coil spring or anything like that, just change the span between the effective end of the the Bowdoin cable and what it's pulling on, which is what it sounds like what closing or opening that "U" will do. I just couldn't remember if the RPMs on that size engine had to be kept below 3,000 or what. I'll stick the tach near the plug wire tonite and see what the revs really are. The Ariens got used yesterday morning when for the first significant snow of the season, about 8" of dry stuff, here in Winchester, Taxachusetts. My old Ariens does have mounting holes for those half round side panels and they are pictured in it's owner's booklet, but they weren't with the machine when I bought it about 30 years ago, cheap because the previous owner had stripped the spark plug threads. At that time a new head and gasket cost less than helicoiling it, so that's the way I fixed it. I prefer it without those side panels 'cause I can nibble chisel away packed snow by angling the front of the machine into it. Just don't ask me anything bout those curved scratches on the fender of SWMBOs car. Mine also has those funky bidirectional overunning clutch gadgets in the drive wheel hubs which give it a pseudo differential action. They let the outside wheel overrun the drive axle in both forward and reverse. I hadda fix them up about ten years ago after the tangs on their friction bands broke off, I couldn't lower myself to just freeze 'em solid with a bolt through a drilled hole like some folks told me to do. They've worked fine since then. Happy New Year, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" How much snow'd you guys get? Here on the MA north shore we must have had 12". Not quite the 4" they said on TV. I think we got spared in Winchester, even with my usual exageration I don't think I could say we got more than 8" and it was about the "dryest" I'd ever seen here, I was suprised at the amount of drifting and clearing down to the bare pavement we got from whatever wind was blowing. Doubtless someone from the midwest will chime in asking why we we even need snowblowers for such a ****ant little bit of snow. (But, were you around here for the "Blizzard of 78"?) The tractors for these snowblowers came with three different drive setups. Solid axle, weirdo clutches, and an unlockable differential. I had the diff model. Easy to turn, lousy on slippery surfaces. Must have been useful only when ferrying them around on dry pavement. G I've got chains on mine 'cause We've got a 90 foot long driveway with a slope of about 1 in 10. It was still a couple years before they made them locking. GTO(John) I'm planning on keeping the Ariens I've got running.....until we finally make it to Florida and I swear I'm gonna ship it down there along with SWMBOs dishes and my tools, spray it with gold paint, and fasten it onto a concrete pad as a front lawn ornament. Happy Holidays, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
Snow, ......Snow blower,.......... hmmmmmm, I must be missing
something living in the deep south........na, I don't think so!............;-) |
Must have been useful only when ferrying them around on dry
pavement. G I've got chains on mine 'cause We've got a 90 foot long driveway with a slope of about 1 in 10. The differential model was geared more towards year-round use with the trail mower and power sweep attachments. Mine came with turf tires and chains, but I switched to Sno-Hog knobbies. Looking back probably not the smartest idea. GTO(John) |
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Measured engine speed tonite. Right around 3500 RPM according to my
little wireless tachometer. My curiousity is satisfied and I was probably barking up the wrong tree thinking the engine speed had sagged. A son gave me that wireless tach a few years ago. I probably wouldn't have sprung for it myself, given the price and the few times I've had need for it, but it sure is easy to use. It picks up the pulsing magnetic field from the spark plug lead and measures the repitition rate. Mine looks like this one: http://www.smallenginebusiness.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?store_code=SEB&screen=PROD&product_co de=7-05952 Guess maybe yesterday's snow was so dry and powdery it was like trying to snowblow talcum powder. Not enough mass to volume ratio in the snowflakes to let them fly very far before air resistance slowed them down. Happy New Year, Jeff GTO69RA4 wrote: Must have been useful only when ferrying them around on dry pavement. G I've got chains on mine 'cause We've got a 90 foot long driveway with a slope of about 1 in 10. The differential model was geared more towards year-round use with the trail mower and power sweep attachments. Mine came with turf tires and chains, but I switched to Sno-Hog knobbies. Looking back probably not the smartest idea. GTO(John) |
Don't forget to bring your windshield scraper. They have got a light dew
down here, they call frost, and its cool to bring out a 3 ft scraper with a brush on the end to wipe it away. gary "Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... SNIP I'm planning on keeping the Ariens I've got running.....until we finally make it to Florida and I swear I'm gonna ship it down there along with SWMBOs dishes and my tools, spray it with gold paint, and fasten it onto a concrete pad as a front lawn ornament. Happy Holidays, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
yep! As a Canadian expatriate living in Melbourne, Australia for the last thirty years, I remember snow blowers, but not with any enjoyment. At the worst here, the snow hits the ground about every 2 or 3 years but melts within about 10 minutes. I don't even own a pair of snow gloves. I check the weather in Saskatchewan a few times every year just to remind myself how good I've got it. Tom "Tom Quackenbush" wrote in message ... Carpy wrote: Snow, ......Snow blower,.......... hmmmmmm, I must be missing something living in the deep south........na, I don't think so!............;-) Got bugs? R, Tom Q. Remove bogusinfo to reply. |
"as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back" I just went thru that with my gilson 5hp. When it threw snow it acted as if it were vomiting on itself. I shortened the governor spring until the rpms sounded more healthy but not screaming. Works ok now. Something that helps my 8hp Gilson a lot is to sand a paint the chute so the snow slides through easily. Rob A good coat of wax will also help speed things along. Just like eating a bunch of Fritos. Ted -- Ted Bennett Portland, OR |
Tom Miller wrote:
yep! As a Canadian expatriate living in Melbourne, Australia for the last thirty years, I remember snow blowers, but not with any enjoyment. At the worst here, the snow hits the ground about every 2 or 3 years but melts within about 10 minutes. I don't even own a pair of snow gloves. I check the weather in Saskatchewan a few times every year just to remind myself how good I've got it. Tom "Tom Quackenbush" wrote in message ... Carpy wrote: Snow, ......Snow blower,.......... hmmmmmm, I must be missing something living in the deep south........na, I don't think so!............;-) Got bugs? R, Tom Q. Remove bogusinfo to reply. HaHa chortle snort!! I was given a Lee Valley State-of-the-art windshield scraper by a well meaning friend.His face fell off his head when I said "I am going to open a bar in Central America andI will hang this 'thing' over the bar. Anyone who can correctly identify it will drink free for the night!! I am in Central America as I speak and I am looking for the location for said bar. On another note I showed up in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada in March in my old van. The gas jockey was plumb confused by the mess of bugs smeared on the front of this vehicle. "Oh yah" said I, "just came back from Costa Rica". Ya had to be there! http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com |
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 12:43:51 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote: I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. First off, getting 40 years out of one of these engines is a small miracle. Chances are the engine is at the end of it's string and is due for retirement. Common problem: The valve guides are simply bores in the block and when worn will cause a lack of power even though the compression feels good. Pull the head and rotate the crank until a valve is at full extension and then see if you can wiggle the valve around. It will be real obvious if the guide is worn. To repair, the guide is reamed and then an oversize valve is fitted. Oh, yeah: check the muffler. A rotted or non-OEM muffler will cause all kinds of running problems. But, just in case, here's how to adjust the flyweight governor on a horizontal-crank Tecumseh: With the engine off: 1) Loosen the governor lever clamp screw. 2) Twist the protruding end of the governor shaft clockwise as far as it will go. 3) While holding the governor shaft clockwise, move the governor lever until the throttle shaft is in the wide open position. 4) Tighten the governor lever clamp screw. You may also need to dial in the carb, which is likely a Carter N: 1) Set the idle needle at 1 1/2 turns open and the main needle 1 3/4 open. 2 )With the engine running at normal temp, adjust main needle for smoothest operation under load. 3) Adjust the idle needle for smooth idle and good acceleration. The Carter N is kind of tricky to dial in and may take a few tries and the engine might skip a little at idle- that's OK as long as it's steady under load. -Carl |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 05:46:38 GMT, Carl Byrns
wrote: On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 12:43:51 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: I've got a feeling the governed full speed RPM of the 6 HP Tecumseh "Snow King" engine on my 1964 Ariens Sno-Thro has been decreasing over the years, as the "Widow Maker"* doesn't seem to be launching snow as far as I remember it could a while back, and nothing seems obstructed or noticably worn. ('Course I can't toss snow as far as I could back in '64, but there's not much I can do about that. G) I've got a spark induction tach, but when I looked in the original manuals this morning, there's no mention of what the full speed RPMs should be set to. First off, getting 40 years out of one of these engines is a small miracle. Chances are the engine is at the end of it's string and is due for retirement. Common problem: The valve guides are simply bores in the block and when worn will cause a lack of power even though the compression feels good. Pull the head and rotate the crank until a valve is at full extension and then see if you can wiggle the valve around. It will be real obvious if the guide is worn. To repair, the guide is reamed and then an oversize valve is fitted. Oh, yeah: check the muffler. A rotted or non-OEM muffler will cause all kinds of running problems. But, just in case, here's how to adjust the flyweight governor on a horizontal-crank Tecumseh: With the engine off: 1) Loosen the governor lever clamp screw. 2) Twist the protruding end of the governor shaft clockwise as far as it will go. 3) While holding the governor shaft clockwise, move the governor lever until the throttle shaft is in the wide open position. 4) Tighten the governor lever clamp screw. You may also need to dial in the carb, which is likely a Carter N: 1) Set the idle needle at 1 1/2 turns open and the main needle 1 3/4 open. 2 )With the engine running at normal temp, adjust main needle for smoothest operation under load. 3) Adjust the idle needle for smooth idle and good acceleration. The Carter N is kind of tricky to dial in and may take a few tries and the engine might skip a little at idle- that's OK as long as it's steady under load. -Carl Lots of those old beasts still tossing snow up here in Ontario. I retired one last year (had sold it to a neighbour some years back) when a valve jammed and the camshaft broke. It was a 1973 Ariens with a 5HP SnoKing. I'm still using my1970-ish Canadiana 5-26. Had a governor problem 10 years ago that took a rod bearing out of the first engine. Got my hands on a low hour used engine and installed it one awful miserable cold and windy January afternoon, and managed to damage the pulley in the process. I brazed it together and it lasted until I threw the belt last Thursday. Lost the part this time, so I pulled it off, brazed up a gob where the part was missing, and turned it back to shape on the Myford. I worked for an Ariens dealer in the late sixties and their stuff was VERY well built back then. |
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 18:23:09 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote: Doubtless someone from the midwest will chime in asking why we we even need snowblowers for such a ****ant little bit of snow. Jeff, why do you even bother with such a ****ant little bit of snow? (But, were you around here for the "Blizzard of 78"?) Pffbbttt. I was here for the Hallowe'en blizzard of 1990: 28 inches in Mnpls, 34 inches in Duluth. Trick or treat! I just got an alumni magazine in which a guy recounted walking to class from Trailertown thru crotch-deep snow in Houghton, MI. We got well over 200 inches of snow one year I was there. The record is 355.9 inches in '78-79. That'd be 29 feet or so. Snow does sublimate some but it doesn't melt midwinter in that neck of the woods. They got 118 inches (9.8 feet) just in December that winter. There were houses up around Calumet with second-story porches with no stairs to the ground. I figured they were back doors during the winter. Yoopers don't worry boud a liddlebit snow, eh? Yoopers are folks that live in Michigan's UP -- upper peninsula. . Houghton is about midway up the Keewenaw Peninsula which projects north into Lake Superior from the Upper Peninsula. Perhaps Keewenaw is the upper peninsula of the upper pensula.... eh? It was fun listening to a highschool basketball game on the radio because of the preponderance of Finnish names. "Kivisaari to Ruotoniemi, over to Maki, now to Ahola, pass to Kuivanen, HE SCORES!: I enjoyed that because I'm half Finn, heard endless arguments about politics between my mother and grandfather that I didn't understand much of because they were conducted in Finnish. About all the Finn I recall anymore is "sit down", "bad boy", "good girl" (that for my suckup sister) and "be quiet" when I loudly objected that Ma had been snookered by suckup sister. Ooh yah, and "Merry Christmas". The autumn color is so spectacular on the Keewenaw that Michigan Tech declares a holiday on "K-day" so all can go enjoy it. |
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 18:23:09 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote: Doubtless someone from the midwest will chime in asking why we we even need snowblowers for such a ****ant little bit of snow. Jeff, why do you even bother with such a ****ant little bit of snow? (But, were you around here for the "Blizzard of 78"?) Pffbbttt. I was here for the Hallowe'en blizzard of 1990: 28 inches in Mnpls, 34 inches in Duluth. Trick or treat! snip and you walked 10 miles to school one-way and 12 miles back - BOTH uphill .. .. .. :-) Ken. |
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 11:40:58 GMT, Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote:
and you walked 10 miles to school one-way and 12 miles back - BOTH uphill .. .. .. :-) Barefoot |
Yoopers are folks that live in Michigan's UP -- upper peninsula. .
Houghton is about midway up the Keewenaw Peninsula which projects north into Lake Superior from the Upper Peninsula. Perhaps Keewenaw is the upper peninsula of the upper pensula.... eh? It was fun listening to a highschool basketball game on the radio because of the preponderance of Finnish names. "Kivisaari to Ruotoniemi, over to Maki, now to Ahola, pass to Kuivanen, HE SCORES!: I enjoyed that because I'm half Finn, heard endless arguments about politics between my mother and grandfather that I didn't understand much of because they were conducted in Finnish. About all the Finn I recall anymore is "sit down", "bad boy", "good girl" (that for my suckup sister) and "be quiet" when I loudly objected that Ma had been snookered by suckup sister. Ooh yah, and "Merry Christmas". The autumn color is so spectacular on the Keewenaw that Michigan Tech declares a holiday on "K-day" so all can go enjoy it. Paivaa, Don I was surprised to read you are a Finlander too. With a good Finnish name like Foreman I should have known. When I was growing up in northern Minnesota, Finn was spoken daily but now is seldom heard. I still remember about 50-60 words but I never could string a sentence together. I started making some ethnic signs and have welcome in 8 different languages now. Tervetuloa is the Finn version. I have some posted on this Yahoo photo page http://tinyurl.com/54cuu "Haista Napa" has been a popular one too. If you want to insult a Finn tell him to go smell something. Nakamiin, Steve Peterson |
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 17:36:10 -0600, "Sven" wrote:
The autumn color is so spectacular on the Keewenaw that Michigan Tech declares a holiday on "K-day" so all can go enjoy it. Paivaa, Don I was surprised to read you are a Finlander too. With a good Finnish name like Foreman I should have known. When I was growing up in northern Minnesota, Finn was spoken daily but now is seldom heard. I still remember about 50-60 words but I never could string a sentence together. I started making some ethnic signs and have welcome in 8 different languages now. Tervetuloa is the Finn version. I have some posted on this Yahoo photo page http://tinyurl.com/54cuu "Haista Napa" has been a popular one too. If you want to insult a Finn tell him to go smell something. Nakamiin, Steve Peterson Paivaa, Steve. Gunner (Ojala) "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stewart Mill |
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 17:36:10 -0600, "Sven" wrote:
Paivaa, Don I was surprised to read you are a Finlander too. With a good Finnish name like Foreman I should have known. Hyva Paivaa Sven! My middle name is Sirola. My grandfather's name was originally Suuronen but he got tired of hearing it mispronounced so he changed it to Sirola. Neat signs! Our neighbors at the lake, of Norwegians heritage, have a sign on their road that says "Halvorson Hytte" which we're told means "Halvorson little house (or cottage)". I've wanted to make a sign to put on our outhouse that says "Shytte Hytte" but my wife doesn't think it would be a good idea.... |
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 17:36:10 -0600, "Sven" wrote:
When I was growing up in northern Minnesota, Finn was spoken daily but now is seldom heard. You've undoubtedly heard the story that December 6 is Pearl Maki day in MN? That's the day Pearl Maki got bombed in Two Harbors.... |
"Don Foreman" wrote in message ... On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 17:36:10 -0600, "Sven" wrote: When I was growing up in northern Minnesota, Finn was spoken daily but now is seldom heard. You've undoubtedly heard the story that December 6 is Pearl Maki day in MN? That's the day Pearl Maki got bombed in Two Harbors.... I wonder if Pearle is any relation to Supermaki from Wolf Lake. Now that is the place to get bombed. (I say as I sit up sipping a rum and coke alone at the puter New Years Eve) The breadwinner is in bed already as she has to work tomorrow. It is really interesting how people open up and talk about the old days and their roots when they see my ethnic signs at shows. The funniest was when a younger guy and his girlfriend were looking at the Polish "Witamy" sign and the guy said "Who would want a Pollack sign?" The shocked girl said "Me cause I'm Polish". The guy looked like he could have crawled in the nearest hole. Happy New Years to you guys! Steve |
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 13:28:39 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote: On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 11:40:58 GMT, Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote: and you walked 10 miles to school one-way and 12 miles back - BOTH uphill .. .. .. :-) Barefoot An' it was so slippery we had to turn around and walk the other way 'cause for every step we took, we slid back two. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
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I live on one of the busiest street in our city, during the fun snow filled
months of Wisconsin the city plow come by often enough to keep the end of my driveway filled with snow, that rapidly turns to slush. Anyone that's had to deal with this wet heavy snow knows that even the best 2 stage snowblower will moan an groan and struggle to throw this stuff anywhere. I've purchased three new snowblowers over the years hoping more powerful engines would help, but no luck. I consider myself lucky if half of the time the snow just pours out of the chute enough to keep the engine running. As you can imagine after spending a considerable amount effort and swearing at the snowplow driver every time he makes another pass, I've concocted a number of extreme ideas that range from targeting the snowplow/driver with various contraptions (or weaponry) to designing an elaborate hydraulically operated metal shield that protects the end of the driveway when the snowplow comes by and then catapults any remaining snow across the street into my neighbors driveway (or back at the snowplow..must most likely that cop that watches me to be certian not a flake of snow is lands back in the street) However rational thought usually takes over and I figured this group might have some good ideas about how to modify my snowblower to better handle slush. I've tried painting, polishing, waxing and even spraying non stick coating on the inside of the chute with no great success. Perhaps I should build a chute out of stainless steel? PVC or other plastic? Should I try to make a different size pully for the auger/thrower assembly (bigger/smaller/lighter?) Nitrous Oxide for the engine? Add more blades the the wheel that "throws" the snow? Sure in 20 years, I'll retire to Arizona, but for now I need to figure something out before a snowplower driver ends up a statistic.... :-) |
On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 03:21:21 GMT, "TheMan" wrote:
I live on one of the busiest street in our city, during the fun snow filled months of Wisconsin the city plow come by often enough to keep the end of my driveway filled with snow, that rapidly turns to slush. Anyone that's had to deal with this wet heavy snow knows that even the best 2 stage snowblower will moan an groan and struggle to throw this stuff anywhere. I've purchased three new snowblowers over the years hoping more powerful engines would help, but no luck. The best "slush pump" I ever owned was an old craftsman single stage blower from the late sixties. It was an 8 HP 26" unit if memory serves correctly, and it weighed a ton. It had a single speed drive and beaters that turned so fast you could not see them.Threw the wet sloppy stuff very well.Not vey good when the crap froze, though. I consider myself lucky if half of the time the snow just pours out of the chute enough to keep the engine running. As you can imagine after spending a considerable amount effort and swearing at the snowplow driver every time he makes another pass, I've concocted a number of extreme ideas that range from targeting the snowplow/driver with various contraptions (or weaponry) to designing an elaborate hydraulically operated metal shield that protects the end of the driveway when the snowplow comes by and then catapults any remaining snow across the street into my neighbors driveway (or back at the snowplow..must most likely that cop that watches me to be certian not a flake of snow is lands back in the street) However rational thought usually takes over and I figured this group might have some good ideas about how to modify my snowblower to better handle slush. I've tried painting, polishing, waxing and even spraying non stick coating on the inside of the chute with no great success. Perhaps I should build a chute out of stainless steel? PVC or other plastic? Should I try to make a different size pully for the auger/thrower assembly (bigger/smaller/lighter?) Nitrous Oxide for the engine? Add more blades the the wheel that "throws" the snow? Sure in 20 years, I'll retire to Arizona, but for now I need to figure something out before a snowplower driver ends up a statistic.... :-) |
Anyone that's had
to deal with this wet heavy snow knows that even the best 2 stage snowblower will moan an groan and struggle to throw this stuff anywhere. I've purchased three new snowblowers over the years hoping more powerful engines I assume that your machines are self-propelled, with speed set up for "normal" snow up to the height of the auger. That means that when you charge compacted snow, you are feeding it a lot more material than it is designed to handle. One solution would be to change the sprockets/pulleys to give slower speed over the ground, thus feeding it more dainty bites of snow. If you are really ambitious, you might look at "cone" pulleys, so a quick swap of the drive belt from one drive ratio to the other gives you a regular speed and a creeper speed. If your "clutch" is a belt tightener, this might be pretty easy. |
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