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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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HF mini-bill notes.
Having temporarily run out more productive things to do, and having a
half rainy, partly sunny, muggy day, I decided to tram the head on the HF mini mill and find out how bad it was. Well, really bad. Side to side, no problem, front to back, .016" across 3 1/2 ". That's bad. First thought was the column, and a little checking proved that it was not square. The problem wasn't the column, it was the bracket that holds it to the base, but it didn't seem all that bad. It wasn't, squaring it up brought the front to back all the way down to .014". The spindle was not parallel to the column. A quick look at the book, and the block on top that looks like it's carrying the upper bearing, isn't carrying anything but the motor. The head is two castings, so one of them had to be out of square. Well, almost. Checking the casting with the gibs on it, only .001" out of parallel, gibs to front face. The problem was chips between the castings, and the tapped holes looked like maybe Noah had started using the tap, and it hasn't been sharpened since. The finish on this face looks like it was done with a fly cutter and about .030" per rev feed, it's rough, but when the burrs around the bolt holes were removed, the chips removed and a stone run over the surface, it's flat and parallel, although not pretty. Putting it back together, and getting the spindle parallel to the column again, it is now zero from front to back and only .0005" side to side, and I'm not going to try to bump that out. A screw adjustment would be nice, but as it doesn't have one, bumping with my hand, having it as close as it is, is close enough for almost everything I'll be doing. |
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On Tue, 07 Sep 2004 00:20:46 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote: Well done! Thanks. But a few follow up notes, THis hammered home the one thing I don't have, and that's a good, small, cylindrical master square. Something 2 1/2" to 3" diameter, maybe five or six inches tall. I had one in the gage lab, and while I seldom needed it, having a good supply of precision angle plates, when It was needed, it was worth it's weight in gold. I'm thinking right now, a piece of 1045, turned, centered, hardened and ground, solid not hollow, I want the weight. Secondly, it's a small machine, and even though it has the power to pull a 3/8" endmill, full cut and 1/4" depth of cut, it doesn't have the rigidity for that. 1/4" endmill, no problem. Finishing with a 1/8" endmill, as fast as it will go, .010" left for clean up and climb cutting worked beautifully. (2024 aluminum, pocket milling 1/4" deep with no object other than to remove metal.) Across the bottom of the pocket, you can see the individual passes, but I can't feel anything other than a nice smooth cut. The gibs on the column have to be a little tighter than I'm used to, but if they're not, when you tighten the lock, the head will move slightly. Not really a problem, just more than I'm used to. I reground the gib strip, mainly because I didn't like the way it looked, and didn't like what my micrometer showed me. Maybe didn't have to, but I did it anyhow. (Tapered and wavy, about .002") The "fine downfeed", with the handwheel driving a worm, which drives the pinion, and neither the pinion or rack being what I'd call precision, using a dial indicator to show the actual feed seems to make more sense than trusting the dial. There is also a rather sloppy universal joint in this shaft, which makes using the indicator make even more sense. (Next victim, the HF $40 drill press.) |
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