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No spark (distributor question)
On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 12:00:51 PM UTC-4, Clare wrote:
On Wed, 29 Apr 2020 09:21:18 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote: On Tue, 28 Apr 2020 05:20:06 -0700 (PDT) wrote: Huge snip Hi Clare, others. I tried the smell test the other day. It's got more of an oily smell than the gas I smell when I leave the choke on. TBH the black plugs are not that much of a problem. I clean 'em in the spring and maybe another time during the summer. I did check the float level and that looked spot on. I do love this old tractor. I had the head rebuilt a few years ago. With any luck she'll out live me. :^) Found a nice service manual here (~55mb): http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/...e%20Manual.pdf === Per that manual you should have a "Delco-Remy Model No. 1111722 with crankshaft rotation advance of 26 and 24 degrees respectively, both models are fully automatic.. The centrifugal advance mechanism is in- corporated in the distributor to automatically vary the timing of the spark with respect to the position of the piston in the cylinder. At high speeds, the spark must occur at the plug earlier in the compression stroke In order for the fuel mixture to deliver full power. The advance mechanism consists of an ad- vance cam, breaker cam, a pair of ' advance weights, springs and a weight base that is In- tegral with the distributor shaft. At low speeds, the advance weights are held in to- ward the center by the spring tension. As the speed of the distributor shaft increases, the centrifugal force overcomes the spring tension and the weights move outward and the toggles on the weights engage the advance cam. This rotates the advance cam and break- er cam which in turn allows the breaker cam to open and close the contact points earlier, thus advancing the spark... === Maybe help you out some ;-) I really suspect it is oil. Interesting to know what oil is being run and when it was last changed. Like I noted before I'd be putting some MMO in the oil and running it for a few hours, then drain the oil and refill with 15w40 all fleet (like rotella T) or 20W50 Castrol GTX or similar and see what happens. Quite possible the valve guide seals are poor but he DID say he had the head rebuilt recently so more likely the rings. The rings tend to sludge up and stick - and the MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) or Shaler Rislone can loosen the rings. I used to use Rislone years back but MMO is a lot less harsh and just as effective. I changed the oil and filter last year... I filled it with cheap 10W-30. OK when I change the oil again... a few years, I'll try some of your magic oil. (Well maybe... maybe it's better to leave sleeping dogs lie?) Thanks for all the nice 'tractor talk'. My neighbor down the road had a Ferggie too, but he passed away few years ago and everyone else around here has newer fancier tractors. George H. |
No spark (distributor question)
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No spark (distributor question)
"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Apr 2020 05:20:06 -0700 (PDT) wrote: Huge snip Hi Clare, others. I tried the smell test the other day. It's got more of an oily smell than the gas I smell when I leave the choke on. TBH the black plugs are not that much of a problem. I clean 'em in the spring and maybe another time during the summer. I did check the float level and that looked spot on. I do love this old tractor. I had the head rebuilt a few years ago. With any luck she'll out live me. :^) Found a nice service manual here (~55mb): http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/...e%20Manual.pdf === Per that manual you should have a "Delco-Remy Model No. 1111722 with crankshaft rotation advance of 26 and 24 degrees respectively, both models are fully automatic.. The centrifugal advance mechanism is in- corporated in the distributor to automatically vary the timing of the spark with respect to the position of the piston in the cylinder. At high speeds, the spark must occur at the plug earlier in the compression stroke In order for the fuel mixture to deliver full power. The advance mechanism consists of an ad- vance cam, breaker cam, a pair of ' advance weights, springs and a weight base that is In- tegral with the distributor shaft. At low speeds, the advance weights are held in to- ward the center by the spring tension. As the speed of the distributor shaft increases, the centrifugal force overcomes the spring tension and the weights move outward and the toggles on the weights engage the advance cam. This rotates the advance cam and break- er cam which in turn allows the breaker cam to open and close the contact points earlier, thus advancing the spark... === Maybe help you out some ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI ======================== The quick check is to try to rotate the breaker point plate to see if it moves freely, and springs back. Maybe the springs broke, or it was reassembled incorrectly? Distributors are rather mysterious if you don't understand what an ignition system needs and how they interact with the rest of the components to provide it, which is why I described all of the basics. There is more, magnetos, ballast resistors and the distributor-less "wasted spark" system, and the different worlds of electronic and computerized ignitions. I examined this closely at the NSU Zweirad (two-wheel) Museum: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daimler_Reitwagen https://www.zweirad-museum.de/zweira...1885-1929.html The ignition is a closed-end tube protruding from the combustion chamber with a little flame playing on it to keep it red hot -- beneath the gas tank. Pray for no leaks! |
No spark (distributor question)
Bad things,
it has no (external) hydraulics, and the pto/ hydraulic pump share the pto power... so you have to engage the pto to raise the 3-pt hitch. The lift(3-pt hitch) only has raise and lower positions... but I added this gizmo that does some feedback and allows for intermediate heights. The brakes* are kinda wimpy... but maybe this is typical of tractors? =============== I was descending a steep hill when the brake band disintegrated into a trail of little pieces behind me. Didn't need it, engine braking was enough. I know I didn't crash and die because I get myself into situations I wouldn't dream of. My tractor hydraulics grew from the crankshaft stub shaft that held the mower deck drive pulley. I made pulleys to fit it and a hydraulic pump I had salvaged, and reworked an old 2-lever valve assembly by making a variable pressure relief to drop it down from fixed 3000 to 800~1000 PSI. Once I turned it up to 1600 PSI to muscle out of a snowbank and blew the front tires. The oil intake screen is in a 2" pipe tee, with the drain at the bottom. The lift cylinders are worn-out porta-power jacks with new seals. Hydraulics can be fairly cheap if you don't have to match existing components, or can rework the mounting and drive. https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/CHI...I-CCW-Rotation |
No spark (distributor question)
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No spark (distributor question)
On Wed, 29 Apr 2020 13:02:19 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote: On Wed, 29 Apr 2020 09:16:37 -0700 (PDT) wrote: snip Thanks! I've got that manual.. but it cost me ~$20. Oh bummer... though the electronic one can be searched (watch for spelling errors). I've found that a big help at times when looking for some things... So these cams and springs are down inside the distro somewhere. (maybe I'll give it a look see... now I've had it apart once. :^) If you really weren't seeing the timing advance any when you had a timing light on it while revved up... You should sort that out :) I think it hits max advance at about 2000 RPM - |
No spark (distributor question)
On Tue, 28 Apr 2020 23:16:42 +0100, David Billington
wrote: On 26/04/2020 19:23, wrote: On Wednesday, April 22, 2020 at 11:12:39 AM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: "David Billington" wrote in message ... When the points open the light goes out at least if you have the test lamp wired between the dizzy and the coil low tension side to show when the points are conducting. Your post about the Aussie guy is correct regarding the way the points operate, I've used static timing many times for initial set-up on cars. =================================== If the test lamp is in series between the coil and breaker points it will go out when the points open and interrupt the coil current, which is when the spark jumps. However I connected the lamp across (in parallel with) the points so the light turns on when they open, and I didn't need to disconnect the coil wire or disturb the points or distributor position by reconnecting it after properly setting them. The coil is a large inductor which converts the energy of current flowing through it into a magnetic field. When the strength of this field increases or decreases it acts like a generator that opposes the change in current, causing the current to appear to have inertia. Current increases fairly slowly when 12V is applied across the coil by closing the points, and it tries very hard to continue flowing when the points open to break it. in the old low-tension (low-voltage) ignition system the points were inside the combustion chamber. When the points opened the current would continue between them as a spark, like arc welding, which fired the cylinder. https://www.gasenginemagazine.com/ga...n-zmgz14jjzbea I've burned through too much of my daily internet ration looking for an image of the early Daimler igniter which IIRC really was pointed, thus the term. Separating the switching and spark gap functions made both more reliable. The high tension system you have uses a coil with two windings, a transformer. The low voltage or primary winding is matched to the battery voltage and current, and the high voltage or secondary winding of many more turns of finer wire is optimized to create a high voltage, low current spark across the spark plug. Otherwise it operates like the simpler low tension system whose concept may be easier to understand. When the points close the current and magnetic field build up during the "dwell" time, which is part of the distributor shaft cam profile. The grease in the ignition kit goes on this cam. When the points open the field tries to keep the current flowing through both windings, and succeeds through the spark plug gap, where the arc current rapidly depletes the magnetic field's stored energy. The condenser (mostly) absorbs the current that would have sparked across and eroded the points. Then the condenser returns its stored electric charge to the coil, and along with other inherently capacitive elements of the system causes the coil voltage and current to oscillate and create radio and TV interference. The cure is energy-absorbing resistance built into spark plugs with an R in their designation. If the gas vapor all ignited instantly it could be fired at piston Top Dead Center, but since it doesn't (and shouldn't) the spark occurs before TDC to give the flame time to spread. The timing mark is when/where the plug should fire at idle speed. As the engine speeds up the centrifugal advance mechanism rotates the breaker point mounting plate to make the spark occur about the same length of time before TDC, so a strobe timing light shows the marks appearing to move on the flywheel. If the distributor has a vacuum advance its purpose is to advance the spark further when the engine is at speed but lightly loaded, just cruising down the highway. This improves fuel economy. Modern engines achieve the same effect by advancing ignition timing until they sense the loud onset of preignition ( knock), then backing it off a bit. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/...a-knock-sensor When I entered the automotive electronics business in 1973 the above had until recently been all the electricity an automotive engineer had to know, since they bought radios from elsewhere. The new engineers Detroit quickly hired weren't familiar with the many non-theoretical aspects of electrical engineering such as component tolerance and corrosion of exposed contacts and the rushed designs of 1974 plainly showed it, though they learned fast. Some of what they introduced was taken from chemical lab instruments or military aircraft, but those were much too complex and expensive to use as-is. I had to learn fast myself in order to build the factory test stations for the new electronics they were introducing like ABS. http://www.safebraking.com/before-ab...brake-systems/ Fortunately I had studied material science, combustion chemistry, thermocouples, hot wire mass air flow sensors etc in college. Wow! OK more than I can digest. But thanks. I did finally understand how my distributor works. So thanks for that too. In the end I just put it back together. Set the rotor at ~ the right place. (I took a picture), checked for spark. A yup. And advanced the dist. til it started. The timing light worked and the 'old girl' started at 30 deg. I set it for the recommended 7-8 deg. And then cranked up the engine rpm. I didn't see any advancement of the timing. She seemed to run OK between 30 and 7 deg and I set it for 15. (?) So let me ask a related question. The plugs are always getting fouled (black fried gunk) on this tractor and I clean 'em with kerosene. Could I maybe fix that some with better timing? Though it does other things this tractor spends most of it's life dragging a mower deck around the 'estate' (The mower deck is called an estate groomer in the manual. :^) Sorta medium rpm 2k, 1st or 2nd gear (depending on grass) the grass is a heavy load on the pto/engine. George H. (did you guys do anything actively to reduce the political crap on this site/net? or was it natural?) Ive been out of town a lot and havent been around to attract the scum and turds. And Ive made a concious effort to remove this group from their mass posts If it's like the Lucas distributors I'm familiar with then the advance unit can seize on the central spindle normally through lack of oiling the centre shaft. Usually easy to dismantle, clean out any congealed lubricant, oil and re-assemble and you should have functional advance. __ "Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport" Yeah..with no bag limit. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
No spark (distributor question)
On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 1:17:09 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Apr 2020 05:20:06 -0700 (PDT) wrote: Huge snip Hi Clare, others. I tried the smell test the other day. It's got more of an oily smell than the gas I smell when I leave the choke on. TBH the black plugs are not that much of a problem. I clean 'em in the spring and maybe another time during the summer. I did check the float level and that looked spot on. I do love this old tractor. I had the head rebuilt a few years ago. With any luck she'll out live me. :^) Found a nice service manual here (~55mb): http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/...e%20Manual.pdf === Per that manual you should have a "Delco-Remy Model No. 1111722 with crankshaft rotation advance of 26 and 24 degrees respectively, both models are fully automatic.. The centrifugal advance mechanism is in- corporated in the distributor to automatically vary the timing of the spark with respect to the position of the piston in the cylinder. At high speeds, the spark must occur at the plug earlier in the compression stroke In order for the fuel mixture to deliver full power. The advance mechanism consists of an ad- vance cam, breaker cam, a pair of ' advance weights, springs and a weight base that is In- tegral with the distributor shaft. At low speeds, the advance weights are held in to- ward the center by the spring tension. As the speed of the distributor shaft increases, the centrifugal force overcomes the spring tension and the weights move outward and the toggles on the weights engage the advance cam. This rotates the advance cam and break- er cam which in turn allows the breaker cam to open and close the contact points earlier, thus advancing the spark... === Maybe help you out some ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI ======================== The quick check is to try to rotate the breaker point plate to see if it moves freely, and springs back. Maybe the springs broke, or it was reassembled incorrectly? Hmm OK I don't know how the advancement works. A rainy day here and I'll take the distributor apart and look inside. The rotor seems locked to the shaft/ gear that goes into the engine block. But according to the service manual I should be able to advance the rotor a little by hand and have it spring back... The rotor doesn't move... except with the engine. More later. George H. Distributors are rather mysterious if you don't understand what an ignition system needs and how they interact with the rest of the components to provide it, which is why I described all of the basics. There is more, magnetos, ballast resistors and the distributor-less "wasted spark" system, and the different worlds of electronic and computerized ignitions. I examined this closely at the NSU Zweirad (two-wheel) Museum: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daimler_Reitwagen https://www.zweirad-museum.de/zweira...1885-1929.html The ignition is a closed-end tube protruding from the combustion chamber with a little flame playing on it to keep it red hot -- beneath the gas tank. Pray for no leaks! |
No spark (distributor question)
On 30/04/2020 17:11, wrote:
On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 1:17:09 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: "Leon Fisk" wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Apr 2020 05:20:06 -0700 (PDT) wrote: Huge snip Hi Clare, others. I tried the smell test the other day. It's got more of an oily smell than the gas I smell when I leave the choke on. TBH the black plugs are not that much of a problem. I clean 'em in the spring and maybe another time during the summer. I did check the float level and that looked spot on. I do love this old tractor. I had the head rebuilt a few years ago. With any luck she'll out live me. :^) Found a nice service manual here (~55mb): http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/...e%20Manual.pdf === Per that manual you should have a "Delco-Remy Model No. 1111722 with crankshaft rotation advance of 26 and 24 degrees respectively, both models are fully automatic.. The centrifugal advance mechanism is in- corporated in the distributor to automatically vary the timing of the spark with respect to the position of the piston in the cylinder. At high speeds, the spark must occur at the plug earlier in the compression stroke In order for the fuel mixture to deliver full power. The advance mechanism consists of an ad- vance cam, breaker cam, a pair of ' advance weights, springs and a weight base that is In- tegral with the distributor shaft. At low speeds, the advance weights are held in to- ward the center by the spring tension. As the speed of the distributor shaft increases, the centrifugal force overcomes the spring tension and the weights move outward and the toggles on the weights engage the advance cam. This rotates the advance cam and break- er cam which in turn allows the breaker cam to open and close the contact points earlier, thus advancing the spark... === Maybe help you out some ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI ======================== The quick check is to try to rotate the breaker point plate to see if it moves freely, and springs back. Maybe the springs broke, or it was reassembled incorrectly? Hmm OK I don't know how the advancement works. A rainy day here and I'll take the distributor apart and look inside. The rotor seems locked to the shaft/ gear that goes into the engine block. But according to the service manual I should be able to advance the rotor a little by hand and have it spring back... The rotor doesn't move... except with the engine. More later. George H. Likely the lubricant between the 2 part has congealed or it has rusted. You'll need to dismantle it and clean it up, re-lube and put it back together. I posted the same on the 28th but I guess you didn't see it. Distributors are rather mysterious if you don't understand what an ignition system needs and how they interact with the rest of the components to provide it, which is why I described all of the basics. There is more, magnetos, ballast resistors and the distributor-less "wasted spark" system, and the different worlds of electronic and computerized ignitions. I examined this closely at the NSU Zweirad (two-wheel) Museum: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daimler_Reitwagen https://www.zweirad-museum.de/zweira...1885-1929.html The ignition is a closed-end tube protruding from the combustion chamber with a little flame playing on it to keep it red hot -- beneath the gas tank. Pray for no leaks! |
No spark (distributor question)
"David Billington" wrote in message ...
On 30/04/2020 17:11, wrote: On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 1:17:09 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: "Leon Fisk" wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Apr 2020 05:20:06 -0700 (PDT) wrote: Huge snip The quick check is to try to rotate the breaker point plate to see if it moves freely, and springs back. Maybe the springs broke, or it was reassembled incorrectly? Hmm OK I don't know how the advancement works. A rainy day here and I'll take the distributor apart and look inside. The rotor seems locked to the shaft/ gear that goes into the engine block. But according to the service manual I should be able to advance the rotor a little by hand and have it spring back... The rotor doesn't move... except with the engine. More later. George H. Likely the lubricant between the 2 part has congealed or it has rusted. You'll need to dismantle it and clean it up, re-lube and put it back together. I posted the same on the 28th but I guess you didn't see it. ======================================= What he said. Set the engine to a definite position like #1 TDC and note the rotor and distributor's position when its gear disengages. Take some pix before you disassemble the advance unless the manual shows reassembly clearly. |
No spark (distributor question)
Hmm OK I don't know how the advancement works.
=========================== Advancement works in strange ways. I had to install a 2 line phone in a senior NCO's office before they would submit my promotion to sergeant. The standard joke is about having to get down on your knees, and I really did to connect the wires. |
No spark (distributor question)
On Thursday, April 30, 2020 at 12:35:01 PM UTC-4, David Billington wrote:
On 30/04/2020 17:11, wrote: On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 1:17:09 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: "Leon Fisk" wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Apr 2020 05:20:06 -0700 (PDT) wrote: Huge snip Hi Clare, others. I tried the smell test the other day. It's got more of an oily smell than the gas I smell when I leave the choke on. TBH the black plugs are not that much of a problem. I clean 'em in the spring and maybe another time during the summer. I did check the float level and that looked spot on. I do love this old tractor. I had the head rebuilt a few years ago. With any luck she'll out live me. :^) Found a nice service manual here (~55mb): http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/...e%20Manual.pdf === Per that manual you should have a "Delco-Remy Model No. 1111722 with crankshaft rotation advance of 26 and 24 degrees respectively, both models are fully automatic.. The centrifugal advance mechanism is in- corporated in the distributor to automatically vary the timing of the spark with respect to the position of the piston in the cylinder. At high speeds, the spark must occur at the plug earlier in the compression stroke In order for the fuel mixture to deliver full power. The advance mechanism consists of an ad- vance cam, breaker cam, a pair of ' advance weights, springs and a weight base that is In- tegral with the distributor shaft. At low speeds, the advance weights are held in to- ward the center by the spring tension. As the speed of the distributor shaft increases, the centrifugal force overcomes the spring tension and the weights move outward and the toggles on the weights engage the advance cam. This rotates the advance cam and break- er cam which in turn allows the breaker cam to open and close the contact points earlier, thus advancing the spark... === Maybe help you out some ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI ======================== The quick check is to try to rotate the breaker point plate to see if it moves freely, and springs back. Maybe the springs broke, or it was reassembled incorrectly? Hmm OK I don't know how the advancement works. A rainy day here and I'll take the distributor apart and look inside. The rotor seems locked to the shaft/ gear that goes into the engine block. But according to the service manual I should be able to advance the rotor a little by hand and have it spring back... The rotor doesn't move... except with the engine. More later. George H. Likely the lubricant between the 2 part has congealed or it has rusted. You'll need to dismantle it and clean it up, re-lube and put it back together. I posted the same on the 28th but I guess you didn't see it. Right. Sorry. I read stuff. (Even in the service manual.) And it makes no sense to me. I move on in the hope that it will make sense in the future. Anyway taking off the cover it was indeed rusted underneath. I scrubbed with toothbrush and kerosene and it's now getting a kerosene soak for the night. George H. Distributors are rather mysterious if you don't understand what an ignition system needs and how they interact with the rest of the components to provide it, which is why I described all of the basics. There is more, magnetos, ballast resistors and the distributor-less "wasted spark" system, and the different worlds of electronic and computerized ignitions. I examined this closely at the NSU Zweirad (two-wheel) Museum: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daimler_Reitwagen https://www.zweirad-museum.de/zweira...1885-1929.html The ignition is a closed-end tube protruding from the combustion chamber with a little flame playing on it to keep it red hot -- beneath the gas tank. Pray for no leaks! |
No spark (distributor question)
Right. Sorry. I read stuff. (Even in the service manual.) And it makes no sense to me. I move on in the hope that it will make sense in the future. ============================ https://nobelcoaching.com/visual-or-verbal-learner/ "It is more effective for everyone to absorb information when it is presented both visually and verbally, but what if the lectures consist of speech only?" Which is the problem we face when writing explanations in text-only r.c.m. I'm by nature a visual learner and have difficulty reducing multidimensional concepts to linear text, so I practice here. Scientists and engineers explain things to each other by sketching and are nearly helpless when they can't. At a Mensa meeting the speaker dropped into a boring monotone and then suddenly said ELEPHANT, and asked us what immediately came to mind. Everyone but me reported either the word or an image. I was the only one who saw both, a captioned color picture of an elephant pulling down a tree branch. |
No spark (distributor question)
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message ...
Thanks for the TO20 recommendation. I used my machine shop to build a hydraulic front end loader attachment for my 18HP garden tractor to clear snow, for which it worked quite well, however the tractor isn't heavy or strong enough to more than scratch at our rocky New England soil. ================================================== ==== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...Y20vTCs_j1loIT The bucket is stainless to survive road salt, arc welded with 312 rod. It will lift and dump all the fresh snow it can hold, or about half a bucket of packed snowbank. The visible trailer tire is the one I had trouble with. Once sunlight returned I could see a forest of fine whiskers of molding sprue rubber in the bead area, at least two of which had been squished radially between the rim and bead over its full width and left indented channels which may have been the slow leak path. I snipped off the sprues, smeared latex along the bead, remounted the tire without a tube, and it's holding pressure. My error was not inflating and deflating the tube to position it before levering the bead back into the rim. A tire lever pinched the still folded tube. I should have fixed the air compressor -before- tackling the tire. With luck the large round patch in the kit I bought will salvage the tube. |
No spark (distributor question)
================================================== ==== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...Y20vTCs_j1loIT Sharing enabled? https://photos.app.goo.gl/ADDqcqbkWemoD2eC6 |
No spark (distributor question)
On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 8:15:11 AM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Right. Sorry. I read stuff. (Even in the service manual.) And it makes no sense to me. I move on in the hope that it will make sense in the future. ============================ https://nobelcoaching.com/visual-or-verbal-learner/ "It is more effective for everyone to absorb information when it is presented both visually and verbally, but what if the lectures consist of speech only?" Which is the problem we face when writing explanations in text-only r.c.m. I'm by nature a visual learner and have difficulty reducing multidimensional concepts to linear text, so I practice here. Scientists and engineers explain things to each other by sketching and are nearly helpless when they can't. At a Mensa meeting the speaker dropped into a boring monotone and then suddenly said ELEPHANT, and asked us what immediately came to mind. Everyone but me reported either the word or an image. I was the only one who saw both, a captioned color picture of an elephant pulling down a tree branch. Yeah I'm totally a visual learner*. A exploded view of all my tractor parts.. (or just the distributor (D)) would be a wonderful thing. After soaking over night I put some vise grips on the D's rotating shaft and got it to give a bit.. but it's tight. I found this oil plug felt, top center of shaft and maybe I can blow some air down in there? George H. *words are slippery things, they slip and flip around on the way from my brain to my voice, and from my ears / eyes to my brain. |
No spark (distributor question)
On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 8:32:21 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
================================================== ==== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...Y20vTCs_j1loIT Sharing enabled? https://photos.app.goo.gl/ADDqcqbkWemoD2eC6 Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor. George H. |
No spark (distributor question)
On Fri, 1 May 2020 18:32:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 8:32:21 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: ================================================== ==== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...Y20vTCs_j1loIT Sharing enabled? https://photos.app.goo.gl/ADDqcqbkWemoD2eC6 Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor. George H. YouTube is FILLED with welding videos. There are some very good ones there. Look for the guys with 5-200 videos. You will learn a lot. I watch a couple every week, and my welding, setup and so forth has gotten much better. Gunner __ "Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport" Yeah..with no bag limit. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
No spark (distributor question)
wrote in message
... On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 8:32:21 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: ================================================== ==== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...Y20vTCs_j1loIT Sharing enabled? https://photos.app.goo.gl/ADDqcqbkWemoD2eC6 Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor. George H. ================================================= I tried to learn stick welding in college but didn't really get it. When area voc-techs began offering adult night classes I took machining and welding classes repeatedly until I could do something useful without an instructor looking over my shoulder, observing and correcting my mistakes which a video can't do. Before welding the main frame for that loader, a U of 2" square tubing that holds the oil, I used all but the last session to practice welding butt joints with 7018 rod, and then bending them to destruction with the shop's 50 ton press. Once I had full but not excessive bead penetration from one side and could fold the test samples double along the weld without cracking I welded the frame. I'm still very far from being a good welder. 7018 absorbs moisture unless stored air-tight. Of the rods that can be stored open I found 6013 and 7014 the easiest and neatest. I didn't do very well with 6011. Besides the welder you need something to cut steel. I bought a used 4" x 6" horizontal bandsaw of better than their average quality to cut bar and tubing stock squarely and accurately. In the vertical position it can cut flat plate free-hand, limited by the minimal left side clearance to the frame. An abrasive chop saw also works, but not a wood-cutting bandsaw unless you reduce its speed to 1/10th. |
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On Fri, 1 May 2020 18:32:06 -0700 (PDT)
wrote: snip Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor. My favorite youtuber and has his own website is Jody: https://www.youtube.com/user/welding...dtricks/videos http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/stick-welding.html Try to keep your rods in a dry place. Not out in a damp work shed. Mine are kept in the bedroom with a plastic bag tightly wrapped, tied around them after opening... 6013 rods have a tendency to worm hole and can be tough to see what's happening in the puddle. But you can get them 1/16 inch, which can be handy for thinner material and laying in a root for narrow grooves... Your 6011 1/8 rods should be fine for getting started :) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
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Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor.
George H. ========================== There are "Lawn", "Yard" and "Garden" tractors, in order of increasing ruggedness. That is a Garden tractor with a substantial ladder frame and a low range in the manual transmission, meant to pull a small plow behind or carry a dozer blade or snow blower attachment on the front. The rear ag tires are the same size as the original turf treads. I started with a Lawn tractor whose stamped sheet metal chassis disintegrated from the stress of pulling that trailer through the woods. My neighbor has a Yard tractor with more HP but significantly less pulling power than mine. I also inherited the 2005 replacement for that 1987 tractor. It differs from a Yard tractor in not having mulching or bagger attachments. Neither turns tightly enough to be a really good lawn mower. That's fine, I don't have a really good lawn. |
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On Saturday, May 2, 2020 at 8:48:24 AM UTC-4, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Fri, 1 May 2020 18:32:06 -0700 (PDT) wrote: snip Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor. My favorite youtuber and has his own website is Jody: https://www.youtube.com/user/welding...dtricks/videos http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/stick-welding.html Try to keep your rods in a dry place. Not out in a damp work shed. Mine are kept in the bedroom with a plastic bag tightly wrapped, tied around them after opening... 6013 rods have a tendency to worm hole and can be tough to see what's happening in the puddle. But you can get them 1/16 inch, which can be handy for thinner material and laying in a root for narrow grooves... Your 6011 1/8 rods should be fine for getting started :) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI Thanks I'll check him out. I figure there's lotsa stuff I'd like to do that is just filling in rusted out steel. An old snow plow number one on the list. Like filling in rotted out wood there's an endless list of projects. George H. |
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On Saturday, May 2, 2020 at 8:14:22 AM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message ... On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 8:32:21 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: ================================================== ==== Aha, my old Picasa photos are still around: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...Y20vTCs_j1loIT Sharing enabled? https://photos.app.goo.gl/ADDqcqbkWemoD2eC6 Nice. Let me ask a welding question. Being bored and at home from college (freshman) my son has turned to welding. (I bought us helmets a few years ago, we've got an old Dayton AC/DC stick welder. and some real old stick... but new stuff is on the way from amazon. 6011 1/8".) Anyway there are like a bazillion stick welding videos, and if anyone has a series or person they like... please tell me. We're totally idiot beginners. Mostly farm repair kinda stuff. Well and 'the boy' wants to mod an old lawn tractor. George H. ================================================= I tried to learn stick welding in college but didn't really get it. When area voc-techs began offering adult night classes I took machining and welding classes repeatedly until I could do something useful without an instructor looking over my shoulder, observing and correcting my mistakes which a video can't do. Before welding the main frame for that loader, a U of 2" square tubing that holds the oil, I used all but the last session to practice welding butt joints with 7018 rod, and then bending them to destruction with the shop's 50 ton press. Once I had full but not excessive bead penetration from one side and could fold the test samples double along the weld without cracking I welded the frame. I'm still very far from being a good welder. Hah, we're having a hard time getting the arc going with out sticking the rod to the piece. "Stop, stuck the rod again" says my son. :^) It's kinda like sticking the landing in ice skating.. but opposite. Once going he seems to be much better (than me) at laying down a nice bead. 7018 absorbs moisture unless stored air-tight. Of the rods that can be stored open I found 6013 and 7014 the easiest and neatest. I didn't do very well with 6011. Besides the welder you need something to cut steel. I bought a used 4" x 6" horizontal bandsaw of better than their average quality to cut bar and tubing stock squarely and accurately. In the vertical position it can cut flat plate free-hand, limited by the minimal left side clearance to the frame. An abrasive chop saw also works, but not a wood-cutting bandsaw unless you reduce its speed to 1/10th. Thanks for that. Well a new order of 6011 is on the way and will be here soon. We'll see if that works any better. I was trying to talk my son into a night class or something... there's a place 'up the road' near Rochester NY. We'll see. Most of what I want to do is crude 'farm' repair. He has more ambitious dreams (which is fine) of building stuff. bandsaw and cutting. At home I've only used the reciprocating saw (~sawzall) with a metal blade. (slow) George H. |
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bandsaw and cutting. At home I've only used the reciprocating
saw (~sawzall) with a metal blade. (slow) George H. =============================== The nearly essential power tool for welding is an angle grinder. I have a 4-1/2" one for precision and control, and a 7" one for speed. A decent quality 4-1/2" is a good start. They grind or wire-brush through rust quickly and are the eraser for your welding mistakes. They can slice steel free-hand with a cut-off blade, or you can buy a holder that turns them into a small chop saw for better accuracy. They soon pay back their cost in the clothing (and skin) that wasn't ripped by rough cut edges and welds. They are quite versatile, mine has cut concrete sewer pipe and smoothed a rough stone step. A bandsaw is better for thicker steel like building a hydraulic log splitter, abrasive disks are good for thinner metal such as EMT conduit or corrugated roofing that could strip saw blade teeth. Both can cut 1/8" angle iron or water pipe. |
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On Mon, 27 Apr 2020 07:54:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Sunday, April 26, 2020 at 7:13:08 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sun, 26 Apr 2020 11:23:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote: So let me ask a related question. The plugs are always getting fouled (black fried gunk) on this tractor and I clean 'em with kerosene. Could I maybe fix that some with better timing? Though it does other things this tractor spends most of it's life dragging a mower deck around the 'estate' (The mower deck is called an estate groomer in the manual. :^) Sorta medium rpm 2k, 1st or 2nd gear (depending on grass) the grass is a heavy load on the pto/engine. George H. (did you guys do anything actively to reduce the political crap on this site/net? or was it natural?) Running rich most likely (float too high?) or possibly pumping oil. Try a warmer plug. Champion F16 or even D21 instead of the original ===================================== Running rich and burning oil give different exhaust smells. Oil smells like -- burnt oil, a rich mixture smells like solvents, applying the choke gives you an example. You can briefly hold your hand in the exhaust and then sniff it. A modern car exhaust is the standard for proper combustion. Thanks Jim. So if my exhaust smells the same as when I leave the choke on, then maybe it's a carb problem? (I'm resisting the urge to make some fart joke.) George, do the tuneup with points and condenser, and put in new plugs. Now that it's running correctly, check the plugs at 5 hours and see if there is still black fried gunk on 'em. That could indicate oil burning. Black soot is a rich carb condition. Go from there. -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe |
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