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Old metal screwdrivers
I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones
with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, CP |
Old metal screwdrivers
On 02/18/2016 12:13 PM, MOP CAP wrote:
I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? -- |
Old metal screwdrivers
On 2016-02-18 18:41:23 +0000, dpb said:
On 02/18/2016 12:13 PM, MOP CAP wrote: I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? Weathered with a few cracks. |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 10:51:18 -0800, MOP CAP wrote:
On 2016-02-18 18:41:23 +0000, dpb said: On 02/18/2016 12:13 PM, MOP CAP wrote: I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? Weathered with a few cracks. It depends on how pretty you want it to be. I have one screwdriver built like that, and a meat cleaver that is similar. I used ordinary hardware-store epoxy on both. They're probably stronger than they were when new, but they're not the prettiest things in my drawer. -- Ed Huntress |
Old metal screwdrivers
On 02/18/2016 12:51 PM, MOP CAP wrote:
On 2016-02-18 18:41:23 +0000, dpb said: On 02/18/2016 12:13 PM, MOP CAP wrote: I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? Weathered with a few cracks. I'd probably do nothing (other than keep them out of the weather :) ) than perhaps sand a little and oil, then. As Ed says, you can fill but unless the cracking is so bad they're actually going to fail or they're uncomfortable, a little checking won't make any significant difference on the longevity and I tend to prefer that stuff that's old with "character" keep that as much as can without being anal about "reproduction" or "antique" status. -- |
Old metal screwdrivers
dpb wrote:
On 02/18/2016 12:51 PM, MOP CAP wrote: On 2016-02-18 18:41:23 +0000, dpb said: On 02/18/2016 12:13 PM, MOP CAP wrote: I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? Weathered with a few cracks. I'd probably do nothing (other than keep them out of the weather :) ) than perhaps sand a little and oil, then. As Ed says, you can fill but unless the cracking is so bad they're actually going to fail or they're uncomfortable, a little checking won't make any significant difference on the longevity and I tend to prefer that stuff that's old with "character" keep that as much as can without being anal about "reproduction" or "antique" status. I've got a flat Stanley driver that just big enough to be more of a really well made prybar that I like (got it from an old timer for a token amount, then he died). It's old enough to be wood with a blue paint job. I use my tools, so it's not going on a display case or anything, but what might be a good way to seal it up and protect it just a bit so the paint lasts a bit longer? What did folks do back in the day, if anything with these tools to keep them in good shape? The plastic stuff we have is maintenance free, so "screwdriver PM day" doesn't really happen around here too often. |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 4:07:05 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? Weathered with a few cracks. but what might be a good way to seal it up and protect it just a bit so the paint lasts a bit longer? You might look up Boiled Linseed Oil / Crazy glue on the internet. It is quick, but may not last too many years. Dan |
Old metal screwdrivers
On 02/18/2016 3:07 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
.... I've got a flat Stanley driver that just big enough to be more of a really well made prybar that I like (got it from an old timer for a token amount, then he died). It's old enough to be wood with a blue paint job. I use my tools, so it's not going on a display case or anything, but what might be a good way to seal it up and protect it just a bit so the paint lasts a bit longer? We just did "flat Stanley" for the youngest grandson... :) On a painted handle, I'd probably only add a wipe-on varnish after cleaning... What did folks do back in the day, if anything with these tools to keep them in good shape? Mostly nothing other than keep dry. I've several wood-handled screwdrivers from grandfather that've been here on the farm since the '20s or maybe even were original ten years prior to that, I don't know. I remember using them from the time I was first big enough to get into stuff... :) .... -- |
Old metal screwdrivers
What did folks do back in the day, if anything with these tools to keep them in good shape? Actually, just using them regularly likely kept them in good condition. Human skin oils are also effective 'drying oils' for finishing wood. Lloyd |
Old metal screwdrivers
dpb wrote:
On 02/18/2016 3:07 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote: ... I've got a flat Stanley driver that just big enough to be more of a really well made prybar that I like (got it from an old timer for a token amount, then he died). It's old enough to be wood with a blue paint job. I use my tools, so it's not going on a display case or anything, but what might be a good way to seal it up and protect it just a bit so the paint lasts a bit longer? We just did "flat Stanley" for the youngest grandson... :) Nice. On a painted handle, I'd probably only add a wipe-on varnish after cleaning... What did folks do back in the day, if anything with these tools to keep them in good shape? Mostly nothing other than keep dry. I've several wood-handled screwdrivers from grandfather that've been here on the farm since the '20s or maybe even were original ten years prior to that, I don't know. I remember using them from the time I was first big enough to get into stuff... :) Anybody know if there was a preferred type of wood used for screwdriver handles? Recently Went to the guitar center with a friend who picked up some drum sticks. I noticed they proudly state "hickory" on the good ones, so I asked the sales guy what's special about hickory and mentioned it's what good hammer handles are made from. He said will gracefully break and never shatter into splinters. Guess that's a common desired factor in striking tools and drum sticks. |
Old metal screwdrivers
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na5mgv
: Anybody know if there was a preferred type of wood used for screwdriver handles? For good ones, it was often Rosewood early-on, then Walnut, often. The "Perfect Pattern Handle" was the first successful commercial version. Lloyd |
Old metal screwdrivers
I've found the plastic in X-lite tends to get oxide or is attacked with
a mold. I have sets of them that get gray and fuzzy. Not flaky. I put them in a basket in my RF sweeping cem tank and some Simple green or like. In a day they are bright and nice again. I haven't seen the effect on anything but the x-lite brand. I suspect a different plastic is used and that makes the difference. Martin On 2/18/2016 3:07 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote: dpb wrote: On 02/18/2016 12:51 PM, MOP CAP wrote: On 2016-02-18 18:41:23 +0000, dpb said: On 02/18/2016 12:13 PM, MOP CAP wrote: I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? Weathered with a few cracks. I'd probably do nothing (other than keep them out of the weather :) ) than perhaps sand a little and oil, then. As Ed says, you can fill but unless the cracking is so bad they're actually going to fail or they're uncomfortable, a little checking won't make any significant difference on the longevity and I tend to prefer that stuff that's old with "character" keep that as much as can without being anal about "reproduction" or "antique" status. I've got a flat Stanley driver that just big enough to be more of a really well made prybar that I like (got it from an old timer for a token amount, then he died). It's old enough to be wood with a blue paint job. I use my tools, so it's not going on a display case or anything, but what might be a good way to seal it up and protect it just a bit so the paint lasts a bit longer? What did folks do back in the day, if anything with these tools to keep them in good shape? The plastic stuff we have is maintenance free, so "screwdriver PM day" doesn't really happen around here too often. |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 10:13:19 -0800, MOP CAP wrote:
I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Clean them with soap and water, then let them dry. Then clean them with mineral spirits. Each cleans different dirts/oils from them. Then give them a treatment with one of the following wipe-on tung oil varnishes: Waterlox Satin (my favorite), Watco, or (since it is about all that stores carry any more, cringe) Minwax Wipe-On Poly (did I really type that out loud?) sigh I said to remove them so you can finish all sides and truly seal them. 2 coats will do it. More than that may cause the handles to get slippery when your palms are wet. You want a sealer rather than a thick film finish. -- No greater wrong can ever be done than to put a good man at the mercy of a bad, while telling him not to defend himself or his fellows; in no way can the success of evil be made quicker or surer. --Theodore Roosevelt |
Old metal screwdrivers
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na5mgv : Anybody know if there was a preferred type of wood used for screwdriver handles? For good ones, it was often Rosewood early-on, then Walnut, often. The "Perfect Pattern Handle" was the first successful commercial version. Rosewood is one strange material. Had a small coupon of it on my keychain for years, it was outlasting the other metal junk attached next to it. |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 20:49:19 -0600
Martin Eastburn wrote: I've found the plastic in X-lite tends to get oxide or is attacked with a mold. I have sets of them that get gray and fuzzy. Not flaky. I put them in a basket in my RF sweeping cem tank and some Simple green or like. In a day they are bright and nice again. I haven't seen the effect on anything but the x-lite brand. I suspect a different plastic is used and that makes the difference. Martin I've got a couple Stanleys that do that too. Both have triangular shaped handles, kinda translucent charcoal color. I used my finger nail to scrape most of it off (big tough nails). Figured it had something to do with being kept in the basement and too much humidity at times... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
Old metal screwdrivers
Martin Eastburn wrote:
I've found the plastic in X-lite tends to get oxide or is attacked with a mold. I have sets of them that get gray and fuzzy. Not flaky. I put them in a basket in my RF sweeping cem tank and some Simple green or like. In a day they are bright and nice again. I haven't seen the effect on anything but the x-lite brand. I suspect a different plastic is used and that makes the difference. Is this a problem with the black or the fruit colored handles? |
Old metal screwdrivers
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na7kum
: Is this a problem with the black or the fruit colored handles? All of them. I have always owned Xcelite tools since being in the TV repair business in the 1960s, and the computer biz in the 70s through 1997. All of their plastic handles, upon exposure to high humidity and warm temps develop that white haze of fungus. It has to be one of the plasticizers they use. No biggy. A little abrasive cleaner like fine steel wool brings them right back to shape. Lloyd |
Old metal screwdrivers
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na7kum : Is this a problem with the black or the fruit colored handles? All of them. I have always owned Xcelite tools since being in the TV repair business in the 1960s, and the computer biz in the 70s through 1997. All of their plastic handles, upon exposure to high humidity and warm temps develop that white haze of fungus. It has to be one of the plasticizers they use. No biggy. A little abrasive cleaner like fine steel wool brings them right back to shape. never seen this- have used a ton of them, old and new. Is it real mold or some sort of haze, like superglue on plastic haze? It's not super humid or hot all the time in Chicago though. Not sure about xcelite, but lots of screwdriver handles are acetate. No plasticizers in there. Do you have something that off-gasses around your tools? |
Old metal screwdrivers
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na85c8
: Not sure about xcelite, but lots of screwdriver handles are acetate. No plasticizers in there. Do you have something that off-gasses around your tools? Nah... it's specific to Xcelite tools. I've been experiencing this since the 1960s, and I have lots of other brands that don't do it. This is Florida. 90% humidity, and temps in the 90s, ALL SUMMER LONG. G And it is a fungus, but an innocuous one, apparently. No stink, but under magnification, you can see the fruiting bodies. Lloyd |
Old metal screwdrivers
It is typically full of silicon. Tough on tooling. Tough on what it
slides against... :-) Martin On 2/19/2016 10:55 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote: Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na5mgv : Anybody know if there was a preferred type of wood used for screwdriver handles? For good ones, it was often Rosewood early-on, then Walnut, often. The "Perfect Pattern Handle" was the first successful commercial version. Rosewood is one strange material. Had a small coupon of it on my keychain for years, it was outlasting the other metal junk attached next to it. |
Old metal screwdrivers
Just noticed my wood chisels are frosty white. I'll have to clean them
now. They were clear plastic. Must be the type. Sears about 20 years ago... could be any name brand. Martin On 2/18/2016 8:49 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote: I've found the plastic in X-lite tends to get oxide or is attacked with a mold. I have sets of them that get gray and fuzzy. Not flaky. I put them in a basket in my RF sweeping cem tank and some Simple green or like. In a day they are bright and nice again. I haven't seen the effect on anything but the x-lite brand. I suspect a different plastic is used and that makes the difference. Martin On 2/18/2016 3:07 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote: dpb wrote: On 02/18/2016 12:51 PM, MOP CAP wrote: On 2016-02-18 18:41:23 +0000, dpb said: On 02/18/2016 12:13 PM, MOP CAP wrote: I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, Just surface weathered w/ a few cracks or is it "punky"??? Weathered with a few cracks. I'd probably do nothing (other than keep them out of the weather :) ) than perhaps sand a little and oil, then. As Ed says, you can fill but unless the cracking is so bad they're actually going to fail or they're uncomfortable, a little checking won't make any significant difference on the longevity and I tend to prefer that stuff that's old with "character" keep that as much as can without being anal about "reproduction" or "antique" status. I've got a flat Stanley driver that just big enough to be more of a really well made prybar that I like (got it from an old timer for a token amount, then he died). It's old enough to be wood with a blue paint job. I use my tools, so it's not going on a display case or anything, but what might be a good way to seal it up and protect it just a bit so the paint lasts a bit longer? What did folks do back in the day, if anything with these tools to keep them in good shape? The plastic stuff we have is maintenance free, so "screwdriver PM day" doesn't really happen around here too often. |
Old metal screwdrivers
I have small kits of all color and they use the black handles that the
nut drivers or screw drivers slip in. All of them black blue yellow.... Might be a polycarbonate or something. My shop is 80% if the outside is. Martin On 2/19/2016 11:55 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote: Martin Eastburn wrote: I've found the plastic in X-lite tends to get oxide or is attacked with a mold. I have sets of them that get gray and fuzzy. Not flaky. I put them in a basket in my RF sweeping cem tank and some Simple green or like. In a day they are bright and nice again. I haven't seen the effect on anything but the x-lite brand. I suspect a different plastic is used and that makes the difference. Is this a problem with the black or the fruit colored handles? |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 21:24:57 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote: It is typically full of silicon. Tough on tooling. Tough on what it slides against... :-) I believe that is silica - same stuff sand and glass is made of. Cedar tends to have a fair amount of it too. One of the things that makes both a little tricky to glue. Martin On 2/19/2016 10:55 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote: Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na5mgv : Anybody know if there was a preferred type of wood used for screwdriver handles? For good ones, it was often Rosewood early-on, then Walnut, often. The "Perfect Pattern Handle" was the first successful commercial version. Rosewood is one strange material. Had a small coupon of it on my keychain for years, it was outlasting the other metal junk attached next to it. |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 21:29:32 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote: I have small kits of all color and they use the black handles that the nut drivers or screw drivers slip in. All of them black blue yellow.... Might be a polycarbonate or something. My shop is 80% if the outside is. Martin On 2/19/2016 11:55 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote: Martin Eastburn wrote: I've found the plastic in X-lite tends to get oxide or is attacked with a mold. I have sets of them that get gray and fuzzy. Not flaky. I put them in a basket in my RF sweeping cem tank and some Simple green or like. In a day they are bright and nice again. I haven't seen the effect on anything but the x-lite brand. I suspect a different plastic is used and that makes the difference. Is this a problem with the black or the fruit colored handles? Early craftsman drivers had the same problem. I believe they were either tenite or acetate based plastic (made from cellulose) From Eastman Kodak information: http://www.eastman.com/Literature_Center/P/PP104.pdf You will find the "deterioration" is caused by ultraviolet exposure (and I suspect also from ozone) |
Old metal screwdrivers
MOP CAP wrote:
I recently picked up some old almost all metal screwdrivers. The ones with just the wood inserts in the handles. The wood is very weathered. What type of treatment can I use to stabilize the wood in the handle? Thanks, CP Kwik-Poly. http://kwikpolyllc.com/ It's a water thin two part epoxy. Scuff the wood with some 220 or so to open the pores and brush on a few coats, it will absorb into the wood. Let it cure for a few hours and lightly scuff it to even out the finish. The wood will last a LONG time. This stuff works great to seal fuel tanks as well as a host of other things. -- Steve W. |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 5:14:59 PM UTC-8, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
[about white blush on plastic handles] And it is a fungus, but an innocuous one, apparently. No stink, but under magnification, you can see the fruiting bodies. Tripoli and a buffing wheel. Or a rag and some metal polish. It comes right off. |
Old metal screwdrivers
|
Old metal screwdrivers
On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 06:55:16 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: fired this volley in : You will find the "deterioration" is caused by ultraviolet exposure (and I suspect also from ozone) That might be the case with the Craftsman handles. I can assure you it never was the case with my Xcelite tools, because they were only used indoors, and kept in the dark all the time they were not in the active position on a fastener. (tool roll, inside a closed briefcase-style toolkit. If _never_ handled, they keep for years without any discoloration. Once touched, if used frequently, the blush never appears. Store one in the dark for a few months without use, and it's almost white all over. Besides, we looked at some under the microscope... just out of curiosity. It's clearly a fungal growth. LLoyd I still suspect they are either Tenite or Acetate - modified celulose - whether it is ultraviolet/ozone oxidation or actual fungus |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 21:24:57 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote: It is typically full of silicon. Tough on tooling. Tough on what it slides against... :-) Bamboo is also full of silicon and is thus hard on tooling. -- No greater wrong can ever be done than to put a good man at the mercy of a bad, while telling him not to defend himself or his fellows; in no way can the success of evil be made quicker or surer. --Theodore Roosevelt |
Old metal screwdrivers
|
Old metal screwdrivers
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 16:12:56 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:na7kum : Is this a problem with the black or the fruit colored handles? All of them. I have always owned Xcelite tools since being in the TV repair business in the 1960s, and the computer biz in the 70s through 1997. All of their plastic handles, upon exposure to high humidity and warm temps develop that white haze of fungus. It has to be one of the plasticizers they use. No biggy. A little abrasive cleaner like fine steel wool brings them right back to shape. Lloyd I agree..same here. Gunner |
Old metal screwdrivers
|
Old metal screwdrivers
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in news:X_
: Silicon is the element. Si Silica is the oxide form of Silicon or SiO2 Yes... We knew that. 'Do chemistry as a part of my 'fun' Elemental silicon is actually a useful material in some of what I do. G LLoyd |
Old metal screwdrivers
I used it, SiGe GaAs and another in diodes. :-)
Martin On 2/20/2016 8:17 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Martin Eastburn fired this volley in news:X_ : Silicon is the element. Si Silica is the oxide form of Silicon or SiO2 Yes... We knew that. 'Do chemistry as a part of my 'fun' Elemental silicon is actually a useful material in some of what I do. G LLoyd |
Old metal screwdrivers
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in
: I used it, SiGe GaAs and another in diodes. :-) Hah! That, too, in my former life as a digital circuit designer. Now, I use elemental Si as a 'heat' additive to pyrotechnic compositions! Military apps use quite a bit of it. G Lloyd |
Old metal screwdrivers
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 21:24:57 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote: It is typically full of silicon. Tough on tooling. Tough on what it slides against... :-) Bamboo is also full of silicon and is thus hard on tooling. I've heard stories that you can get sparks cutting large pieces of rosewood. How do all these minerals even get into the wood in the first place? It doesn't seem like silica/sand get be absorbed by plants and end up in the wood. |
Old metal screwdrivers
On 02/22/2016 2:46 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Larry wrote: On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 21:24:57 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote: It is typically full of silicon. Tough on tooling. Tough on what it slides against... :-) Bamboo is also full of silicon and is thus hard on tooling. I've heard stories that you can get sparks cutting large pieces of rosewood. How do all these minerals even get into the wood in the first place? It doesn't seem like silica/sand get be absorbed by plants and end up in the wood. They're formed internally from the dissolved minerals in the water taken in and then crystalize. Ash are another altho again it's "silca" and "silicates", various oxides of silicon the element. -- |
Old metal screwdrivers
"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
... Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 21:24:57 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote: It is typically full of silicon. Tough on tooling. Tough on what it slides against... :-) Bamboo is also full of silicon and is thus hard on tooling. I've heard stories that you can get sparks cutting large pieces of rosewood. How do all these minerals even get into the wood in the first place? It doesn't seem like silica/sand get be absorbed by plants and end up in the wood. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytolith |
Old metal screwdrivers
On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 20:46:43 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 21:24:57 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote: It is typically full of silicon. Tough on tooling. Tough on what it slides against... :-) Bamboo is also full of silicon and is thus hard on tooling. I've heard stories that you can get sparks cutting large pieces of rosewood. How do all these minerals even get into the wood in the first place? It doesn't seem like silica/sand get be absorbed by plants and end up in the wood. That's exactly how it gets in there. The whole process is a bit mysterious, but the idea is that silica is absorbed as silicic acid and silica is deposited on the cell walls. Some plants absorb more than others. Grasses, like bamboo, absorb a lot. FWIW, rosewood is related to the sweet pea. I don't know if that has anything to do with its silica absorption, but it's a curious aside. [Courtesy of the Master Gardener program I almost finished at Rutgers, before I got too sick to finish it.] -- Ed Huntress |
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