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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ford owner, in spades.
Total metalworking content.
From a Mustang owners forum: " My car was idling like crap the other day so I figured since I just got it, it may have been awhile since anyone changed the oil out. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I used Mobile 1 synthentic oil like I was reccomended on here. Anyways, I drain out the oil and noticed it was extremely dark and even after 10 minutes of draining, it was still coming out. I decided to go ahead and flush it to make sure all the bad stuff got out. I hooked up the hose, ran water through the engine, started it up and was waiting for the water to come out clean (The engine never went above idle so I was told this would be ok). Anyways, About 3 minutes into this, then engine starts shaking and shuts off. I figured it was all cleaned out so I plugged it up, added the oil and figured I was ready to go. WRONG! The car won't freaking start now. This car has been nothing but trouble for me, I think I am done with it." |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ford owner, in spades.
Garrett Fulton wrote:
Total metalworking content. From a Mustang owners forum: " My car was idling like crap the other day so I figured since I just got it, it may have been awhile since anyone changed the oil out. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I used Mobile 1 synthentic oil like I was reccomended on here. Anyways, I drain out the oil and noticed it was extremely dark and even after 10 minutes of draining, it was still coming out. I decided to go ahead and flush it to make sure all the bad stuff got out. I hooked up the hose, ran water through the engine, started it up and was waiting for the water to come out clean (The engine never went above idle so I was told this would be ok). Anyways, About 3 minutes into this, then engine starts shaking and shuts off. I figured it was all cleaned out so I plugged it up, added the oil and figured I was ready to go. WRONG! The car won't freaking start now. This car has been nothing but trouble for me, I think I am done with it." So, is this the do it yourself version of the "cash for clunkers" program? Too bad this guy doesn't get the cash, though, sounds like he is going to need it. (The original post wasn't on April 1st, was it?) Jon |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ford owner, in spades.
On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 15:32:56 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote: Garrett Fulton wrote: Total metalworking content. From a Mustang owners forum: " My car was idling like crap the other day so I figured since I just got it, it may have been awhile since anyone changed the oil out. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I used Mobile 1 synthentic oil like I was reccomended on here. Anyways, I drain out the oil and noticed it was extremely dark and even after 10 minutes of draining, it was still coming out. I decided to go ahead and flush it to make sure all the bad stuff got out. I hooked up the hose, ran water through the engine, started it up and was waiting for the water to come out clean (The engine never went above idle so I was told this would be ok). Anyways, About 3 minutes into this, then engine starts shaking and shuts off. I figured it was all cleaned out so I plugged it up, added the oil and figured I was ready to go. WRONG! The car won't freaking start now. This car has been nothing but trouble for me, I think I am done with it." So, is this the do it yourself version of the "cash for clunkers" program? Too bad this guy doesn't get the cash, though, sounds like he is going to need it. (The original post wasn't on April 1st, was it?) Jon I HAVE flushed an engine out with water - but not running it. Had a Boat-tail Buick Riviera come in with a gash in the oil pan from driving over a curb with a chunk of rebar sticking out. He had to go th Chicago the next day (saterday) and changing the pan would require pulling the engine - and no pan avaialable immediately. I drained the engine, then flushed it with hot soapy water from the car-wash. Then I used the slide-hammer dent puller to pull the torn edges back down into place, cleaned the pan with a stiff wire brush-wheel, then had my apprentice sit on top of the engine, with the car on the hoist, discharging a co2 extinguisher in spurts into the oil filler. I was below with the torch brazing the pan back together and brazing a patch on it.. When finished brazing it I poured some good used oil in and ran the engine up to full operating temperature, then drained it and put in new oil and filter. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ford owner, in spades.
On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:13:25 -0500, clare wrote:
On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 15:32:56 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: Garrett Fulton wrote: Total metalworking content. From a Mustang owners forum: " My car was idling like crap the other day so I figured since I just got it, it may have been awhile since anyone changed the oil out. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I used Mobile 1 synthentic oil like I was reccomended on here. Anyways, I drain out the oil and noticed it was extremely dark and even after 10 minutes of draining, it was still coming out. I decided to go ahead and flush it to make sure all the bad stuff got out. I hooked up the hose, ran water through the engine, started it up and was waiting for the water to come out clean (The engine never went above idle so I was told this would be ok). Anyways, About 3 minutes into this, then engine starts shaking and shuts off. I figured it was all cleaned out so I plugged it up, added the oil and figured I was ready to go. WRONG! The car won't freaking start now. This car has been nothing but trouble for me, I think I am done with it." So, is this the do it yourself version of the "cash for clunkers" program? Too bad this guy doesn't get the cash, though, sounds like he is going to need it. (The original post wasn't on April 1st, was it?) Jon I HAVE flushed an engine out with water - but not running it. Had a Boat-tail Buick Riviera come in with a gash in the oil pan from driving over a curb with a chunk of rebar sticking out. He had to go th Chicago the next day (saterday) and changing the pan would require pulling the engine - and no pan avaialable immediately. I drained the engine, then flushed it with hot soapy water from the car-wash. Then I used the slide-hammer dent puller to pull the torn edges back down into place, cleaned the pan with a stiff wire brush-wheel, then had my apprentice sit on top of the engine, with the car on the hoist, discharging a co2 extinguisher in spurts into the oil filler. I was below with the torch brazing the pan back together and brazing a patch on it.. When finished brazing it I poured some good used oil in and ran the engine up to full operating temperature, then drained it and put in new oil and filter. Well, you used _soapy_ water. The guy in the original post used _plain_ water, which, as we all know, isn't slippery. Sometimes the devil is in the details. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ford owner, in spades.
On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:20:55 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote: On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:13:25 -0500, clare wrote: On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 15:32:56 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: Garrett Fulton wrote: Total metalworking content. From a Mustang owners forum: " My car was idling like crap the other day so I figured since I just got it, it may have been awhile since anyone changed the oil out. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I used Mobile 1 synthentic oil like I was reccomended on here. Anyways, I drain out the oil and noticed it was extremely dark and even after 10 minutes of draining, it was still coming out. I decided to go ahead and flush it to make sure all the bad stuff got out. I hooked up the hose, ran water through the engine, started it up and was waiting for the water to come out clean (The engine never went above idle so I was told this would be ok). Anyways, About 3 minutes into this, then engine starts shaking and shuts off. I figured it was all cleaned out so I plugged it up, added the oil and figured I was ready to go. WRONG! The car won't freaking start now. This car has been nothing but trouble for me, I think I am done with it." So, is this the do it yourself version of the "cash for clunkers" program? Too bad this guy doesn't get the cash, though, sounds like he is going to need it. (The original post wasn't on April 1st, was it?) Jon I HAVE flushed an engine out with water - but not running it. Had a Boat-tail Buick Riviera come in with a gash in the oil pan from driving over a curb with a chunk of rebar sticking out. He had to go th Chicago the next day (saterday) and changing the pan would require pulling the engine - and no pan avaialable immediately. I drained the engine, then flushed it with hot soapy water from the car-wash. Then I used the slide-hammer dent puller to pull the torn edges back down into place, cleaned the pan with a stiff wire brush-wheel, then had my apprentice sit on top of the engine, with the car on the hoist, discharging a co2 extinguisher in spurts into the oil filler. I was below with the torch brazing the pan back together and brazing a patch on it.. When finished brazing it I poured some good used oil in and ran the engine up to full operating temperature, then drained it and put in new oil and filter. Well, you used _soapy_ water. The guy in the original post used _plain_ water, which, as we all know, isn't slippery. Sometimes the devil is in the details. The "detail" is I didn't run the engine with the water in it!!!! But I have seen engines run with the crankcase filled with nothing but clean water (demonstrating the effect of some fancy oil additive's "plating action". |
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