Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.
The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use -- Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics. -- Ed Huntress |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Mon, 11 May 2015 08:43:56 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote: snip I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use -- Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics. And I'll second that from experience. Loctite would be a big mistake... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive. Dan |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 08:43:56 -0400 Ed Huntress wrote: snip I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use -- Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics. And I'll second that from experience. Loctite would be a big mistake... Thanks, I didn't know that. I was thinking of one of the Sika urethane adhesives perhaps. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
|
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
Most threadlockers and pipe dopes specifically warn against use on
thermoplastics (like PVC) and will eventually cause cracking. Gasoila has one pipe sealant product that is rated for use on plastics (www.mscdirect.com if you can't get it locally and to find the part # :-)), you could use that if you can't find a better threadlocker that is safe. We used a lot of it on plastic and mixed plastic-stainless steel NPT fittings, and while it doesn't set up rock hard I think it would be better than bare threads. ----- Regards, Carl Ijames carl.ijames aat deletethis verizon dott net "snafu" wrote in message ... I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive. Dan Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply soften the PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent has evaporated. It's an easy test so I should give it a go. Thanks. It might work better if the threads are rough rother than nice smooth surfaces. Dan |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. If it has a hex area above the thread, perhaps you could plastic-weld some more PVC material up around that to keep it from unscrewing. -- Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value. --Albert Einstein |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Mon, 11 May 2015 09:03:49 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote: On Mon, 11 May 2015 08:43:56 -0400 Ed Huntress wrote: snip I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use -- Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics. And I'll second that from experience. Loctite would be a big mistake... CA or Epoxy should do it well enough Gunner |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:03:58 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive. Dan Thats not so much an adhesive as a solvent. It disolves the PVC to a certain depth and then when the two surfaces melt together..the reaction ends and they solidify together |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive. Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply soften the PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent has evaporated. It's an easy test so I should give it a go. Thanks. Tell an Electrical Supply store that you need to see their NMC fittings. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 11-May-15 9:57 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote: I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. If it has a hex area above the thread, perhaps you could plastic-weld some more PVC material up around that to keep it from unscrewing. -- Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value. --Albert Einstein Good idea - unfortunately its cylindrical. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size. (1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move. Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC. That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector and turn it to shear the PVC spline. -- Steve W. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 12-May-15 11:23 AM, Steve W. wrote:
snafu wrote: I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size. (1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move. Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC. That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector and turn it to shear the PVC spline. That's a great idea but there is likely to be 1000 of these made (I should have mentioned that earlier). I'll save the idea for next time I've got a use for it. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning 795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches. It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Tue, 12 May 2015 11:05:25 +0800, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:57 PM, Larry Jaques wrote: On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote: I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. If it has a hex area above the thread, perhaps you could plastic-weld some more PVC material up around that to keep it from unscrewing. Good idea - unfortunately its cylindrical. Then I'd try epoxy. -- Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value. --Albert Einstein |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 12-May-15 9:47 PM, William Graves wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning 795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches. It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet. I'll check it out - gave me an idea - I might look at Sika 291, its a urethane adhesive that I *know* sticks very well to PVC & stainless. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Wed, 13 May 2015 21:34:39 +0800, snafu wrote:
On 12-May-15 9:47 PM, William Graves wrote: On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning 795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches. It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet. I'll check it out - gave me an idea - I might look at Sika 291, its a urethane adhesive that I *know* sticks very well to PVC & stainless. Part of the question here is whether you want to *permanently* lock those threads, or if you want to be able to disassemble the joints in the future. The commercial thread-lockers, including both Loctite acrylics and the commerical epoxy beads used in production, are calibrated to keep a tight joint and to tolerate a lot of vibration, but also to have a low breakaway shear strength that allows the joint to be unscrewed when necessary. Loctite, for example, comes in different degrees of breakaway shear strength for different jobs. If you don't care about future disassembly, ordinary household two-part epoxy should do the job. The amine hardener is pretty active, however; I've never checked to see which plastics are safe with it, but it should be easy to Google. Unlike the epoxy beads made specifically for thread-locking, household epoxies are not made for specific breakaway shear strength. If you do want to be able to disassemble, I'd go for one of the gooey pipe-thread sealants. I've used a liquid Teflon-containing sealant for decades, and it both locks joints tightly and allows joints to be unscrewed. I have them all over my house, in plumbing and (hot water) heating, and they work perfectly. I have some of them on metal-to-PVC threaded joints and I've never noticed any deterioration of the PVC. You application doesn't sound particularly demanding. It should be easy to find some sealant that has decent joint strength without permanently binding the joint, and without destroying your PVC. Read the labels on the tubes in some hardware-store plumbing departments. They'll probably answer the PVC question. -- Ed Huntress |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Tuesday, May 12, 2015 at 2:06:34 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 12-May-15 11:23 AM, Steve W. wrote: snafu wrote: I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size. (1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move. Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC. That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector and turn it to shear the PVC spline. That's a great idea but there is likely to be 1000 of these made (I should have mentioned that earlier). I'll save the idea for next time I've got a use for it. That IS a great idea. You could also 1) score the threads on the connector with a mill, a dremel wheel or even a file - just rough ' em up. 2) make the hole in the pvc just a little bit tight. 3) Apply a PVC solvent cement to soften it a bit, then screw in the connector. The PVC ought to deform into the score marks. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. Chemical Bond: there is an adhesive for bonding ceramic 2 part delivery injection type doser mixes the proper amount as it comes out. The grit s will jam if it unscrews - thus locked. or put sand in the threads. Glass beads etc. Idea? groove , wet grit, assemble, let dry, slam down, grit release, jams threads. Eh? |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 14-May-15 10:36 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-05-11, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? [ ... ] No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive. [ ... ] Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply soften the PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent has evaporated. It's an easy test so I should give it a go. Thanks. It might work better if the threads are rough rother than nice smooth surfaces. Hmm ... from the description, snipped a few posts upthread, the connector sounds like a BNC. And it is common for those to have a D-shaped threaded stem, so it will be non-rotating in a punched hole in sheet metal. If so, then the solvent (not really an adhesive, I think) would soften the hole and allow it to deform partially into the flat of the 'D', so that would likely work. As for the material of the connector -- assuming it is a real BNC, it is likely a copper alloy, plated with either nickel for the low grade ones, or with silver for the really high quality ones. BTW The BNC is also supplied with a square flange with four corner holes for screws, so you could drill and tap the holes for those in the PVC if that would work better for you. Hey Don, it's a large bayonet style connector. It has half a dozen conductors but uses a bayonet fitting about 2x the diameter of a BNC to lock & seal. Judging by the price and the look of the thing I'm pretty sure its a custom made connector housing. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 13-May-15 10:09 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 13 May 2015 21:34:39 +0800, snafu wrote: On 12-May-15 9:47 PM, William Graves wrote: On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning 795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches. It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet. I'll check it out - gave me an idea - I might look at Sika 291, its a urethane adhesive that I *know* sticks very well to PVC & stainless. Part of the question here is whether you want to *permanently* lock those threads, or if you want to be able to disassemble the joints in the future. The commercial thread-lockers, including both Loctite acrylics and the commerical epoxy beads used in production, are calibrated to keep a tight joint and to tolerate a lot of vibration, but also to have a low breakaway shear strength that allows the joint to be unscrewed when necessary. Loctite, for example, comes in different degrees of breakaway shear strength for different jobs. If you don't care about future disassembly, ordinary household two-part epoxy should do the job. The amine hardener is pretty active, however; I've never checked to see which plastics are safe with it, but it should be easy to Google. Unlike the epoxy beads made specifically for thread-locking, household epoxies are not made for specific breakaway shear strength. If you do want to be able to disassemble, I'd go for one of the gooey pipe-thread sealants. I've used a liquid Teflon-containing sealant for decades, and it both locks joints tightly and allows joints to be unscrewed. I have them all over my house, in plumbing and (hot water) heating, and they work perfectly. I have some of them on metal-to-PVC threaded joints and I've never noticed any deterioration of the PVC. You application doesn't sound particularly demanding. It should be easy to find some sealant that has decent joint strength without permanently binding the joint, and without destroying your PVC. Read the labels on the tubes in some hardware-store plumbing departments. They'll probably answer the PVC question. The epoxy is another route worth looking at. We already use an epoxy with the same PVC ans it bonds quite well. It will actually break away some of the PVC if you try to chip it off too fast. The main worry is the connector is a bayonet style and we have concerned end users may over tighten or not push inward when undoing them and force the connector to unscrew rather than disconnect. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
You could always drill a hole in the back barrel and fill it with
the plastic - and solvent. Melt the rod/hole into the threads by melting the small rod. Martin On 5/13/2015 9:27 AM, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, May 12, 2015 at 2:06:34 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 12-May-15 11:23 AM, Steve W. wrote: snafu wrote: I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC. The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf. Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw for retention. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Thanks. Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size. (1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move. Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC. That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector and turn it to shear the PVC spline. That's a great idea but there is likely to be 1000 of these made (I should have mentioned that earlier). I'll save the idea for next time I've got a use for it. That IS a great idea. You could also 1) score the threads on the connector with a mill, a dremel wheel or even a file - just rough ' em up. 2) make the hole in the pvc just a little bit tight. 3) Apply a PVC solvent cement to soften it a bit, then screw in the connector. The PVC ought to deform into the score marks. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 2015-05-14, snafu wrote:
On 14-May-15 10:36 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote: On 2015-05-11, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? [ ... ] Hmm ... from the description, snipped a few posts upthread, the connector sounds like a BNC. And it is common for those to have a D-shaped threaded stem, so it will be non-rotating in a punched hole in sheet metal. If so, then the solvent (not really an adhesive, I think) would soften the hole and allow it to deform partially into the flat of the 'D', so that would likely work. As for the material of the connector -- assuming it is a real BNC, it is likely a copper alloy, plated with either nickel for the low grade ones, or with silver for the really high quality ones. [ ... ] Hey Don, it's a large bayonet style connector. It has half a dozen conductors but uses a bayonet fitting about 2x the diameter of a BNC to lock & seal. Judging by the price and the look of the thing I'm pretty sure its a custom made connector housing. Oh -- multi-pin. Glass (light green) seal holding the pins, or dark brouwn soft rubber? Three bayonet ears instead of two? If so -- it sounds like one of the MS series connectors, which come both with solder cups (and a rubber strainer which is held in place by screwing onto the back of the connector body -- usually with a metal ring inside the shell), and with crimp-on pins, which are inserted from the back of the connector into the soft rubber pin separator/supporter. If glass seal, and bare metal finish, it is for soldering onto the housing of hermetically sealed things like aircraft instruments. But the thread at the back sounds like the ones made for as screw-on back shell -- with or without a cable clamp, depending. If so, that *should* have the rubber strainer through which each wire passes, and which is then squeezed down by the back shell and ring, to make a water-tight connection. They used to be refrred to as "Bendix" connectors, but the line is now produced by Canon -- and some by Deutch and other companies. All at painful prices. :-) If 6 pins, it should have moulded into the rubber separator some number endig nin "-6" -- the number being the diameter of the mounting hole in 16th of an inch IIRC. Maybe 32nds of an inch. I would have to dig back into the catalog to be sure. The whole shell should have a number staring with MS-??? which defines the style and shell size. Good Luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On 17-May-15 9:45 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-05-14, snafu wrote: On 14-May-15 10:36 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote: On 2015-05-11, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? [ ... ] Hmm ... from the description, snipped a few posts upthread, the connector sounds like a BNC. And it is common for those to have a D-shaped threaded stem, so it will be non-rotating in a punched hole in sheet metal. If so, then the solvent (not really an adhesive, I think) would soften the hole and allow it to deform partially into the flat of the 'D', so that would likely work. As for the material of the connector -- assuming it is a real BNC, it is likely a copper alloy, plated with either nickel for the low grade ones, or with silver for the really high quality ones. [ ... ] Hey Don, it's a large bayonet style connector. It has half a dozen conductors but uses a bayonet fitting about 2x the diameter of a BNC to lock & seal. Judging by the price and the look of the thing I'm pretty sure its a custom made connector housing. Oh -- multi-pin. Glass (light green) seal holding the pins, or dark brouwn soft rubber? Three bayonet ears instead of two? If so -- it sounds like one of the MS series connectors, which come both with solder cups (and a rubber strainer which is held in place by screwing onto the back of the connector body -- usually with a metal ring inside the shell), and with crimp-on pins, which are inserted from the back of the connector into the soft rubber pin separator/supporter. If glass seal, and bare metal finish, it is for soldering onto the housing of hermetically sealed things like aircraft instruments. But the thread at the back sounds like the ones made for as screw-on back shell -- with or without a cable clamp, depending. If so, that *should* have the rubber strainer through which each wire passes, and which is then squeezed down by the back shell and ring, to make a water-tight connection. They used to be refrred to as "Bendix" connectors, but the line is now produced by Canon -- and some by Deutch and other companies. All at painful prices. :-) If 6 pins, it should have moulded into the rubber separator some number endig nin "-6" -- the number being the diameter of the mounting hole in 16th of an inch IIRC. Maybe 32nds of an inch. I would have to dig back into the catalog to be sure. The whole shell should have a number staring with MS-??? which defines the style and shell size. Good Luck, DoN. No its not the Amphenol MS series. It's a 2 pin bayonet with a 1/2NF threaded back end. The internal connector parts look like the small Lemo stuff. It comes with flying leads potted in to the back end. |
Thread locking - Stainless steel into PVC
On Tue, 12 May 2015 06:47:07 -0700, William Graves
wrote: On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the PVC to prevent unscrewing? Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning 795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches. It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet. 3M 5200 is about as good as it gets and is what Id recommend using. I swear that stuff will stick moonbeams and unicorn farts together. Seriously good ****. Taking it apart...that aint happening without lots and lots of swearing, heat gun, torch, big wrenches and vises.... http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4314622&rt=rud Comes in tiny tubes, big tubes etc etc and its available all over. Might want to read this http://www.bindingsource.com/images/...tsBrochure.pdf |
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