I installed a RO system. I opted for an American made 5-stage system
after reading flaming reviews on the Chinese units. This unit oozed
quality, top quality fittings, tubes and components, a 5 year warrantee
and no Chinglesh instructions. And, only one trip to the hardware store
for a "T" not in the kit. The filters, two ten micron carbon block and
a 5 micron sediment filter and one more small carbon filter after the
tank. They need to be replaced every 6-12 months depending on feed
quality. All the filters are about $30, I don't know anbout the membrane.

The output is very nice! I like the taste though it seems a little
flat. My ice from the ice maker isn't clear like the manufacturer
promised...I knew it wouldn't be, but it is less opaque.

All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?

On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 6:05:48 AM UTC-5, Karl Townsend wrote:

All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese can't remember which). So we go through lots
of bottled water.

Installing a water softener is also good because the water down line will be easier on the appliances than water there straight from tap.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 04:15:25 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

I installed a RO system. I opted for an American made 5-stage system
after reading flaming reviews on the Chinese units. This unit oozed
quality, top quality fittings, tubes and components, a 5 year warrantee
and no Chinglesh instructions. And, only one trip to the hardware store
for a "T" not in the kit. The filters, two ten micron carbon block and
a 5 micron sediment filter and one more small carbon filter after the
tank. They need to be replaced every 6-12 months depending on feed
quality. All the filters are about $30, I don't know anbout the membrane.

All or each? 5-filter kit for $30, or $150?


The output is very nice! I like the taste though it seems a little
flat. My ice from the ice maker isn't clear like the manufacturer
promised...I knew it wouldn't be, but it is less opaque.

RO strips almost all minerals from the water, too, so it will be flat.
I strongly suggest that you take extra minerals now to supplement your
diet. Liquid mineral formula can be added directly to water if you
stir it.


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

ROI less than one year, to be sure.

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 04:15:25 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

I installed a RO system. I opted for an American made 5-stage system
after reading flaming reviews on the Chinese units. This unit oozed
quality, top quality fittings, tubes and components, a 5 year warrantee
and no Chinglesh instructions. And, only one trip to the hardware store
for a "T" not in the kit. The filters, two ten micron carbon block and
a 5 micron sediment filter and one more small carbon filter after the
tank. They need to be replaced every 6-12 months depending on feed
quality. All the filters are about $30, I don't know anbout the membrane.

The output is very nice! I like the taste though it seems a little
flat. My ice from the ice maker isn't clear like the manufacturer
promised...I knew it wouldn't be, but it is less opaque.

All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Regarding the flatness, that can be lack of gases or lack of minerals.
Try putting some in a jar with a tight-fitting lid, refrigerate it,
and then shake it up really well to aerate it. Then try drinking it.

This is the same treatment often recommended for water that's been
boiled for purification. That will degas the water, too. If it's just
the result of being degased, aerating it should perk it up.

--
Ed Huntress

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

"Larry Jaques"

Prior to building this, I think I need to work
on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often
than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what?
Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick
unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more,
methinks.) I use copper plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves
electrodes.

Burn through a lot? Then try keeping the filler in
contact
with the weld puddle rather than dipping it like
usual.
Pipe weldors running a root pass call this walking
the
cup and pulling the string. A thin flow of filler
will come
off the end of the rod and follow the position of
the
electrode. It's worth trying.... current control
is important
too. Do you have that option? If not, then this
trick may
be of use to you.

Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!
Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.



Basically a store bought smaller version of my system, but without the
UV treatment.
Looking at UV LEDs at the moment, thinking that I could make two new
units using a few different spectrum versions, the life increase and
lower power would be a plus.

The unit I have works but uses replaceable bulbs that are not cheap.


--
Steve W.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

They are hellish hard on water _ when you pay for both water supply
and wastewater disposal. they get expensive to operate. Definitely
not a good solution where you have water rationing.

On 2/12/2015 4:24 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g

he tank has male 3/8 pipe threads. Of course I bought 10 rolls of
Teflon tape at Harbor Freight and It took a half hour to find one!

On 2/12/2015 4:24 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.
It's a famioly owned company, many generations (indentured servitude).
That goes a long way with me! Any problems. I call Grandpa.


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti


I know a guy that TiGs burial urns from thin, thin metal. He has a
special low-power unit and a real steady hand.

On 2/12/2015 5:46 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!
Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression.
The "T" I bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp. Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.



Basically a store bought smaller version of my system, but without the
UV treatment.
Looking at UV LEDs at the moment, thinking that I could make two new
units using a few different spectrum versions, the life increase and
lower power would be a plus.

The unit I have works but uses replaceable bulbs that are not cheap.




How bad is the biological issue? Is there no other way?

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 17:21:09 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques"

Prior to building this, I think I need to work
on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often
than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what?
Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick
unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more,
methinks.) I use copper plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves
electrodes.

Burn through a lot? Then try keeping the filler in
contact
with the weld puddle rather than dipping it like
usual.
Pipe weldors running a root pass call this walking
the
cup and pulling the string. A thin flow of filler
will come
off the end of the rod and follow the position of
the
electrode. It's worth trying.... current control
is important
too. Do you have that option? If not, then this
trick may
be of use to you.

No option. There's a rotary amperage control, on/off switch, and the
flow control on the gas.

I'll try leaving the filler in there more. I just got some more thin
rod at ACE, of all places. And I left a ****load at Gunners. sigh
What I really need is more practice. I need to line up my welding
projects and just go to it for a couple days some weekend, huh? Ayup.
Thanks for the advice, Phil.

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 22:09:29 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 4:24 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g

he tank has male 3/8 pipe threads. Of course I bought 10 rolls of
Teflon tape at Harbor Freight and It took a half hour to find one!

As with the ten-roll bundles of black elec tape, I strew them around
the house/shop/truck in pairs. That way, when I find one, I'll know
the other is hiding close by. Try that.


--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 17:21:09 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques"

Prior to building this, I think I need to work
on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often
than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what?
Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick
unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more,
methinks.) I use copper plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves
electrodes.

Burn through a lot? Then try keeping the filler in
contact
with the weld puddle rather than dipping it like
usual.
Pipe weldors running a root pass call this walking
the
cup and pulling the string. A thin flow of filler
will come
off the end of the rod and follow the position of
the
electrode. It's worth trying.... current control
is important
too. Do you have that option? If not, then this
trick may
be of use to you.

No option. There's a rotary amperage control, on/off switch, and
the
flow control on the gas.

I'll try leaving the filler in there more. I just got some more
thin
rod at ACE, of all places. And I left a ****load at Gunners.
sigh
What I really need is more practice. I need to line up my welding
projects and just go to it for a couple days some weekend, huh?
Ayup.
Thanks for the advice, Phil.

The instructor had me run TIG beads down a strip of sheet steel until
I caught on. Then tees in 0.025" wall 4130 tubing cutoffs from
Aircraft Spruce weren't that hard to do.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...bargainbag.php

The box they sent me included some solid rod.

I fishtailed both ends of the pieces I took to class on the mill and
sawed each welded tee off close, to make use of all the fishtails and
to inspect the inside of the weld.

-jsw

On 2/12/2015 9:19 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:46 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!
Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html



Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression.
The "T" I bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp. Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.



Basically a store bought smaller version of my system, but without the
UV treatment.
Looking at UV LEDs at the moment, thinking that I could make two new
units using a few different spectrum versions, the life increase and
lower power would be a plus.

The unit I have works but uses replaceable bulbs that are not cheap.




How bad is the biological issue? Is there no other way?
Well water needs UV often. Range or ranch or Farm or flood trickles
down bio haz and can cause real issues.

Martin

On 2/12/2015 8:23 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

They are hellish hard on water _ when you pay for both water supply
and wastewater disposal. they get expensive to operate. Definitely
not a good solution where you have water rationing.

It depends on the volume of waste water. Some units are adjustable.
One issue is do you want solid waste to deal with or to flush it out.

I have a large one for making DI/RO water for my salt water fish.
When you have fish that run under $100 each there are decisions.
The waste water is just worse than the input water unless it is really
bad. Mine is growing grass. And the grass likes it.

The one in the house for cooking and drinking is a RO unit I'm thinking
of adding a DI to it as ions are bad as well. They find something to
attach to as it is used. It is basically just a resin 'filter' and the
ions attack the resin.

Some of the fish tank ones - we fill large containers and draw as
needed. My use is about 2 gallons a day. I have about a 5 day reserve
and 60 gallons of RO.

I have 4 tanks in the greenhouse. Two are for watering in the
greenhouse and two are for the fish. All four are used as thermal
tanks holding the high temp during the day and radiating all night.
Saves on heater costs.

You can get DI units to add on the end of your Ro units at fish dealers
and on line salt water fish stores. I can point to one if needed.

Martin

Martin

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 22:40:17 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 8:23 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

They are hellish hard on water _ when you pay for both water supply
and wastewater disposal. they get expensive to operate. Definitely
not a good solution where you have water rationing.

It depends on the volume of waste water. Some units are adjustable.
One issue is do you want solid waste to deal with or to flush it out.

I have a large one for making DI/RO water for my salt water fish.
When you have fish that run under $100 each there are decisions.
The waste water is just worse than the input water unless it is really
bad. Mine is growing grass. And the grass likes it.

The one in the house for cooking and drinking is a RO unit I'm thinking
of adding a DI to it as ions are bad as well. They find something to
attach to as it is used. It is basically just a resin 'filter' and the
ions attack the resin.

Some of the fish tank ones - we fill large containers and draw as
needed. My use is about 2 gallons a day. I have about a 5 day reserve
and 60 gallons of RO.

I have 4 tanks in the greenhouse. Two are for watering in the
greenhouse and two are for the fish. All four are used as thermal
tanks holding the high temp during the day and radiating all night.
Saves on heater costs.

You can get DI units to add on the end of your Ro units at fish dealers
and on line salt water fish stores. I can point to one if needed.

Martin

Martin
The RO concentrators used as the first stage in maple syrup
production make lots of nice pure water - which a local curling club
uses for making their ice-----

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 23:06:54 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
What I really need is more practice. I need to line up my welding
projects and just go to it for a couple days some weekend, huh?
Ayup.
Thanks for the advice, Phil.

The instructor had me run TIG beads down a strip of sheet steel until
I caught on. Then tees in 0.025" wall 4130 tubing cutoffs from
Aircraft Spruce weren't that hard to do.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...bargainbag.php

I successfully did this on aluminum cans at Glenn's, just before I
bought the welder. The power knob was barely off the lower stop.

I guess I'll try it at lower and lower power levels until I get it
right. I have some .125 sheets of stainless to put on the front of
the Big Wheel hand truck to protect the tires from boxes and cargo,
but I think I'll practice elsewhere first.


The box they sent me included some solid rod.

I fishtailed both ends of the pieces I took to class on the mill and
sawed each welded tee off close, to make use of all the fishtails and
to inspect the inside of the weld.

I'm not tracking that last paragraph at all, except for the weld
inspection.

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 2/12/2015 9:19 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:46 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!
Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?

Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html



Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression.
The "T" I bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp. Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.


Basically a store bought smaller version of my system, but without the
UV treatment.
Looking at UV LEDs at the moment, thinking that I could make two new
units using a few different spectrum versions, the life increase and
lower power would be a plus.

The unit I have works but uses replaceable bulbs that are not cheap.



How bad is the biological issue? Is there no other way?
Well water needs UV often. Range or ranch or Farm or flood trickles
down bio haz and can cause real issues.

Martin

In this case it's well water. Bio load is high enough that it's an
issue. You basically have 3 options, UV, Chlorination or distillation.
UV works well for my system. I do drop some chlorine in the well once or
twice a year, that kills off the crud in the well and the inlet piping.
A chlorine injector in front of the filtration would also work BUT
chlorine has to be in the mix for a set time for it to be effective.
That would mean one more tank for my system. UV also needs contact time
but it's much less and easier to implement.

--
Steve W.

On 2/12/2015 10:26 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 2/12/2015 9:19 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:46 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!
Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html




Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression.
The "T" I bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp. Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.



Basically a store bought smaller version of my system, but without the
UV treatment.
Looking at UV LEDs at the moment, thinking that I could make two new
units using a few different spectrum versions, the life increase and
lower power would be a plus.

The unit I have works but uses replaceable bulbs that are not cheap.




How bad is the biological issue? Is there no other way?
Well water needs UV often. Range or ranch or Farm or flood trickles
down bio haz and can cause real issues.

Martin
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=BRSTV

This is the top level of BRSTV youtube - Good company - there are pages
and pages of their stuff - look at the pictures and find a RO/DI or RO
system and see the 75gallon / day unit - there are others. Great one
came out today on carbon and how it lasts with use.

You can buy replacements there and single / dual units.

They sell upgrade units to boost volume.

Martin

On Saturday, February 14, 2015 at 12:09:34 AM UTC-5, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 2/12/2015 10:26 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 2/12/2015 9:19 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:46 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!
Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html




Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression.
The "T" I bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp. Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.



Basically a store bought smaller version of my system, but without the
UV treatment.
Looking at UV LEDs at the moment, thinking that I could make two new
units using a few different spectrum versions, the life increase and
lower power would be a plus.

The unit I have works but uses replaceable bulbs that are not cheap.




How bad is the biological issue? Is there no other way?
Well water needs UV often. Range or ranch or Farm or flood trickles
down bio haz and can cause real issues.

Martin
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=BRSTV

This is the top level of BRSTV youtube - Good company - there are pages
and pages of their stuff - look at the pictures and find a RO/DI or RO
system and see the 75gallon / day unit - there are others. Great one
came out today on carbon and how it lasts with use.

You can buy replacements there and single / dual units.

They sell upgrade units to boost volume.

I was looking at Chinese suppliers of Solar Water purifiers. I guess there aren't that many.

On 2/12/2015 11:40 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:

I have a large one for making DI/RO water for my salt water fish.
When you have fish that run under $100 each there are decisions.
The waste water is just worse than the input water unless it is really
bad. Mine is growing grass. And the grass likes it.

The one in the house for cooking and drinking is a RO unit I'm thinking
of adding a DI to it as ions are bad as well. They find something to
attach to as it is used. It is basically just a resin 'filter' and the
ions attack the resin.

Some of the fish tank ones - we fill large containers and draw as
needed. My use is about 2 gallons a day. I have about a 5 day reserve
and 60 gallons of RO.

I have 4 tanks in the greenhouse. Two are for watering in the
greenhouse and two are for the fish. All four are used as thermal
tanks holding the high temp during the day and radiating all night.
Saves on heater costs.

You can get DI units to add on the end of your Ro units at fish dealers
and on line salt water fish stores. I can point to one if needed.

Martin

Martin


You made me appreciate my city's water, as bad tasting as it is. And
REALY appreciate Cleveland water when I had it. Most of us just take
water for granted, thanks for the different perspective.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The "T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Gunner

The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the 0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

-jsw

On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Gunner

The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the 0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

-jsw

Crom...what size was it? 1/16"?


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Gunner

The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the 0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

CollisionS, plural? Time for new glasses, old timer! g

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 02:34:26 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

I just realized that I was using an 1/8" electrode when I TIGged that
thinwall tubing. Oops, I forgot to exchange it for a thin electrode.
No wonder it was hotter. Yup, I need practice.


Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Sounds like my welds. g Hey, I read that you talked with him a
few weeks ago. Did Lee have any kind of ETA for heading up the coast?


The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the 0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

-jsw

Crom...what size was it? 1/16"?

Which, the 0.050" stainless sheet? It was 0.050", mon. vbg

--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description
of a happy state in this world.
-- John Locke

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells
at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from
oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers
like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is
it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I
love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a
fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Gunner

The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the
0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds
aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

CollisionS, plural? Time for new glasses, old timer! g

Where can I buy glasses that let me see under snow?

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 02:34:26 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

.........

The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the
0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds
aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

-jsw

Crom...what size was it? 1/16"?

Which, the 0.050" stainless sheet? It was 0.050", mon. vbg

One sheet may have been 0.055" and the other 0.058", IIRC. I'm not
hiking way out back through the deep snow just to check.

The electrodes are 308L-16, either 3/32" or 1/16", I don't remember
from 10 years ago and still have a few of both. I may have used 3/32"
for the lap joints and 1/16" for the butt welds.

The same dealer sold me 312 to weld the stainless pipe rims and hubs
to the mild steel spokes of the wider wheels I put on my hydraulic
lift to use it on dirt. The pipe weldor friend who gave me the cutoffs
didn't have any scrap stainless flat stock.
-jsw

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 06:40:10 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 02:34:26 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

I just realized that I was using an 1/8" electrode when I TIGged that
thinwall tubing. Oops, I forgot to exchange it for a thin electrode.
No wonder it was hotter. Yup, I need practice.


Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Sounds like my welds. g Hey, I read that you talked with him a
few weeks ago. Did Lee have any kind of ETA for heading up the coast?

I was in his shop Friday. I didnt think to ask. But Ive got to finish
a big oven next week so will ask.


The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the 0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

-jsw

Crom...what size was it? 1/16"?

Which, the 0.050" stainless sheet? It was 0.050", mon. vbg

Sigh...smart ass..the stick electrode size...?

If you were using stick to weld that thin sheet..you were doing Good!!

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 9:01:10 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Gunner

The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the 0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

CollisionS, plural? Time for new glasses, old timer! g

If seeing the computer screen is difficult, hit the CTRL button and the + button at the same time.

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 06:40:10 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 02:34:26 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
m...
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled
water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who
sells at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from
oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one
part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression.
The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has
anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers
like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall
tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/
Is it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I
love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a
fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

I just realized that I was using an 1/8" electrode when I TIGged
that
thinwall tubing. Oops, I forgot to exchange it for a thin
electrode.
No wonder it was hotter. Yup, I need practice.


Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Sounds like my welds. g Hey, I read that you talked with him a
few weeks ago. Did Lee have any kind of ETA for heading up the
coast?

I was in his shop Friday. I didnt think to ask. But Ive got to
finish
a big oven next week so will ask.


The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the
0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds
aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

-jsw

Crom...what size was it? 1/16"?

Which, the 0.050" stainless sheet? It was 0.050", mon. vbg

Sigh...smart ass..the stick electrode size...?

If you were using stick to weld that thin sheet..you were doing
Good!!

Gunner

I welded many short beads at widely separated places, like doing
autobody. The loader bucket didn't have to be watertight. The flat
seams warped anyway.

My machine is a first-edition Lincoln Square Wave 175 which I took to
welding class so the instructor could set it and then show me.

The school shop had newer 185s which weren't nicer enough to make me
trade in mine, which had been a tradein on a 175 Pro. I couldn't TIG
weld aluminum any better with the 185 anyhow.

-jsw

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 08:05:30 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 06:40:10 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 02:34:26 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:
Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Sounds like my welds. g Hey, I read that you talked with him a
few weeks ago. Did Lee have any kind of ETA for heading up the coast?

I was in his shop Friday. I didnt think to ask. But Ive got to finish
a big oven next week so will ask.

Ah, you're in chef's school? Whatcha bakin'?
Titanium wrapped blintzes?


The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the 0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

-jsw

Crom...what size was it? 1/16"?

Which, the 0.050" stainless sheet? It was 0.050", mon. vbg

Sigh...smart ass..the stick electrode size...?




If you were using stick to weld that thin sheet..you were doing Good!!

Yeah, that would be good, wouldn't it?

--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description
of a happy state in this world.
-- John Locke

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 09:41:35 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 22:13:55 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 13:24:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 10:58:54 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 2/12/2015 5:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:


All in all, I would recommend it. No more bottled water!

Tom, We have poor quality water, iron and magnesium (or
manganese
can't remember which). So we go through lots of bottled water.

What are the costs on the unit you installed?


Here's the system I used:

http://www.reverseosmosis.com/produc...is-System.html

It might be a fine unit, but you bought it from a store who sells
at
double retail, I'm afraid. Well, you Brush Billionaires from
oHEEo
can afford it, I'm sure.


Might not be the cheapest but I'm happy. I only needed one part
because
my faucet inlet isn't 1/2" pipe thread but 3/8" compression. The
"T" I
bought was 3/8" male comp. x 3/8" female comp. x 1/4" female
comp.
Other than that I needed a roll of Teflon tape.

Why? They're compression fittings. g


This just in: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365213851003594552/
Tactical Jogging Baby Carriage

Questions: To make one, what kind of frame do I need? Has anyone
worked with bicycle wheels? I'm wondering how to put a straight
axle
between two parallel wheels for a garden cart (not this tactical
joy)
but haven't worked with bikes for decades and decades. Do they
utilize standard ball-bearings, or do they have tapered rollers
like
auto front ends?

Prior to building this, I think I need to work on my thinwall tube
TIGging. I tend to burn through them more often than not. :/ Is
it
just a matter of turning down the heat, or what? Remember, I'm
working with a scratch-start HF 135A TIG/Stick unit. (Which I
love,
but would love a high-freq start more, methinks.) I use copper
plated
steel TIG rod for the scratch. Saves electrodes.

I had to tig some .065 wall 1" SS pipe last weekend for a
fitting
on one of the boats. (Mast support)...it was...an interesting
experience. I resorted to my .040 electrodes and the smallest SS
wire
I had..1/16" inch...and pulse.

Still didnt look pretty..but it holds...but it sure as **** aint
pretty.

Gunner

The dealer steered me to stainless stick electrodes to weld the
0.050"
stainless sheet for the bucket of my front end loader. My welds
aren't
pretty but none of them broke in collisions that bent the bucket.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...lectrodes.aspx

CollisionS, plural? Time for new glasses, old timer! g

Where can I buy glasses that let me see under snow?

Denial Stage, eh?

--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description
of a happy state in this world.
-- John Locke