Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Minor Gloat

I often cruse through the local scrap yard and not find anything that I want. But yesterday there was a console and I striped out of it some useful stuff.

A power strip about six feet long with an outlet about every 10 inches. It will replace the power strip behind my bench that has about half as many outlets.

Another power strip with nine outlets and one switch. Short only about 20 inches long.

A bunch of power cords with plugs.

A temperature controller.

A 24 volt very small power supply.

A panel with a dozen dpdt center off toggle switches.

A bunch of terminal strips.

And not part of the console, a electric heater assembly from a heat pump and a nice sized box for controlling three model trains with three reostats and toggle switches.

All told 35 lbs of stuff. They asked $9 ,but I gave them $10. It will all even out eventually. Not earth shattering, but I hate to buy stuff like that retail.

Topping out the day, I got a package from China with a dozen 5 gram tubes of diamond lapping paste. It was just over $10.


Dan
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Those extra long power strips are extremely useful to have on your big
bench or desk.

i
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On Saturday, January 3, 2015 10:19:29 AM UTC-5, Ignoramus18163 wrote:
Those extra long power strips are extremely useful to have on your big
bench or desk.

i


My bench is not all that big, but the current power strip only has 6 outlets. The new one has 11 outlets in the same length. More is not always better, but in this case it is.

Dan
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Hey Dan,

Put altogether, that's running into a MAJOR gloat !!

Mind if I ask where you ordered the diamond paste? URL available?

Thank you.

Happy New Year.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Sat, 3 Jan 2015 06:59:49 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I often cruse through the local scrap yard and not find anything that I want. But yesterday there was a console and I striped out of it some useful stuff.

A power strip about six feet long with an outlet about every 10 inches. It will replace the power strip behind my bench that has about half as many outlets.

Another power strip with nine outlets and one switch. Short only about 20 inches long.

A bunch of power cords with plugs.

A temperature controller.

A 24 volt very small power supply.

A panel with a dozen dpdt center off toggle switches.

A bunch of terminal strips.

And not part of the console, a electric heater assembly from a heat pump and a nice sized box for controlling three model trains with three reostats and toggle switches.

All told 35 lbs of stuff. They asked $9 ,but I gave them $10. It will all even out eventually. Not earth shattering, but I hate to buy stuff like that retail.

Topping out the day, I got a package from China with a dozen 5 gram tubes of diamond lapping paste. It was just over $10.


Dan

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On Saturday, January 3, 2015 4:38:09 PM UTC-5, Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey Dan,


Mind if I ask where you ordered the diamond paste? URL available?

Thank you.

Happy New Year.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Ebay item # 191259749827

mrshop128 is the vendors name.

You are welcome.

Dan


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On Sat, 03 Jan 2015 16:38:04 -0500, Brian Lawson
wrote:

Hey Dan,

Put altogether, that's running into a MAJOR gloat !!

Mind if I ask where you ordered the diamond paste? URL available?


eBay vendors have it for a buck or two, including shipping.
Goto www.ebay.com and search for "diamond lapping paste"
http://tinyurl.com/lc7qc6z Look for the 6pc sets, and watch those
larger lots going for a penny. You'll often pay more for them, but
some escape for the single penny, delivered halfway around the world
to you. It's crazy great.
13pc of 5g syringes of varying grits, $10.50 w/ free shipping.


I got another Chinese Connection package in the mail today, too. Ten
15w LED spotlights with E27 (medium light bulb) base for $24.53, dlvd.
They're beautifully bright, and 2 are now adorning my motion/security
light over the front walk and one is lighting my living room bookcase.
50 other shapes and sizes of LEDs are on the way, too. Some T10
wedgies of varying SMD-counts and sizes (2106, 3528, and 5050), and
some T10 bases with pigtails for stray work. All are 5500-6500k in
color, nice and white. Prices were $0.04-0.99 each. The funny thing
is that some were running $2.29 apiece, but I picked up a lot of 10
for $2.99, with free shipping. I love it.

(snipped Dan's nice gloat)


Here's some other fun stuff from China:

10pc 5k 1/2W pots for $3.19 wfs (with free shipping)
10pc 10k 1/2W pots for $3.19 wfs
10pc knobs for above pots for $0.99 wfs
New 30v 5a bench power supply for $51.99 wfs (US vendor)
2pc aluminum carabiner water bottle clip w/ compass $0.99 wfs
USB multimeter tester $1.25 wfs
EN-EL9 battery for my Nikon $6.35 wfs (US vendor)
21w white LED ceiling light fixture $17.16 wfs
14 function bicycle repair tool/chain brkr $4.29 wfs
http://tinyurl.com/nnkyqtc 3 hole knotting tool (tent holddown rope
sliding clip)

(Merry Christmas to Larry from Larry)

--
All I want is a warm bed,
a kind word, and
U N L I M I T E D P O W E R !
--anon
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On Saturday, January 3, 2015 6:11:00 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:

eBay vendors have it for a buck or two, including shipping.
Goto www.ebay.com and search for "diamond lapping paste"
http://tinyurl.com/lc7qc6z Look for the 6pc sets, and watch those
larger lots going for a penny. You'll often pay more for them, but
some escape for the single penny, delivered halfway around the world
to you. It's crazy great.
13pc of 5g syringes of varying grits, $10.50 w/ free shipping.


(Merry Christmas to Larry from Larry)



I might have been able to have paid a little less. I just bought from the lowest price vendor in the buy it now option. I paid $10.44 for 12 syringes.

Dan

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wrote:
On Saturday, January 3, 2015 6:11:00 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:

eBay vendors have it for a buck or two, including shipping.
Goto
www.ebay.com and search for "diamond lapping paste"
http://tinyurl.com/lc7qc6z Look for the 6pc sets, and watch those
larger lots going for a penny. You'll often pay more for them, but
some escape for the single penny, delivered halfway around the world
to you. It's crazy great.
13pc of 5g syringes of varying grits, $10.50 w/ free shipping.


(Merry Christmas to Larry from Larry)



I might have been able to have paid a little less. I just bought
from the lowest price vendor in the buy it now option. I paid $10.44
for 12 syringes.

Dan


I bought the same dozen from the same seller . Dan , I have a bearing race
that's pressed into a hole in a Harley 3 speed case . That race was
perfectly fitted to the clutch gear before I pressed it into the case . Now
it's out of round ... thus the need to lap the race . I'm wondering if it's
worth the trouble of peressing it back out to check the hole and the race .
Might be that the race is perfect and the hole is out of round , might be
variations in the thickness of the race . Either way it's unacceptable as-is
with OOR .0015" total
Should I decide to lap it in place , what material do you suggest for the
lap ? I have on hand lead , wheel weight material , aluminum , and several
grades of steel . I can cast anything but the steel directly onto a mandrel
for machining to maintain concentricity - I will be using a guide bushing on
the other side of the case to maintain alignment . I started an adjustable
lap set several years ago , but it never really worked out like I wanted . I
did learn a lot though !
--
Snag


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On Saturday, January 3, 2015 6:41:38 PM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:


. Dan , I have a bearing race
that's pressed into a hole in a Harley 3 speed case . That race was
perfectly fitted to the clutch gear before I pressed it into the case . Now
it's out of round ... thus the need to lap the race . I'm wondering if it's
worth the trouble of peressing it back out to check the hole and the race .
Might be that the race is perfect and the hole is out of round , might be
variations in the thickness of the race . Either way it's unacceptable as-is
with OOR .0015" total
Should I decide to lap it in place , what material do you suggest for the
lap ? I have on hand lead , wheel weight material , aluminum , and several
grades of steel . I can cast anything but the steel directly onto a mandrel
for machining to maintain concentricity - I will be using a guide bushing on
the other side of the case to maintain alignment . I started an adjustable
lap set several years ago , but it never really worked out like I wanted .. I
did learn a lot though !
--
Snag


I would press the race out of the housing. The race is not likely to have been out of round or have variations in the thickness. So I suspect the hole is not round.


I am not an expert on laps and lapping. What I read is that the lap must be softer than the metal being lapped. That is so the abrasive embeds in the lap and cuts the metal. So what is the Harley case made of? I suspect aluminum so you would want something softer than aluminum. So lead or wheel weight material. I think most wheel weights are now Zinc and could be too hard. That assumes you are lapping the hole and not the race. If you lap the hole , you may need to use locktite compound when you put the race back in. I am pretty sure they have a compound for seating bearings. yes, they have several retaining compounds.

Dan



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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Here's some other fun stuff from China:
...


My package today:
http://www.amazon.com/CR-Magnetics-R.../dp/B006K3O1MY

I bought the amber ones, to put on heater thermostats. These two turn
on dimly at 0.4~ 0.5A AC.


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On Sat, 3 Jan 2015 18:38:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
Here's some other fun stuff from China:
...


My package today:
http://www.amazon.com/CR-Magnetics-R.../dp/B006K3O1MY

I bought the amber ones, to put on heater thermostats. These two turn
on dimly at 0.4~ 0.5A AC.


Too bad you have to shut off the power/remove the cord/disassemble the
circuit to install those. Handy gadgets, tho.

--
All I want is a warm bed,
a kind word, and
U N L I M I T E D P O W E R !
--anon
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 3 Jan 2015 18:38:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
Here's some other fun stuff from China:
...


My package today:
http://www.amazon.com/CR-Magnetics-R.../dp/B006K3O1MY

I bought the amber ones, to put on heater thermostats. These two
turn
on dimly at 0.4~ 0.5A AC.


Too bad you have to shut off the power/remove the cord/disassemble
the
circuit to install those. Handy gadgets, tho.


That's hardly an unreasonable burden for someone who spent his career
building and repairing electronics. This is a semi-permanent
installation until I need them elsewhere. I had been using a Fluke
clamp-on current probe extended upstairs from the breaker box with an
extension cord but it's a tripping hazard, and the Fluke is too
expensive to suggest buying new.

-jsw


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Default Minor Gloat

On 1/3/2015 6:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Here's some other fun stuff from China:
...


My package today:
http://www.amazon.com/CR-Magnetics-R.../dp/B006K3O1MY

I bought the amber ones, to put on heater thermostats. These two turn
on dimly at 0.4~ 0.5A AC.



So, the LED's show when the heaters are on. Why do you want to know
that? Just curious.

Bob
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"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
On 1/3/2015 6:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Here's some other fun stuff from China:
...


My package today:
http://www.amazon.com/CR-Magnetics-R.../dp/B006K3O1MY

I bought the amber ones, to put on heater thermostats. These two
turn
on dimly at 0.4~ 0.5A AC.



So, the LED's show when the heaters are on. Why do you want to know
that? Just curious.

Bob


The behavior of the thermostats isn't obvious. The bathroom one has a
shutoff near fully CCW that makes no sound, so I can't tell if it's
off or set low, or couldn't until this morning. It appears to have an
internal anticipator which causes the room temperature to slowly
stairstep up over an hour or so; at first it shuts off at 60, but an
hour later it's still cycling and the room is at 68.
http://homerepair.about.com/od/heati...nticipator.htm
Maybe the old idea of setting the thermostat to 80F to make a cold
house warm up faster had some merit?

I'm datalogging the current to other one and room temperature, with no
other heat source. So far it looks like a single ~700W radiator can
hold the house at 50F. Outside is at 3F now and dropping. Tomorrow
morning I should know if that radiator is an adequate automatic backup
to the wood stove and how much it costs to run. Last winter the
weather warmed before I completed the datalogging setup.
-jsw




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