I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.

--
If government were a product,
selling it would be illegal.
--P.J. O'Rourke

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

Did in a "leaning tower of power" 225 in a valiant that way once - not
using solvent - just chiseling the crap off the rockers to adjust the
valves. We drained and changed the oil after, but didn't get enough of
the crap out. Brother had bought the car - don't think it EVER had an
oil change - - -

Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

If you really want to only have to do it once, drain the oil and replace it
with sodium silicate solution (60% ss/water), then let the engine run at a
high idle for about five minutes.

Lloyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

If you really want to only have to do it once, drain the oil and replace it
with sodium silicate solution (60% ss/water), then let the engine run at a
high idle for about five minutes.

Ha!

On Fri, 02 May 2014 15:04:06 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

That's probably a lot more common than actual tearing of the filter.
But the plug up results in a complete bypass, so that crap gets into
the bearings either way.


Did in a "leaning tower of power" 225 in a valiant that way once - not

Excellent old motor. Ditto the 300cid Ford I-6. (But I loved my Ford
302 V-8s, lemme tell ya.)


using solvent - just chiseling the crap off the rockers to adjust the
valves. We drained and changed the oil after, but didn't get enough of
the crap out. Brother had bought the car - don't think it EVER had an
oil change - - -

That's the history of the smallblocks I'd seen early on in my career.
"Oil change? What's that? I fill when it drops down on the stick.
Isn't that enough?"

--
If government were a product,
selling it would be illegal.
--P.J. O'Rourke

On Fri, 02 May 2014 19:00:46 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 15:04:06 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

That's probably a lot more common than actual tearing of the filter.
But the plug up results in a complete bypass, so that crap gets into
the bearings either way.
Nope, with the filter screen plugged NOTHING gets to the bearings -
almost certain, instant, catastrophic failure.

Did in a "leaning tower of power" 225 in a valiant that way once - not

Excellent old motor. Ditto the 300cid Ford I-6. (But I loved my Ford
302 V-8s, lemme tell ya.)


using solvent - just chiseling the crap off the rockers to adjust the
valves. We drained and changed the oil after, but didn't get enough of
the crap out. Brother had bought the car - don't think it EVER had an
oil change - - -

That's the history of the smallblocks I'd seen early on in my career.
"Oil change? What's that? I fill when it drops down on the stick.
Isn't that enough?"

The rocker cover was like a gravel pit. I wasn't there when he bought
it. We put in another used engine, and he drove it for a while. Then
my younger brother got it, redid the engine with split exhaust, big 2
bbl carb, planed head, port job etc. Did his best to beat what I had
done with my 170 a few years earlier. I was out of the country so
never saw it run.

On Fri, 02 May 2014 22:40:34 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 19:00:46 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 15:04:06 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

That's probably a lot more common than actual tearing of the filter.
But the plug up results in a complete bypass, so that crap gets into
the bearings either way.
Nope, with the filter screen plugged NOTHING gets to the bearings -
almost certain, instant, catastrophic failure.

Bypass is no longer made in the filter or housing?
(It has been many years since I've rebuilt an engine...)

--
If government were a product,
selling it would be illegal.
--P.J. O'Rourke

On Fri, 02 May 2014 22:40:34 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 19:00:46 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 15:04:06 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

That's probably a lot more common than actual tearing of the filter.
But the plug up results in a complete bypass, so that crap gets into
the bearings either way.
Nope, with the filter screen plugged NOTHING gets to the bearings -
almost certain, instant, catastrophic failure.

Oh! whap You meant the sump filter screen. Nevermind...

--
If government were a product,
selling it would be illegal.
--P.J. O'Rourke

On Sat, 03 May 2014 08:50:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 22:40:34 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 19:00:46 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 15:04:06 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

That's probably a lot more common than actual tearing of the filter.
But the plug up results in a complete bypass, so that crap gets into
the bearings either way.
Nope, with the filter screen plugged NOTHING gets to the bearings -
almost certain, instant, catastrophic failure.

Bypass is no longer made in the filter or housing?
(It has been many years since I've rebuilt an engine...)
The bypass is still there, but nothing to bypass if the pump can't
suck up any oil. The bypass allows oil to bypass a plugged filter (on
the pressure side) It can't do squat for a plugged inlet.

On Sat, 03 May 2014 08:57:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 22:40:34 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 19:00:46 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 15:04:06 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

That's probably a lot more common than actual tearing of the filter.
But the plug up results in a complete bypass, so that crap gets into
the bearings either way.
Nope, with the filter screen plugged NOTHING gets to the bearings -
almost certain, instant, catastrophic failure.

Oh! whap You meant the sump filter screen. Nevermind...
whap yup!!!

On Fri, 02 May 2014 19:00:46 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 15:04:06 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 May 2014 11:22:07 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 17:39:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 May 2014 10:09:14 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I want to flush my f-163 Continental four banger on my SA 200 welder,
just for GP. Is this necessary? Is it helpful? What kind of flush?
Or do I just run a can of Marvel Mystery Oil for 10 hours or so and
change oil?

I have decided to really clean it up and go for top dollar on it. It is
a 1979 in great shape, all original.

Steve
MMO or Rislone, or a purpose-produced engine flush.

I've always favored MMO, and continue to use it in my air tools to
this day, too.


Or the "tried and true" stove oil or Kerosene mixed with engine oil.
Whatever you use, don't run the engine hard. A good fast idle for an
hour is aften enough. If it's bad, you will want to do it in several
stages. Used to run 25% kero in the old "flat crank special" chrysler
six for half an hour before each oil change - and drain it hot.

Ditto the "do it in stages" sentiment. I've seen huge chunks of
metal-infused grease/scum fall off the inside of old Chebby engines
and tear up the filter, resulting in total engine failure.
The bigest risk is all the excrement plugging the oil pickup screen.

That's probably a lot more common than actual tearing of the filter.
But the plug up results in a complete bypass, so that crap gets into
the bearings either way.


Did in a "leaning tower of power" 225 in a valiant that way once - not

Excellent old motor. Ditto the 300cid Ford I-6. (But I loved my Ford
302 V-8s, lemme tell ya.)


Worst I ever had was the '57 272ci

using solvent - just chiseling the crap off the rockers to adjust the
valves. We drained and changed the oil after, but didn't get enough of
the crap out. Brother had bought the car - don't think it EVER had an
oil change - - -

That's the history of the smallblocks I'd seen early on in my career.
"Oil change? What's that? I fill when it drops down on the stick.
Isn't that enough?"
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada