Ok, here's the problem. I have poor heat in my truck. Over time the
heater core has become less efficient at transferring heat due to whatever
is going on inside the heater core, be it a buildup of rust from the
engine block or whatever happens with the anti-freeze. I have used the
traditional radiator flushing procedures with over the counter products
such as Prestone, etc. with minor improvements. I would replace it with a
new one but the repair process is very expensive if done by a shop and is
a lot of work if you tackle it yourself. It involves removing the
dashboard to get access. Complicating the unkown is that because I cannot
see the actual heater core, which resembles a small automotive radiator, I
do not know if it is alum or brass. The tubes leading in are brass but
that doesn't guarantee the actual heater core is brass, it may be alum.
Right now I have drained it and blown it out with compressed air. My plan
is to fill it via the outlet tube with boiling white vinegar, 5% solution.
Is this the right approach? Is there anything I could do to
"supercharge" the solution without etching away the surfaces? Any
thoughts? By the way it is a 1997 Dodge Ram pickup truck. Thanks.

--
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http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...egar-9906-.htm
using PolytechForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
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On Thu, 30 Jan 2014 03:18:02 +0000, asonofsam
wrote:

Ok, here's the problem. I have poor heat in my truck. Over time the
heater core has become less efficient at transferring heat due to whatever
is going on inside the heater core, be it a buildup of rust from the
engine block or whatever happens with the anti-freeze. I have used the
traditional radiator flushing procedures with over the counter products
such as Prestone, etc. with minor improvements. I would replace it with a
new one but the repair process is very expensive if done by a shop and is
a lot of work if you tackle it yourself. It involves removing the
dashboard to get access. Complicating the unkown is that because I cannot
see the actual heater core, which resembles a small automotive radiator, I
do not know if it is alum or brass. The tubes leading in are brass but
that doesn't guarantee the actual heater core is brass, it may be alum.
Right now I have drained it and blown it out with compressed air. My plan
is to fill it via the outlet tube with boiling white vinegar, 5% solution.
Is this the right approach? Is there anything I could do to
"supercharge" the solution without etching away the surfaces? Any
thoughts? By the way it is a 1997 Dodge Ram pickup truck. Thanks.
If the tubes are brass the core is brass. In over 50 years I've never
seen a "hybrid" aluminum/brass heater core.

On Thu, 30 Jan 2014 03:18:02 +0000, asonofsam
wrote:

Ok, here's the problem. I have poor heat in my truck. Over time the
heater core has become less efficient at transferring heat due to whatever
is going on inside the heater core, be it a buildup of rust from the
engine block or whatever happens with the anti-freeze. I have used the
traditional radiator flushing procedures with over the counter products
such as Prestone, etc. with minor improvements. I would replace it with a
new one but the repair process is very expensive if done by a shop and is
a lot of work if you tackle it yourself. It involves removing the
dashboard to get access. Complicating the unkown is that because I cannot
see the actual heater core, which resembles a small automotive radiator, I
do not know if it is alum or brass. The tubes leading in are brass but
that doesn't guarantee the actual heater core is brass, it may be alum.
Right now I have drained it and blown it out with compressed air. My plan
is to fill it via the outlet tube with boiling white vinegar, 5% solution.
Is this the right approach? Is there anything I could do to
"supercharge" the solution without etching away the surfaces? Any
thoughts? By the way it is a 1997 Dodge Ram pickup truck. Thanks.

If you didn't blow it up with the compressed air, try reverse flushing
it with a bit stronger hot vinegar solution.

Also doublecheck your water pump. Impellers rust away and the slower
flow can keep the heater from working even as the truck runs hotter.

I've never known anything to -really- help a plugged heater core. That
crap is industrial strength.

http://tinyurl.com/jwm966e These vids might help the final outcome.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Too bad -none- of the current CONgresscritters are willing to do that. -LJ

On Wed, 29 Jan 2014 23:07:36 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 30 Jan 2014 03:18:02 +0000, asonofsam
m wrote:

Ok, here's the problem. I have poor heat in my truck. Over time the
heater core has become less efficient at transferring heat due to whatever
is going on inside the heater core, be it a buildup of rust from the
engine block or whatever happens with the anti-freeze. I have used the
traditional radiator flushing procedures with over the counter products
such as Prestone, etc. with minor improvements. I would replace it with a
new one but the repair process is very expensive if done by a shop and is
a lot of work if you tackle it yourself. It involves removing the
dashboard to get access. Complicating the unkown is that because I cannot
see the actual heater core, which resembles a small automotive radiator, I
do not know if it is alum or brass. The tubes leading in are brass but
that doesn't guarantee the actual heater core is brass, it may be alum.
Right now I have drained it and blown it out with compressed air. My plan
is to fill it via the outlet tube with boiling white vinegar, 5% solution.
Is this the right approach? Is there anything I could do to
"supercharge" the solution without etching away the surfaces? Any
thoughts? By the way it is a 1997 Dodge Ram pickup truck. Thanks.
If the tubes are brass the core is brass. In over 50 years I've never
seen a "hybrid" aluminum/brass heater core.

+1

The closest I've seen to a hybrid is ABS top and bottom tanks with
aluminum-tubed body, crimped together with o-rings to seal 'em up, and
that was a radiator.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Too bad -none- of the current CONgresscritters are willing to do that. -LJ

Right now I have drained it and blown it out with compressed air. My plan

is to fill it via the outlet tube with boiling white vinegar, 5% solution..

Is this the right approach? Is there anything I could do to

"supercharge" the solution without etching away the surfaces? Any

thoughts? By the way it is a 1997 Dodge Ram pickup truck. Thanks.


I don't know if radiator gunk has anything in common with tripoli polishing compound, but I clean my brass parts in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with vinegar and kitchen degreaser. I don't know if it will work in your truck, but I don't think you'll damage anything as long as you flush it well afterwards.

The closest I've seen to a hybrid is ABS top and bottom tanks with

aluminum-tubed body, crimped together with o-rings to seal 'em up, and

that was a radiator.


Yeah. That was my POS '82 Rabbit! The cooling system in that thing was deserving of a Darwin award.

"asonofsam"
wrote in message Ok, here's the problem. I have
poor heat in my truck. Over time the
heater core has become less efficient at
transferring heat due to whatever
is going on inside the heater core, be it a
buildup of rust from the
engine block or whatever happens with the
anti-freeze. I have used the
traditional radiator flushing procedures with
over the counter products
such as Prestone, etc. with minor improvements.
I would replace it with a
new one but the repair process is very expensive
if done by a shop and is
a lot of work if you tackle it yourself. It
involves removing the
dashboard to get access. Complicating the
unkown is that because I cannot
see the actual heater core, which resembles a
small automotive radiator, I
do not know if it is alum or brass. The tubes
leading in are brass but
that doesn't guarantee the actual heater core is
brass, it may be alum. Right now I have drained
it and blown it out with compressed air. My
plan
is to fill it via the outlet tube with boiling
white vinegar, 5% solution.
Is this the right approach? Is there anything
I could do to
"supercharge" the solution without etching away
the surfaces? Any
thoughts? By the way it is a 1997 Dodge Ram
pickup truck. Thanks.


Perhaps there is something going on outside the
core? Like getting
plugged up with organic debris? Or a plugged up
cabin filter?
Just thinking outside the box on this.... :)}

"Brass"? I thought cores were either aluminum or copper. Brass is a
much poorer conductor of electricity, so I'd expect the same with heat.
Yes/no?

Bob

Perhaps there is something going on outside the
core? Like getting
plugged up with organic debris? Or a plugged up
cabin filter?
Just thinking outside the box on this.... :)}

Yes! Always check the simple stuff first!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troubleshooting

Erik

On 1/30/14, 2:44 PM, Erik wrote:

Perhaps there is something going on outside the
core? Like getting
plugged up with organic debris? Or a plugged up
cabin filter?
Just thinking outside the box on this.... :)}

Yes! Always check the simple stuff first!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troubleshooting

Erik

Oops, pushed sent too soon...

Also, if so equipped, be sure the heater valve is actually operational.

Good luck!

Erik

On Thu, 30 Jan 2014 11:45:00 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"asonofsam"
wrote in message Ok, here's the problem. I have
poor heat in my truck. Over time the
heater core has become less efficient at
transferring heat due to whatever
is going on inside the heater core, be it a
buildup of rust from the
engine block or whatever happens with the
anti-freeze. I have used the
traditional radiator flushing procedures with
over the counter products
such as Prestone, etc. with minor improvements.
I would replace it with a
new one but the repair process is very expensive
if done by a shop and is
a lot of work if you tackle it yourself. It
involves removing the
dashboard to get access. Complicating the
unkown is that because I cannot
see the actual heater core, which resembles a
small automotive radiator, I
do not know if it is alum or brass. The tubes
leading in are brass but
that doesn't guarantee the actual heater core is
brass, it may be alum. Right now I have drained
it and blown it out with compressed air. My
plan
is to fill it via the outlet tube with boiling
white vinegar, 5% solution.
Is this the right approach? Is there anything
I could do to
"supercharge" the solution without etching away
the surfaces? Any
thoughts? By the way it is a 1997 Dodge Ram
pickup truck. Thanks.


Perhaps there is something going on outside the
core? Like getting
plugged up with organic debris? Or a plugged up
cabin filter?
Just thinking outside the box on this.... :)}


Is the vehicle air conditioned? And the AC doesn't work? Oil from the
A/C system due to a leaking evaporator can attract dirt and almost
totally plug the heater core.

On Thu, 30 Jan 2014 13:32:36 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:


"Brass"? I thought cores were either aluminum or copper. Brass is a
much poorer conductor of electricity, so I'd expect the same with heat.
Yes/no?

Bob
Have not seen a pure copper radiator on anything newer than the
twenties, and evennthen brass was MUCH more common.

On 1/30/2014 5:52 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jan 2014 13:32:36 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:


"Brass"? I thought cores were either aluminum or copper. Brass is a
much poorer conductor of electricity, so I'd expect the same with heat.
Yes/no?

Bob
Have not seen a pure copper radiator on anything newer than the
twenties, and evennthen brass was MUCH more common.

OK, thanks.

On Thursday, January 30, 2014 1:32:36 PM UTC-5, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
"Brass"? I thought cores were either aluminum or copper. Brass is a

much poorer conductor of electricity, so I'd expect the same with heat.

Yes/no?

Well brass has about 1/4 the conductivity of copper (at 300K) but it's still pretty good. (about the same ratio as in the electrical conductivity) I expect the weak link in the thermal conductivity chain is the metal to air interface.

George H.



Bob