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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part
is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. |
#2
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in
: I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Make a couple of flats! They won't compromise the strength, and will ensure (if the screws are gum-locked) that there's no slippage. If you 'dimple' instead of flatting, there also will be no longitudinal play. They make shaft-mounted stones for a reason! G Lloyd |
#3
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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![]() Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Right up my alley, Tom.. --but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter. |
#4
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![]() "PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message news:H_ydncQ00b1oXrPPnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@scnresearch. com... Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Right up my alley, Tom.. --but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter. You're the jackass . Opinionated , rude , and often just plain mean . Bubbye -- Snag |
#5
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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![]() "Snag" wrote in message "PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message Tom Gardner fired this volley in I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Right up my alley, Tom.. --but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter. You're the jackass . Opinionated , rude , and often just plain mean . Bubbye -- Snag Yup, hacksaw is a jackass.... must be hard to work with him, eih? He thinks he is the boss, but is really just a frustrated worker. |
#6
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![]() "Phil Kangas" wrote in message ... "Snag" wrote in message "PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message Tom Gardner fired this volley in I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Right up my alley, Tom.. --but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter. You're the jackass . Opinionated , rude , and often just plain mean . Bubbye -- Snag Yup, hacksaw is a jackass.... must be hard to work with him, eih? All I've ever done with Tom, and you, Phil, is to respond in kind. He thinks he is the boss, but is really just a frustrated worker. |
#7
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On 9/10/2013 1:14 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message "PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message Tom Gardner fired this volley in I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Right up my alley, Tom.. --but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter. You're the jackass . Opinionated , rude , and often just plain mean . Bubbye -- Snag Yup, hacksaw is a jackass.... must be hard to work with him, eih? He thinks he is the boss, but is really just a frustrated worker. He signs pay checks on the back, always has, always will. |
#8
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On 9/10/2013 8:59 AM, Snag wrote:
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message news:H_ydncQ00b1oXrPPnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@scnresearch. com... Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Right up my alley, Tom.. --but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter. You're the jackass . Opinionated , rude , and often just plain mean . Bubbye -- Snag Watch out! He's got clips full of bullets for a handgun. He always has on opinion that nobody wants...because he's usually wrong and since I started calling him on his lack of knowledge he's pouting. |
#9
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Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in
: I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. PS... I missed the part about adjusting it. Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period! Lloyd |
#10
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On 9/9/2013 5:59 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. PS... I missed the part about adjusting it. Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period! Lloyd Good idea, I should have room. |
#11
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On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 19:13:48 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:
On 9/9/2013 5:59 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. PS... I missed the part about adjusting it. Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period! Lloyd Good idea, I should have room. My mind must be in the gutter, thought I was missing a love position. I looked it up. I call these locking collars and use them to time cup conveyors on my packing line. They have never slipped. Karl |
#12
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On 10/09/2013 8:03 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 19:13:48 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote: On 9/9/2013 5:59 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. PS... I missed the part about adjusting it. Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period! Lloyd Good idea, I should have room. My mind must be in the gutter, thought I was missing a love position. I looked it up. I call these locking collars and use them to time cup conveyors on my packing line. They have never slipped. Karl My mind must be in the gutter, on my side of the pond we call cup conveyers brassieres. |
#13
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On Tue, 10 Sep 2013 16:03:18 +0800, Scromlette
wrote: On 10/09/2013 8:03 AM, Karl Townsend wrote: On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 19:13:48 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote: On 9/9/2013 5:59 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. PS... I missed the part about adjusting it. Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period! Lloyd Good idea, I should have room. My mind must be in the gutter, thought I was missing a love position. I looked it up. I call these locking collars and use them to time cup conveyors on my packing line. They have never slipped. Karl My mind must be in the gutter, on my side of the pond we call cup conveyers brassieres. Poor Karl. From this day hence, he'll be thought of as The Apple Brassierier. Or should that be The Apple Bra Bro? snort (Sorry, Karl.) -- [Television is] the triumph of machine over people. -- Fred Allen |
#14
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On 9/10/2013 4:03 AM, Scromlette wrote:
On 10/09/2013 8:03 AM, Karl Townsend wrote: On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 19:13:48 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote: On 9/9/2013 5:59 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in : I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. PS... I missed the part about adjusting it. Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period! Lloyd Good idea, I should have room. My mind must be in the gutter, thought I was missing a love position. I looked it up. I call these locking collars and use them to time cup conveyors on my packing line. They have never slipped. Karl My mind must be in the gutter, on my side of the pond we call cup conveyers brassieres. Do they use "Cup-Point" set screws? |
#15
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On 9/10/2013 0:47, Tom Gardner wrote:
I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Some locking arrangement with tapered parts comes to mind. A couple of bolts to pull the taper tight, a couple of threads at other end to release the taper. Quite standard arrangement for pulleys, and handles lots of torque. "Taper lock" is one trademark. You can get them as separate parts so you can use your own cam follower, just bore the middle to match the OD of the taper lock sleeve. Cost is quite low, around 20usd.. Untightening it is surprisingly easy with the bolts at the opening threads, pushing the tapered parts apart. |
#16
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Kristian Ukkonen fired this volley in
: Some locking arrangement with tapered parts comes to mind. Climax coupling... G Lloyd |
#17
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![]() "Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message ... I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Split ring clamp? If you like set-screws, you can use a conical tipped screw in an off-center hole so the side of the cone engages the side of the shaft. You can also grind a shallow groove in the shaft where the screw makes contact and leave it with a rough finish. Then use a brass-tipped screw that would bite into the finish. |
#18
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On 9/9/2013 6:07 PM, anorton wrote:
"Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message ... I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Split ring clamp? If you like set-screws, you can use a conical tipped screw in an off-center hole so the side of the cone engages the side of the shaft. You can also grind a shallow groove in the shaft where the screw makes contact and leave it with a rough finish. Then use a brass-tipped screw that would bite into the finish. No, I don't like set screws for this. I like the different clamp style parts! |
#19
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On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 17:47:47 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:
I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Google "adjustable cam gears" and see if they give you any ideas. Maybe. -- Ed Huntress |
#20
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On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 17:47:47 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks
wrote: I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. ==================== Although this will require a new hub and increase cost, one of the best solutions is what is called a split cotter [not cotter key] Very compact and has tremendous grip. Another possibility is the commercial tapered collet and hub which is tightened and removed with set screws. Also very compact and strong but $$$. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...-cotter-design http://www.cnccookbook.com/MTMillKurtViseStop.htm http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Pr...longknurl.html http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...130909222421:s http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rue&sst=subset |
#21
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On 9/9/2013 6:26 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 17:47:47 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote: I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. ==================== Although this will require a new hub and increase cost, one of the best solutions is what is called a split cotter [not cotter key] Very compact and has tremendous grip. Another possibility is the commercial tapered collet and hub which is tightened and removed with set screws. Also very compact and strong but $$$. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...-cotter-design http://www.cnccookbook.com/MTMillKurtViseStop.htm http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Pr...longknurl.html http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...130909222421:s http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rue&sst=subset Good solution! |
#22
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![]() Tom Gardner wrote: I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. How much adjustment range and how fine an adjustment is needed? A splined setup comes to mind, 36 spline, 10 degree adjustments. How about pinning the shaft connection and making the adjustment offboard in the cam follower arm with a threaded adjustment? |
#23
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Say I have a place where apples are transferred from singular cups to
wieght cups and the timing must be perfect. The chain between the two makes a U around an idler sprocket. This sprocket can be quickly rasied/lowered with a threaded bolt and handweel, changing the length of chain between the singulator and weight cup conveyors and thus the timing. Quick and accurate to change while the machine runs. may not fit your application, but one clever idea. Karl |
#24
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On 9/9/2013 8:47 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
Say I have a place where apples are transferred from singular cups to wieght cups and the timing must be perfect. The chain between the two makes a U around an idler sprocket. This sprocket can be quickly rasied/lowered with a threaded bolt and handweel, changing the length of chain between the singulator and weight cup conveyors and thus the timing. Quick and accurate to change while the machine runs. may not fit your application, but one clever idea. Karl I use that method on auto wire cutters where the cut bundle fits in a trough on a chain. |
#25
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Tom Gardner wrote:
I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. You need a collet setup. It sounds like you have a hub on the cam where the setscrews are. Turn the OD of the hub to a smooth, constant diameter. Slot across the hub, probably twice at right angles. Then, make a snug-fitting collar that goes around the hub. Make one slit in the collar and cross-drill for a setscrew that will close up the slit. (Easier to drill and tap first, then saw-cut the slit.) When this is clamped firmly over the hub, it forms a collet that can be VERY tight. Jon |
#26
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On 9/9/2013 10:22 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote: I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. You need a collet setup. It sounds like you have a hub on the cam where the setscrews are. Turn the OD of the hub to a smooth, constant diameter. Slot across the hub, probably twice at right angles. Then, make a snug-fitting collar that goes around the hub. Make one slit in the collar and cross-drill for a setscrew that will close up the slit. (Easier to drill and tap first, then saw-cut the slit.) When this is clamped firmly over the hub, it forms a collet that can be VERY tight. Jon Yep, I agree. |
#27
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On 2013-09-09, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:
I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Hmm ... A cup-head won't do much for you unless it can deform the shaft -- which then makes subsequent adjustments more difficult. Instead -- there are setscrews with a soft ball end (something like silver or aluminum in a cup point) so it deforms and grips the shaft without deforming the shaft. Or consider putting annealed copper slugs turned to be the minor diameter of the thread or a bit smaller under the cup-point (or better, flat-point) setscrew. Every so many re-adjustments, pull out the copper slugs and replace with fresh ones, as they will work harden. Good Luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#28
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On 9/10/2013 1:03 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2013-09-09, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote: I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Hmm ... A cup-head won't do much for you unless it can deform the shaft -- which then makes subsequent adjustments more difficult. Instead -- there are setscrews with a soft ball end (something like silver or aluminum in a cup point) so it deforms and grips the shaft without deforming the shaft. Or consider putting annealed copper slugs turned to be the minor diameter of the thread or a bit smaller under the cup-point (or better, flat-point) setscrew. Every so many re-adjustments, pull out the copper slugs and replace with fresh ones, as they will work harden. Good Luck, DoN. I only have about 7/16" thread to work with. |
#29
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Maybe a small point, but having the set screws opposite each other would be
the worst way to use set screws, wouldn't it? If you have to use two of them, shouldn't they be 90 degrees from each other so they are both pulling the part toward the same side of shaft? Pete Stanaitis --------------- "Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message ... I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. |
#30
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On 9/10/2013 11:05 AM, Pete S wrote:
Maybe a small point, but having the set screws opposite each other would be the worst way to use set screws, wouldn't it? If you have to use two of them, shouldn't they be 90 degrees from each other so they are both pulling the part toward the same side of shaft? Pete Stanaitis --------------- "Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message ... I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Yep, but no room at 90. I figure that oposing is better than 1 screw. |
#31
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On Tuesday, September 10, 2013 9:46:17 PM UTC-4, Tom Gardner wrote:
Yep, but no room at 90. I figure that opposing is better than 1 screw. Actually it is not much better. Think of having two men pulling against each other on a rope. Now tie one end of the rope and just have one man pull. The tension in the rope is the same in both cases. Is the part long enough that you can put two set screws both at the same degree.? Dan |
#32
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#33
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On 09/10/2013 08:46 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 9/10/2013 11:05 AM, Pete S wrote: Maybe a small point, but having the set screws opposite each other would be the worst way to use set screws, wouldn't it? If you have to use two of them, shouldn't they be 90 degrees from each other so they are both pulling the part toward the same side of shaft? Pete Stanaitis --------------- "Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message ... I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Yep, but no room at 90. I figure that oposing is better than 1 screw. No. The action of the set screw pulls the opposite side of the part against the shaft, and that is where most of the torque resistance comes from, not from the screw itself. Two screws at 90 degrees assist each other in pulling the part against the shaft. But, two opposing set screws will fight each other. The part is not pulled against the shaft anywhere, and the tiny tips of the screws are doing all the work. Opposing sharp point set screws digging into a soft shaft might behave the way you expected, but that's not what you have. -- Bob Nichols AT comcast.net I am "RNichols42" |
#34
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On 09/12/2013 07:03 AM, Robert Nichols wrote:
No. The action of the set screw pulls the opposite side of the part against the shaft, and that is where most of the torque resistance comes from, not from the screw itself. Two screws at 90 degrees assist each other in pulling the part against the shaft. But, two opposing set screws will fight each other. The part is not pulled against the shaft anywhere, and the tiny tips of the screws are doing all the work. Opposing sharp point set screws digging into a soft shaft might behave the way you expected, but that's not what you have. Afterthought: As a low-tech solution, put a little valve grinding compound in the joint and use just one set screw. -- Bob Nichols AT comcast.net I am "RNichols42" |
#35
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On 9/12/2013 8:20 AM, Robert Nichols wrote:
On 09/12/2013 07:03 AM, Robert Nichols wrote: No. The action of the set screw pulls the opposite side of the part against the shaft, and that is where most of the torque resistance comes from, not from the screw itself. Two screws at 90 degrees assist each other in pulling the part against the shaft. But, two opposing set screws will fight each other. The part is not pulled against the shaft anywhere, and the tiny tips of the screws are doing all the work. Opposing sharp point set screws digging into a soft shaft might behave the way you expected, but that's not what you have. Afterthought: As a low-tech solution, put a little valve grinding compound in the joint and use just one set screw. Yep! I've used that technique before. |
#36
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On 9/12/2013 8:03 AM, Robert Nichols wrote:
On 09/10/2013 08:46 PM, Tom Gardner wrote: On 9/10/2013 11:05 AM, Pete S wrote: Maybe a small point, but having the set screws opposite each other would be the worst way to use set screws, wouldn't it? If you have to use two of them, shouldn't they be 90 degrees from each other so they are both pulling the part toward the same side of shaft? Pete Stanaitis --------------- "Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message ... I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily. Yep, but no room at 90. I figure that opposing is better than 1 screw. No. The action of the set screw pulls the opposite side of the part against the shaft, and that is where most of the torque resistance comes from, not from the screw itself. Two screws at 90 degrees assist each other in pulling the part against the shaft. But, two opposing set screws will fight each other. The part is not pulled against the shaft anywhere, and the tiny tips of the screws are doing all the work. Opposing sharp point set screws digging into a soft shaft might behave the way you expected, but that's not what you have. I see. The shaft is too hard for any setscrew to get a purchase, it's only a pressure thing. I did notice that if either set screw is loosened, the part will turn on the shaft. I'll build a clamping part. |
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Thu, 12 Sep 2013 10:25:05 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks
wrote: I'll build a clamping part. ============== Just hit my in-basket see http://www.industrialmachinerydigest...tp-hydropress/ |
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