Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Grinding lathe bed.

Uffe Bærentsen wrote:

Hi

Saw this on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NGEQFJdmo4

I'm sure that the ways will look good when you grind like this guy does.
But how about saddle wear? (don't know how to spell it :-( )
As far as I can see there is no way that you or me can remove saddle
wear grinding a bed like this only add more sway to the bed.

I did this on a 6 foot Sheldon R15 lathe about a decade ago.
It roughly replicates the tailstock ways onto the saddle ways.
Assuming the tailstock ways have MUCH less wear than the main ways,
it should help immensely. Then, because the saddle was worn, too,
I built it up with Moglice castable bedway liner, and then scraped
the Moglice to get better surface contact. The bed, itself, is
used as the master to cast the Moglice to. You coat the bed first
with a mold release agent, apply Moglice to the saddle and place it
on the bed. I drilled and tapped holes in the saddle for
brass-tip setscrews to hold the saddle in proper alignement, then these
screws could be used to pop the saddle free after the Moglice cured.

Anyway, the whole point of this is that the bottom of the saddle
can be hand-scraped into good surface contact and proper alignment
to the bed (with or without a bedway liner material).

Jon
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Default Grinding lathe bed.

On Thu, 28 Mar 2013 12:02:04 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

Uffe Bærentsen wrote:

Hi

Saw this on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NGEQFJdmo4

I'm sure that the ways will look good when you grind like this guy does.
But how about saddle wear? (don't know how to spell it :-( )
As far as I can see there is no way that you or me can remove saddle
wear grinding a bed like this only add more sway to the bed.

I did this on a 6 foot Sheldon R15 lathe about a decade ago.
It roughly replicates the tailstock ways onto the saddle ways.
Assuming the tailstock ways have MUCH less wear than the main ways,
it should help immensely. Then, because the saddle was worn, too,
I built it up with Moglice castable bedway liner, and then scraped
the Moglice to get better surface contact. The bed, itself, is
used as the master to cast the Moglice to. You coat the bed first
with a mold release agent, apply Moglice to the saddle and place it
on the bed. I drilled and tapped holes in the saddle for
brass-tip setscrews to hold the saddle in proper alignement, then these
screws could be used to pop the saddle free after the Moglice cured.

Anyway, the whole point of this is that the bottom of the saddle
can be hand-scraped into good surface contact and proper alignment
to the bed (with or without a bedway liner material).

Jon


Jon, is he actually resting on the tailstock ways? I thought he was on
the main bedway, but I can't see which it is in the video.

--
Ed Huntress
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Default Grinding lathe bed.


"Jon Elson" wrote in message ...
Uffe Bærentsen wrote:

Hi

Saw this on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NGEQFJdmo4

I'm sure that the ways will look good when you grind like this guy does.
But how about saddle wear? (don't know how to spell it :-( )
As far as I can see there is no way that you or me can remove saddle
wear grinding a bed like this only add more sway to the bed.

I did this on a 6 foot Sheldon R15 lathe about a decade ago.
It roughly replicates the tailstock ways onto the saddle ways.


The carriage on a Lodge and Shipley runs on both both front and rear vee ways.

Assuming the tailstock ways have MUCH less wear than the main ways,
it should help immensely. Then, because the saddle was worn, too,
I built it up with Moglice castable bedway liner, and then scraped
the Moglice to get better surface contact. The bed, itself, is
used as the master to cast the Moglice to. You coat the bed first
with a mold release agent, apply Moglice to the saddle and place it
on the bed. I drilled and tapped holes in the saddle for
brass-tip setscrews to hold the saddle in proper alignement, then these
screws could be used to pop the saddle free after the Moglice cured.

Anyway, the whole point of this is that the bottom of the saddle
can be hand-scraped into good surface contact and proper alignment
to the bed (with or without a bedway liner material).

Jon

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