The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough after several years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose of rust. I needed one for a project car I just started working on so I went ebay shopping for a replacement gauge to go on my hose & adapters.

I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to seller, with a release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping but there isn't a check valve to hold the pressure for cumulative readings. On my old gauge, it must be built into the gauge's body as I don't see any kind of external check valve on it.

When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for each cycle. I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression tester is supposed to work here, other than it should hold the pressure and increase the reading a bit with each crank cycle of the motor.

Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it should?

Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg

Ken Grunke wrote:
The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough after several
years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose of rust. I needed one for a
project car I just started working on so I went ebay shopping for a replacement gauge
to go on my hose & adapters.

I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to seller, with a
release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping but there isn't a check valve
to hold the pressure for cumulative readings. On my old gauge, it must be built into
the gauge's body as I don't see any kind of external check valve on it.

When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for each cycle.
I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression tester is supposed to work
here, other than it should hold the pressure and increase the reading a bit with each
crank cycle of the motor.

Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it should?

Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg



Not how it's supposed to work. Most of them use a check valve in the plug adapter fitting
on the end of the hose. 99% use a tire valve core type valve. Looks just like the release
valve in that T fitting on the old gauge.

Oh the old unit uses nothing more than a bog standard air pressure gauge with a
"compression tester" face on it. The spark adapter fittings are the part that makes it
special.

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in message ...


tire valve core

"Schrader"

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message ...


tire valve core

"Schrader"

Yep, A Schrader type valve core. However some folks don't know that name.


--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...


tire valve core

"Schrader"

Yep, A Schrader type valve core. However some folks don't know that name.


Well, they do now...

"Steve W." wrote in message
...

Oh the old unit uses nothing more than a bog standard air pressure
gauge with a "compression tester" face on it. The spark adapter
fittings are the part that makes it special.

Steve W.

If the check valve was further up the hose the dead space would lower
the reading.

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Oh the old unit uses nothing more than a bog standard air pressure
gauge with a "compression tester" face on it. The spark adapter
fittings are the part that makes it special.

Steve W.

If the check valve was further up the hose the dead space would lower
the reading.



I have units with the valve at the tip and one with the valve right at the gauge. No
difference in the readings but they ones at the adapters are easier to change out.

--
Steve W.

On Mar 19, 9:31*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Oh the old unit uses nothing more than a bog standard air pressure
gauge with a "compression tester" face on it. The spark adapter
fittings are the part that makes it special.

Steve W.

If the check valve was further up the hose the dead space would lower
the reading.

I have units with the valve at the tip and one with the valve right at the gauge. No
difference in the readings but they ones at the adapters are easier to change out.

--
Steve W.

I like the ones that have a quality rubber condom around the gauge.

How soon before we start taking about what we use to check TDC?

On Mar 19, 9:35*pm, jon_banquer wrote:
On Mar 19, 9:31*pm, "Steve W." wrote:









Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Oh the old unit uses nothing more than a bog standard air pressure
gauge with a "compression tester" face on it. The spark adapter
fittings are the part that makes it special.

Steve W.

If the check valve was further up the hose the dead space would lower
the reading.

I have units with the valve at the tip and one with the valve right at the gauge. No
difference in the readings but they ones at the adapters are easier to change out.

--
Steve W.

I like the ones that have a quality rubber condom around the gauge.

How soon before we start taking about what we use to check TDC?

Still waiting for how others check TDC. I bet my method is better and
more accurate. ;)

Steve W. wrote:

Ken Grunke wrote:
The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough
after several years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose
of rust. I needed one for a project car I just started working on so I
went ebay shopping for a replacement gauge to go on my hose & adapters.

I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to
seller, with a release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping
but there isn't a check valve to hold the pressure for cumulative
readings. On my old gauge, it must be built into the gauge's body as I
don't see any kind of external check valve on it.

When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for
each cycle. I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression
tester is supposed to work here, other than it should hold the pressure
and increase the reading a bit with each crank cycle of the motor.

Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it
should?

Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg



Not how it's supposed to work. Most of them use a check valve in the plug
adapter fitting on the end of the hose. 99% use a tire valve core type
valve. Looks just like the release valve in that T fitting on the old
gauge.

Oh the old unit uses nothing more than a bog standard air pressure gauge
with a "compression tester" face on it. The spark adapter fittings are the
part that makes it special.


Perhaps Ken can rescue the adapters with check valves off the old gauge. The
fittings are probably standard pipe thread with some Teflon tape.

My compression gauge has a two piece adapter. The adapter for larger spark
plug threads can be unscrewed for the smaller plug sizes. Once this part is
unscrewed, the tire valve type check valve is clearly visible and can be
removed/replaced with a (cheap) special tool.

--
Paul Hovnanian
------------------------------------------------------------------
2 + 2 = 5 for extremely large values of 2.

On Tue, 19 Mar 2013 13:16:18 -0700 (PDT), Ken Grunke
wrote:

The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough after several years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose of rust. I needed one for a project car I just started working on so I went ebay shopping for a replacement gauge to go on my hose & adapters.

I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to seller, with a release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping but there isn't a check valve to hold the pressure for cumulative readings. On my old gauge, it must be built into the gauge's body as I don't see any kind of external check valve on it.

When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for each cycle. I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression tester is supposed to work here, other than it should hold the pressure and increase the reading a bit with each crank cycle of the motor.

Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it should?

Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg

It jumps to 300 lbs on each crank and then drops off again?

The gauge is missing a check valve in the bottom of the hose above the
spark plug adapter


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Mar 19, 1:16*pm, Ken Grunke wrote:
The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough after several years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose of rust. I needed one for a project car I just started working on so I went ebay shopping for a replacement gauge to go on my hose & adapters.

I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to seller, with a release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping but there isn't a check valve to hold the pressure for cumulative readings. On my old gauge, it must be built into the gauge's body as I don't see any kind of external check valve on it.

When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for each cycle. I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression tester is supposed to work here, other than it should hold the pressure and increase the reading a bit with each crank cycle of the motor.

Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it should?

Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg

What's puzzling to me is why you purchased this gauge other than you
were looking to squeeze a penny as hard as possible. :)

ugh this Google Group thing is scary, I'll get me a *real* newsgroup reader....

So I am missing the Schrader valve, I don't see it in the hose end where the adapters screw on to, nor in the fitting at the gauge. So it's either inside the gauge or it's just plain lost. I haven't used the thing for eons, it sat on a shelf in the garage but I do remember it working back in the day when I still had most of my hair and better eyesight. I did buy the thing new and used it a few times.

It jumps to 300 lbs on each crank and then drops off again?

No Gunner it goes up to whatever that cylinder's pressure is, the four cylinders varied between 150 and 200 on a 20 yr old engine.

The gauge is missing a check valve in the bottom of the hose above the
spark plug adapter

Bingo, I had everything apart and do not see any check valve or schrader valve.

What's puzzling to me is why you purchased this gauge other than you
were looking to squeeze a penny as hard as possible. :)

Sure I'm trying to save a couple bucks, and also trying to avoid the Chinese crap that is rampant on ebay (and everywhere else). I live in the boonies and don't hit the metropolis very often. And yes, I am a penny pincher on a limited income.

Perhaps Ken can rescue the adapters with check valves off the old gauge. The
fittings are probably standard pipe thread with some Teflon tape.

My compression gauge has a two piece adapter. The adapter for larger spark
plug threads can be unscrewed for the smaller plug sizes. Once this part is
unscrewed, the tire valve type check valve is clearly visible and can be
removed/replaced with a (cheap) special tool.

Paul, I am using the adapters and hose from my old tester with the new gauge in place of the rusty old one. Maybe at some point the check valve fell out when I was switching adapters? Dunno.

Guys, thanks for the replies, I'm gonna sleep on it and maybe look for another gauge on ebay in the morning. BTW the seller was a fabulous guy who offered a full refund including shipping. I searched high and low for the box the gauge came in and told him I couldnt find it, expecting him to refuse the refund. But he answered back don't even bother returning the unit, just use it for a paperweight and then he refunded the full amount. Now there's a nomination for ebay seller of the year

On Mar 19, 11:05*pm, Ken Grunke wrote:
ugh this Google Group thing is scary, I'll get me a *real* newsgroup reader...

So I am missing the Schrader valve, I don't see it in the hose end where the adapters screw on to, nor in the fitting at the gauge. *So it's either inside the gauge or it's just plain lost. I haven't used the thing for eons, it sat on a shelf in the garage but I do remember it working back in the day when I still had most of my hair and better eyesight. I did buy the thing new and used it a few times.

It jumps to 300 lbs on each crank and then drops off again?

No Gunner it goes up to whatever that cylinder's pressure is, the four cylinders varied between 150 and 200 on a 20 yr old engine.

The gauge is missing a check valve in the bottom of the hose above the
spark plug adapter

Bingo, I had everything apart and do not see any check valve or schrader valve.

What's puzzling to me is why you purchased this gauge other than you
were looking to squeeze a penny as hard as possible. :)

Sure I'm trying to save a couple bucks, and also trying to avoid the Chinese crap that is rampant on ebay (and everywhere else). I live in the boonies and don't hit the metropolis very often. And yes, I am a penny pincher on a limited income.

Perhaps Ken can rescue the adapters with check valves off the old gauge. The
fittings are probably standard pipe thread with some Teflon tape.

My compression gauge has a two piece adapter. The adapter for larger spark
plug threads can be unscrewed for the smaller plug sizes. Once this part is
unscrewed, the tire valve type check valve is clearly visible and can be
removed/replaced with a (cheap) special tool.

Paul, I am using the adapters and hose from my old tester with the new gauge in place of the rusty old one. *Maybe at some point the check valve fell out when I was switching adapters? Dunno.

Guys, thanks for the replies, I'm gonna sleep on it and maybe look for another gauge on ebay in the morning. BTW the seller was a fabulous guy who offered a full refund including shipping. I searched high and low for the box the gauge came in and told him I couldnt find it, expecting him to refuse the refund. But he answered back don't even bother returning the unit, just use it for a paperweight and then he refunded the full amount. Now there's a nomination for ebay seller of the year

"Sure I'm trying to save a couple bucks, and also trying to avoid the
Chinese crap that is rampant on ebay (and everywhere else). I live in
the boonies and don't hit the metropolis very often. And yes, I am a
penny pincher on a limited income."

New quality tools are almost never cheap.

http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...N-TESTING-SET/

You might try putting some soapy water or spit around the fitting where the
release button is, just below the gage to see if bubbles are present with
some pressure applied.
Then, if that release button assembly can be disassembled, you might find a
fleck of dirt or possibly a missing ball or spring.

In the section where the button is, there should probably be a check valve
which holds the pressure in the gage until the user presses the button.

There are also some types of compression testers which have the check/tire
valve core located at the end of the tube where the rubber tip is (which is
intended to seal in the spark plug hole.

But the release button on the Proto gage should engage something acting as a
check valve.

Another less likely fault could be that there is an internal leak in the
Proto gage, which is a little more complicated to check and repair, but
possible.

--
WB
..........


"Ken Grunke" wrote in message
...
The gauge on my old compression tester decided it had served well enough
after several years of non-use, it's demise helped along by a good dose of
rust. I needed one for a project car I just started working on so I went
ebay shopping for a replacement gauge to go on my hose & adapters.

I found a Proto CTR-20 gauge on ebay, USA made, brand new according to
seller, with a release valve for a good price of $15 including shipping but
there isn't a check valve to hold the pressure for cumulative readings. On
my old gauge, it must be built into the gauge's body as I don't see any kind
of external check valve on it.

When cranking the engine, the needle jumps up to max and back to zero for
each cycle. I'm not familiar with how a standard automotive compression
tester is supposed to work here, other than it should hold the pressure and
increase the reading a bit with each crank cycle of the motor.

Can anyone enlighten me on how to get this working the way I remember it
should?

Here's the gauge screwed onto my hose:
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge02.jpg

Wild_Bill wrote:
In the section where the button is, there should probably be a check valve
which holds the pressure in the gage until the user presses the button.

Nope, it's just the release valve. That works fine. I can blow into the hose with all my cheekmuscles, and the button will release the pressure - there is nothing between the gauge and the plug adapter, only a free passage. Same with the old gauge, it has only the release valve. That one is a Schrader valve in a T-fitting just below the gauge which is plainly seen in my first pictu
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.

"Ken Grunke" wrote in message
...

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the
plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am
missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.

Could be a spring and or check ball is missng or gunked up at the spark plug
fitting end...

--FWIW blowing into the end with your mouth probably won't produce enough
hose expansion to actuate a ball type check valve.

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 08:42:16 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ken Grunke" wrote in message
...

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the
plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am
missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.

Could be a spring and or check ball is missng or gunked up at the spark plug
fitting end...

--FWIW blowing into the end with your mouth probably won't produce enough
hose expansion to actuate a ball type check valve.

Sorry for jumping into the middle without having read the thread, but
there are two kinds of compression testers: the regular kind, which
have a button to activate the check-release valve; and leak-down
testers, which have no such valve.

I have both. They look almost the same. Perhaps, if Ken's tester
doesn't have a check valve, he has a leakdown tester. If so, it will
have a spark-plug-thread terminal end. Regular testers *may* have such
a thread. Mine just has a tapered rubber plug.

--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 11:49:22 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 08:42:16 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ken Grunke" wrote in message
...

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the
plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am
missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.

Could be a spring and or check ball is missng or gunked up at the spark plug
fitting end...

--FWIW blowing into the end with your mouth probably won't produce enough
hose expansion to actuate a ball type check valve.

Sorry for jumping into the middle without having read the thread, but
there are two kinds of compression testers: the regular kind, which
have a button to activate the check-release valve; and leak-down
testers, which have no such valve.

I have both. They look almost the same. Perhaps, if Ken's tester
doesn't have a check valve, he has a leakdown tester. If so, it will
have a spark-plug-thread terminal end. Regular testers *may* have such
a thread. Mine just has a tapered rubber plug.

Whup, I hit "send" too fast. The leak-down tester also has a Schrader
valve, for filling the cylinder with air.

Am I repeating stuff that's been said? If so, I apologize.

--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 11:49:22 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 08:42:16 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ken Grunke" wrote in message
...

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the
plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am
missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.

Could be a spring and or check ball is missng or gunked up at the spark plug
fitting end...

--FWIW blowing into the end with your mouth probably won't produce enough
hose expansion to actuate a ball type check valve.

Sorry for jumping into the middle without having read the thread, but
there are two kinds of compression testers: the regular kind, which
have a button to activate the check-release valve; and leak-down
testers, which have no such valve.

I have both. They look almost the same. Perhaps, if Ken's tester
doesn't have a check valve, he has a leakdown tester. If so, it will
have a spark-plug-thread terminal end. Regular testers *may* have such
a thread. Mine just has a tapered rubber plug.
A leakdown tester should have 2 guages and WILL have a connector for
compressed air.

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 19:59:49 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 11:49:22 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 08:42:16 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ken Grunke" wrote in message
...

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the
plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am
missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.

Could be a spring and or check ball is missng or gunked up at the spark plug
fitting end...

--FWIW blowing into the end with your mouth probably won't produce enough
hose expansion to actuate a ball type check valve.

Sorry for jumping into the middle without having read the thread, but
there are two kinds of compression testers: the regular kind, which
have a button to activate the check-release valve; and leak-down
testers, which have no such valve.

I have both. They look almost the same. Perhaps, if Ken's tester
doesn't have a check valve, he has a leakdown tester. If so, it will
have a spark-plug-thread terminal end. Regular testers *may* have such
a thread. Mine just has a tapered rubber plug.
A leakdown tester should have 2 guages and WILL have a connector for
compressed air.

Mine has one gauge. It's around 45 years old. And as I noted in an
addition to the post above, it has a Schrader valve for pumping up the
cylinder.

What's the second gauge for? With mine, you just attach it, make sure
both valves are closed, and pump it up. Test dry, then test wet (with
about an ounce of oil in the cylinder; more for a V-engine).

Is there something else that I've missed?

--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 06:32:46 -0700 (PDT), Ken Grunke
wrote:

Wild_Bill wrote:
In the section where the button is, there should probably be a check valve
which holds the pressure in the gage until the user presses the button.

Nope, it's just the release valve. That works fine. I can blow into the hose with all my cheekmuscles, and the button will release the pressure - there is nothing between the gauge and the plug adapter, only a free passage. Same with the old gauge, it has only the release valve. That one is a Schrader valve in a T-fitting just below the gauge which is plainly seen in my first pictu
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.

Yes, and they usually fit into the line as you assumed. My old
Snap-On has some at the air fitting end and some at the plug end.
Look for internal threads at both ends of your adapter, Ken.
The only thing which may be missing is a schrader valve insert.

--
In order to become the master, the politician poses as the servant.
--Charles de Gaulle

On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 06:32:46 -0700 (PDT), Ken Grunke
wrote:

Wild_Bill wrote:
In the section where the button is, there should probably be a check valve
which holds the pressure in the gage until the user presses the button.

Nope, it's just the release valve. That works fine. I can blow into the hose with all my cheekmuscles, and the button will release the pressure - there is nothing between the gauge and the plug adapter, only a free passage. Same with the old gauge, it has only the release valve. That one is a Schrader valve in a T-fitting just below the gauge which is plainly seen in my first pictu
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/im...iongauge01.jpg

I am assuming there has to be a separate check valve INLINE between the plug adapter and the gauge below the release valve. That is what I am missing. It may be a fitting I had, but absent-mindedly misplaced.
Is there an internal thread anywhere in the end of the hose/fitting?
If so, pop a tire valve in and try it A tire valve may drop your
pressure reading a bit more than the "proper" valve - some testers
uses special valves, some used regular tire valves - some long - some
short. Long will have less effect on the reading if it can be used
(softer spring)