I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go
that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

I've found up to 1" bolts in local hardware and auto parts stores.

jsw

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

Hardened allthread + nuts?

On 4/25/2012 6:54 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

You don't have a local Fastenal outlet or a JD or other farm implement
dealership?

--

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

If this is for the press, you'd be better off spending the bucks.

You need Grade 8 UN-plated screws to meet the full shear specs.

LLoyd

On 2012-04-25, Karl Townsend wrote:
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

I have some 5/8 bolts for sale dirt cheap.

i

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:54:20 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

I used to buy at Ababba Bolt in SoCal. Fastener distributors are
always a whole bundle cheaper than local hardware stores. Lowes, HD,
and Menards wouud have scared you, too.

Call a local fastener store, Karl.

In building my CNC router, I bought some 5mm x 12mm x 0.8 pitch bolts
at the local ACE Hardware. They were $0.35 each! Allen head cap
screws were over a buck apiece. I just about ****. I hope to be done
with the router build this week, then paint it the next. Rustoleum
Deep Green Hammered, a modified alkyd.

My buddy told me to call Sasco and they shipped a box of 100 of the
allen head cap screws to the local store, where I picked them up for
a total of $5.85. Savings: 600+ percent. I returned the unused Ace
hardware.

www.sascofastener.com doesn't have a catalog online, but they can be
reached at:

Call Mon. through Fri. 7:30 AM - 4:00 PM PST
Phone: (800) 779-2024
Email:


P.S: You didn't say what grade or finish. It can make a big difference
in price. F'rinstance, zinc chromate is 1/2 the price of micronized
galv, and 1/3 the price of hot-dipped galv.

--
Believe nothing.
No matter where you read it,
Or who said it,
Even if I have said it,
Unless it agrees with your own reason
And your own common sense.
-- Buddha

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 09:09:44 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

If this is for the press, you'd be better off spending the bucks.

You need Grade 8 UN-plated screws to meet the full shear specs.

LLoyd

McMaster carries threaded rod in grades B7 and 8. B7 is not awfully
expensive, made from 4140 @ 125ksi, and nice to machine.

For a press frame made from typical structural shapes the bearing area
of the fasteners in their holes may be more important than the shear
strength of the fasteners themselves.

--
Ned Simmons

Ned Simmons fired this volley in
news
For a press frame made from typical structural shapes the bearing area
of the fasteners in their holes may be more important than the shear
strength of the fasteners themselves.

Yep. And that 1/4" web and flange thickness won't take much. That's why
he's spec'ing so many fasteners.

But he also has to deal with the precision of location of all the holes.
If they don't _all_ bear on _all_ the fasteners at the same time, he's
got the same issues as if he hadn't used as many to start with.

That's why I weld and taper-pin my presses. I use blocking to vary the
throat depth.

The only reason I mentioned unplated hardware is because sometimes
(often) the plated ones suffer from hydrogen embrittlement.

LLoyd

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 09:31:17 -0500, Ignoramus18965
wrote:

On 2012-04-25, Karl Townsend wrote:
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

I have some 5/8 bolts for sale dirt cheap.

i

If you have 10" long grade 5 or 8, I could use a dozen.

Karl

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 08:02:19 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:54:20 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

I used to buy at Ababba Bolt in SoCal. Fastener distributors are
always a whole bundle cheaper than local hardware stores. Lowes, HD,
and Menards wouud have scared you, too.

Call a local fastener store, Karl.

In building my CNC router, I bought some 5mm x 12mm x 0.8 pitch bolts
at the local ACE Hardware. They were $0.35 each! Allen head cap
screws were over a buck apiece. I just about ****. I hope to be done
with the router build this week, then paint it the next. Rustoleum
Deep Green Hammered, a modified alkyd.

My buddy told me to call Sasco and they shipped a box of 100 of the
allen head cap screws to the local store, where I picked them up for
a total of $5.85. Savings: 600+ percent. I returned the unused Ace
hardware.

www.sascofastener.com doesn't have a catalog online, but they can be
reached at:

Call Mon. through Fri. 7:30 AM - 4:00 PM PST
Phone: (800) 779-2024
Email:


P.S: You didn't say what grade or finish. It can make a big difference
in price. F'rinstance, zinc chromate is 1/2 the price of micronized
galv, and 1/3 the price of hot-dipped galv.


I'l check them out, Mcmaster and fastenall are $8+ each. I had planned
on a dozen.

Karl

On 2012-04-25, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 09:31:17 -0500, Ignoramus18965
wrote:

On 2012-04-25, Karl Townsend wrote:
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

I have some 5/8 bolts for sale dirt cheap.

i

If you have 10" long grade 5 or 8, I could use a dozen.

Karl


I have a lot of 5/8, 8 inches long threaded rods.

i

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 10:48:42 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ned Simmons fired this volley in
news
For a press frame made from typical structural shapes the bearing area
of the fasteners in their holes may be more important than the shear
strength of the fasteners themselves.

Yep. And that 1/4" web and flange thickness won't take much. That's why
he's spec'ing so many fasteners.

But he also has to deal with the precision of location of all the holes.
If they don't _all_ bear on _all_ the fasteners at the same time, he's
got the same issues as if he hadn't used as many to start with.

That's why I weld and taper-pin my presses. I use blocking to vary the
throat depth.

The only reason I mentioned unplated hardware is because sometimes
(often) the plated ones suffer from hydrogen embrittlement.

LLoyd

I'm using my CNC to drill the holes, spot then drill. Should be pretty
damned accurate. The vertical holes is in the base of the flange,
about 1/2 inch thick. I'm welding another plate in the horizontal pin
location on each end to make it 1/2 inch thick also.

I seen 3/4 by 10 inch bolts at fleet farm didn't realize they only had
grade 2 (butter bolts). never dreamed it would be over $100 for a
dozen bolts. And then I was going to use 10 inch ones on the hydroulic
ram base too. Need to rethink that design.

Karl


Right now, I'm wading through piles of chips in the shop.

I have a lot of 5/8, 8 inches long threaded rods.

i
story of my life, too short.

I could use a supply for the future. Shoot me a price on a large USPS
flat rate box filled with 5/8 bolts. Hope you have a range on lengths,
not all one size.
karltownsendATembarqmail.com

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 10:48:42 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ned Simmons fired this volley in
news
For a press frame made from typical structural shapes the bearing
area
of the fasteners in their holes may be more important than the
shear
strength of the fasteners themselves.

Yep. And that 1/4" web and flange thickness won't take much. That's
why
he's spec'ing so many fasteners....

LLoyd


I seen 3/4 by 10 inch bolts at fleet farm didn't realize they only
had
grade 2 (butter bolts). never dreamed it would be over $100 for a
dozen bolts. And then I was going to use 10 inch ones on the
hydroulic
ram base too. Need to rethink that design.

Karl

If it's for the press, how about 3/4" 1144 Stressproof threaded on the
ends and full diameter within the frame holes?
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant... 86&top_cat=0


jsw

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:54:20 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl


Hey Karl,

Any reason you can't use threaded rod?/ (Ready Rod)

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

On 2012-04-25, Karl Townsend wrote:

I have a lot of 5/8, 8 inches long threaded rods.

i
story of my life, too short.

I could use a supply for the future. Shoot me a price on a large
USPS flat rate box filled with 5/8 bolts. Hope you have a range on
lengths, not all one size. karltownsendATembarqmail.com

I have some new yellow 4 inch 5/8 bolts, and some threaded rod.

PMFRB of threaded rod is $30 plus $12 for shipping.

PMFRB of yellow 4" bolts (would be half full) is also $30. Should be
about 70 bolts. They have a hex flange head. McMaster has them for $2,
they are grade 8.

i

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 11:50:24 -0500, Karl Townsend wrote:
....
I'm using my CNC to drill the holes, spot then drill. Should be pretty
damned accurate. The vertical holes is in the base of the flange, about
1/2 inch thick. I'm welding another plate in the horizontal pin location
on each end to make it 1/2 inch thick also.

I seen 3/4 by 10 inch bolts at fleet farm didn't realize they only had
grade 2 (butter bolts). never dreamed it would be over $100 for a dozen
bolts. And then I was going to use 10 inch ones on the hydroulic ram
base too. Need to rethink that design.

There are some lower prices online but shipping might make the
difference.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Hex_bolts_Grade_8_steel_plain_finish_3_4-10.aspx
3/4-10 x 10", plain, $69.64 box of 10

http://www.nickstruckparts.com/blt8-3401000f.html
3/4-16 x 10", plated, $6.84 each at q. 20

http://boltmax.com/products.php?cat=222
3/4-16 x 10", plain, $14.65 each q. 1
7/8-14 X 10", plain, $13.17 each q. 1

--
jiw

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 10:48:42 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ned Simmons fired this volley in
news
For a press frame made from typical structural shapes the bearing area
of the fasteners in their holes may be more important than the shear
strength of the fasteners themselves.

Yep. And that 1/4" web and flange thickness won't take much. That's why
he's spec'ing so many fasteners.

But he also has to deal with the precision of location of all the holes.
If they don't _all_ bear on _all_ the fasteners at the same time, he's
got the same issues as if he hadn't used as many to start with.

That's why I weld and taper-pin my presses. I use blocking to vary the
throat depth.

The only reason I mentioned unplated hardware is because sometimes
(often) the plated ones suffer from hydrogen embrittlement.

LLoyd

I'm using my CNC to drill the holes, spot then drill. Should be pretty
damned accurate. The vertical holes is in the base of the flange,
about 1/2 inch thick. I'm welding another plate in the horizontal pin
location on each end to make it 1/2 inch thick also.

I seen 3/4 by 10 inch bolts at fleet farm didn't realize they only had
grade 2 (butter bolts). never dreamed it would be over $100 for a
dozen bolts. And then I was going to use 10 inch ones on the hydroulic
ram base too. Need to rethink that design.

Karl

Copperstate Bolt or Fastenal.

(Some Fastenal stores only sell in full box quantities.)

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 11:41:45 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 08:02:19 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:54:20 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

I used to buy at Ababba Bolt in SoCal. Fastener distributors are
always a whole bundle cheaper than local hardware stores. Lowes, HD,
and Menards wouud have scared you, too.

Call a local fastener store, Karl.

In building my CNC router, I bought some 5mm x 12mm x 0.8 pitch bolts
at the local ACE Hardware. They were $0.35 each! Allen head cap
screws were over a buck apiece. I just about ****. I hope to be done
with the router build this week, then paint it the next. Rustoleum
Deep Green Hammered, a modified alkyd.

My buddy told me to call Sasco and they shipped a box of 100 of the
allen head cap screws to the local store, where I picked them up for
a total of $5.85. Savings: 600+ percent. I returned the unused Ace
hardware.

www.sascofastener.com doesn't have a catalog online, but they can be
reached at:

Call Mon. through Fri. 7:30 AM - 4:00 PM PST
Phone: (800) 779-2024
Email:


P.S: You didn't say what grade or finish. It can make a big difference
in price. F'rinstance, zinc chromate is 1/2 the price of micronized
galv, and 1/3 the price of hot-dipped galv.


I'l check them out, Mcmaster and fastenall are $8+ each. I had planned
on a dozen.

Would you settle on hardened rod? Grind snap-ring grooves, or just
leave them plain. These are for holding the adjustable bottom of the
press, the apron? What are the other ten for? Holding the top arbor,
the jack plates, and feet? That gets us to 8. Curiouser and
curiouser.

My buddy Glenn took an HF press and upgraded it. He welded the front
and rear C-beams together so they made a liftable apron module, added
a hand crank winch on top which is cabled to both ends of the apron,
and uses straight hardened rods (with a bolts welded on the front to
keep them from slipping through the back) for the support bolts. AOH
makes it faster, too.

Weld the top and bottom together and you remove the need for all those
bolts.

--
Believe nothing.
No matter where you read it,
Or who said it,
Even if I have said it,
Unless it agrees with your own reason
And your own common sense.
-- Buddha

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
news
Holding the top arbor,
the jack plates, and feet? That gets us to 8. Curiouser and
curiouser.


He can't do with fewer than 16. Two per end of each half of each reaction
beam. And that _barely_ meets the thrust he needs with any safety margin
at all.

LLoyd

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
news
Holding the top arbor,
the jack plates, and feet? That gets us to 8. Curiouser and
curiouser.


Oops... sorry Larry. He's talking about "through bolts". I was figuring
that on bolts that only made it through each web/flange.

BTW... I disconnected the fuel line from the tank to the pump, and
installed a new clear vinyl line from the tank to a siphon vessel, well
below tank level (on the ground, actually).

I got the siphon going and pinched it off (securely) at the bottom end.
Inside of 30 seconds, I opened the siphon again (about 30" drop from the
top of the tank, and only 10" of lift from fuel level to top), and saw a
big gout of air/fumes come from the tank into the line.

So I _definitely_ have a leak on the dip tube inside the tank. No idea
_whatsoever_ on how to fix it, so it may be 'external tank' time.

The tank is welded onto the frame. The fitting block where the draw tube
is is welded onto the top/side of the tank. And there's no way to get a
wrench on _anything_ in there. (maybe you could, but I don't have those
special "Ford" tools they used to cry about).

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message

So I _definitely_ have a leak on the dip tube inside the tank. No
idea
_whatsoever_ on how to fix it, so it may be 'external tank' time.

The tank is welded onto the frame. The fitting block where the draw
tube
is is welded onto the top/side of the tank. And there's no way to
get a
wrench on _anything_ in there. (maybe you could, but I don't have
those
special "Ford" tools they used to cry about).

LLoyd

Maybe you could install a marine replacement gas tank fitting.

jsw

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

Proly suggested already, but threaded rod, with welded or even epoxied nuts?
OR, double-nutted, jammed tight??!!
--
EA

On Apr 25, 4:05*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Larry Jaques fired this volley innews
Holding the top arbor,
the jack plates, and feet? *That gets us to 8. *Curiouser and
curiouser.

Oops... sorry Larry. *He's talking about "through bolts". *I was figuring
that on bolts that only made it through each web/flange.

BTW... I disconnected the fuel line from the tank to the pump, and
installed a new clear vinyl line from the tank to a siphon vessel, well
below tank level (on the ground, actually).

I got the siphon going and pinched it off (securely) at the bottom end.
Inside of 30 seconds, I opened the siphon again (about 30" drop from the
top of the tank, and only 10" of lift from fuel level to top), and saw a
big gout of air/fumes come from the tank into the line.

So I _definitely_ have a leak on the dip tube inside the tank. *No idea
_whatsoever_ on how to fix it, so it may be 'external tank' time.

The tank is welded onto the frame. *The fitting block where the draw tube
is is welded onto the top/side of the tank. *And there's no way to get a
wrench on _anything_ in there. (maybe you could, but I don't have those
special "Ford" tools they used to cry about).

LLoyd

Most automotive gas tanks have a 2" or 3" access hole to fish out the
fuel tank float level indicator or fuel pump. Maybe you could just
drill out the section with the old tube using a hole saw and install
an access cover complete with a new dip tube. As an added benefit,
you'd have access to the inside of the tank to clean it out.

"Denis G." fired this volley in news:f8e5c9cb-
:

Most automotive gas tanks have a 2" or 3" access hole to fish out the
fuel tank float level indicator or fuel pump. Maybe you could just
drill out the section with the old tube using a hole saw and install
an access cover complete with a new dip tube. As an added benefit,
you'd have access to the inside of the tank to clean it out.

Yep... not quite "automotive" style, though. The access hole/level
sensor is in a port about 3" below the dip tube, in the side of the tank,
rather than the top.

It is _possible_ that I might re-jigger that port with a brand new tube.
Although the original tube is inaccessible, the sensor port cover is
reasonably so, with tiny hands and right-angle tools. I have the latter,
not the former, but I have help that might get it done.

That's a good idea!

Lloyd

On Apr 25, 8:37*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"Denis G." fired this volley in news:f8e5c9cb-
:

Most automotive gas tanks have a 2" or 3" access hole to fish out the
fuel tank float level indicator or fuel pump. *Maybe you could just
drill out the section with the old tube using a hole saw and install
an access cover complete with a new dip tube. *As an added benefit,
you'd have access to the inside of the tank to clean it out.

Yep... not quite "automotive" style, though. *The access hole/level
sensor is in a port about 3" below the dip tube, in the side of the tank,
rather than the top.

It is _possible_ that I might re-jigger that port with a brand new tube.
Although the original tube is inaccessible, the sensor port cover is
reasonably so, with tiny hands and right-angle tools. *I have the latter,
not the former, but I have help that might get it done.

That's a good idea!

Lloyd

My first thought was to install a bulkhead fitting in place of the
welded tube, but you need access to both sides of the tank wall to
tighten the nut on a bulkhead fitting. I don't know if that may be
another option with your access from the side hole. It sounds like
you might have to do a Houdini trick.

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Denis G." fired this volley in news:f8e5c9cb-
:

Most automotive gas tanks have a 2" or 3" access hole to fish out the
fuel tank float level indicator or fuel pump. Maybe you could just
drill out the section with the old tube using a hole saw and install
an access cover complete with a new dip tube. As an added benefit,
you'd have access to the inside of the tank to clean it out.

Yep... not quite "automotive" style, though. The access hole/level
sensor is in a port about 3" below the dip tube, in the side of the tank,
rather than the top.

It is _possible_ that I might re-jigger that port with a brand new tube.
Although the original tube is inaccessible, the sensor port cover is
reasonably so, with tiny hands and right-angle tools. I have the latter,
not the former, but I have help that might get it done.


Small hands are what we have wives for.

That's a good idea!

Lloyd

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 16:05:07 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
news
Holding the top arbor,
the jack plates, and feet? That gets us to 8. Curiouser and
curiouser.


Oops... sorry Larry. He's talking about "through bolts". I was figuring
that on bolts that only made it through each web/flange.

Given the cost, I wondered why Ig wasn't welding it up. Weight,
maybe. Welds don't dismantle very easily.


BTW... I disconnected the fuel line from the tank to the pump, and
installed a new clear vinyl line from the tank to a siphon vessel, well
below tank level (on the ground, actually).

I got the siphon going and pinched it off (securely) at the bottom end.
Inside of 30 seconds, I opened the siphon again (about 30" drop from the
top of the tank, and only 10" of lift from fuel level to top), and saw a
big gout of air/fumes come from the tank into the line.

Yup, you easily proved your previous diagnostics there.


So I _definitely_ have a leak on the dip tube inside the tank. No idea
_whatsoever_ on how to fix it, so it may be 'external tank' time.

R&R welded tank. That may be a bit easier said than done.


The tank is welded onto the frame. The fitting block where the draw tube
is is welded onto the top/side of the tank. And there's no way to get a
wrench on _anything_ in there. (maybe you could, but I don't have those
special "Ford" tools they used to cry about).

I made and modified a whole lot of tools when I wrenched for a living.
That's too bad. Auto tanks have removable dip tubes/guage floats.

I guess I'd drain it, fill it with water + argon, and use a plasma
cutter to remove the lid. Then I could cut the front out and make a
slightly smaller tank (with removable dip tube) which could be bolted
in. Weld 4 nuts to the bottom drill and tap them through, then strap
it down. You'll lose a few gallons of capacity, but it would be a
better setup.

To drain it, maybe focus a stream of argon on a hacksaw as you take a
couple swipes at a bottom corner. Getting a drip pan under it could
be tricky. Maybe a funnel and long hose?

Filling it with water through the leaky dip tube would be a cinch.
I've been playing with my buddy's plasma recently. What a magnificent
time saver _those_ are! I also have a new respect for precision
measurement now that I'm building the CNC router. Metal is much less
fluid and forgiving than wood. I had done very little precision
drilling before this. Now I have his mill, lathe, tig (doing heliarc
with it is a neat new trick I'm learning, too.) at my fingertips.
I'm a lucky man.

--
Believe nothing.
No matter where you read it,
Or who said it,
Even if I have said it,
Unless it agrees with your own reason
And your own common sense.
-- Buddha

On 2012-04-26, Denis G. wrote:

[ ... ]

Most automotive gas tanks have a 2" or 3" access hole to fish out the
fuel tank float level indicator or fuel pump. Maybe you could just
drill out the section with the old tube using a hole saw and install
an access cover complete with a new dip tube. As an added benefit,
you'd have access to the inside of the tank to clean it out.

If the tank held gasoline, you'll need to do some fancy tricks
to get the vapors out of there before you risk a tool which can generate
sparks like a hole saw.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

If the tank held gasoline, you'll need to do some fancy tricks
to get the vapors out of there before you risk a tool which can
generate
sparks like a hole saw.


The fitting where the fuel line attaches is completely hidden... it isn't
even "tool accessible". I can _just_ get a long screwdriver in there to
loosen the hose clamp.

I wouldn't try to cut it off, I'd just pull off the hose and stuff a wad
of epoxy putty in and over the end of the barb to make sure that spot
didn't let out fumes.

LLoyd

On Apr 26, 12:39*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2012-04-26, Denis G. wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

Most automotive gas tanks have a 2" or 3" access hole to fish out the
fuel tank float level indicator or fuel pump. *Maybe you could just
drill out the section with the old tube using a hole saw and install
an access cover complete with a new dip tube. *As an added benefit,
you'd have access to the inside of the tank to clean it out.

* * * * If the tank held gasoline, you'll need to do some fancy tricks
to get the vapors out of there before you risk a tool which can generate
sparks like a hole saw.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
* * * * * * * * * Remove oil spill source from e-mail
*Email: * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

You're absolutely right. I'd fill the tank with water first and wait
to dissipate the fumes.

"Denis G." wrote in message
news:5340d49c-8173-4a63-8b67-
-My first thought was to install a bulkhead fitting in place of the
-welded tube, but you need access to both sides of the tank wall to
-tighten the nut on a bulkhead fitting. I don't know if that may be
-another option with your access from the side hole. It sounds like
-you might have to do a Houdini trick.

I ran into that problem when installing an access hatch over the
transmission of a VW Beetle, to get at the starter, fuel line and
upper engine bolts.

I made a tapped nut plate from bar stock that fit underneath and
eventually secured it to the sheet metal with extra screws.

To initially install the hatch and nut plate from one side I put in
one screw to hold the plate, a second through the (skewed) hatch and
plate, then removed the first screw and aligned the hatch and plate
with a wire to put in the second screw which kept them aligned.

IIRC then I drilled and tapped all the other holes.

I mentioned the garden sprayer as a solution for a bolt-through
fitting. The bolt goes inside, the nut outside. Attach a handle to the
bolt to position it and keep it from turning.

Another possibility is a brass compression fitting drilled to let the
tube pass clear through. Solder the fitting to the tank, extend the
tube until it hits bottom and then retract it and tighten the sleeve
nut. If you cut the dip tube end at an angle the shift as the nut
tightens won't matter.

You could put a tap-sized hole in the tank and notch and spread the
side to let the fitting screw in for added mechanical support.

jsw

Denis G. Inscribed thus:

On Apr 25, 8:37Â*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"Denis G." fired this volley in
news:f8e5c9cb-
:

Most automotive gas tanks have a 2" or 3" access hole to fish out
the fuel tank float level indicator or fuel pump. Â*Maybe you could
just drill out the section with the old tube using a hole saw and
install an access cover complete with a new dip tube. Â*As an added
benefit, you'd have access to the inside of the tank to clean it
out.

Yep... not quite "automotive" style, though. Â*The access hole/level
sensor is in a port about 3" below the dip tube, in the side of the
tank, rather than the top.

It is _possible_ that I might re-jigger that port with a brand new
tube. Although the original tube is inaccessible, the sensor port
cover is reasonably so, with tiny hands and right-angle tools. Â*I
have the latter, not the former, but I have help that might get it
done.

That's a good idea!

Lloyd

My first thought was to install a bulkhead fitting in place of the
welded tube, but you need access to both sides of the tank wall to
tighten the nut on a bulkhead fitting. I don't know if that may be
another option with your access from the side hole. It sounds like
you might have to do a Houdini trick.

You could use "rivnuts" !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On Apr 25, 7:54*am, Karl Townsend
wrote:
I'm in need of several 3/4 x 10 bolts. Local fleet farm don't go that
big. McMaster just scared me off. Any suggestions?

Karl

You might look at the web site of Joseph Fazzio's.
http://www.shopjfi.com/

No 3/4 by 10 bolts but they do have 7/8 by 10 grade 8 bolts if you
can go a little bigger.
I bought some 1 1/2 heavy nuts there at $2 each. Which was cheaper
than other places.

If I can be of any help in shipping , let me know.

Dan

wrote

No 3/4 by 10 bolts but they do have 7/8 by 10 grade 8 bolts if you
can go a little bigger.
I bought some 1 1/2 heavy nuts there at $2 each. Which was cheaper
than other places.
Dan

The True Value store here carries 3/4-10 in Grade ? and Grade 8.

jsw

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

So drill a hole in the tank, make up a flange you can screw/ pop
rivet/silicone to the tank top, stick in a new dip tube and set it up.

Its hardly rocket science.

Gunner

No, it's called "micro-miniature contorsionism".

You can't get to the top of the tank, except by boring holes in the
OUTSIDE of the body of the truck. The body plate (1/2" thick) IS the
tank top. I don't want tubes on the tank hanging outside the engine
compartment. You cannot get to the ends, except for one 2" diameter
level gauge port on one end, only.

This is _period_, not "if I had small enough hands, or a drill that did
three zigs and a zags."

Besides, you're a running behind. I posted that I already decided to put
a new dip tube in the sensor plate. I electrolytically de-rusted the
tank Thursday, since I had the port cover off, anyway. I drilled and
tapped a 1/2" drain in the bottom.

LLoyd