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Alternative Battery LR44
I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning
another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44. What was that other battery? P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions. On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too. I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. |
Alternative Battery LR44
In article ,
"Bob La Londe" wrote: I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44. What was that other battery? P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions. On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too. I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. I'm no battery expert, but for snots & giggles went to Radio Shack's web site and put LR44 in the search box... it returned this: http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...&origkw=lr44&s r=1 Good luck! Erik |
Alternative Battery LR44
On 2011-12-09, Bob La Londe wrote:
I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44. What was that other battery? Your choice -- SR44 or SR357 -- both are silver oxide, and interchangeable. And -- for ease of remembering, both are revolver magnum calibers. They cost more than the LR versions, but the nuisance value of the batteries dying frequently makes up for a lot. P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I've got a metric Starrett which I bought *new* back in the 1970s or so. (No, it is not for sale. :-) I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions. One of the reasons for digital calipers. On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too. I've not had one of those. Is that the one with the larger digits, too? I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. You let them play with the old cells, or the blister packs which they came in? it Could be bad news if they swallowed the cells. Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
Alternative Battery LR44
I can't comment on longer life, but I think AG-13 is the same. Any case, try
Ebay, or Froogle. They can't be that gosh awful expensive. Maybe HF has them? I got a cat laser that runs on two AAA cells, from Ebay. I have a lot of fun with it. I claim to use it for pointing at work, but it's really a cat laser. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44. What was that other battery? P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions. On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too. I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. |
Alternative Battery LR44
SR44 On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 18:44:22 -0700, "Bob La Londe" wrote: I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44. What was that other battery? P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions. On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too. I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. |
Alternative Battery LR44
On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 18:44:22 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote: I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. If cheap is your only requirement: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/analog-150mm-caliper-6199 Quality may not be the best, though. I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. You can get those the same place: http://s.dealextreme.com/search/lr44.html?category=400 -- RoRo |
Alternative Battery LR44
Bob La Londe wrote: I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44. What was that other battery? P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions. On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too. I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. Take the battery out of the caliper when you aren't using it and they will last a decent amount of time. |
Alternative Battery LR44
Robert Roland wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote: I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. If cheap is your only requirement: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/analog-150mm-caliper-6199 ... The problem with that one is it's 2mm per revolution. The bar is marked in cm with 4 ticks between each. So to get the mm you have to count ticks, multiply by 2 & add the dial reading. High resolution, but a nuisance. I'd rather rather have one with 1 cm per revolution. Bob |
Alternative Battery LR44
I believe it's been mentioned that the LR types are alkaline.. and IME, the
cheap ones often go bad just sitting in a drawer, but many have a short shelf life (unlike better quality AAA to D alkaline cells). I've bought the very cheap bulk, no-name, flea market LR44 10 or 20 packs from various sources in the past, and they were the worst. A couple of years ago the Big Lots stores started stocking a better variety of small cells, and I found the silver oxide SR44 cells in a blister pack of 5 for under $2.. but I think the cost was a little higher the last time I got a few packs. But the SRs are branded (not Ever/Dura) and have dates on the packaging, so it's fairly easy to see that they aren't just salvaged freight which may have been sitting around for a couple of years. These SRs far outlast even a brand-name LR cell. I put them in anything that uses 44/13 size cells. I take the digital caliper batteries out when I put it back in the case.. there are round cut-out holes in the foam to store them, or some cut-outs can be cut to hold 1-2 extra cells. Marking the battery cover with a bright paint pen helps to prevent it from getting misplaced. I keep intending to install a tiny switch (from a small LED light or other little gizmo) to be able to shut the power off when not using the calipers, but removing the batteries isn't so inconvenient.. losing the battery cover would be. -- WB .......... "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44. What was that other battery? P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions. On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too. I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL. |
Alternative Battery LR44
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Alternative Battery LR44
Edward A. Falk wrote:
By interesting coincidence, the son of a friend of mine took second place in a science fair by doing a study on battery life among different brands. The executive summary is that all the batteries supplied about 3 Watt-hours, but the Energizers are 3x the cost of the no-name Rhino and Tenergy batteries, about $0.20/Watt-hr vs. $0.08/Watt-hr. The Energizers last about 15% longer, but that is not enough to offset the difference in price. I just took a minute to look for LR44's on eBay. They sell for like $.10 each. I just paid $5 for one in the local CVS. I can't believe that the name-brand batteries are really 50x better than the no-name ones. I'll probably get gouged on the shipping, but it's still a much better deal. Beware of eBay cells. I bought a couple sets for my welding hood. They went flat very quickly. (They *were* cheep, though.) Pre-discharging is just another service we offer! The high-priced cells from my local pharmacy are still going strong. --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Wild_Bill wrote:
(...) I keep intending to install a tiny switch (from a small LED light or other little gizmo) to be able to shut the power off when not using the calipers, but removing the batteries isn't so inconvenient.. losing the battery cover would be. Little switches tend to die early. Ask Palm about that. :) I like an elastomer carbon button driven by a threaded knob that makes contact between the '+' side of the button cell and the caliper cell contact instead: | ---- Caliper | '+' contact ---- | /--------- -- Single sided .---. | |.--------. Flex PCB | | | || | interposer | | | || .. | P | | || || | o | /\/.-.|| || | w |-\/\/| ||| || | e | | ||| || | r | | | | || Caliper | | | | | Button || '-' contact | K | | | | || | n |-\/\/| | | Cell || | o | /\/'-' | || | b | | | || | | | | || | | | | || '---' | | '' | | | | '--------' (created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de) --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Very good idea, Winston.. it hadn't occurred to me to integrate something
into the battery cover, and your solution is ingenious in terms of simplifying the modification. I guess that's why I hadn't added a switch to the cable plug cover (on the top side), which would require removing material from the cover, opening the display housing and various other steps.. the big one being that the calipers still work reliably after being reassembled. -- WB .......... "Winston" wrote in message ... Wild_Bill wrote: (...) I keep intending to install a tiny switch (from a small LED light or other little gizmo) to be able to shut the power off when not using the calipers, but removing the batteries isn't so inconvenient.. losing the battery cover would be. Little switches tend to die early. Ask Palm about that. :) I like an elastomer carbon button driven by a threaded knob that makes contact between the '+' side of the button cell and the caliper cell contact instead: | ---- Caliper | '+' contact ---- | /--------- -- Single sided .---. | |.--------. Flex PCB | | | || | interposer | | | || .. | P | | || || | o | /\/.-.|| || | w |-\/\/| ||| || | e | | ||| || | r | | | | || Caliper | | | | | Button || '-' contact | K | | | | || | n |-\/\/| | | Cell || | o | /\/'-' | || | b | | | || | | | | || | | | | || '---' | | '' | | | | '--------' (created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de) --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Wild_Bill wrote:
Very good idea, Winston.. it hadn't occurred to me to integrate something into the battery cover, and your solution is ingenious in terms of simplifying the modification. Thanks, Bill. I guess that's why I hadn't added a switch to the cable plug cover (on the top side), which would require removing material from the cover, opening the display housing and various other steps.. the big one being that the calipers still work reliably after being reassembled. If you captured the battery cover to your CAD program, you could create a version of it that included a brass insert for a 3 mm screw. Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html Keep us posted, please. --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Heheh.. you funny, man. My CAD consists of a mechanical pencil and printer
paper. Software and I are mostly incompatible. A threaded shoulder on top of the cover wouldn't be too difficult with a salvaged brass insert from an old plastic-encased product, and maybe a little epoxy. In lookin over the sichyation, it looks as though the + battery terminal could maybe be trimmed and used like a switch contact with a little lever utilized to move a tab, to either (a) act as an insulator in the off position, lifts in the on position (b) move the contact away from the battery in the off position, move the contact to the battery in the on position. Your threaded solution wouldn't rely on the durability of the Chinese soldering, which is always suspect. One drawback I see to removing the battery between uses, is that the cavities can get dust/debris in there when the cover remains off. I can see this in the small caliper I keep stored next to my desk, which is a fairly clean area. Will do. -- WB .......... "Winston" wrote in message ... Wild_Bill wrote: Very good idea, Winston.. it hadn't occurred to me to integrate something into the battery cover, and your solution is ingenious in terms of simplifying the modification. Thanks, Bill. I guess that's why I hadn't added a switch to the cable plug cover (on the top side), which would require removing material from the cover, opening the display housing and various other steps.. the big one being that the calipers still work reliably after being reassembled. If you captured the battery cover to your CAD program, you could create a version of it that included a brass insert for a 3 mm screw. Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html Keep us posted, please. --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Wild_Bill wrote:
Heheh.. you funny, man. My CAD consists of a mechanical pencil and printer paper. Software and I are mostly incompatible. I was too, until I tried Rhino3D. Just another happy customer! A threaded shoulder on top of the cover wouldn't be too difficult with a salvaged brass insert from an old plastic-encased product, and maybe a little epoxy. Good Hack! If the knob were hollow on the back side, you could place the threaded area so that the knob almost completely encloses it. Clean. In lookin over the sichyation, it looks as though the + battery terminal could maybe be trimmed and used like a switch contact with a little lever utilized to move a tab, to either (a) act as an insulator in the off position, lifts in the on position (b) move the contact away from the battery in the off position, move the contact to the battery in the on position. Yup. I was considering using the flexibility of the PCB as a spring, with a double sided board in the area of the cell's + surface. Clockwise=on. Your threaded solution wouldn't rely on the durability of the Chinese soldering, which is always suspect. Yup. One drawback I see to removing the battery between uses, is that the cavities can get dust/debris in there when the cover remains off. Which is not nearly as aggravating as losing the cover. :) I can see this in the small caliper I keep stored next to my desk, which is a fairly clean area. Will do. This will be cool! --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 18:35:49 -0800, Winston
wrote: Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html Keep us posted, please. --Winston Off topic, but what's the paint called that you use to repair the carbon buttons when they fail, and where can you find it? RWL |
Alternative Battery LR44
GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 18:35:49 -0800, wrote: Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html Keep us posted, please. --Winston Off topic, but what's the paint called that you use to repair the carbon buttons when they fail, and where can you find it? Like this? http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html http://www.sandman.com/button.html I don't have any experience with it but the Large Print looks good. :) --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 14:53:26 -0800, Winston
wrote: Wild_Bill wrote: Heheh.. you funny, man. My CAD consists of a mechanical pencil and printer paper. Software and I are mostly incompatible. I was too, until I tried Rhino3D. Just another happy customer! Not all of us have ten Benjies to throw at a pencil problem. Anyone use BobCAD? One of the CNC kits of stepper motors + a Gecko G540 I'm eyeing on eBay has Mach3 and BobCAD v21 bundled with it. -- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark. In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach. The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand |
Alternative Battery LR44
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 22:11:53 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 18:35:49 -0800, Winston wrote: Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html Keep us posted, please. --Winston Off topic, but what's the paint called that you use to repair the carbon buttons when they fail, and where can you find it? The last place I saw it advertised was from a remote control monger. http://goo.gl/5KXEG $30-35 + s/h nowadays. Crikey! "keypad repair kit" was the key phrase search. -- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark. In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach. The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand |
Alternative Battery LR44
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:02:54 -0800, Winston
wrote: GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 18:35:49 -0800, wrote: Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html Keep us posted, please. --Winston Off topic, but what's the paint called that you use to repair the carbon buttons when they fail, and where can you find it? Like this? http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html http://www.sandman.com/button.html I don't have any experience with it but the Large Print looks good. :) I found some mo http://goo.gl/M1Sar Amazon $12.95 http://goo.gl/qEA3B eBay $5, and probably worth only that. -- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark. In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach. The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand |
Alternative Battery LR44
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 14:53:26 -0800, wrote: Wild_Bill wrote: Heheh.. you funny, man. My CAD consists of a mechanical pencil and printer paper. Software and I are mostly incompatible. I was too, until I tried Rhino3D. Just another happy customer! Not all of us have ten Benjies to throw at a pencil problem. Anyone use BobCAD? One of the CNC kits of stepper motors + a Gecko G540 I'm eyeing on eBay has Mach3 and BobCAD v21 bundled with it. I'm interested in your opinion of it: http://www.bobcad.com/demo?download=V24%20CAD-CAM --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:02:54 -0800, wrote: GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 18:35:49 -0800, wrote: Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html Keep us posted, please. --Winston Off topic, but what's the paint called that you use to repair the carbon buttons when they fail, and where can you find it? Like this? http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html http://www.sandman.com/button.html I don't have any experience with it but the Large Print looks good. :) I found some mo http://goo.gl/M1Sar Amazon $12.95 http://goo.gl/qEA3B eBay $5, and probably worth only that. I haven't experienced 'worn out' contacts yet. Gungy contacts, yes. A little scrub with naphtha on a cotton cloth restores operation muy pronto. Snap it back together and I'm good to go for years of reliable use. --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 06:04:39 -0800, Winston
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 14:53:26 -0800, wrote: Wild_Bill wrote: Heheh.. you funny, man. My CAD consists of a mechanical pencil and printer paper. Software and I are mostly incompatible. I was too, until I tried Rhino3D. Just another happy customer! Not all of us have ten Benjies to throw at a pencil problem. Anyone use BobCAD? One of the CNC kits of stepper motors + a Gecko G540 I'm eyeing on eBay has Mach3 and BobCAD v21 bundled with it. I'm interested in your opinion of it: http://www.bobcad.com/demo?download=V24%20CAD-CAM That's the demo of the newest version. What I refer to is probably the Express of the old v21, which is probably good enough for router services. Has anyone here used BobCAD v21 or v21 Express? I'd like to hear about your opinions and experiences. I once thought I'd won a copy after filling out an entry form for a raffle with a fresh copy as the prize. They called a week later and my heart stopped...until I found out that I hadn't won squat. They just wanted to see if I had $1,500 (a $700 savings!) to try it out anyway. I gritted my teeth, deleted my expletives, and said "Uh, no." -- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark. In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach. The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand |
CAD programs (was Alternative Battery LR44)
In article , Baron
wrote: Winston Inscribed thus: Larry Jaques wrote: (...) I once thought I'd won a copy after filling out an entry form for a raffle with a fresh copy as the prize. They called a week later and my heart stopped...until I found out that I hadn't won squat. They just wanted to see if I had $1,500 (a $700 savings!) to try it out anyway. I gritted my teeth, deleted my expletives, and said "Uh, no." Ouch. 2D CAD is worlds better than a drawing board IMHO. If you can buy a copy of Generic CADD from days of yore, you can use it's license number to get a huge discount on Visual CADD 6 ($150 instead of $450): http://www.visualcadd.com/ --Winston Draftsight runs on Linux and Winblows, and its free for personal use ! I stared out using Draftsight, but found the learning curve far too difficult. There isn't enough Draftsight documentation for a new user to figure it out, so I started reading the AutoCAD documentation, as Draftsight speaks perfect AutoCAD. It's *very* complex, with curliques accumulated over the years. So I talked to the MEs (mechanical engineers) at work. They said that AutoCAD dominates the Architecture field, where it started, but had a very long learning curve, and is 2D (with later 3D additions). Pro-E was used for large-scale projects (with millions of pieces), is 3D, but was impossible to use unless you used it for a living. What the MEs used and recommended for home use was Alibre, which is 3D from the start, and is a fairly clean new design. So I bought a personal-use copy for $200 or so, and made more progress in two weeks than I had made with DraftSight in many months. So, I abandoned Draftsight, and stopped reading the thick AutoCAD books. Joe Gwinn |
Alternative Battery LR44
I've gone to making plastic covers for all my IR remote controls (from
freezer bag sections). Most of the time my remotes would stay clean, except for dust and small debris from laying on the floor or table. A very long time ago, I mastered the use of a napkin, and when I'm eating while watching a movie I'm not constantly transferring food residue from fingers to remote. Some folks I've known, haven't adapted to that behaviorial modification, and their remotes essentially die from filth. One condition which causes button presses to require more 'n more pressure, even when they're kept clean, is that the face of the carbon pads become shiney. I used to scuff the pads just lightly enough to remove the shine, and they generally work fine (one of those pen-type fiberglas strands/bristles brushes, or a small strip of 400-600 grit abrasive paper). My remotes have essentially been maintenance-free since I've been making covers for them (ounce of prevention sorta thing). Remotes of years ago would often get slimey from the inside.. apparently it was the formula of the rubbery vinyl used for the buttons causing some compound to ooze out of the material. I haven't seen that type of contamination for a number of years. For many tasks, my go-to solvents are denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner/acetone when the material can tolerate it. -- WB .......... "Winston" wrote in message ... I haven't experienced 'worn out' contacts yet. Gungy contacts, yes. A little scrub with naphtha on a cotton cloth restores operation muy pronto. Snap it back together and I'm good to go for years of reliable use. --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Baron wrote:
Winston Inscribed thus: Larry Jaques wrote: (...) I once thought I'd won a copy after filling out an entry form for a raffle with a fresh copy as the prize. They called a week later and my heart stopped...until I found out that I hadn't won squat. They just wanted to see if I had $1,500 (a $700 savings!) to try it out anyway. I gritted my teeth, deleted my expletives, and said "Uh, no." Ouch. 2D CAD is worlds better than a drawing board IMHO. If you can buy a copy of Generic CADD from days of yore, you can use it's license number to get a huge discount on Visual CADD 6 ($150 instead of $450): http://www.visualcadd.com/ --Winston Draftsight runs on Linux and Winblows, and its free for personal use ! For fun just now, I visited their site and downloaded their 'getting started' flyer. It was like a HF lathe. Most the parts appeared to be there, but it was useless as shipped. :) --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Wild_Bill wrote:
I've gone to making plastic covers for all my IR remote controls (from freezer bag sections). Most of the time my remotes would stay clean, except for dust and small debris from laying on the floor or table. A very long time ago, I mastered the use of a napkin, and when I'm eating while watching a movie I'm not constantly transferring food residue from fingers to remote. A 'napkin' you say? I shall have to Google that. Sounds useful. (...) Remotes of years ago would often get slimey from the inside.. apparently it was the formula of the rubbery vinyl used for the buttons causing some compound to ooze out of the material. I haven't seen that type of contamination for a number of years. My friends at LG used to ship prototypes with feet made of recycled tires and sewage. They would mark any surface they were placed upon. Nasty. For many tasks, my go-to solvents are denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner/acetone when the material can tolerate it. If you can get it, naphtha is a miracle worker. It dissolves most petrochemicals and organics very quickly, without damage to plastics and without water or other residue. 'Only thing it cannot remove efficiently is dried food spatter. For that, this stuff is excellent: http://www.tilex.com/mold-and-mildew-remover/ It makes the front of my microwave look brand new with just a couple swipes. --Winston |
CAD programs
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...) I stared out using Draftsight, but found the learning curve far too difficult. There isn't enough Draftsight documentation for a new user to figure it out, so I started reading the AutoCAD documentation, as Draftsight speaks perfect AutoCAD. Ouch. I found Autocad to have a vertical learning curve. (...) What the MEs used and recommended for home use was Alibre, which is 3D from the start, and is a fairly clean new design. So I bought a personal-use copy for $200 or so, and made more progress in two weeks than I had made with DraftSight in many months. So, I abandoned Draftsight, and stopped reading the thick AutoCAD books. I feel your pain. After attempting Autocad and n+1 no-cost 'cad' programs, I stumbled across Generic CADD (Later Visual CADD). Suddenly, I could draw and print! That experience flattened the learning curve with Rhino3D. I've heard good things about Alibre, but never tried it. --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 11:20:41 -0800, Winston
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: (...) I once thought I'd won a copy after filling out an entry form for a raffle with a fresh copy as the prize. They called a week later and my heart stopped...until I found out that I hadn't won squat. They just wanted to see if I had $1,500 (a $700 savings!) to try it out anyway. I gritted my teeth, deleted my expletives, and said "Uh, no." Ouch. 2D CAD is worlds better than a drawing board IMHO. If you can buy a copy of Generic CADD from days of yore, you can use it's license number to get a huge discount on Visual CADD 6 ($150 instead of $450): http://www.visualcadd.com/ I had a free copy of TurboCAD3D moons ago. Then a free copy SmartDraw and Alibre, and I think one other. Now I have a free copy of DoubleCAD XT Pro 3. I haven't really had an urgend or specific use for them so I haven't put in the time to really learn any of them. I've found Corel Draw quicker for my uses, and will move to Sketchup once I've read the missing manual. g BUT, if I can get a free-ish copy with my entry into CNC, I'll do it. $555 (+$15.32 s/h) for three 640 oz/in steppers, a Gecko G540, 3 DB9 connectors and shells, latching red estop switch, 3 homing switches, 3 current-set resistors, a licensed copy of Mach3 and a licensed copy of BobCAD v21 isn't a bad price. I'll be halfway there to my own CNC router. But I want a copy of Vectric Aspire, too. Only $2k. -- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark. In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach. The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand |
CAD programs
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 12:59:01 -0800, Winston
wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: (...) I stared out using Draftsight, but found the learning curve far too difficult. There isn't enough Draftsight documentation for a new user to figure it out, so I started reading the AutoCAD documentation, as Draftsight speaks perfect AutoCAD. Ouch. I found Autocad to have a vertical learning curve. El Capitan should be so lucky. (For the unwashed, that's a sheer 3k' vertical cliff in Yosemite. ) (...) What the MEs used and recommended for home use was Alibre, which is 3D from the start, and is a fairly clean new design. So I bought a personal-use copy for $200 or so, and made more progress in two weeks than I had made with DraftSight in many months. So, I abandoned Draftsight, and stopped reading the thick AutoCAD books. I feel your pain. After attempting Autocad and n+1 no-cost 'cad' programs, I stumbled across Generic CADD (Later Visual CADD). Suddenly, I could draw and print! Cool. That experience flattened the learning curve with Rhino3D. That leaves just one other vertical cliff: the cost. -- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark. In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach. The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand |
CAD programs (was Alternative Battery LR44)
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Alternative Battery LR44
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:02:54 -0800, Winston
wrote: GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: Off topic, but what's the paint called that you use to repair the carbon buttons when they fail, and where can you find it? Like this? http://www.sandman.com/rubberb.html http://www.sandman.com/button.html I don't have any experience with it but the Large Print looks good. :) --Winston That looks like what I remember reading about. RWL |
Alternative Battery LR44
Some countries call it a nappy, check nappy first.
-- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Winston" wrote in message ... A very long time ago, I mastered the use of a napkin, and when I'm eating while watching a movie I'm not constantly transferring food residue from fingers to remote. A 'napkin' you say? I shall have to Google that. Sounds useful. (...) |
Alternative Battery LR44
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 11:20:41 -0800, wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: (...) I once thought I'd won a copy after filling out an entry form for a raffle with a fresh copy as the prize. They called a week later and my heart stopped...until I found out that I hadn't won squat. They just wanted to see if I had $1,500 (a $700 savings!) to try it out anyway. I gritted my teeth, deleted my expletives, and said "Uh, no." Ouch. 2D CAD is worlds better than a drawing board IMHO. If you can buy a copy of Generic CADD from days of yore, you can use it's license number to get a huge discount on Visual CADD 6 ($150 instead of $450): http://www.visualcadd.com/ I had a free copy of TurboCAD3D moons ago. Then a free copy SmartDraw and Alibre, and I think one other. Now I have a free copy of DoubleCAD XT Pro 3. I haven't really had an urgend or specific use for them so I haven't put in the time to really learn any of them. I've found Corel Draw quicker for my uses, and will move to Sketchup once I've read the missing manual.g BUT, if I can get a free-ish copy with my entry into CNC, I'll do it. $555 (+$15.32 s/h) for three 640 oz/in steppers, a Gecko G540, 3 DB9 connectors and shells, latching red estop switch, 3 homing switches, 3 current-set resistors, a licensed copy of Mach3 and a licensed copy of BobCAD v21 isn't a bad price. I'll be halfway there to my own CNC router. But I want a copy of Vectric Aspire, too. Only $2k. CNC is a ton of fun! You are gonna love it. --Winston |
CAD programs
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 12:59:01 -0800, wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: (...) I stared out using Draftsight, but found the learning curve far too difficult. There isn't enough Draftsight documentation for a new user to figure it out, so I started reading the AutoCAD documentation, as Draftsight speaks perfect AutoCAD. Ouch. I found Autocad to have a vertical learning curve. El Capitan should be so lucky. (For the unwashed, that's a sheer 3k' vertical cliff in Yosemite. ) (...) What the MEs used and recommended for home use was Alibre, which is 3D from the start, and is a fairly clean new design. So I bought a personal-use copy for $200 or so, and made more progress in two weeks than I had made with DraftSight in many months. So, I abandoned Draftsight, and stopped reading the thick AutoCAD books. I feel your pain. After attempting Autocad and n+1 no-cost 'cad' programs, I stumbled across Generic CADD (Later Visual CADD). Suddenly, I could draw and print! Cool. That experience flattened the learning curve with Rhino3D. That leaves just one other vertical cliff: the cost. I'm sounding like a broken CD here, but if you are enrolled at your local JC, you can get the student discount for Rhino. $195 instead of $995 is an insane bargain. --Winston |
Alternative Battery LR44
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Some countries call it a nappy, check nappy first. I'm much too old and slightly too young for a 'nappy check'. :) --Winston |
CAD programs
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 22:01:47 -0800, Winston
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 12:59:01 -0800, wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: (...) I stared out using Draftsight, but found the learning curve far too difficult. There isn't enough Draftsight documentation for a new user to figure it out, so I started reading the AutoCAD documentation, as Draftsight speaks perfect AutoCAD. Ouch. I found Autocad to have a vertical learning curve. El Capitan should be so lucky. (For the unwashed, that's a sheer 3k' vertical cliff in Yosemite. ) (...) What the MEs used and recommended for home use was Alibre, which is 3D from the start, and is a fairly clean new design. So I bought a personal-use copy for $200 or so, and made more progress in two weeks than I had made with DraftSight in many months. So, I abandoned Draftsight, and stopped reading the thick AutoCAD books. I feel your pain. After attempting Autocad and n+1 no-cost 'cad' programs, I stumbled across Generic CADD (Later Visual CADD). Suddenly, I could draw and print! Cool. That experience flattened the learning curve with Rhino3D. That leaves just one other vertical cliff: the cost. I'm sounding like a broken CD here, but if you are enrolled at your local JC, you can get the student discount for Rhino. $195 instead of $995 is an insane bargain. So are CA JCs. Up here, courses cost $130 per credit, with most courses 3+ credits, plus half a dozen extra college fees. I'd be back up to $995 in a heartbeat with 2 basic classes. But thanks for the thought. Welding and landscaping programs cost upward of $3k each here. I think a commercial course would be cheaper. My Adobe products cost $100 each as a dealer, but they stopped that practice. Now everyone pays outrageous prices. I never sold a single extra copy because online dealers beat my vendor (Ingram Micro and TechData) pricing every single time, and savvy buyers went there. -- However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. -- Sir Winston Churchill |
CAD programs (was Alternative Battery LR44)
In article ,
Doug White wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote in news:joegwinn- : snip I stared out using Draftsight, but found the learning curve far too difficult. There isn't enough Draftsight documentation for a new user to figure it out, so I started reading the AutoCAD documentation, as Draftsight speaks perfect AutoCAD. It's *very* complex, with curliques accumulated over the years. So I talked to the MEs (mechanical engineers) at work. They said that AutoCAD dominates the Architecture field, where it started, but had a very long learning curve, and is 2D (with later 3D additions). Pro-E was used for large-scale projects (with millions of pieces), is 3D, but was impossible to use unless you used it for a living. What the MEs used and recommended for home use was Alibre, which is 3D from the start, and is a fairly clean new design. So I bought a personal-use copy for $200 or so, and made more progress in two weeks than I had made with DraftSight in many months. So, I abandoned Draftsight, and stopped reading the thick AutoCAD books. I have Alibre, and use it occasionally for 3D stuff, but it's a bit buggy. If you don't apply constraints just right when aligning parts, it will disassemble things at weird angles. "Undo" works, so it's not fatal, but annoying. I haven't yet run into this, but I'm sure I will. Being buggy is normal with a "clean new design", and is the price for not having to learn all the eccentric curliques of a beloved product, now at release 781.0.50. For 2D, I use AutoSketch. When AutoDesk was getting their butts kicked in the 2D market by a program called Drafix, they bought them out, flushed their product & re-labled Drafix as AutoSketch. I've used it for everything for about 23 years, from laying out 44 GHz power amps to mapping the electrical wiring in my attic. The drawings are in Windows metafile format under the hood, so they import into Word & PowerPoint fairly seamlessly. The downside is that they layed off the development team years ago, and it hasn't entirely kept up with changes Microsoft has made in the metafile world. It's still my tool of choice for almost everything, in large part because I can do stuff in it very quickly. 23 years ago, I had never used a CAD tool before, and I don't recall having much trouble getting started. On the otherhand, I am still finding shortcuts for some operations. Version 9 is plenty good enough for most things, and being one release out of date, is available for short money ( $25 if you shop around). Not having 23 years invested in any CAD program, I want to start with a newer one that is actively supported, and grow older with it. Joe Gwinn |
CAD programs
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 22:01:47 -0800, wrote: (...) $195 instead of $995 is an insane bargain. So are CA JCs. Up here, courses cost $130 per credit, with most courses 3+ credits, plus half a dozen extra college fees. I'd be back up to $995 in a heartbeat with 2 basic classes. But thanks for the thought. Welding and landscaping programs cost upward of $3k each here. I think a commercial course would be cheaper. So get on the other side of the equation and let the JC purchase your discounted software, yes? Teach a 'beginning XTML' telecourse for your local JC/CC. Your local JC is swamped with folks who want to know this stuff! Looka he http://www.roguecc.edu/Schedule/?coursenumber=9.257 The course scheduled for January filled up quickly! --Winston |
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