Please advise a non-artisan (clueless about crafting) how to paint a
10-gallon milk/cream can.

It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust streak or two
blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.

I want to paint it red with Sherwin Williams exterior Ladybug red paint to
match my doors and a few other pieces of wooden furniture. (The house has
a Scandinavian tone... light woods with lots of red highlights). It will
then sit on an oak hardwood floor and hold cat-tails.

My plan is, wash the can with dish soap and water inside and out, dry it,
scrape at the rust around the bottom with a wire brush and maybe sand
paper, prime the whole thing somehow, and paint it.

My questions/concerns:

Do I need to put something on the bottom or maybe even around the bottom
edge to protect the floor (from paint rub-off or rust leakage or
whatever)?

What do I use to prime the can so it will hold exterior housepaint?

Other concerns I'm overlooking?

Thanks if you can help.

RW

--
------------------------------------
"I trust, Miss Bulstrode, I can rely on your discretion."
"I wasn't sorted yesterday, sir."
http://cda.mrs.umn.edu/~webbrl/AnObedientHouse/

You didn't say how you plan to apply the new primer and paint. This is most
conveniently done with spray paint from pressure cans, and provides a neater
job with no brush marks. Krylon is the recommended brand; it is my
favorite, anyway. You can get it from the better hardware stores. Home
Depot used to carry it but they don't have it anymore. As far as a
protection for the bottom goes - consider cutting a round piece of stiff
cardboard (shirt stiffener, tablet back piece, etc) the exact size of the
bottom so it will provide protection but won't show. If you want to get
really fancy you could use green felt for the bottom.

Bob Swinney
"Rebecca Webb" wrote in message
...
Please advise a non-artisan (clueless about crafting) how to paint a
10-gallon milk/cream can.

It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust streak or two
blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.

I want to paint it red with Sherwin Williams exterior Ladybug red paint to
match my doors and a few other pieces of wooden furniture. (The house has
a Scandinavian tone... light woods with lots of red highlights). It will
then sit on an oak hardwood floor and hold cat-tails.

My plan is, wash the can with dish soap and water inside and out, dry it,
scrape at the rust around the bottom with a wire brush and maybe sand
paper, prime the whole thing somehow, and paint it.

My questions/concerns:

Do I need to put something on the bottom or maybe even around the bottom
edge to protect the floor (from paint rub-off or rust leakage or
whatever)?

What do I use to prime the can so it will hold exterior housepaint?

Other concerns I'm overlooking?

Thanks if you can help.

RW

--
------------------------------------
"I trust, Miss Bulstrode, I can rely on your discretion."
"I wasn't sorted yesterday, sir."
http://cda.mrs.umn.edu/~webbrl/AnObedientHouse/

Rebecca Webb wrote:
Please advise a non-artisan (clueless about crafting) how to paint a
10-gallon milk/cream can.

It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust streak or two
blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.

I want to paint it red with Sherwin Williams exterior Ladybug red paint to
match my doors and a few other pieces of wooden furniture. (The house has
a Scandinavian tone... light woods with lots of red highlights). It will
then sit on an oak hardwood floor and hold cat-tails.

My plan is, wash the can with dish soap and water inside and out, dry it,
scrape at the rust around the bottom with a wire brush and maybe sand
paper, prime the whole thing somehow, and paint it.

My questions/concerns:

Do I need to put something on the bottom or maybe even around the bottom
edge to protect the floor (from paint rub-off or rust leakage or
whatever)?

What do I use to prime the can so it will hold exterior housepaint?

Other concerns I'm overlooking?

Thanks if you can help.

RW


Let chemicals do the work. Paint remover/stripper might be a good idea
if the old paint didn't bond well originally (seems to be the case, if
it's flaking off). It will leave a clean surface for a good bond with
the new paint, probably no primer needed.
The next chemical is Rust Convertor, or RustAway (one or the other).
Available at most good hardware stores, it converts rust to a black
oxide ready for painting. It would be in the automotive dept.
A really important area to cover would be the inside bottom, especially
inside the seam between the bottom and sides. Work the stuff in there as
best you can.
If you want to use a primer, one spray can of auto body primer should
cover it--maybe two.
For floor protection, I can think of two ideas--one, get some soft
rubber tubing, slit it lengthwise, and push it on the bottom lip all
around. Maybe you can get red tubing somewhere?
Two, go to the Walmart crafts section or a crafts supply and get a
couple sheets of Foamies, or FunnyFoam with peel-off backing. It's thin
and molds around corners, really neat stuff--comes in all colors. Cut
into 1" strips, and wrap around the bottom with 1/2" remaining to fold
around the bottom edge. Or if you cut the strips accurately (paper
cutter) you can start on the inside of the bottom rim, against the
bottom--then wrap around to the outside so hopefully it ends up even all
around. It should stick good on a fresh coat of paint--after it dries of
course, but before finger oils and such contaminate the surfaces.


Ken Grunke
SW Wisconsin
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/
Member, Coulee Region Woodturners AAW chapter
http://www.crwoodturner.com/



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 08:54:33 -0500, (Rebecca Webb) wrote:

||Please advise a non-artisan (clueless about crafting) how to paint a
||10-gallon milk/cream can.
||
||It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust streak or two
||blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.

||My plan is, wash the can with dish soap and water inside and out, dry it,
||scrape at the rust around the bottom with a wire brush and maybe sand
||paper, prime the whole thing somehow, and paint it.

||Do I need to put something on the bottom or maybe even around the bottom
||edge to protect the floor (from paint rub-off or rust leakage or
||whatever)?

You need to kill the rust completely and permanently, or it will be back,
bubblng the paint in a couple years. You can get a product at a hardware store
called "Extend", offered under the Permatex or Duro label, perhaps others.
Wire-brush off the loose scale, then shoot Extend on it, aerosol or liquid. It
will turn the rust into a dark, inert 'primer' which will take paint. After
this I'd use an aerosol primer with some rust preventative, like Rustoleam.
Then apply your final paint coat.



Texas Parts Guy

Rebecca Webb typed:
Please advise a non-artisan (clueless about crafting) how to
paint a 10-gallon milk/cream can.

It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust streak
or two blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.

I want to paint it red with Sherwin Williams exterior Ladybug
red paint to match my doors and a few other pieces of wooden
furniture. (The house has a Scandinavian tone... light woods
with lots of red highlights). It will then sit on an oak
hardwood floor and hold cat-tails.

My plan is, wash the can with dish soap and water inside and
out, dry it, scrape at the rust around the bottom with a wire
brush and maybe sand paper, prime the whole thing somehow, and
paint it.

My questions/concerns:
Do I need to put something on the bottom or maybe even around
the bottom edge to protect the floor (from paint rub-off or
rust leakage or whatever)?
What do I use to prime the can so it will hold exterior
housepaint?
Other concerns I'm overlooking?
Thanks if you can help.
RW

Rebecca,
I guess my first question of you:
Is the milk can made of stainless steel or is it hot tin dipped steel.
If it is stainless (most are, unless it is over 40 or 50 years old) it
needs to be treated differently.

PJ

Is the milk can made of stainless steel or is it hot tin dipped steel.
If it is stainless (most are, unless it is over 40 or 50 years old) it
needs to be treated differently.

I don't know! It's pretty heavy...

Thanks, everyone, for the replies! Very educational!

RW

--
------------------------------------
"I trust, Miss Bulstrode, I can rely on your discretion."
"I wasn't sorted yesterday, sir."
http://cda.mrs.umn.edu/~webbrl/AnObedientHouse/

|| It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust streak
|| or two blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.

||I guess my first question of you:
||Is the milk can made of stainless steel or is it hot tin dipped steel.
||PJ

If it's rusty, it can't very well be stainless, can it?
Texas Parts Guy

PJ wrote:
Is the milk can made of stainless steel or is it hot tin
dipped steel. If it is stainless (most are, unless it is over
40 or 50 years old) it needs to be treated differently.

Rebecca typed:
I don't know! It's pretty heavy...
Thanks, everyone, for the replies! Very educational!


Just a follow up thought... You might try to remove all of the rust by
using a product called "Bar Keepers Friend". It is a powdered
product - scouring powder for stainless.. You can get it in your local
market or at Wall-Mart.. It is Stainless Steel friendly and will
passivate stainless so that it will not rust. (Excellent for your sink
and pots and pans.. I use it all the time..) It will not hurt most
other metals in any way. Using that product will prep the metal for a
good base coat of primer and paint. AND - as suggested by Robert -
Krylon is an excellent spray paint to prep and finish your container.

HTH,
PJ

Rex B typed:
It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust
streak or two blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.

I guess my first question of you:
Is the milk can made of stainless steel or is it hot tin
dipped steel. PJ

If it's rusty, it can't very well be stainless, can it?
Texas Parts Guy

Hey Texas Parts Guy,

No disrespect intended or implied.. Stainless can and will rust.
Chlorine will do that job in a hurry as well as some other products.
I'm a brewer (wine & beer) and use stainless containers all the time.
If the surface of the stainless is compromised , it needs to be
re-passivated to keep it from rusting further.

Check this web site:
http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB-1.html
John Palmer (the author) is a metallurgist. His page gives a lot of
info about stainless and the "problems" with it.

Hey.. I'm not trying to be difficult or to disrespect your opinion.

Thanks,
PJ

On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 19:28:09 -0400, "PJ" wrote:

||Rex B typed:
|| It's currently rusty around the bottom rim with a rust
|| streak or two blemishing the current (flaking) paint job.
||
|| I guess my first question of you:
|| Is the milk can made of stainless steel or is it hot tin
|| dipped steel. PJ
||
|| If it's rusty, it can't very well be stainless, can it?
|| Texas Parts Guy
||
||Hey Texas Parts Guy,
||
||No disrespect intended or implied.. Stainless can and will rust.
||Chlorine will do that job in a hurry as well as some other products.
||I'm a brewer (wine & beer) and use stainless containers all the time.
||If the surface of the stainless is compromised , it needs to be
||re-passivated to keep it from rusting further.
||
||Check this web site:
|| http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB-1.html
||John Palmer (the author) is a metallurgist. His page gives a lot of
||info about stainless and the "problems" with it.
||
||Hey.. I'm not trying to be difficult or to disrespect your opinion.
||
||Thanks,
||PJ

No offense taken, it was a question that could have been phrased better.
Thanks for the info.

Texas Parts Guy