I want to make some half cylinder wall sconces for outdoor lighting. Maybe
even some full tubes.

Can I get a roller that will do that like the cheapie ring rollers at HF?

Can I make some? I have a BUNCH of rollers that come from those material
handling rolling frames that are around 1.5" OD, and can use one for about
12" materials, and weld a few together for more.

Or I could buy some pipe and make a roller. Does that require two or three
pieces to roll?

Help appreciated.

What's it called?

Sorry I have to ask questions, but I don't know everything.

Yet.

Steve

Steve B wrote:
...

What's it called?

A "slip roller" or "slip rolls"

Here's one DIY:
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rolls/rolls.html

Vince Gingery has a little how-to book for one. See Lindsy's (sp) books.

I captured this pic from a video:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/SlipRoll.png (700kB, sorry)
It has a different layout and uses cranks to link the 2 driving rolls,
which I like.

Bob

On Thu, 26 May 2011 17:31:13 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Vince Gingery has a little how-to book for one. See Lindsy's (sp) books.
http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/slip/index.html


-- Unka George (George McDuffee)
...............................
The past is a foreign country;
they do things differently there.
L. P. Hartley (1895-1972), British author.
The Go-Between, Prologue (1953).

On May 26, 9:59*am, "Steve B" wrote:
I want to make some half cylinder wall sconces for outdoor lighting. *Maybe
even some full tubes.

Can I get a roller that will do that like the cheapie ring rollers at HF?

Can I make some? *I have a BUNCH of rollers that come from those material
handling rolling frames that are around 1.5" OD, and can use one for about
12" materials, and weld a few together for more.

Or I could buy some pipe and make a roller. *Does that require two or three
pieces to roll?
...
Steve

A series of shallow straight bends doesn't look bad and may be easier
to do. I'd clamp some steel angle to the top of a sawhorse, corner up,
for the lower die and saw a wide groove in the edge of a 2x4 for the
upper one. That way you can line up pencil marks for the bends with
the corner of the angle. Uprights clamped to the sawhorse to guide the
upper die would help a lot. Use a coffee can or such as the gage to
get all the bends about equal.

I bought a 30" 3-in-1 machine because I don't have space for separate
shear and finger brake.:
http://image.made-in-china.com/4f0j0...ng-Machine.jpg

The rolls are about 1.5" diameter, not quite stiff enough to roll full-
width 1/16" 6061 aluminum properly. Two rolls squeeze together to grab
the work and drive it over the third, which you raise or lower
experimentally to force the desired curvature. On this machine the
rolls run in bushing sleeves which the adjusting screws push against.
The sleeves slide in milled slots. It wouldn't be hard to make one if
you omit the roll release for removing closed cylinders.

This is a 40" brake I made to bend aluminum to cover my old wood
window frames:
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...33136395165634
And after making more convenient clamping cams:
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...33137678036386

When I showed it to a friend he said he had a 10' Tapco siding brake I
could borrow!

jsw

On Thu, 26 May 2011 17:31:13 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Steve B wrote:
...

What's it called?

A "slip roller" or "slip rolls"

Here's one DIY:
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rolls/rolls.html

Vince Gingery has a little how-to book for one. See Lindsy's (sp) books.

I captured this pic from a video:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/SlipRoll.png (700kB, sorry)
It has a different layout and uses cranks to link the 2 driving rolls,
which I like.

Hey, there's a mini-steamroller on your benchtop, Bob!

--
Education should provide the tools for a widening and deepening
of life, for increased appreciation of all one sees or experiences.
It should equip a person to live life well, to understand what is
happening around him, for to live life well one must live life with
awareness. -- Louis L'Amour

On May 26, 5:31*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
...
Here's one DIY:http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rolls/rolls.html

Vince Gingery has a little how-to book for one. *See Lindsy's (sp) books.

I captured this pic from a video:http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...oll.png*(700kB, sorry)
It has a different layout and uses cranks to link the 2 driving rolls,
which I like.

Bob

Very nice.

The 3-in-1 style roller supports might be easier if you have some
thick steel plates (28mm) lying around and can mill slots in it, then
drill and tap adjusting screw holes in line with the slots. The holes
would challenge the working range of my Clausing mill, but wouldn't be
difficult on a floor drill press. If you screw up and don't drill them
straight it's a more authentic copy.

The two clamping rolls are simply geared together, which works OK
because the max thickness sheet metal doesn't separate them very far.
The 3-in-1 design couldn't bend bar stock like the photo.

What's the steam-tractor-ish thing in the background?

jsw

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
....

I captured this pic from a video:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/SlipRoll.png ...

I guess that I was a bit misleading: that's not my roll/roller - it was
a YouTube video that I captured it from cause I liked the crank-and-link
arrangement. I think the video was about making a wheel for something &
the roller was used to make the "tire".

Bob

On May 26, 7:14*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

I captured this pic from a video:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/SlipRoll.png*...

I guess that I was a bit misleading: that's not my roll/roller - it was
a YouTube video that I captured it from cause I liked the crank-and-link
arrangement. *I think the video was about making a wheel for something &
the roller was used to make the "tire".

Bob

OK.

It looks like he welded the cranks to the ends of the roller support
shafts. I TIG'd the retaining plates on my hydraulic loader's O-1
linkage pivot pins and had a problem with brittle cracking just beyond
the weld zone. When I annealed them enough to fix it the bearing
surfaces needed polishing.

jsw