I have a motor off of a table top drill press that had never been
used.

I wasn't going to risk hooking it up the AC and turning the drill on
because the motor had spent some time outside and I have no idea what
the condition is of the internal workings.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ressMotor2.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ressMotor5.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ressMotor1.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ressMotor3.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ressMotor6.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ressMotor4.jpg

I'd appreciate any pointers to sites that explain how to clean and
what to check on an electric motor like this.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

In article
,
Searcher7 wrote:

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...illPressMotor4
.jpg

Mark the end bells so that you will know which goes on the correct end
of the motor. Carefully take it apart. If it has ball bearings, and as
it appears, it has been damp they may have to be replaced. If sleeve
carefully clean them and old dry oil from the shaft and housing. If the
motor has been damp set it aside for a few days in a warm place or use a
hair dryer or heat gun to thoroughly dry it out. Check the starter throw
out on the armature to make sure it has not frozen up with rust, clean,
and lightly oil. Check the contacts on the end bell for corrosion and
burnish them gently. If you do not have a burnishing tool you may use
crocus cloth if you are very careful to clean up the residue. Reassemble
and you should be good to go.

CP

On Feb 15, 10:54*am, Pilgrim wrote:
In article
,

*Searcher7 wrote:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Tools/DrillPr...
.jpg

Mark the end bells so that you will know which goes on the correct end
of the motor. Carefully take it apart. If it has ball bearings, and as
it appears, it has been damp they may have to be replaced. If sleeve
carefully clean them and old dry oil from the shaft and housing. If the
motor has been damp set it aside for a few days in a warm place or use a
hair dryer or heat gun to thoroughly dry it out. Check the starter throw
out on the armature to make sure it has not frozen up with rust, clean,
and lightly oil. Check the contacts on the end bell for corrosion and
burnish them gently. If you do not have a burnishing tool you may use
crocus cloth if you are very careful to clean up the residue. Reassemble
and you should be good to go.

CP

I don't know what end bells are but I hooked it up and it definitely
works.(It runs smooth and quiet too).

The problem is that I don't yet know what I'll do with it because I
just found out that the motor pulley from the drill press has a 1/2"
diameter bore I.D. and this motor has a 5/8" diameter shaft, so I
couldn't finish putting it together. (This explains why the drill
press/motor had never been used before).

Turning down the motor shaft or boring out the pulley's I.D. seem like
bad ideas.

So if I find some more pulleys the question is do they have to match
each other and also do they have to be the same size as the
originals.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7 wrote:
On Feb 15, 10:54*am, Pilgrim wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Tools/DrillPr...
.jpg

Mark the end bells so that you will know which goes on the correct end
of the motor. Carefully take it apart. If it has ball bearings, and as
it appears, it has been damp they may have to be replaced. If sleeve
carefully clean them and old dry oil from the shaft and housing. If the
motor has been damp set it aside for a few days in a warm place or use a
hair dryer or heat gun to thoroughly dry it out. Check the starter throw
out on the armature to make sure it has not frozen up with rust, clean,
and lightly oil. Check the contacts on the end bell for corrosion and
burnish them gently. If you do not have a burnishing tool you may use
crocus cloth if you are very careful to clean up the residue. Reassemble
and you should be good to go.

I don't know what end bells are but I hooked it up and it definitely
works.(It runs smooth and quiet too).

They're those bell-shaped things that the shaft goes through that are
fastened to the ends of the motor.

The problem is that I don't yet know what I'll do with it because I
just found out that the motor pulley from the drill press has a 1/2"
diameter bore I.D. and this motor has a 5/8" diameter shaft, so I
couldn't finish putting it together. (This explains why the drill
press/motor had never been used before).

Turning down the motor shaft or boring out the pulley's I.D. seem like
bad ideas.

So if I find some more pulleys the question is do they have to match
each other and also do they have to be the same size as the
originals.

That's entirely up to you. They _do_ have to match the belt, of course,
put pick whatever size gives you the speed ratio you want.

Have Fun!
Rich

Searcher7 wrote:
...
So if I find some more pulleys the question is do they have to match
each other and also do they have to be the same size as the
originals.

They don't have to match exactly, but there is this consideration: the
sum of the diameters of the driver & driven pulleys should be the same
for all steps. That is, if Df1 is the diameter of the lowest (1st) step
of the front/driven pulley, and Db1 the diameter of the 1st step of the
back/driver pulley, then:

Df1 + Db1 = Df2 + Db2 = Df3 + Db3 = Df4 + Db4

If this isn't so then the length of the required belt will be different
between steps. If changing the speed involves re-adjusting the belt
tension, then this will not be as important. I.e., differing belt
distances can be accounted for, to some extent, in the adjustment. In
some drill presses the motor position is fixed and the belt distance
must be the same for all steps.

HTH,
Bob

On Feb 15, 10:09*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:
...
So if I find some more pulleys the question is do they have to match
each other and *also do they have to be the same size as the
originals.

They don't have to match exactly, but there is this consideration: *the
sum of the diameters of the driver & driven pulleys should be the same
for all steps. *That is, if Df1 is the diameter of the lowest (1st) step
of the front/driven pulley, and Db1 the diameter of the 1st step of the
back/driver pulley, then:

Df1 + Db1 = Df2 + Db2 = Df3 + Db3 = Df4 + Db4

If this isn't so then the length of the required belt will be different
between steps. *If changing the speed involves re-adjusting the belt
tension, then this will not be as important. *I.e., differing belt
distances can be accounted for, to some extent, in the adjustment. In
some drill presses the motor position is fixed and the belt distance
must be the same for all steps.

HTH,
Bob

I do know that the belt tension is adjusted by movement of the motor
forward and aft.

I think I'd need to get matching pulleys. And for me a large
difference between the top and bottom steps of the pulley are more
important than the number of steps.

And I'm not sure how they are actually measured. I measured the 5 step
motor pulley I have using a string. I wrapped the string around the
inside of the largest step and came up with 8-1/2" in circumference.
The smallest step gave me 3" in circumference.

So the circumference divided by Pi gives me the following for all 5
steps starting at the top:

3" = 0.95492"
4-3/8" = 1.39260"
5-3/4" = 1.83028"
7-1/8" = 2.26795"
8-1/2" = 2.70563"

Or to do this another way. Starting at the top there are six rims. The
first two are the same:

1-7/16"
1-11/16"
2-1/8"
2-7/16"
2-7/8"
2-7/8"

(The pulley has a height of 2-2/3". And the pulley belt that came with
the drill press says Mountain M-30).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7 wrote:
....
I think I'd need to get matching pulleys. And for me a large
difference between the top and bottom steps of the pulley are more
important than the number of steps.

Sears had a drill press with an 8-step pulley, running a very small belt
- about 5/16". This allowed many more steps than otherwise, and also
allowed a very small diameter pulley and the consequent high speed (8500
rpm). Sears might still have the parts, although expensively.

And I'm not sure how they are actually measured. ...

The correct measurement is the "pitch" diameter. This is the distance
that the belt moves in one revolution of the pulley (divided by Pi).
It's different from both the inside diameter and the flange diameter
because the belt rides on the sides of the pulley.

To measure it, place the belt on the pulley and mark both the belt and
pulley at the same spot (chalk is good). Rotate the pulley "exactly" 1
revolution and mark the belt again, at the mark on the pulley. The
pitch circumference is the distance between the marks on the belt.
Neat, eh?

HTH,
Bob

On Feb 16, 2:22*am, Searcher7 wrote:
....
And I'm not sure how they are actually measured. ...
Darren Harris

The non-stretching cords that give vee belts their tensile strength
are just below the surface on the wide side, so that's the nominal
length and the effective pulley diameter is measured where the wide
side rides in the groove. The soft narrower part of the belt expands
sideways when compressed lengthwise as it wraps around the pulley and
greatly increases the grip.

In practice you only need about three speeds, slow for large holes,
real fast for tiny ones and moderate for everything else. I run at 600
RPM for 1/16" through 1/2" holes, in wood, plastic or steel. For
larger holes I change to 180 RPM, for smaller 3250, and almost never
use the other three speeds.

jsw

Searcher7 Inscribed thus:

On Feb 15, 10:54Â*am, Pilgrim wrote:
In article
,

Searcher7 wrote:

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Tools/DrillPr...
.jpg

Mark the end bells so that you will know which goes on the correct
end of the motor. Carefully take it apart. If it has ball bearings,
and as it appears, it has been damp they may have to be replaced. If
sleeve carefully clean them and old dry oil from the shaft and
housing. If the motor has been damp set it aside for a few days in a
warm place or use a hair dryer or heat gun to thoroughly dry it out.
Check the starter throw out on the armature to make sure it has not
frozen up with rust, clean, and lightly oil. Check the contacts on
the end bell for corrosion and burnish them gently. If you do not
have a burnishing tool you may use crocus cloth if you are very
careful to clean up the residue. Reassemble and you should be good to
go.

CP

I don't know what end bells are but I hooked it up and it definitely
works.(It runs smooth and quiet too).

The problem is that I don't yet know what I'll do with it because I
just found out that the motor pulley from the drill press has a 1/2"
diameter bore I.D. and this motor has a 5/8" diameter shaft, so I
couldn't finish putting it together. (This explains why the drill
press/motor had never been used before).

Turning down the motor shaft or boring out the pulley's I.D. seem like
bad ideas.

So if I find some more pulleys the question is do they have to match
each other and also do they have to be the same size as the
originals.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Normally both pulleys are identical ! One is mounted inverted !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On Feb 16, 9:40*am, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:

...

I think I'd need to get matching pulleys. And for me a large
difference between the top and bottom steps of the pulley are more
important than the number of steps.

Sears had a drill press with an 8-step pulley, running a very small belt
* - about 5/16". *This allowed many more steps than otherwise, and also
allowed a very small diameter pulley and the consequent high speed (8500
rpm). *Sears might still have the parts, although expensively.

And I'm not sure how they are actually measured. ...

The correct measurement is the "pitch" diameter. *This is the distance
that the belt moves in one revolution of the pulley (divided by Pi).
It's different from both the inside diameter and the flange diameter
because the belt rides on the sides of the pulley.

To measure it, place the belt on the pulley and mark both the belt and
pulley at the same spot (chalk is good). *Rotate the pulley "exactly" 1
revolution and mark the belt again, at the mark on the pulley. *The
pitch circumference is the distance between the marks on the belt.
Neat, eh?

HTH,
Bob

Thanks.

I measure about 9" with the belt in the larger diameter step. (The
belt itself is just over 30 inches).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7 wrote:
I measure about 9" with the belt in the larger diameter step. (The
belt itself is just over 30 inches).

That's only a 2.9" diameter ... pretty small for the largest step. But
you measured the bottom diameter as 2.7.

Looking back at your earlier post, I see the smallest step is .95"
diameter ... you must have one of those mini belts, to be able to wrap
around such a small pulley.

Your min & max ratios are .95/2.7 & 2.7/.95 or .35 & 2.84. With a 1725
rpm motor, your spindle min & max would be 600 & 4900. 600 is pretty
high for a minimum speed. But you wanted a high max speed, so there you
are.

Bob

Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 16, 2:22*am, Searcher7 wrote:
....
And I'm not sure how they are actually measured. ...
Darren Harris

The non-stretching cords that give vee belts their tensile strength
are just below the surface on the wide side, so that's the nominal
length and the effective pulley diameter is measured where the wide
side rides in the groove. The soft narrower part of the belt expands
sideways when compressed lengthwise as it wraps around the pulley and
greatly increases the grip.

In practice you only need about three speeds, slow for large holes,
real fast for tiny ones and moderate for everything else. I run at 600
RPM for 1/16" through 1/2" holes, in wood, plastic or steel. For
larger holes I change to 180 RPM, for smaller 3250, and almost never
use the other three speeds.

Yeah - I have a 15-speed bike, and so far have used two of them. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

Steve Ackman wrote:
-0800, Rich Grise, lid wrote:

Yeah - I have a 15-speed bike, and so far have used two of them. ;-)

Yow! I have an 18-speed bike, and wish I had a
few more. Or at least a couple ratios lower than
what first is currently. 27:27.

Yesterday I rode 2.76 miles that started at 5540'
went down to 5395' then up to 5590' and back down to
start. There were some spots with really loose deep
sand, others with really steep climbs.

Sorry, I don't use my bike for self-punishment - it's for getting
from point A to point B, thank you very much. But knock yourself out,
if that's your thing.

Top gears get used once in a while too, but I'd
gladly have the whole set lower.

So, make some new sprockets!

Cheers!
Rich

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 18:09:37 -0800, Rich Grise
wrote:

Steve Ackman wrote:
-0800, Rich Grise, lid wrote:

Yeah - I have a 15-speed bike, and so far have used two of them. ;-)

Yow! I have an 18-speed bike, and wish I had a
few more. Or at least a couple ratios lower than
what first is currently. 27:27.

Yesterday I rode 2.76 miles that started at 5540'
went down to 5395' then up to 5590' and back down to
start. There were some spots with really loose deep
sand, others with really steep climbs.

Sorry, I don't use my bike for self-punishment - it's for getting
from point A to point B, thank you very much. But knock yourself out,
if that's your thing.

Top gears get used once in a while too, but I'd
gladly have the whole set lower.

So, make some new sprockets!

Cheers!
Rich


Just remember the big gear on the front and the little one in back are
for going down hills with.

On Feb 16, 6:14*pm, Steve Ackman
wrote:
In , on Wed, 16 Feb 2011 14:16:06
-0800, Rich Grise, wrote:

Yeah - I have a 15-speed bike, and so far have used two of them. ;-)

* Yow! *I have an 18-speed bike, and wish I had a
few more. *Or at least a couple ratios lower than
what first is currently. *27:27.
...

You might be able to replace individual sprockets to change the ratio.
I did for riding trails in the woods. The step between sizes can't be
too great or you'll have trouble shifting.

jsw

On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 21:07:33 -0700, Steve Ackman wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 05:58:09 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins, wrote:
On Feb 16, 6:14Â*pm, Steve Ackman wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 14:16:06 -0800, Rich Grise, wrote:
Yeah - I have a 15-speed bike, and so far have used two of them. ;-)

Â* Yow! Â*I have an 18-speed bike, and wish I had a
few more. Â*Or at least a couple ratios lower than what first is
currently. Â*27:27.
....
You might be able to replace individual sprockets to change the ratio.
I did for riding trails in the woods. The step between sizes can't be
too great or you'll have trouble shifting.

There's an idea. Get rid of the tiny 6th on the
face of the rear stack, move all of them out, and put a new larger 1st
in the back of the stack. My new 18th speed would still be equivalent
to my present 17th. The new 1st might not be as low as I'd like for
certain conditions, but it'd be better than what I have.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html has a lot of info about cassettes
and freehubs, and about 60% along has links to pages with specs for
available 7-8-9-10-sprocket cassettes. Eg, info about 8-sprocket sets
is at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k8.shtml, and that page has charts
of the teeth per gear of 8-gear sets of dozens of models from three
manufacturers. The "Building Custom Cassettes" sections near the end
of either page talk about how to mix and match with gears from 7-10
gear sets -- "For example, if you want a 13-32 9-speed, you can start
with a 12-27: Replace the 12 and 13 with a top-position 13. Add a spacer
and a 32 after the 27 (you don't need to buy the spacer, because you can
use the spacer that came between the original flat 13 and the 14.)"

The page http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/lowgears.html also talks
about chain-length and "B screw adjustment for cassette slope" issues.

If your bike has a freewheel cluster rather than a freehub with cassette,
the above won't apply.

--
jiw