Electricital question
 

I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery
and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

Steve

Electricital question
 

On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery
and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded
because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell.

Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what I'd do.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Electricital question
 

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She
said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law
isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and
all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type
fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release
when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that
solved the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v.
battery
and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse
is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the
terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have
corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell.

Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what
I'd do.

--

Tim Wescott

After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive
environment, I've lightly put
a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place
fuse, being careful not to infiltrate
the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far.
If necessary, later caulk removal
should be doable.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Electricital question
 

On 01/05/2011 11:29 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Tim wrote in message
...
On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She
said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law
isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and
all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type
fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release
when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that
solved the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v.
battery
and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse
is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the
terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have
corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell.

Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what
I'd do.

--

Tim Wescott

After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive
environment, I've lightly put
a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place
fuse, being careful not to infiltrate
the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far.
If necessary, later caulk removal
should be doable.

Just don't use the stuff that smells like vinegar -- that's acetic acid
you smell, and it'll promote corrosion as good or better than salt water.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Electricital question
 

In article ,
Tim Wescott wrote:

On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery
and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded
because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell.

Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what I'd do.



Just a quick thought about Microwave corrosion issues...

In my experience, if you insist that all foods/liquids be removed from
the oven immediately upon timer expiration, and always leave the door
open until the cavity is dry seems to greatly extend the lifespan of
these ovens.

If the cavity is especially wet, wipe it out and run the oven 3 or 4
minutes at power level 'zero'[1]... to run the fan/s sans magnetron.

Erik

[1] I've been told, (but don't know for sure) that running the fan/s
alone without the magnetron isn't possible with all microwaves.

Electricital question
 

On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 21:58:04 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery
and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

Steve



If there was enough "corrosion" on the fuse then it could have been
the problem. I wonder if by "corrosion" you actually mean something
corrosive got in there, or perhaps you just had a lot of carbon
buildup where it was turning kind of black. That could be caused by a
poor connection between the fuse and the fuse clip.

Electricital question
 

On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 23:29:03 -0800, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:

After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive
environment, I've lightly put
a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place
fuse, being careful not to infiltrate
the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far.
If necessary, later caulk removal
should be doable.

Conductive grease is another, probably easier, way, Edward.

--
Some people are like Slinkies ... not really good for
anything, but you can't help smiling when you see one
tumble down the stairs.

Electricital question
 

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 23:29:03 -0800, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:

After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive
environment, I've lightly put
a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the
in-place
fuse, being careful not to infiltrate
the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far.
If necessary, later caulk removal
should be doable.

Conductive grease is another, probably easier, way, Edward.

--
Some people are like Slinkies ... not really good for
anything, but you can't help smiling when you see one
tumble down the stairs.

LJ:

That's a good choice with the added asset of no worry about
compromising
the contact interface. Inadvertent grease transfer would be the only
reservation,
aside from not having the lube as handy as a caulk tube.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Electricital question
 

Good luck and good hunting!

I suspect you found the issue.

We have a toaster - those things that should last 20 years or more -
simple and reliable...

2 years and it is a bit bonkers. Tends to burn everything. Name brand.
I suspect a lower cost chunk of metal is getting bent. FA will occur
this week - beloved is at her sisters :-) But then there are downsides
also :-(

Martin


On 1/5/2011 11:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery
and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

Steve

Electricital question
 

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 23:57:27 -0800, Erik wrote:
Tim Wescott wrote:
On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. [...]
....
Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals
and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded
because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell.
....
Just a quick thought about Microwave corrosion issues...

In my experience, if you insist that all foods/liquids be removed from
the oven immediately upon timer expiration, and always leave the door
open until the cavity is dry seems to greatly extend the lifespan of
these ovens.

If the cavity is especially wet, wipe it out and run the oven 3 or 4
minutes at power level 'zero'[1]... to run the fan/s sans magnetron.
....
[1] I've been told, (but don't know for sure) that running the fan/s
alone without the magnetron isn't possible with all microwaves.

A couple of brands of microwave ovens turn on the light and fan
if you pull out lightly on the door -- ie opening an interlock
but not the door itself.

--
jiw

Electricital question
 

Boris Kapusta wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 21:58:04 -0800, "Steve B"

I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't
mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite
corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse.
Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you
push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved
the
problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop
conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v.
battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse
is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and
fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

If there was enough "corrosion" on the fuse then it could have been
the problem. I wonder if by "corrosion" you actually mean something
corrosive got in there, or perhaps you just had a lot of carbon
buildup where it was turning kind of black. That could be caused by a
poor connection between the fuse and the fuse clip.

I wonder if it's just condensed goo from cooking fumes.

Cheers!
Rich