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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she
had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. Steve |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote:
I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell. Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what I'd do. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
"Tim Wescott" wrote in message ... On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote: I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell. Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what I'd do. -- Tim Wescott After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive environment, I've lightly put a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place fuse, being careful not to infiltrate the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far. If necessary, later caulk removal should be doable. Regards, Edward Hennessey |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
On 01/05/2011 11:29 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Tim wrote in message ... On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote: I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell. Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what I'd do. -- Tim Wescott After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive environment, I've lightly put a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place fuse, being careful not to infiltrate the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far. If necessary, later caulk removal should be doable. Just don't use the stuff that smells like vinegar -- that's acetic acid you smell, and it'll promote corrosion as good or better than salt water. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
In article ,
Tim Wescott wrote: On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote: I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell. Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what I'd do. Just a quick thought about Microwave corrosion issues... In my experience, if you insist that all foods/liquids be removed from the oven immediately upon timer expiration, and always leave the door open until the cavity is dry seems to greatly extend the lifespan of these ovens. If the cavity is especially wet, wipe it out and run the oven 3 or 4 minutes at power level 'zero'[1]... to run the fan/s sans magnetron. Erik [1] I've been told, (but don't know for sure) that running the fan/s alone without the magnetron isn't possible with all microwaves. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 21:58:04 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote: I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. Steve If there was enough "corrosion" on the fuse then it could have been the problem. I wonder if by "corrosion" you actually mean something corrosive got in there, or perhaps you just had a lot of carbon buildup where it was turning kind of black. That could be caused by a poor connection between the fuse and the fuse clip. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 23:29:03 -0800, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote: After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive environment, I've lightly put a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place fuse, being careful not to infiltrate the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far. If necessary, later caulk removal should be doable. Conductive grease is another, probably easier, way, Edward. -- Some people are like Slinkies ... not really good for anything, but you can't help smiling when you see one tumble down the stairs. |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 23:29:03 -0800, "Edward Hennessey" wrote: After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive environment, I've lightly put a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place fuse, being careful not to infiltrate the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far. If necessary, later caulk removal should be doable. Conductive grease is another, probably easier, way, Edward. -- Some people are like Slinkies ... not really good for anything, but you can't help smiling when you see one tumble down the stairs. LJ: That's a good choice with the added asset of no worry about compromising the contact interface. Inadvertent grease transfer would be the only reservation, aside from not having the lube as handy as a caulk tube. Regards, Edward Hennessey |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
Good luck and good hunting!
I suspect you found the issue. We have a toaster - those things that should last 20 years or more - simple and reliable... 2 years and it is a bit bonkers. Tends to burn everything. Name brand. I suspect a lower cost chunk of metal is getting bent. FA will occur this week - beloved is at her sisters :-) But then there are downsides also :-( Martin On 1/5/2011 11:58 PM, Steve B wrote: I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. Steve |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electricital question
On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 23:57:27 -0800, Erik wrote:
Tim Wescott wrote: On 01/05/2011 09:58 PM, Steve B wrote: I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. [...] .... Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell. .... Just a quick thought about Microwave corrosion issues... In my experience, if you insist that all foods/liquids be removed from the oven immediately upon timer expiration, and always leave the door open until the cavity is dry seems to greatly extend the lifespan of these ovens. If the cavity is especially wet, wipe it out and run the oven 3 or 4 minutes at power level 'zero'[1]... to run the fan/s sans magnetron. .... [1] I've been told, (but don't know for sure) that running the fan/s alone without the magnetron isn't possible with all microwaves. A couple of brands of microwave ovens turn on the light and fan if you pull out lightly on the door -- ie opening an interlock but not the door itself. -- jiw |
#11
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Electricital question
Boris Kapusta wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 21:58:04 -0800, "Steve B" I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all. I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled. Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now. I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good. Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up. If there was enough "corrosion" on the fuse then it could have been the problem. I wonder if by "corrosion" you actually mean something corrosive got in there, or perhaps you just had a lot of carbon buildup where it was turning kind of black. That could be caused by a poor connection between the fuse and the fuse clip. I wonder if it's just condensed goo from cooking fumes. Cheers! Rich |
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