Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them
stick out on the open end.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

On Mon, 6 Dec 2010 01:31:25 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them
stick out on the open end.


You will be fine. I do it regularly. The HAZ is only a 1/4" or
so..maybe 3/16 at most unless you grind your way through as slowly as
you can.

Just wack the ways out and get on with it.

Gunner

--
"Confiscating wealth from those who have earned it, inherited it,
or got lucky is never going to help 'the poor.' Poverty isn't
caused by some people having more money than others, just as obesity
isn't caused by McDonald's serving super-sized orders of French fries
Poverty, like obesity, is caused by the life choices that dictate
results." - John Tucci,

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

If it is precision ground, it is probably hardened. In which case your options are limited.You could keep it cool with a water
spray during the cutting process.
Steve

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I
would distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63" piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit
long and let them stick out on the open end.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them stick out on the open end.



A "Thompson" shaft is case hardened so I grind a groove about 1/8" deep all
around with a cut-off wheel on a bench grinder and bandsaw cut through the
soft core. The HAZ is small enough that even a quick whack on a big chop
saw won't hurt it.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

On Dec 6, 2:31*am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. *If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. *I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them
stick out on the open end.

Are you planning to run the bearings ALL the way to the end?
You will not likely run into the very end that was cut off if you have
any margin in the design.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

"Cross-Slide" wrote in message
...
On Dec 6, 2:31 am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1"
precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them
stick out on the open end.

Are you planning to run the bearings ALL the way to the end?
You will not likely run into the very end that was cut off if you have
any margin in the design.

I have plenty of room for margin. About an inch of both ends goes in the
clamps, and I could always leave the HAZ beyond the clamps on the motor end.
I have plenty of room between them for the motor mount.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

--Wet abrasive cutoff saw will go thru it like butter and leave a
mirror finish, no distortion. I've got one in Santa Rosa; there may be one
in your neck of the woods?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Time flies like an arrow
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Fruit flies like a banana
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

Bob La Londe wrote:
Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1"
precision linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would
distort and ruin a portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the
hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them stick out on the open end.


Wrap both sides of the cut with really soaking rags, and it should limit
the heating to right around the cut.

Jon

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let them
stick out on the open end.



Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to worry about.

You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day to test case
hardness profile parts we make.

We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on the saw. Then
after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor.

WWW.LECO.COM


Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them
stick out on the open end.



Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to
worry about.

You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day
to test case
hardness profile parts we make.

We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on
the saw. Then
after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor.

Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or
other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow
speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were
designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw,
but I can't justify the cost just yet.

I am stuck with a variety of abrasive tools or a hack saw. Usually for
medium size stuff I use the chop saw. I use a cheap circular saw on stuff
that won't fit in the chop saw, and I use a hand piece with fiber disc
mandrel for smaller stuff. Its very rare that I have to use a torch
anymore, but once in a while I just can't get an abrasive saw in where I
need it. My hacksaw gets used even less than the torch.

Back to my application, I have about decided to do the water soaked rag
trick, and cut them an inch long leaving the HAZ on the outboard side of the
clamps. That way I'll also be able to grind a tiny little chamfer on the
end making transfering the slide onto them easier. If my rod ever gets
here.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

Bob La Londe wrote:

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1" precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them
stick out on the open end.



Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing to
worry about.

You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every day
to test case
hardness profile parts we make.

We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on
the saw. Then
after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor.

Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or
other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow
speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were
designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw,
but I can't justify the cost just yet.

Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't
especially expensive.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Bob La Londe wrote:

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1"
precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin
a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them
stick out on the open end.



Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing
to
worry about.

You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every
day
to test case
hardness profile parts we make.

We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on
the saw. Then
after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor.

Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide
or
other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at
slow
speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were
designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath
saw,
but I can't justify the cost just yet.

Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't
especially expensive.

Hmmm... I do have a really nice overhead tile saw with a moving table. I
had not thought of that since it spins as fast as most other saws. It's a
diamond grit blade. You think it would do the trick? I got it to cut
bricks when I made a walk between the shop and the house.

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

Bob La Londe wrote:
Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide or
other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at slow
speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were
designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath saw,
but I can't justify the cost just yet.

--FWIW there's one thing *my* wet abrasive saw isn't and that's slow.
I turn a 6" dia blade at 5,000rpm which works out to 7,500sfm more or less.
Kerf is pretty narrow: 1/16"; it's fun when the blades explode... ;-)


--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Time flies like an arrow
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Fruit flies like a banana
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

In article ,
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Bob La Londe wrote:

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1"
precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin
a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them
stick out on the open end.



Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing
to
worry about.

You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every
day
to test case
hardness profile parts we make.

We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on
the saw. Then
after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor.

Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide
or
other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at
slow
speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were
designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath
saw,
but I can't justify the cost just yet.

Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't
especially expensive.

Hmmm... I do have a really nice overhead tile saw with a moving table. I
had not thought of that since it spins as fast as most other saws. It's a
diamond grit blade. You think it would do the trick? I got it to cut
bricks when I made a walk between the shop and the house.

If it spins too fast, or there is too little water coolant, cutting
ferrous metal will destroy the diamond blade.

Joe Gwinn

Cutting Linear Motion Shaft Without Distorttion
 

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Bob La Londe wrote:

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1"
precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and
ruin
a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single
63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and
let
them
stick out on the open end.



Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so
nothing
to
worry about.

You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product
every
day
to test case
hardness profile parts we make.

We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch
on
the saw. Then
after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor.

Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with
carbide
or
other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well
at
slow
speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that
were
designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath
saw,
but I can't justify the cost just yet.

Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't
especially expensive.

Hmmm... I do have a really nice overhead tile saw with a moving table.
I
had not thought of that since it spins as fast as most other saws. It's
a
diamond grit blade. You think it would do the trick? I got it to cut
bricks when I made a walk between the shop and the house.

If it spins too fast, or there is too little water coolant, cutting
ferrous metal will destroy the diamond blade.

Its got a ton of water coolant, but it may spin too fast. After spending
half a day cutting bricks with it you are soaked from the waist up due to
incidental spray. Kind of a nice job to have on a hot day. LOL. I use
diamond blades in my 4.5" angle grinder for my day job when I need to make a
neat cut in stucco because it cuts the stucco fast and cuts the chicken
wire, but it does go through blades if I have a lot of it to do. Its worht
it though because of the speed and neatness of cut compared to other blades
or, YEESH! hand tools.