Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.

I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.

Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

I wrote an article years ago for an automotive magazine that said to do just
that - take your battery drill and remove the dead battery, add zip cord and
clips and use with the car battery

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.

I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.

Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:46:55 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack?

No, but I have, on a couple of occasions, cracked open the original
battery and replaced the cells inside.

Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours,

That must have been at least 20 years ago. I just bought some 4200mAh
NiMH ones. That is suspiciously high, though. Around 3000mAh is more
common.

Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

There's no point. Once the first cell dies, the rest are not far
behind. Also, an automatic charger could get confused if the battery
had a mix of fresh and old cells. In the long run, it's much better
economy to replace all cells at the same time.
--
RoRo

On 4/9/2010 10:47 AM, Robert Roland wrote:
On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:46:55 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack?

No, but I have, on a couple of occasions, cracked open the original
battery and replaced the cells inside.


I've done that a couple of times and have had great results.
Better than brand new!

That must have been at least 20 years ago. I just bought some 4200mAh
NiMH ones. That is suspiciously high, though. Around 3000mAh is more
common.

There's no point. Once the first cell dies, the rest are not far
behind. Also, an automatic charger could get confused if the battery
had a mix of fresh and old cells. In the long run, it's much better
economy to replace all cells at the same time.


--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/

cavelamb wrote:
On 4/9/2010 10:47 AM, Robert Roland wrote:
On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:46:55 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack?

No, but I have, on a couple of occasions, cracked open the original
battery and replaced the cells inside.


I've done that a couple of times and have had great results.
Better than brand new!

I looked at doing that once. The original cells were spot-welded
together with tabs of SS. How do you connect 8 individual Li-Ion cells?

You know, that would work fine, for 12 volt drills.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...
I wrote an article years ago for an automotive magazine that
said to do just
that - take your battery drill and remove the dead battery,
add zip cord and
clips and use with the car battery

On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 17:08:55 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

You know, that would work fine, for 12 volt drills.
9.6 and even 7.2 volt drills will run a LONG time on 12 volt battery.
A friend build a Zenith 701 using a 7.2 Makita on a 12 volt battery -
and that's a LOT of holes.

works fine on lower voltage too - I was using a 4.5V drill, no problems -
the back EMF builds rapidly

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
You know, that would work fine, for 12 volt drills.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...
I wrote an article years ago for an automotive magazine that
said to do just
that - take your battery drill and remove the dead battery,
add zip cord and
clips and use with the car battery

In my case it's only the lack of getting "a round toit" that keeps me
from it. I tore apart a dead battery pack for my 12 volt Dewalt drill
about a year ago, with that very plan in mind. I used to use that drill
to tap maple trees and I could get about 50 taps per charge. That's
drilling a 7/16" hole about 2 inches deep.
The idea is to simply strap a garden tractor battery to my back as I
tap the trees. I shouldn't have to go back to the trail to get a fresh
battery all day.

I would use something more substantial than zip cord, though. IIRC 16
wire isn't good for much over 4 amps. Why waste ANY power?--- I'd use
12 Ga extension cord wire.

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.

I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.

Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

In article ,
spaco wrote:

In my case it's only the lack of getting "a round toit" that keeps me
from it. I tore apart a dead battery pack for my 12 volt Dewalt drill
about a year ago, with that very plan in mind. I used to use that drill
to tap maple trees and I could get about 50 taps per charge. That's
drilling a 7/16" hole about 2 inches deep.
The idea is to simply strap a garden tractor battery to my back as I
tap the trees. I shouldn't have to go back to the trail to get a fresh
battery all day.

I would use something more substantial than zip cord, though. IIRC 16
wire isn't good for much over 4 amps. Why waste ANY power?--- I'd use
12 Ga extension cord wire.

Question of where you want to spend your effort on that use - I tapped
about 200 trees using a brace and bit - the old fashioned cordless
drill. I've also driven a lot of screws with them, including quite a
number when all the new-fangled drills in the area were waiting on the
charger. I'd much rather tromp around carrying & powering the brace and
bit than carry a heavy battery (or one of those gawd-awful gasoline
drills some folks just love.)

I also have a 12V drill awaiting the car-battery conversion - just don't
see using it for that job, considering.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Now, that sounds like a good device. And, good battery life.

As to AC power, I know 14 gage is rated 15 amps, so 16
should be 10 amps or so rated. DC? I really don't know.

Vehicle starting batteries don't like deep discharges. If
you do 25 holes between recharges. Your battery will last a
lot longer.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
In my case it's only the lack of getting "a round toit"
that keeps me
from it. I tore apart a dead battery pack for my 12 volt
Dewalt drill
about a year ago, with that very plan in mind. I used to
use that drill
to tap maple trees and I could get about 50 taps per charge.
That's
drilling a 7/16" hole about 2 inches deep.
The idea is to simply strap a garden tractor battery to
my back as I
tap the trees. I shouldn't have to go back to the trail to
get a fresh
battery all day.

I would use something more substantial than zip cord,
though. IIRC 16
wire isn't good for much over 4 amps. Why waste ANY
power?--- I'd use
12 Ga extension cord wire.

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------

On Apr 9, 5:08*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You know, that would work fine, for 12 volt drills.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Bill Noble" wrote in message

...
I wrote an article years ago for an automotive magazine that
said to do just
that - take your battery drill and remove the dead battery,
add zip cord and
clips and use with the car battery

Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have a 100 amp
deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a neighbor build a
storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I told him I
could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.

Jimmie

That's not fair!

(Fun, yes, but not fair...)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...

Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have a
100 amp
deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a
neighbor build a
storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I
told him I
could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.

Jimmie

What's that Lassie? You say that Stormin Mormon fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:46:55 -0400:

Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.

Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the battery packs
died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the contacts.
A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery, 12v 6Ah.

Draws a lot of power, about 20A.

I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.

Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker.

Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

You might find that the AA cell packs won't handle that much current.

--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

On Fri, 09 Apr 2010 15:16:13 -0500, RBnDFW
wrote:

How do you connect 8 individual Li-Ion cells?

You buy cells that have solder tabs welded to them. Just cut the tabs
to length and solder.
--
RoRo

Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.

Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the
battery packs
died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the
contacts.
A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery,
12v 6Ah.

CY: Now, that sounds good.

Draws a lot of power, about 20A.

CY: Did you measure it?

I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.

Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker.
CY: I can believe that.


Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

You might find that the AA cell packs won't handle that much
current.

CY: Well, that's very possible. I had not thought of that.

--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

On Apr 10, 12:46*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.

I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.

Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH *AA
cells, which are about 2,000. *could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill. If you have to put up with cables all
over the place, use a mains powered one. But I must admit, theres one
glaring exception - using a modded one to raise and lower the
stabilisers on your caravan/rv. Beats winding 4 of them by hand, cheap
enuff so theres no major drama if it breaks/goes walkies.
NiCads - here at any rate, they are too expensive to replace a pack
with brand name cells. Too much, considering the cost of a new drill,
usually with 2 batteries nowadays. (And salvage rights on the old ones
- )

And in a reply to your query re my post, I dont want the chuck, I
wanted the motor and the control electronics to build a power feed for
my mini-mill. Combining 2 net references - one guy used the cordless
drill motor and slightly modified the speed controls, another person
came up with a nifty coupling that could be easily engaged/disengaged.

Got the housing built, and the motor mounts as well, need to machine
the drive coupling to the mill lead screw. No precision, just power
feed and rapid traverse, so any slop isn't a problem....

Andrew VK3BFA

Andrew, would you share a link to the nifty coupler? I've seen some DIY
power feeds, but I haven't noticed a coupler that's easy to dis/engage.

Thanks
--
WB
..........


"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
...
And in a reply to your query re my post, I dont want the chuck, I
wanted the motor and the control electronics to build a power feed for
my mini-mill. Combining 2 net references - one guy used the cordless
drill motor and slightly modified the speed controls, another person
came up with a nifty coupling that could be easily engaged/disengaged.

Got the housing built, and the motor mounts as well, need to machine
the drive coupling to the mill lead screw. No precision, just power
feed and rapid traverse, so any slop isn't a problem....

Andrew VK3BFA

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:15:36 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA
wrote:

Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill.

Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus running
150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it really bypassed
the fundimental design?

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

The advantage is for example when you're replacing an
electric socket. The next nearest one is 20 feet away, and
you're going down the hall, changing sockets. Running a cord
is a PIA, but a short cord to a battery pack is fine.

Thanks for the note on why removing a chuck.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Andrew VK3BFA"
wrote in message
...


Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental
design
objective of a "Cordless" drill. If you have to put up with
cables all
over the place, use a mains powered one.


Andrew VK3BFA

I've had moments when I'm away from a power socket. But, a
short cord to battery pack would be no big concern.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:15:36 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA
wrote:

Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the
fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill.

Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus
running
150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it
really bypassed
the fundimental design?

Gunner

On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:11:09 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've had moments when I'm away from a power socket. But, a
short cord to battery pack would be no big concern.


Thats pretty much how I was figuring it as well.

After reading this thread..Ill be converting a very nice high end
Craftsman cordless drill to external battery pack. I picked it up at a
yard sale for $2. All three battery packs are stone dead and wont take a
charge.

Ill gut one pack, hook a long wire to it and connect to a battery. The
other two battery packs Ill save and perhaps rebuild when money gets
better.

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Now, that sounds like a good project. If you get a chance,
some pictures on your web site would be fun.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:11:09 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've had moments when I'm away from a power socket. But, a
short cord to battery pack would be no big concern.


Thats pretty much how I was figuring it as well.

After reading this thread..Ill be converting a very nice
high end
Craftsman cordless drill to external battery pack. I picked
it up at a
yard sale for $2. All three battery packs are stone dead and
wont take a
charge.

Ill gut one pack, hook a long wire to it and connect to a
battery. The
other two battery packs Ill save and perhaps rebuild when
money gets
better.

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

What's that Lassie? You say that Stormin Mormon fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:58:55 -0400:

Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.

Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the
battery packs
died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the
contacts.
A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery,
12v 6Ah.

CY: Now, that sounds good.
The whole rig is heavier, but it lightened up the drill a lot.


Draws a lot of power, about 20A.

CY: Did you measure it?

Yep. Current varies with load. 20A was the highest I got it with a
quick test. Might be more with a bigger load or different drill.
I think you could do some light drilling with a 10A limit.


I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.

Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker.
CY: I can believe that.

You can open them up and add heaver wire and a bigger breaker, or make
up a lighter socket that you can attach to the jumper clamps.


Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.

You might find that the AA cell packs won't handle that much
current.

CY: Well, that's very possible. I had not thought of that.

--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

JIMMIE wrote:
On Apr 9, 5:08 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You know, that would work fine, for 12 volt drills.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Bill Noble" wrote in message

...
I wrote an article years ago for an automotive magazine that
said to do just
that - take your battery drill and remove the dead battery,
add zip cord and
clips and use with the car battery

Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have a 100 amp
deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a neighbor build a
storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I told him I
could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.

My drill battery was a deep cycle group 27 that was no longer usable as
a trolling battery, but in it's crippled state it worked great for my
9.6-volt drill

That's very clever. Is it dificult to carry around?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...

Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have
a 100 amp
deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a
neighbor build a
storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I
told him I
could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.

My drill battery was a deep cycle group 27 that was no
longer usable as
a trolling battery, but in it's crippled state it worked
great for my
9.6-volt drill

I fixed all the drywall screws in my previous house with a Ryobi
battery drill, ran on the supplied battery until flat, then plugged in
a home made cable and a 12 V car battery. There was no mains power
until all the walls were completed. I also built all the kitchen
cabinets using the same drill. The benchtops were laminated 2 x 1
Jarrah, glued and screwed with the 2" vertical. Cupboard doors were
T&G matchboard inserted into a 3 x 1 external frame, 24 of them!

Alan

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

That's very clever. Is it dificult to carry around?

In a good backpack, probably not. It's only around 60 pounds.


--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...

Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have
a 100 amp
deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a
neighbor build a
storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I
told him I
could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.

My drill battery was a deep cycle group 27 that was no
longer usable as
a trolling battery, but in it's crippled state it worked
great for my
9.6-volt drill

Stormin Mormon wrote:
That's very clever. Is it dificult to carry around?


Yes, but I don't carry it far, just around the shop.
It's usually quicker to use than a corded 110V, and the cables are much
longer, and it has an adjustable clutch which I use a lot.

On Apr 11, 7:06 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:15:36 -0700 (PDT),AndrewVK3BFA

wrote:
Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill.

Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus running
150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it really bypassed
the fundimental design?

Gunner


Yep, for 2 reasons.....
Your a professional Gunner - it is expected you have a working
cordless drill. And if your going to drill more than a few little
holes, then you have to use a powered drill anyway.
Your power cables should be on reels for easy deployment/recovery
anyway, so its no great drama to run them out. In the back of your
truck, near the back door for easy access. I found that the plastic
spools that MIG wire comes on are great, fairly bit internal diameter
so don't crimp or stress the cable.

Andrew VK3BFA.

On Apr 13, 11:47 pm, John Husvar wrote:
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

That's very clever. Is it dificult to carry around?

In a good backpack, probably not. It's only around 60 pounds.



--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...

Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have
a 100 amp
deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a
neighbor build a
storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I
told him I
could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.

My drill battery was a deep cycle group 27 that was no
longer usable as
a trolling battery, but in it's crippled state it worked
great for my
9.6-volt drill

Your mad - lugging a 60lb pack around so you can drill holes???? - you
must be a lot younger and fitter than I..
Andrew VK3BFA.

On Apr 13, 9:40 pm, wrote:
I fixed all the drywall screws in my previous house with a Ryobi
battery drill, ran on the supplied battery until flat, then plugged in
a home made cable and a 12 V car battery. There was no mains power
until all the walls were completed. I also built all the kitchen
cabinets using the same drill. The benchtops were laminated 2 x 1
Jarrah, glued and screwed with the 2" vertical. Cupboard doors were
T&G matchboard inserted into a 3 x 1 external frame, 24 of them!

Alan

Thats good -works because you don't have to lug it around except from
room to room. Will mentally file that one away...
Andrew VK3BFA

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 20:52:21 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA
wrote:

On Apr 11, 7:06 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:15:36 -0700 (PDT),AndrewVK3BFA

wrote:
Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill.

Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus running
150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it really bypassed
the fundimental design?

Gunner


Yep, for 2 reasons.....
Your a professional Gunner - it is expected you have a working
cordless drill. And if your going to drill more than a few little
holes, then you have to use a powered drill anyway.

Why? Granted..I do have both professional grade cordless and wired
drills in my truck, some applications pretty much beg for long lasting
cordless drills. For example, putting together a steel shed kit.

I did that a year ago last November, prior to my medical issues. Took
me 12 hours of labor to assemble it. The shed was 150 feet from the
nearest power source so I used one of my 18vlt cordless drills. It
should have taken me 10hrs or less simply because I was running out of
battery regularly. There was no power on the site, I should mention as
well.

Doing further work, I had to bring one of my several gennies out there
and it was a pain in the ass to listen to it running 8 hrs a day. Not
to mention..the fuel and wear costs.

Your power cables should be on reels for easy deployment/recovery
anyway, so its no great drama to run them out. In the back of your
truck, near the back door for easy access. I found that the plastic
spools that MIG wire comes on are great, fairly bit internal diameter
so don't crimp or stress the cable.

Andrew VK3BFA.


And plug them into what? While I do have a 3000 watt inverter in the
van..I dont drive the van all that often. Not at 15mpg.

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On Apr 15, 3:17*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 20:52:21 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA



wrote:
On Apr 11, 7:06 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:15:36 -0700 (PDT),AndrewVK3BFA

wrote:
Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill.

Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus running
150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it really bypassed
the fundimental design?

Gunner

Yep, for 2 reasons.....
Your a professional Gunner - it is expected you have a working
cordless drill. And if your going to drill more than a few little
holes, then you have to use a powered drill anyway.

Why? *Granted..I do have both professional grade cordless and wired
drills in my truck, some applications pretty much beg for long lasting
cordless drills. *For example, putting together a steel shed kit.

I did that a year ago last November, prior to my medical issues. *Took
me 12 hours of labor to *assemble it. *The shed was 150 feet from the
nearest power source so I used one of my 18vlt cordless drills. *It
should have taken me 10hrs or less simply because I was running out of
battery regularly. *There was no power on the site, I should mention as
well.

Doing further work, I had to bring one of my several gennies out there
and it was a pain in the ass to listen to it running 8 *hrs a day. Not
to mention..the fuel and wear costs.

Your power cables should be on reels for easy deployment/recovery
anyway, so its no great drama to run them out. In the back of your
truck, near the back door for easy access. I found that the plastic
spools that MIG wire comes on are great, fairly bit internal diameter
so don't crimp or stress the cable.

Andrew VK3BFA.

And plug them into what? *While I do have a 3000 watt inverter in the
van..I dont drive the van all that often. Not at 15mpg.

Gunner

"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." *Grey Ghost

Sigh......maybe you need to look at your work practices, this is not
politics where ideology can excuse anything. Its 2010 Gunner - think
about how you do things.......
Andrew VK3BFA.

1st Law of Rightist Debate - find an obscure quote from someone who is
totally unknown, appropriate it for your own use. Bull**** baffles
brains, as we say here in OZ.

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 01:03:59 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA
wrote:

On Apr 15, 3:17*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 20:52:21 -0700 (PDT), Andrew VK3BFA



wrote:
On Apr 11, 7:06 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:15:36 -0700 (PDT),AndrewVK3BFA

wrote:
Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill.

Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus running
150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it really bypassed
the fundimental design?

Gunner

Yep, for 2 reasons.....
Your a professional Gunner - it is expected you have a working
cordless drill. And if your going to drill more than a few little
holes, then you have to use a powered drill anyway.

Why? *Granted..I do have both professional grade cordless and wired
drills in my truck, some applications pretty much beg for long lasting
cordless drills. *For example, putting together a steel shed kit.

I did that a year ago last November, prior to my medical issues. *Took
me 12 hours of labor to *assemble it. *The shed was 150 feet from the
nearest power source so I used one of my 18vlt cordless drills. *It
should have taken me 10hrs or less simply because I was running out of
battery regularly. *There was no power on the site, I should mention as
well.

Doing further work, I had to bring one of my several gennies out there
and it was a pain in the ass to listen to it running 8 *hrs a day. Not
to mention..the fuel and wear costs.

Your power cables should be on reels for easy deployment/recovery
anyway, so its no great drama to run them out. In the back of your
truck, near the back door for easy access. I found that the plastic
spools that MIG wire comes on are great, fairly bit internal diameter
so don't crimp or stress the cable.

Andrew VK3BFA.

And plug them into what? *While I do have a 3000 watt inverter in the
van..I dont drive the van all that often. Not at 15mpg.

Gunner

Sigh......maybe you need to look at your work practices, this is not
politics where ideology can excuse anything. Its 2010 Gunner - think
about how you do things.......
Andrew VK3BFA.


And what am I doing incorrectly? Be specific. Use as much white space
as necessary.

I notice you ignored the questions that I asked above. Was there some
reason for that?

1st Law of Rightist Debate - find an obscure quote from someone who is
totally unknown, appropriate it for your own use. Bull**** baffles
brains, as we say here in OZ.

Yes, after reading your posts for a number of years..Im quite familiar
with aussie bull****.

Now please answer the questions.

Gunner



"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch wrote:

Yes, after reading your posts for a number of years..Im quite familiar
with aussie bull****.


It does have a lingering stench, doesn't it?


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:12:45 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Yes, after reading your posts for a number of years..Im quite familiar
with aussie bull****.


It does have a lingering stench, doesn't it?

Indeed it does. Fortunately..the wind is usually blowing the other way.

But..I do have very fond memories of many I&Is spent in Oz and all the
marvelous women that ****ed me nearly out of my mind for free.

Too bad they couldnt get it from their old men..drunk as skunks in a a
pub somewhere.....tsk tsk tsk.

Gunner



"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:12:45 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Yes, after reading your posts for a number of years..Im quite familiar
with aussie bull****.


It does have a lingering stench, doesn't it?

Indeed it does. Fortunately..the wind is usually blowing the other way.

But..I do have very fond memories of many I&Is spent in Oz and all the
marvelous women that ****ed me nearly out of my mind for free.

Too bad they couldnt get it from their old men..drunk as skunks in a a
pub somewhere.....tsk tsk tsk.


Drunk as skunks and spraying for no reason.


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'