I am going through the VS countershaft assembly on the lathe and it
has two open ball bearings. They were filled with dried grease, which
I cleaned out.

I want to know what grease to use in them. I filled one with lithium
grease, but decided that it is still not too late to ask. I would say
that this bearing is not very stressed out, sees at most 3-4,000 RPM,
etc.

If anyone has any grease recs, let me know.

Thanks

i

If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for lubrication
in any service manuals.

--
WB
..........


"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
I am going through the VS countershaft assembly on the lathe and it
has two open ball bearings. They were filled with dried grease, which
I cleaned out.

I want to know what grease to use in them. I filled one with lithium
grease, but decided that it is still not too late to ask. I would say
that this bearing is not very stressed out, sees at most 3-4,000 RPM,
etc.

If anyone has any grease recs, let me know.

Thanks

i

On 2010-02-19, Wild_Bill wrote:
If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for lubrication
in any service manuals.


WB, this lithium grease I had for a few years and kept it in an open
container, and it did not dry. Nevertheless, I will take your advice
and I will get another grease, probably something at Autozone. The
grease that was in the bearings, probably since the lathe was built,
has dried out.

i

"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
On 2010-02-19, Wild_Bill wrote:
If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel
bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the
best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest
to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different
greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for
lubrication
in any service manuals.


WB, this lithium grease I had for a few years and kept it in an open
container, and it did not dry. Nevertheless, I will take your advice
and I will get another grease, probably something at Autozone. The
grease that was in the bearings, probably since the lathe was built,
has dried out.


I can't see it being terribly critical. I'd go with whatever car
wheelbearing grease that you have to hand. You're running a bit faster than
wheels, but those bearings can see a lot of heat from braking.

Any grease is going to collect dirt. Dryout might involve evaporation of the
oil phase in high temperature and/or windy applications, more commonly it
occurs because the oil separates out from whatever component is used to
thicken the grease (often a soap). Either way, periodic cleaning and/or
topping up is the answer. Can you fit any sort of shield (metal, rubber,
felt?) to keep dust away?

On 2010-02-19, newshound wrote:


"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
On 2010-02-19, Wild_Bill wrote:
If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel
bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the
best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest
to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different
greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for
lubrication
in any service manuals.


WB, this lithium grease I had for a few years and kept it in an open
container, and it did not dry. Nevertheless, I will take your advice
and I will get another grease, probably something at Autozone. The
grease that was in the bearings, probably since the lathe was built,
has dried out.


I can't see it being terribly critical. I'd go with whatever car
wheelbearing grease that you have to hand. You're running a bit faster than
wheels, but those bearings can see a lot of heat from braking.

Any grease is going to collect dirt. Dryout might involve evaporation of the
oil phase in high temperature and/or windy applications, more commonly it
occurs because the oil separates out from whatever component is used to
thicken the grease (often a soap). Either way, periodic cleaning and/or
topping up is the answer. Can you fit any sort of shield (metal, rubber,
felt?) to keep dust away?


This one particular bearing is hidden inside a certain hub. This is in
my lathe., which realistically will not see much service,.

i

OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may want to
make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple. Mine
is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I drilled
and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk fitting. Then I
cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the outer race; it's a
hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing between
the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill holes for
bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and it's
kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as quick as
typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from getting
inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings when you
re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.

--
Ed Huntress

On 2010-02-20, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may want to
make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple. Mine
is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I drilled
and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk fitting. Then I
cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the outer race; it's a
hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing between
the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill holes for
bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and it's
kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as quick as
typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from getting
inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings when you
re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.


Ed, I ended up using red synthetic Mobil-1 grease. The application is
the countershaft for the variable speed drive. RPM is from 700 to
perhaps 4000 or so depending on the speed selection, just guessing.
There is next to no radial load on the bearing. It just has to spin
and not get in trouble.

The countershaft assy is moderately easy to take apart. Takes perhaps
20 minutes from the start of the work to the assembly taken apart.

i

"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
On 2010-02-20, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may want
to
make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple.
Mine
is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I
drilled
and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk fitting. Then
I
cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the outer race; it's
a
hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the
other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing
between
the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill holes
for
bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and
it's
kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as quick
as
typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from
getting
inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings when you
re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.


Ed, I ended up using red synthetic Mobil-1 grease.

That's the same stuff I have in one of my grease guns now. I can't testify
about its performance, but it gets a lot of positive comments.

The application is
the countershaft for the variable speed drive. RPM is from 700 to
perhaps 4000 or so depending on the speed selection, just guessing.
There is next to no radial load on the bearing. It just has to spin
and not get in trouble.

Well, that should be easy to take care of, as long as you keep it clean.


The countershaft assy is moderately easy to take apart. Takes perhaps
20 minutes from the start of the work to the assembly taken apart.

i

That's a task, but see how it goes. It may save time in the long run to
grease it from time to time under pressure. Or it may last you a lifetime,
in hobby use.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:
"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may want to
make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple. Mine
is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I drilled
and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk fitting. Then I
cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the outer race; it's a
hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing between
the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill holes for
bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and it's
kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as quick as
typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from getting
inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings when you
re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.


Ed,
Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I just
grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.

--
Steve W.

On 2010-02-20, Ed Huntress wrote:
That's a task, but see how it goes. It may save time in the long run to
grease it from time to time under pressure. Or it may last you a lifetime,
in hobby use.


If the grease does not dry out, then I would expect it to last my
lifetime under hobby use. If I get an hour runtime per week, it will
be great (under the thinking that the more, the better).

The countershaft assembly has been reassembled. (and I was thankful to
have the press available for me)

I hope to have the VS and motor reinstalled back tonight, though it is
a bit audacious. I still need to put the motor back together.

When I was 17, I was certified as a Class II lathe operator (which
does not amount to much). So I am very partial to lathes. More so than
to milling machines.

i

On 2010-02-20, Steve W. wrote:
Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I just
grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.


My bearing packing tool also doubles as my finger.

i

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:
"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may want
to
make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple.
Mine
is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I
drilled
and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk fitting. Then
I
cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the outer race; it's
a
hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the
other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing
between
the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill holes
for
bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and
it's
kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as quick
as
typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from
getting
inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings when you
re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.


Ed,
Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I just
grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.

What fun is that? g Besides, it was a Saturday, and I wanted to make
something.

Packing by hand is fine, but if you want to drive out grit and dirt, you
need pressure. Either that or spend more time cleaning the thing in solvent
than it takes to squeeze enough grease through it to push all that stuff
out. It takes seconds.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
On 2010-02-20, Ed Huntress wrote:
That's a task, but see how it goes. It may save time in the long run to
grease it from time to time under pressure. Or it may last you a
lifetime,
in hobby use.


If the grease does not dry out, then I would expect it to last my
lifetime under hobby use. If I get an hour runtime per week, it will
be great (under the thinking that the more, the better).

The countershaft assembly has been reassembled. (and I was thankful to
have the press available for me)

I hope to have the VS and motor reinstalled back tonight, though it is
a bit audacious. I still need to put the motor back together.

When I was 17, I was certified as a Class II lathe operator (which
does not amount to much). So I am very partial to lathes. More so than
to milling machines.

i

Yeah, I'm a lathe fan, myself. I like lapping shafts and bearings, and I
like clever faceplate work -- although I haven't done anything clever for
decades. I use spring calipers ten times more often than I use micrometers.

One of the things that really got me interested in lathe work was a book by
Dick Moore, one of his early ones, in which he described the work that his
original Jig Borer was designed to replace. It was all faceplate work on a
lathe, so I went back into the McGraw-Hill library and read everything about
it that I could find. My first few years with the lathe, I tried very hard
to duplicate that work, which was some of the most precise machining that
could be done in the early days.

Now I make replacement bushings for old tools that I probably should throw
out. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:
"Steve wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:
id wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may want
to
make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple.
Mine
is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I
drilled
and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk fitting. Then
I
cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the outer race; it's
a
hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the
other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing
between
the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill holes
for
bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and
it's
kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as quick
as
typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from
getting
inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings when you
re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.


Ed,
Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I just
grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.

What fun is that?g Besides, it was a Saturday, and I wanted to make
something.

Packing by hand is fine, but if you want to drive out grit and dirt, you
need pressure. Either that or spend more time cleaning the thing in solvent
than it takes to squeeze enough grease through it to push all that stuff
out. It takes seconds.



Bearings should be not completely filled with grease or they will run
hot because of friction of all the grease moving around. The
recommended fill is 1/3 the void but to make sure the grease gets into
the bearing groove. A good bearing grease is designed not to get hot
and run off the balls and groove.

John

"John" wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:
"Steve wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:
id wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may
want
to
make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple.
Mine
is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I
drilled
and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk fitting.
Then
I
cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the outer race;
it's
a
hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the
other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has
a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot
enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing
between
the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill holes
for
bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and
it's
kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as
quick
as
typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from
getting
inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings when you
re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for
extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.


Ed,
Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I just
grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.

What fun is that?g Besides, it was a Saturday, and I wanted to make
something.

Packing by hand is fine, but if you want to drive out grit and dirt, you
need pressure. Either that or spend more time cleaning the thing in
solvent
than it takes to squeeze enough grease through it to push all that stuff
out. It takes seconds.



Bearings should be not completely filled with grease or they will run hot
because of friction of all the grease moving around. The recommended
fill is 1/3 the void but to make sure the grease gets into the bearing
groove. A good bearing grease is designed not to get hot and run off the
balls and groove.

John

Ok for machinery bearings. But bearings used in processing and packaging,
and other rough environments, are generally pressure-packed. Wherever
they're open and subject to dirt, it's common to use pressure-packing both
to clean the bearings and to re-lubricate them.

--
Ed Huntress

Ignoramus23515 wrote:
On 2010-02-20, Steve W. wrote:
Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I
just grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.


My bearing packing tool also doubles as my finger.

i

I like to put the (clean and dry) bearing along with a suitable quantity of
grease into a ziplock bag . Work the grease into the bearing and have clean
hands when I'm done .

--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 11:31:48 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

All greases and oils do at least a bit of that. It's why dry lube was
invented, ah reckon.


I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for lubrication
in any service manuals.

It was in the Ford manuals in the late 70s, when I was a Ford wrench.
Ford even had Ford-stickered spray cans of it on their shelves. It was
used as door/hood/trunk hinge and window mechanism lube. I fell in
love with the spray lithium grease way back then. It's too thin for
high-rpm stuff, but on the manual movements, it's magic.


--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 22:19:31 -0500, the infamous "Steve W."
scrawled the following:

Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I just
grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.

Hey, Mr. Tambourine man! (I've obviously BTDT a few times, too.)

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 21:24:07 -0600, the infamous Ignoramus23515
scrawled the following:

On 2010-02-20, Steve W. wrote:
Could save yourself a lot of aggravation and just grab a standard
bearing packing tool. The two cone style work OK. 99% of the time I just
grab the bearing and pack it by hand after cleaning it well.


My bearing packing tool also doubles as my finger.

Then you're obviously not doing it right, Ig. You need to pack it in
so it comes out the other side, and a single finger just won't cut it.
This guy has it down.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=75784

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

In article ,
Ignoramus23515 wrote:

OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

I use the Mobil 1 grease in my machine tools. Also bought from AutoZone.

Moly fortified is good for very low speed very high pressure bearings,
such as hinges and the like. I have not much used moly grease.

I also grease all fastener threads when I take something apart. Most
often, I use Bostich Anti-Seize compound, but any grease is better than
no grease.

Joe Gwinn

Larry Jaques wrote:
Then you're obviously not doing it right, Ig. You need to pack it in
so it comes out the other side, and a single finger just won't cut it.
This guy has it down.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=75784


That is a great tutorial. The first time I saw that
done was by a lady pilot for an aircraft wheel bearing.
and she did it just about that way. That was a LOOOng
time ago. :-)
...lew...

Lewis Hartswick wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
Then you're obviously not doing it right, Ig. You need to pack it in
so it comes out the other side, and a single finger just won't cut it.
This guy has it down.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=75784


That is a great tutorial. The first time I saw that
done was by a lady pilot for an aircraft wheel bearing.
and she did it just about that way. That was a LOOOng
time ago. :-)
...lew...


If you like all that grease on your hand thats the way to do it,
otherwise use a clean metal plate and put the grease toward the edge of
it and apply the same action as in the tutorial. You won't mess up your
camera.

John

Ignoramus23515 wrote:

I am going through the VS countershaft assembly on the lathe and it
has two open ball bearings. They were filled with dried grease, which
I cleaned out.

I want to know what grease to use in them. I filled one with lithium
grease, but decided that it is still not too late to ask. I would say
that this bearing is not very stressed out, sees at most 3-4,000 RPM,
etc.

If anyone has any grease recs, let me know.

Thanks

i


Mine were all sealed bearings and sounded dry. I just replaced them with new sealed
bearings. McMaster can supply them.

Wes

"Snag" wrote:

I like to put the (clean and dry) bearing along with a suitable quantity of
grease into a ziplock bag . Work the grease into the bearing and have clean
hands when I'm done .

That is an excellent tip!

Wes

On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 16:04:10 -0500, the infamous Wes
scrawled the following:

"Snag" wrote:

I like to put the (clean and dry) bearing along with a suitable quantity of
grease into a ziplock bag . Work the grease into the bearing and have clean
hands when I'm done .

That is an excellent tip!

Icing on the cake, as it were.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

I recall seeing a lot of white lithium-like greases used inside car doors,
on window regulators/mechanisms, rods and linkages for door latches and
locking parts.

I don't remember what the particular advantage/beneficial feature of white
lithium grease is, and I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think it had one
particular feature.

It gets used a lot, almost anywhere on cars.. door hinges, battery
connectors, sheathed cables etc.

It doesn't seem to present any problems when it's used in enclosed spaces
(light duty gear cases), but I've found lots of dried out white lithium
inside vented equipment.. dried enough that it can't be wiped away for
cleaning, it needs to be attacked with solvents or scraped away.
It gets semi-solid like wax as it gets dried out.

Like I said earlier, I used to use it (fairly frequently) but I prefer many
other types of greases over white lithium anymore.

One grease that I started using for certain applications like machine rack &
pinion, drill press quill sliding surfaces and other gear-type applications,
is a thick, non-silicone, synthetic gel-looking grease for brake caliper
pins.
It's really sticky, and continues to pull itself back into the pressure
areas really well,
whereas some greases just squish out to the sides of where they're needed.

--
WB
..........


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 11:31:48 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

All greases and oils do at least a bit of that. It's why dry lube was
invented, ah reckon.


I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel
bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the
best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest
to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different
greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for lubrication
in any service manuals.

It was in the Ford manuals in the late 70s, when I was a Ford wrench.
Ford even had Ford-stickered spray cans of it on their shelves. It was
used as door/hood/trunk hinge and window mechanism lube. I fell in
love with the spray lithium grease way back then. It's too thin for
high-rpm stuff, but on the manual movements, it's magic.


--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On 2010-02-20, Wild_Bill wrote:
I recall seeing a lot of white lithium-like greases used inside car doors,
on window regulators/mechanisms, rods and linkages for door latches and
locking parts.

I don't remember what the particular advantage/beneficial feature of white
lithium grease is, and I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think it had one
particular feature.

It gets used a lot, almost anywhere on cars.. door hinges, battery
connectors, sheathed cables etc.

It doesn't seem to present any problems when it's used in enclosed spaces
(light duty gear cases), but I've found lots of dried out white lithium
inside vented equipment.. dried enough that it can't be wiped away for
cleaning, it needs to be attacked with solvents or scraped away.
It gets semi-solid like wax as it gets dried out.

Like I said earlier, I used to use it (fairly frequently) but I prefer many
other types of greases over white lithium anymore.

One grease that I started using for certain applications like machine rack &
pinion, drill press quill sliding surfaces and other gear-type applications,
is a thick, non-silicone, synthetic gel-looking grease for brake caliper
pins.
It's really sticky, and continues to pull itself back into the pressure
areas really well,
whereas some greases just squish out to the sides of where they're needed.


WB, I will use the red synthetic Mobil-1 grease, I think that it will
work just fine. This is essentially light duty operation as these
gears only transfer moderate forces.

i

On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 18:27:54 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

I recall seeing a lot of white lithium-like greases used inside car doors,
on window regulators/mechanisms, rods and linkages for door latches and
locking parts.

I don't remember what the particular advantage/beneficial feature of white
lithium grease is, and I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think it had one
particular feature.

It's fairly inert and is a decent lubricant for slow movement.


It gets used a lot, almost anywhere on cars.. door hinges, battery
connectors, sheathed cables etc.

It doesn't seem to present any problems when it's used in enclosed spaces
(light duty gear cases), but I've found lots of dried out white lithium
inside vented equipment.. dried enough that it can't be wiped away for
cleaning, it needs to be attacked with solvents or scraped away.
It gets semi-solid like wax as it gets dried out.

Like I said earlier, I used to use it (fairly frequently) but I prefer many
other types of greases over white lithium anymore.

I like the white spray lithium because it goes into tight holes as a
liquid, foams up, then hardens where it it. It really penetrates and
you can put it anywhere.


One grease that I started using for certain applications like machine rack &
pinion, drill press quill sliding surfaces and other gear-type applications,
is a thick, non-silicone, synthetic gel-looking grease for brake caliper
pins.
It's really sticky, and continues to pull itself back into the pressure
areas really well,
whereas some greases just squish out to the sides of where they're needed.

Whoa! You don't want _any_ excess grease anywhere near the brakes,
Bill. I rub some on my fingers and pull the pin or slider plate
through it so there is only a very thin coating on it. It doesn't take
much at all.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus23515" wrote in message
...
OK, I went to Autozone and bought

1) Mobil 1 synthetic grease, advertised for high speed operation
2) Valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease blend

If these bearings are accessible and can be removed easily, you may want
to make yourself a gadget for pressure-lubing them. It can be very simple.
Mine is two pieces of aluminum plate, 3/4", about five inches square. I
drilled and tapped one in the middle for a regular automotive Zerk
fitting. Then I cut gaskets for the size of the bearing, which cover the
outer race; it's a hole just smaller than the outer-race size.

Put a tight wooden or aluminum plug inside the inner race so grease is
directed into the bearings. Support the bottom of the bearing on the other
piece of plate with a few scraps of gasket material, so the grease has a
place to get out. Then load grease into your grease gun and shoot enough
through the bearing to force out old dirt and crud, which will
simultaneously pack the bearing full of grease. I clamp the bearing
between the two pieces of plate with a pair of C-clamps. You could drill
holes for bolts if you want to get fancy.

I made this originally for greasing a wide range of bearing sizes, and
it's kind of clumsy for small ones. I'd make a smaller one if I'd be doing
nothing but small bearings.

BTW, it took less than 15 minutes to make that device -- almost as quick
as typing the directions. Pressure-packing bearings is a good practice if
they're inclined to get dirty. Packing them helps keep the dirt from
getting inside, and the gadget makes it easy to clean out the bearings
when you re-pack them.

You got good grease. Automotive wheel-bearing grease is made for extreme
pressure, and it's too thick and stringy for machinery bearings.

--
Ed Huntress

Good tip, but remember that especially with higher speed bearings, you must
have space when they are installed for excess grease to escape. For faster
bearings in closed spaces you shouldn't fill to more than 30% otherwise the
churning losses will cause them to overheat and die in no time.

On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 05:48:53 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 11:31:48 -0500, the infamous "Wild_Bill"
scrawled the following:

If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

All greases and oils do at least a bit of that. It's why dry lube was
invented, ah reckon.


I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for lubrication
in any service manuals.

It was in the Ford manuals in the late 70s, when I was a Ford wrench.
Ford even had Ford-stickered spray cans of it on their shelves. It was
used as door/hood/trunk hinge and window mechanism lube. I fell in
love with the spray lithium grease way back then. It's too thin for
high-rpm stuff, but on the manual movements, it's magic.


I find it, the white spray Lithium grease makes a fine rust preventive if sprayed in hard to reach
areas, such as door side & bottoms, fender seams etc.
*****************
Thank You


To reply to this email please remove the AT
after the kgs in the reply to address as shown above.

Never ever under estimate the incompetent.

On 2010-02-20, Wild_Bill wrote:
I recall seeing a lot of white lithium-like greases used inside car doors,
on window regulators/mechanisms, rods and linkages for door latches and
locking parts.

I don't remember what the particular advantage/beneficial feature of white
lithium grease is, and I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think it had one
particular feature.

Well ... it is nice where clothing can come in contact with it,
such as car door latches and hinges. It doesn't stain as much.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
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