Cleaned up the carriage, replaced the cross feed nut, and fully
took apart and cleaned up the taper attachment.

Disclaimer, if you are squeamish and cannot look at disgusting
pictures of dirty taper attachments, and such things, do not look
here.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/

i

On Jan 24, 2:05*pm, Ignoramus12856 ignoramus12...@NOSPAM.
12856.invalid wrote:
Cleaned up the carriage, replaced the cross feed nut, and fully
took apart and cleaned up the taper attachment.

Disclaimer, if you are squeamish and cannot look at disgusting
pictures of dirty taper attachments, and such things, do not look
here.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/

i

I hate pictures of dirty taper attachments!

Paul

Ignoramus12856 wrote:

Cleaned up the carriage, replaced the cross feed nut, and fully
took apart and cleaned up the taper attachment.

Disclaimer, if you are squeamish and cannot look at disgusting
pictures of dirty taper attachments, and such things, do not look
here.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/

i

It is coming along. I worked on cutting a keyway using my lathe in a spindle nose
protector today. Sure wish I had managed to score a sloting head for the bridgeport.

I envy that taper attachment. I'm going to have to build one someday.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Sun, 24 Jan 2010 20:23:30 -0600, Ignoramus12856
wrote:

On 2010-01-25, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus12856 wrote:

Cleaned up the carriage, replaced the cross feed nut, and fully
took apart and cleaned up the taper attachment.

Disclaimer, if you are squeamish and cannot look at disgusting
pictures of dirty taper attachments, and such things, do not look
here.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/

i

It is coming along. I worked on cutting a keyway using my lathe in a spindle nose
protector today. Sure wish I had managed to score a sloting head for the bridgeport.

You could also use a broach?

I used a file. This was before I had a shaper. Since the inside is
tapered to fit L00, it'd take a special broach bushing (and a pretty
big broach). The keyway must be there for the nose protector to fit,
but it only gets used when removing the taper adapter. It's not all
that critical. Mine has worked very well.

Pete Keillor

I envy that taper attachment. I'm going to have to build one someday.


Let me know if you need any plans or measurements.

I also replaced the VS drive belt on the lathe today. It was very
unpleasant. The lathe is now somewhat quieter. I hope that the new
belt lasts as long as the old one did, I am not looking forward to
redoing this.

i

Ignoramus12856 wrote:

On 2010-01-25, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus12856 wrote:

Cleaned up the carriage, replaced the cross feed nut, and fully
took apart and cleaned up the taper attachment.

Disclaimer, if you are squeamish and cannot look at disgusting
pictures of dirty taper attachments, and such things, do not look
here.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/

i

It is coming along. I worked on cutting a keyway using my lathe in a spindle nose
protector today. Sure wish I had managed to score a sloting head for the bridgeport.

You could also use a broach?

Then I'd have to make a tapered insert to guide the broach that I'd use one time. Look at
the keyway in one of your chucks or driving plates that came with the lathe. I'm cutting
a straight key in a tapered bore.

I envy that taper attachment. I'm going to have to build one someday.


Let me know if you need any plans or measurements.

I'll definitly contact you when I decide to build one.

I also replaced the VS drive belt on the lathe today. It was very
unpleasant. The lathe is now somewhat quieter. I hope that the new
belt lasts as long as the old one did, I am not looking forward to
redoing this.

I think I put my belt in place and then reassembled the sheaves. I had them apart for
repair.

Give me a few days and I'll try to use my laptop to record the sounds of my lathe as a
reference. I'll send you a link or the audiofile.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Pete Keillor wrote:

You could also use a broach?

I used a file. This was before I had a shaper. Since the inside is
tapered to fit L00, it'd take a special broach bushing (and a pretty
big broach). The keyway must be there for the nose protector to fit,
but it only gets used when removing the taper adapter. It's not all
that critical. Mine has worked very well.

Oh, you are a glutton for punishment but then I'm not sure my way was that much easier if
you used a double cut file specifically made for large amounts of aluminum removal.

I was being a bit anal trying to cut a perfect key way until I realized, it just has to
clear the key. I tested it out, jacks the taper adaptor out just fine. I cut the nose
protector about .050" or so shorter than I'd like cosmetically but good enough.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2010-01-25, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus12856 wrote:

I envy that taper attachment. I'm going to have to build one someday.


Let me know if you need any plans or measurements.

I'll definitly contact you when I decide to build one.

I sent you the PDF file with the manual and parts breakdown, this morning.

One thing that you would need, that is hard to make with regular home
shop tools, is the splined shaft that slides in and out of the cross
feed screw. I hope that Clausing has that in stock.

I also replaced the VS drive belt on the lathe today. It was very
unpleasant. The lathe is now somewhat quieter. I hope that the new
belt lasts as long as the old one did, I am not looking forward to
redoing this.

I think I put my belt in place and then reassembled the sheaves. I
had them apart for repair.

Might make it easier. For me, it was a very nasty job, the
countershaft and the whole assembly holding it, was heavy, dirty, and
very awkward to maneuver.

Give me a few days and I'll try to use my laptop to record the
sounds of my lathe as a reference. I'll send you a link or the
audiofile.

Thank you. We can then compare notes.

i

On Jan 24, 5:05*pm, Ignoramus12856 ignoramus12...@NOSPAM.
12856.invalid wrote:
Cleaned up the carriage, replaced the cross feed nut, and fully
took apart and cleaned up the taper attachment.

Disclaimer, if you are squeamish and cannot look at disgusting
pictures of dirty taper attachments, and such things, do not look
here.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/

i

Those photos are inappropriate and vulgar. Particularly the lurid
rusted pivot plate 03-Cleanup-6274.jpg taunting the clean piece next
to it . Gratefully you included images of rust-proofing paint and WD40
in many of the photos so that the message isn't completely celebratory
of such filth.

Ignoramus29432 wrote:

I sent you the PDF file with the manual and parts breakdown, this morning.

One thing that you would need, that is hard to make with regular home
shop tools, is the splined shaft that slides in and out of the cross
feed screw. I hope that Clausing has that in stock.

I can't remember if they do, or if they are incredibly proud of it ($$$).

I also replaced the VS drive belt on the lathe today. It was very
unpleasant. The lathe is now somewhat quieter. I hope that the new
belt lasts as long as the old one did, I am not looking forward to
redoing this.

I think I put my belt in place and then reassembled the sheaves. I
had them apart for repair.

Might make it easier. For me, it was a very nasty job, the
countershaft and the whole assembly holding it, was heavy, dirty, and
very awkward to maneuver.

Nothing like working on things that are bigger, stronger, and ornerier than you. I run
into that almost every day, it got old fast.

Give me a few days and I'll try to use my laptop to record the
sounds of my lathe as a reference. I'll send you a link or the
audiofile.

Thank you. We can then compare notes.

I'll try to get to it sooner than later.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 18:06:19 -0500, Wes wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:

You could also use a broach?

I used a file. This was before I had a shaper. Since the inside is
tapered to fit L00, it'd take a special broach bushing (and a pretty
big broach). The keyway must be there for the nose protector to fit,
but it only gets used when removing the taper adapter. It's not all
that critical. Mine has worked very well.

Oh, you are a glutton for punishment but then I'm not sure my way was that much easier if
you used a double cut file specifically made for large amounts of aluminum removal.

I was being a bit anal trying to cut a perfect key way until I realized, it just has to
clear the key. I tested it out, jacks the taper adaptor out just fine. I cut the nose
protector about .050" or so shorter than I'd like cosmetically but good enough.

Wes

Actually, it went pretty quick, not over 20 min. or so. I posted the
pics back when, let's see...

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...oseAdapter.JPG
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...5CComplete.JPG

Pete Keillor

Pete Keillor wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 18:06:19 -0500, Wes wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:


Actually, it went pretty quick, not over 20 min. or so. I posted the
pics back when, let's see...

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...oseAdapter.JPG
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...5CComplete.JPG

Looks good. How did you attach your handle to the tubing?

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 05:13:37 -0500, Wes wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 18:06:19 -0500, Wes wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:


Actually, it went pretty quick, not over 20 min. or so. I posted the
pics back when, let's see...

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...oseAdapter.JPG
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...5CComplete.JPG

Looks good. How did you attach your handle to the tubing?

Wes

I threaded it, then used loctite.

Pete

Pete Keillor wrote:

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...oseAdapter.JPG
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...5CComplete.JPG

Looks good. How did you attach your handle to the tubing?

Wes

I threaded it, then used loctite.

Well there is an idea. My machine room is so narrow, I'm not sure I can get the draw bar
out from the left side of the lathe. I need to shove the lathe against the wall next to
the tail stock side and see if I can get it out. Might be close.

If I can get it out that way, I'll try your way. If not, I'm going to turn a step for the
hand wheel to set against. (won't take any real force) and then turn and external nut to
secure the handle. Sorta like a bearhug bearing retainer.

I'll have to add a small woodruff key to lock rotation of handwheel to draw tube.

I may find myself having to remove the drawbar from the spindle end if things are too
tight.

Northern Michigan, heated shop with 14x30 lathe and bridgeport, 59 cents a day for
heating. Lots of trade offs are being made here.

I'm assuming you are out in Texas now were heating is no longer a problem.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 18:46:27 -0500, Wes wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...oseAdapter.JPG
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...5CComplete.JPG

Looks good. How did you attach your handle to the tubing?

Wes

I threaded it, then used loctite.

Well there is an idea. My machine room is so narrow, I'm not sure I can get the draw bar
out from the left side of the lathe. I need to shove the lathe against the wall next to
the tail stock side and see if I can get it out. Might be close.

If I can get it out that way, I'll try your way. If not, I'm going to turn a step for the
hand wheel to set against. (won't take any real force) and then turn and external nut to
secure the handle. Sorta like a bearhug bearing retainer.

I'll have to add a small woodruff key to lock rotation of handwheel to draw tube.

I may find myself having to remove the drawbar from the spindle end if things are too
tight.

Northern Michigan, heated shop with 14x30 lathe and bridgeport, 59 cents a day for
heating. Lots of trade offs are being made here.

I'm assuming you are out in Texas now were heating is no longer a problem.

Wes
Yep, but no shop yet. That'll come late this year hopefully. We're
still sorting out the house.

Pete

Pete Keillor wrote:

I'm assuming you are out in Texas now were heating is no longer a problem.

Wes
Yep, but no shop yet. That'll come late this year hopefully. We're
still sorting out the house.

I've only been able to travel and enjoy a visit to Texas once, what part of it are you in?

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 18:59:29 -0500, Wes wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:

I'm assuming you are out in Texas now were heating is no longer a problem.

Wes
Yep, but no shop yet. That'll come late this year hopefully. We're
still sorting out the house.

I've only been able to travel and enjoy a visit to Texas once, what part of it are you in?

Wes

Near Georgetown, a little north of Austin. This subdivision is all
large lots, does have a POA (which seems very anti-Texas to me), but
it isn't crowded and it's quiet. The best feature is a ridge to the
south blocks a lot of the city lights from Round Rock and Austin, so
you can actually see stars. The city glow does obscur about 15-20
degrees of the sky up from the southern horizon. On good nights I
drag out the telescope and spend a couple hours. There's plenty of
dark sky sites fairly close to the west. However, somebody on a major
road about one mile away just put up a bunch of sodium vapor lights
pointed at the horizon, looks like a storage facility going in. Very
obnoxious. Oh, well, it's still a marvelous view of the sky for being
this close to a major metropolitan area.

Pete Keillor

Pete Keillor wrote:

I've only been able to travel and enjoy a visit to Texas once, what part of it are you in?

Wes

Near Georgetown, a little north of Austin. This subdivision is all
large lots, does have a POA (which seems very anti-Texas to me), but
it isn't crowded and it's quiet. The best feature is a ridge to the
south blocks a lot of the city lights from Round Rock and Austin, so
you can actually see stars. The city glow does obscur about 15-20
degrees of the sky up from the southern horizon. On good nights I
drag out the telescope and spend a couple hours. There's plenty of
dark sky sites fairly close to the west. However, somebody on a major
road about one mile away just put up a bunch of sodium vapor lights
pointed at the horizon, looks like a storage facility going in. Very
obnoxious. Oh, well, it's still a marvelous view of the sky for being
this close to a major metropolitan area.


My pet peeve is noise polution. Some JA 1/2 a mile away can ruin a restful evening with
an over powered stereo with a bass system on steroids cranked up. I don't mind lawn
mowers, air planes, gun fire, and chainsaws, not even a sweet sounding ride wasting his
Goodyears going by. Some idiots stereo making the walls thump from 1/2 a mile away gets
on my nerves.

I can understand your dislike of light polution.

As to the POA which I assume is like a HOA? You are near Austin. That is the liberal
part of Texas from what I've pieced together.

Hope you get your shop going soon/

Wes

Ignoramus29432 wrote:

Thank you. We can then compare notes.

Check Gmail. Hopefully this helps, my handle differs from your manuals depiction.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2010-01-28, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus29432 wrote:

Thank you. We can then compare notes.

Check Gmail. Hopefully this helps, my handle differs from your manuals depiction.

Wes, thank you VERY much, your handle looks very close to mine.

i

Pete Keillor wrote:

Actually, it went pretty quick, not over 20 min. or so. I posted the
pics back when, let's see...

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...oseAdapter.JPG
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...5CComplete.JPG

Looks good. How did you attach your handle to the tubing?

Wes

I threaded it, then used loctite.


I ended up shoving the lathe closer to the side wall and loctited my handle on also. I
have some extra threads still left. I may make a longer tube spacer and screw the handle
a bit closer to the end before trimming permanently. Some heat will be needed I may
even make a new handle. Time will tell.

I'm feeling a bit dumb right now. My 5C to MT4.5 adaptor had a sheared off stop pin. I
didn't think fixing it was too important until I tried tightening a collet. I figured if I
could get away with out a stop pin on a bridgeport, might as well try it first with the 5c
collet. I need the pin, unlike a R8, the 5C doesn't want to self lock at all for me.

Punching out the bit that was left was easy, I used my automatic center punch. Then I had
a brain fart. I don't have any .125" drill rod for a replacement.

After I headed back inside the house, I stopped to think, I do have a lathe, why didn't I
think of making a pin? DUH. Heck, I've made short pins using my bridgeport too for
crying out loud. http://wess.freeshell.org/making_brass_plug.jpg

Thanks for an excellent idea on fixing the handle.

Wes

On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 16:58:32 -0500, Wes wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:

Actually, it went pretty quick, not over 20 min. or so. I posted the
pics back when, let's see...

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...oseAdapter.JPG
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...5CComplete.JPG

Looks good. How did you attach your handle to the tubing?

Wes

I threaded it, then used loctite.


I ended up shoving the lathe closer to the side wall and loctited my handle on also. I
have some extra threads still left. I may make a longer tube spacer and screw the handle
a bit closer to the end before trimming permanently. Some heat will be needed I may
even make a new handle. Time will tell.

I'm feeling a bit dumb right now. My 5C to MT4.5 adaptor had a sheared off stop pin. I
didn't think fixing it was too important until I tried tightening a collet. I figured if I
could get away with out a stop pin on a bridgeport, might as well try it first with the 5c
collet. I need the pin, unlike a R8, the 5C doesn't want to self lock at all for me.

Punching out the bit that was left was easy, I used my automatic center punch. Then I had
a brain fart. I don't have any .125" drill rod for a replacement.

After I headed back inside the house, I stopped to think, I do have a lathe, why didn't I
think of making a pin? DUH. Heck, I've made short pins using my bridgeport too for
crying out loud. http://wess.freeshell.org/making_brass_plug.jpg

Thanks for an excellent idea on fixing the handle.

Wes




Well, I lost my pin the same way some time ago. I bought a 5C wrench,
seldom need it. Usually for unscrewing. The main thing is make sure
all your collets fit the threads on your closer. I've got some cheap
ones which required cleaning up.
Following is a link to a similar wrench, down the page a bit.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#collet-wrenches/=609orz

Pete Keillor

Pete Keillor wrote:


Well, I lost my pin the same way some time ago. I bought a 5C wrench,
seldom need it. Usually for unscrewing. The main thing is make sure
all your collets fit the threads on your closer. I've got some cheap
ones which required cleaning up.
Following is a link to a similar wrench, down the page a bit.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#collet-wrenches/=609orz

Thanks for the tip on the collet wrench. I ended up fixing the 5c-MT4 1/2 adaptor.

Turned a .125D pip on the end of some 5/16" stock, reduced it just a bit more at the end
where it sticks though the adaptor to engage the collet slot.

That left me with a 6" piece of 5/16" stock with a pin on the end. Inserted in collet
adaptor, banged it in, cut off close to flush with a jewlers saw and did a little file
work to match the taper.

Having used this now, I notice I have to either put my spanner on the nut that holds the
nose protector to hold the spindle while I turn the drawbar or put it into backgear. Sucks
if you put it into backgear w/o pulling the pin and then start the motor.

So, your way has a lot going for it.

Wes