I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

Steve

On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

The hot rolled will likely be much less dimensionally correct than the
cold rolled. Plan on it being under sized, over sized, egg shaped, lousy
surface finish, etc. For a boat roller it may not make any difference
but if the roller has a steel bushing the hot rolled might not fit
without a bit of touch up on the grinder.

I'd weld a washer on one end, drill for a cotter pin on the other. Or if
you have the drill press set up, why not drill both ends and skip
setting up another machine?

Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

Steve



Either will work. I think they use Pal nuts on a lot of the roller setups.
I would prefer a stainless or galvanized rod as the water will stay inside
on the rod for a while.Get a long 5/8 galvanized bolt.

On 2010-01-01, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put
a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

16' Lund Alum with interior. Not heavy. Roller about a foot long. Just
wondering about rusting or one wearing more than the other.

If you apply marine grease (Pennzoil, not the biodegradable water
based crap), it should last forever. Strength obviously far exceeds the
need.

Even with daily use, it will take decades to begin to wear.

i

"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put
a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

16' Lund Alum with interior. Not heavy. Roller about a foot long. Just
wondering about rusting or one wearing more than the other.

Steve

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
m...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app? Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I
may just tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill
and put a cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if
needed?

Steve



Either will work. I think they use Pal nuts on a lot of the roller
setups. I would prefer a stainless or galvanized rod as the water will
stay inside on the rod for a while.Get a long 5/8 galvanized bolt.

Hmmmm. Didn't think of that. Wonder if I can find twelve to fourteen
incher.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app? Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I
may just tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill
and put a cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if
needed?

Steve

If its just a bump roller and your boat rests on bunks I wouldn't worry
about it. Just get it on there.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app? Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I
may just tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I
drill and put a cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if
needed?

Steve

If its just a bump roller and your boat rests on bunks I wouldn't worry
about it. Just get it on there.

Just asking ahead. I hate to do things twice, especially when it involves
jacking up the boat to do it.

Steve

On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:31:37 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
m...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put
a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

16' Lund Alum with interior. Not heavy. Roller about a foot long. Just
wondering about rusting or one wearing more than the other.

Steve

I got some 5/8" dia stainless rod to make roller pins for my 16'
Alumacraft Lunker SS. They made a definite difference over the rusty
bolts they replaced on that Spartan trailer. I smeared some green
marine grease on them and then assembled with the urethane rollers.
That was about circa 1985. My son still has them in service and
they're still working well.

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
m...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app? Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I
may just tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I
drill and put a cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if
needed?

Steve



Either will work. I think they use Pal nuts on a lot of the roller
setups. I would prefer a stainless or galvanized rod as the water will
stay inside on the rod for a while.Get a long 5/8 galvanized bolt.

Hmmmm. Didn't think of that. Wonder if I can find twelve to fourteen
incher.

Steve


1/2" is easy. Get an anchor for concrete.

Don Foreman wrote:


On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:31:37 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and put
a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?
What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i


I decided not to use rollers on my trailer.
The keel sits on 2*12s laid on top of the steel cross members.

The problem is the angular difference between the boat and the trailer
when they first meet up.

Visualize the trailer sunk to the ramp, and the boat approaching level.

With rollers, the entire 5500 pounds is taken on the first roller.
That's going to bend no matter how big the axle is...

But maybe your boat is lighter?







Richard

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:31:37 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
om...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and
put
a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?

What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

16' Lund Alum with interior. Not heavy. Roller about a foot long. Just
wondering about rusting or one wearing more than the other.

Steve

I got some 5/8" dia stainless rod to make roller pins for my 16'
Alumacraft Lunker SS. They made a definite difference over the rusty
bolts they replaced on that Spartan trailer. I smeared some green
marine grease on them and then assembled with the urethane rollers.
That was about circa 1985. My son still has them in service and
they're still working well.

I don't live in the middle of nowhere, but it's two doors down. It is hard
to get materials around here. If I was still in Vegas, this wouldn't be a
thread. Some SS sure would be nice.

Steve

"cavelamb" wrote in message
news
Don Foreman wrote:


On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:31:37 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about
12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and
put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?
What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i


I decided not to use rollers on my trailer.
The keel sits on 2*12s laid on top of the steel cross members.

The problem is the angular difference between the boat and the trailer
when they first meet up.

Visualize the trailer sunk to the ramp, and the boat approaching level.

With rollers, the entire 5500 pounds is taken on the first roller.
That's going to bend no matter how big the axle is...

But maybe your boat is lighter?


Richard

From what I've seen, the weight in your keel outweighs my entire boat. I
have decided to take it to the lake and see just how it behaves during
launch and recovery. I have bunks lengthwise in the back. The front sits
on two Veed rollers, but they are at the wrong angle for this boat, and only
touch a little. Then there's the bow receiving roller that doesn't support
any weight. I want to cut off the two misaligned rollers, and put them
right. Then add the center keel 12" long slight vee right on the keel about
18" back from where the bow curve straightens. Recovering the boat is easy,
as it has side guides, but they need extending, as they are too short to
keep it straight on to the bow receiver. I think I will just put one post
roller in the front on each side.

But first thing is going to be another launch and recovery to see how it
does. Of course, I'll pick up a few rainbows while I'm there. There's one
big flat roller at the center back that I don't even think hits the keel
during launch, recovery, or storage. This trailer was either for another
boat, or cobbed together from parts from different trailers. It's really a
piece of junk, but for this little boat, it's gonna have to do for now
anyway. Will take some pics during the project.

Lund 16 Sea Nymph open Aluminum, 40 hp 4 cyl Merc. Bench storage seat,
steering console, captain seat. Pretty simple. But lots of flat decked
carpeted floor space making it roomy enough for four to fish comfortably.
It was only $1500, and I have only spent less than $100 on it on an anchor,
ropes, and whatnot. Runs like a striped ass ape once I got the hoses fixed
to the carbs.

Steve

"CalifBill" wrote

1/2" is easy. Get an anchor for concrete.

Got a nearly new plastic coated metal mushroom for $2 at a yard sale. Plus,
it came with one already.

Steve

Steve B wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
news
Don Foreman wrote:


On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:31:37 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about
12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and
put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?
What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

I decided not to use rollers on my trailer.
The keel sits on 2*12s laid on top of the steel cross members.

The problem is the angular difference between the boat and the trailer
when they first meet up.

Visualize the trailer sunk to the ramp, and the boat approaching level.

With rollers, the entire 5500 pounds is taken on the first roller.
That's going to bend no matter how big the axle is...

But maybe your boat is lighter?


Richard

From what I've seen, the weight in your keel outweighs my entire boat. I
have decided to take it to the lake and see just how it behaves during
launch and recovery. I have bunks lengthwise in the back. The front sits
on two Veed rollers, but they are at the wrong angle for this boat, and only
touch a little. Then there's the bow receiving roller that doesn't support
any weight. I want to cut off the two misaligned rollers, and put them
right. Then add the center keel 12" long slight vee right on the keel about
18" back from where the bow curve straightens. Recovering the boat is easy,
as it has side guides, but they need extending, as they are too short to
keep it straight on to the bow receiver. I think I will just put one post
roller in the front on each side.


That sounds pretty reasonable, Steve.


But first thing is going to be another launch and recovery to see how it
does. Of course, I'll pick up a few rainbows while I'm there. There's one
big flat roller at the center back that I don't even think hits the keel
during launch, recovery, or storage. This trailer was either for another
boat, or cobbed together from parts from different trailers. It's really a
piece of junk, but for this little boat, it's gonna have to do for now
anyway. Will take some pics during the project.


It's strange how you can stare at something for hours and not see what
jumps out at you from a photograph.


Lund 16 Sea Nymph open Aluminum, 40 hp 4 cyl Merc. Bench storage seat,
steering console, captain seat. Pretty simple. But lots of flat decked
carpeted floor space making it roomy enough for four to fish comfortably.
It was only $1500, and I have only spent less than $100 on it on an anchor,
ropes, and whatnot. Runs like a striped ass ape once I got the hoses fixed
to the carbs.

Steve

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 14:32:06 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Steve B wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
news
Don Foreman wrote:


On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:31:37 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about
12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and
put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?
What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

I decided not to use rollers on my trailer.
The keel sits on 2*12s laid on top of the steel cross members.

The problem is the angular difference between the boat and the trailer
when they first meet up.

Visualize the trailer sunk to the ramp, and the boat approaching level.

With rollers, the entire 5500 pounds is taken on the first roller.
That's going to bend no matter how big the axle is...

But maybe your boat is lighter?


Richard

From what I've seen, the weight in your keel outweighs my entire boat. I
have decided to take it to the lake and see just how it behaves during
launch and recovery. I have bunks lengthwise in the back. The front sits
on two Veed rollers, but they are at the wrong angle for this boat, and only
touch a little. Then there's the bow receiving roller that doesn't support
any weight. I want to cut off the two misaligned rollers, and put them
right. Then add the center keel 12" long slight vee right on the keel about
18" back from where the bow curve straightens. Recovering the boat is easy,
as it has side guides, but they need extending, as they are too short to
keep it straight on to the bow receiver. I think I will just put one post
roller in the front on each side.


That sounds pretty reasonable, Steve.


But first thing is going to be another launch and recovery to see how it
does. Of course, I'll pick up a few rainbows while I'm there. There's one
big flat roller at the center back that I don't even think hits the keel
during launch, recovery, or storage. This trailer was either for another
boat, or cobbed together from parts from different trailers. It's really a
piece of junk, but for this little boat, it's gonna have to do for now
anyway. Will take some pics during the project.


It's strange how you can stare at something for hours and not see what
jumps out at you from a photograph.


Lund 16 Sea Nymph open Aluminum, 40 hp 4 cyl Merc. Bench storage seat,
steering console, captain seat. Pretty simple. But lots of flat decked
carpeted floor space making it roomy enough for four to fish comfortably.
It was only $1500, and I have only spent less than $100 on it on an anchor,
ropes, and whatnot. Runs like a striped ass ape once I got the hoses fixed
to the carbs.

Steve



I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:


I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok.

I can hardly wait for the fabulous tales that will come from this
acquisition. What's it gonna' be first, paddling it over Niagara
Falls, or 12-volting it around Cape Horn?

Wayne

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 14:32:06 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Steve B wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
news Don Foreman wrote:


On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:31:37 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Ignoramus11030" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-31, Steve B wrote:
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about
12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app?
Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I may
just
tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I drill and
put a
cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable if needed?
What is the weight of the boat? And length of the roller?

Assuming that it is just a fishing boat and the roller is under 10
inches, I would think that any rod you can find would hold up just
fine.

i

I decided not to use rollers on my trailer.
The keel sits on 2*12s laid on top of the steel cross members.

The problem is the angular difference between the boat and the trailer
when they first meet up.

Visualize the trailer sunk to the ramp, and the boat approaching level.

With rollers, the entire 5500 pounds is taken on the first roller.
That's going to bend no matter how big the axle is...

But maybe your boat is lighter?


Richard

From what I've seen, the weight in your keel outweighs my entire boat. I
have decided to take it to the lake and see just how it behaves during
launch and recovery. I have bunks lengthwise in the back. The front sits
on two Veed rollers, but they are at the wrong angle for this boat, and only
touch a little. Then there's the bow receiving roller that doesn't support
any weight. I want to cut off the two misaligned rollers, and put them
right. Then add the center keel 12" long slight vee right on the keel about
18" back from where the bow curve straightens. Recovering the boat is easy,
as it has side guides, but they need extending, as they are too short to
keep it straight on to the bow receiver. I think I will just put one post
roller in the front on each side.


That sounds pretty reasonable, Steve.


But first thing is going to be another launch and recovery to see how it
does. Of course, I'll pick up a few rainbows while I'm there. There's one
big flat roller at the center back that I don't even think hits the keel
during launch, recovery, or storage. This trailer was either for another
boat, or cobbed together from parts from different trailers. It's really a
piece of junk, but for this little boat, it's gonna have to do for now
anyway. Will take some pics during the project.


It's strange how you can stare at something for hours and not see what
jumps out at you from a photograph.


Lund 16 Sea Nymph open Aluminum, 40 hp 4 cyl Merc. Bench storage seat,
steering console, captain seat. Pretty simple. But lots of flat decked
carpeted floor space making it roomy enough for four to fish comfortably.
It was only $1500, and I have only spent less than $100 on it on an anchor,
ropes, and whatnot. Runs like a striped ass ape once I got the hoses fixed
to the carbs.

Steve



I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Checking the Chysler brochures..it could be a Runner 85 or a Bass Runner
115.

It does have a center console, and bass seats for and aft, with a pretty
big bait well in it. At least one baitwell....shrug.

No idea about the years. It is that Chrysler Blue though..with a big
round Chrysler logo on a plate on the sides of the hull.

Ill need to check it out better...shrug

http://www.hurrikain.com/thechryslercrew/78-scans.htm


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

"Steve B" wrote:

Lund 16 Sea Nymph open Aluminum, 40 hp 4 cyl Merc. Bench storage seat,
steering console, captain seat. Pretty simple. But lots of flat decked
carpeted floor space making it roomy enough for four to fish comfortably.
It was only $1500, and I have only spent less than $100 on it on an anchor,
ropes, and whatnot. Runs like a striped ass ape once I got the hoses fixed
to the carbs.

Damn, you did well. 16' open is all the boat I've ever dreamed of owning.

WEs
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...


Just make sure that when you tighten the strap of winch cable that the
front of the boat is not being stressed at the front of the bunks. I
extended the bunks on my 14' boat as the front roller collapsed and the
bottom cracked where it stressed at the front of the bunk. Do not use
pressure treated for bunks on an alumium boat as the copper and aluminum
create a battery.

Mine are aluminum, and have roller wheels on them, or maybe just vinyl.
Definitely not wood. The bunks cost more than the rest of the trailer. The
guy must have gotten them free or cheap.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app? Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I
may just tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I
drill and put a cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable
if needed?

Steve

If its just a bump roller and your boat rests on bunks I wouldn't worry
about it. Just get it on there.

Just asking ahead. I hate to do things twice, especially when it involves
jacking up the boat to do it.

Steve

I don't usually jack up the boat. If it's a minor thing I'll just run down
to Mittry Lake and do my trailer repairs while the boat is floating at the
dock. If it requires major tools I can't throw in the truck (hasn't
happened yet) I'd just take one of my fishing buddies and tell him to go
fishing while I go back to the shop with the trailer.

Well, I probably should take back that first part. I do have one aluminum
boat sitting on the floor in the shop and the trailer sitting outside, but
that's to make it easier to get in and out of the boat while I am welding it
back together.

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner

Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 21:33:22 -0800, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner

Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --


I need a 50-90 hp outboard for this boat from the looks of it. Any
suggestions for brands with the best long term reliablity/minimal
expense etc etc?

Im far far more familiar with sail boats than power boats.

Shrug

Gunner

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 21:33:22 -0800, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner
Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --


I need a 50-90 hp outboard for this boat from the looks of it. Any
suggestions for brands with the best long term reliablity/minimal
expense etc etc?

Im far far more familiar with sail boats than power boats.

Shrug

Gunner


Lee boards both sides and a lanteen rig.
The fish will never hear you coming!

Steve B wrote:
"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner
Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --

Caveat: Try to find one with a working tilt unit.

Don't ask.

Steve



Don't have to ask.
That was good advice!

--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/


"The clock of life is wound but once, and no man has the power
to tell just when the hands will stop, at late or early hour...
Now is the only time you own. Live, love, toil with a will.
Place no faith in time. For the clock may soon be still."

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I need a piece of 5/8" rod for a center pin for a boat roller about 12"
long. Will there be any difference in cold versus hot rolled for this
app? Very very little roller movement over the period of time. Think I
may just tack a washer on each end, and keep it simple. Or should I
drill and put a cotter key, at least on one end so it can be removable
if needed?

Steve

If its just a bump roller and your boat rests on bunks I wouldn't worry
about it. Just get it on there.

Just asking ahead. I hate to do things twice, especially when it
involves jacking up the boat to do it.

Steve

I don't usually jack up the boat. If it's a minor thing I'll just run
down to Mittry Lake and do my trailer repairs while the boat is floating
at the dock. If it requires major tools I can't throw in the truck
(hasn't happened yet) I'd just take one of my fishing buddies and tell him
to go fishing while I go back to the shop with the trailer.

Well, I probably should take back that first part. I do have one aluminum
boat sitting on the floor in the shop and the trailer sitting outside, but
that's to make it easier to get in and out of the boat while I am welding
it back together.

This is going to require me fitting the one roller exactly to the keel. I
need to cut the other two off and reweld them so they mate up parallel to
the boat's bottom. I can measure and measure and measure, but I know I
could never get it exactly right. I just have to jack the boat up 2" to get
in there and do it. But, after I do cut the stuff I will have to lower the
boat and make sure it fits before final weld out. Will inspect the trailer
on the pre-work launch/recovery for any additional places that I need to fix
or reinforce. May have to do some mirror welding, and haven't done any of
that in a while, but it comes back fast. The lake is about 10 miles away,
and I don't just want to leave the boat there, run home, run back, and so
forth as many times as it takes.

Steve

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner

Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --

Caveat: Try to find one with a working tilt unit.

Don't ask.

Steve

On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 16:53:17 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner

Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --

Caveat: Try to find one with a working tilt unit.

Don't ask.

Steve

Thanks guys...Ill start haunting the boat yards and marinas

Gunner

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 16:53:17 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner
Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --
Caveat: Try to find one with a working tilt unit.

Don't ask.

Steve

Thanks guys...Ill start haunting the boat yards and marinas

Gunner



And Craigslist...

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 21:50:19 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 16:53:17 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 13:41:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I was just given a Chrysler 15' trihull boat. All there except for the
outboard. Paint is a bit ugly...but the bow mounted trolling
motor...etc etc all seem to be ok. Ill try to bring it home next week if
I go south.

I think..think..its a Commando 151
http://www.allpar.com/photos/boats/commando.jpg


Any suggestions for getting a cheap outboard in California?

Gunner
Standard foraging - With the economy in the bilge and boats a
non-critical expense that is the first to be tossed overboard... ;-)
there are a lot of abandoned and repossessed boats around, and some of
them will have outboard motors on them.

If the marina repossessed the slip or the boatyard space for back
rent and ends up with a derelict boat to dispose of, they simply want
to make the problem go away quietly and ASAP. And they'd rather give
it to you for a pittance (or free) rather than pay to have it hauled
off and scrapped - they have to pay for the hazardous waste handling
of the scrap if they put it into that system.

-- Bruce --
Caveat: Try to find one with a working tilt unit.

Don't ask.

Steve

Thanks guys...Ill start haunting the boat yards and marinas

Gunner



And Craigslist...


Already hit Craigslist. G

Gunner

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766