I was at Brothers Machinery Exchange (North Andover, MA) today, and they
have a Burke/Powermatic Millrite MVN (which looks like a slightly scaled
down version of the MVI that I have). I had always wondered what the
original knee gib locking screws looked like, as my MVI didn't have them
and so I improvised using Holochrome 3/8-16 hex socket cap screws and
hex wrenches. This works, but the hex wrenches fall out from time to
time.

The MVI still had the original gib locking screws, so I took one out and
looked it over. Very simple. They were machined from a bit of 5/8"
square steel (1018?) bar machined to have a 3/8-16 threaded shaft ending
with a full dog point. The dog point part is about 3/8" long, with a
dished tip (so the brass ball will center properly).

The 5/8" square is the same as in used on the drawbar and on the knee
Z-axis (up and down) crank, so one can use the one crank handle to
perform all these functions.

Joe Gwinn

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 23:18:45 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:



The 5/8" square is the same as in used on the drawbar and on the knee
Z-axis (up and down) crank, so one can use the one crank handle to
perform all these functions.

Or you can replace the hex keys with a couple of the adjustable
handles on McMaster pp. 2181 thru 2184.

--
Ned Simmons

In article ,
Ned Simmons wrote:

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 23:18:45 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:



The 5/8" square is the same as in used on the drawbar and on the knee
Z-axis (up and down) crank, so one can use the one crank handle to
perform all these functions.

Or you can replace the hex keys with a couple of the adjustable
handles on McMaster pp. 2181 thru 2184.

Yeah these would work, but they wouldn't look right - too pretty...

Actually, I'll probably stick with the cap screws and hex wrenches for
now, as they don't annoy me enough. But I had wondered what the
original gib clamp screws looked like, and now I know.

Joe Gwinn

On Dec 18, 9:44*am, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 23:18:45 -0500, Joseph Gwinn

wrote:

The 5/8" square is the same as in used on the drawbar and on the knee
Z-axis (up and down) crank, so one can use the one crank handle to
perform all these functions.

Or you can replace the hex keys with a couple of the adjustable
handles on McMaster pp. 2181 thru 2184.

--
Ned Simmons

Or, you can make up your own screw with a captive wrench.

Make the screw from a piece of 3/4" or larger round rod. Mill the
square or hex, but leave some of the round at the very end. Leave the
screw shank long enough to allow the wrench to turn on it.

Similar to the nuts often used to keep wrenches captive on lathe
tailstocks.

John Martin