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OT (?) Camper refrigerators
Well , the cooling fins are metal ...
We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U .... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
"Snag" fired this volley in
: Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? Servel-cyle units are pretty solid, unless they develop a leak in the sealed system (which happens pretty often at about 10-15 years age, since the system is all iron pipe, which rusts). Since the heating element leads are exposed clearly in all RV units, you might consider disconnecting them and powering the (120V) element directly from a patch cord. If the unit cools, it's the controller. LLoyd |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
On Dec 15, 5:31*pm, "Snag" wrote:
Well , the cooling fins are metal ... * We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... * Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... We have such a refer in our 5th wheel. Runs on either propane or 120 VAC shore power. Type of power to use is selected by push button at the top of the unit. You didn't say which was being used when your unit stopped. If it was using propane, did the propane bottle run empty? Did the "fault" light come on? Each year before we start camping, I pull the outside cover and blow all the dirt, spiders and other stuff out with compressed air. Lots of stuff comes out! The units run on ammonia gas and if this leaks out, the cooling stops. Have you smelled any ammonia in your camper? Well, you said you haven't inspected the unit, so I guess you wouldn't know, yet. Hard to guess until you know more. Paul |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 19:31:20 -0600, "Snag"
wrote: Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? dual power as in 12/110, 12/lpg, 110 lpg? The electric part of an LPG dual power is just a strip heater to take the place of the pilot flame. The biggest problem with lpg fridges is dirt on the "pilot" flame or nests blocking the draft. |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
"Snag" wrote in message ... Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... Have had a thermocouple go bad. Bad connection on the 110v side and bad thermocouple on the gas side. |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
"CalifBill" wrote in message ... "Snag" wrote in message ... Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... Have had a thermocouple go bad. Bad connection on the 110v side and bad thermocouple on the gas side. I had one quit because a wire came loose. There are some things inside the cover that need a tester and a trained tech, but some things, like spider webs and mud dauber nests and hanging wires are obvious fixes. Steve |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
"Steve B" wrote in message ... "CalifBill" wrote in message ... "Snag" wrote in message ... Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... Have had a thermocouple go bad. Bad connection on the 110v side and bad thermocouple on the gas side. I had one quit because a wire came loose. There are some things inside the cover that need a tester and a trained tech, but some things, like spider webs and mud dauber nests and hanging wires are obvious fixes. Steve I found the bad AC connection when pulling out the gas thermocouple. The spade connector was not in the spade part, but was touching, at least for a while, inside the plastic shield. |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Snag" fired this volley in : Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? Servel-cyle units are pretty solid, unless they develop a leak in the sealed system (which happens pretty often at about 10-15 years age, since the system is all iron pipe, which rusts). Since the heating element leads are exposed clearly in all RV units, you might consider disconnecting them and powering the (120V) element directly from a patch cord. If the unit cools, it's the controller. LLoyd Yup , that's one of the suggested tests . Thanks ! -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
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OT (?) Camper refrigerators
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OT (?) Camper refrigerators
CalifBill wrote:
"Steve B" wrote in message ... "CalifBill" wrote in message ... "Snag" wrote in message ... Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... Have had a thermocouple go bad. Bad connection on the 110v side and bad thermocouple on the gas side. I had one quit because a wire came loose. There are some things inside the cover that need a tester and a trained tech, but some things, like spider webs and mud dauber nests and hanging wires are obvious fixes. Steve I found the bad AC connection when pulling out the gas thermocouple. The spade connector was not in the spade part, but was touching, at least for a while, inside the plastic shield. Hopefully it'll be something simple like that loose wire or blocked airflow .. Thanks to both of you ! -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
"Snag" wrote in message ... CalifBill wrote: "Steve B" wrote in message ... "CalifBill" wrote in message ... "Snag" wrote in message ... Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... Have had a thermocouple go bad. Bad connection on the 110v side and bad thermocouple on the gas side. I had one quit because a wire came loose. There are some things inside the cover that need a tester and a trained tech, but some things, like spider webs and mud dauber nests and hanging wires are obvious fixes. Steve I found the bad AC connection when pulling out the gas thermocouple. The spade connector was not in the spade part, but was touching, at least for a while, inside the plastic shield. Hopefully it'll be something simple like that loose wire or blocked airflow . Thanks to both of you ! -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF My BIL, who is not mechanically inclined, plus lazy, took his to the dealer. It sat two weeks. He finally went over and raised hell. The manager had the tekkie look at it. He found a broken wire and a spiders nest. Fixed it in five minutes. Charged him $180 for two hours labor. Sometimes, one can fix them. Other times, it's time to take it to the shop. If you know anyone familiar with electronics, they can help trouble shoot a relay or other device very inexpensively. They are expensive to have worked on because there aren't a lot of people who are familiar with them, and secondly, they got you by the grapes. Steve |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
Steve B wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message ... CalifBill wrote: "Steve B" wrote in message ... "CalifBill" wrote in message ... "Snag" wrote in message ... Well , the cooling fins are metal ... We have a camper with a dual-power refr. unit . It stopped suddenly on Monday ... It's a Dometic RM2652 unit , if that helps . I haven't been onsite to diagnose yet , but have downloaded a few pages of diagnostics to my thumb drive . Preliminary indications are towards a main board gone T/U ... Does anyone here have any info on common weaknesses of these units ? Is the main board a "usual suspect" when they just die ? -- Snag Still learnin' ... Have had a thermocouple go bad. Bad connection on the 110v side and bad thermocouple on the gas side. I had one quit because a wire came loose. There are some things inside the cover that need a tester and a trained tech, but some things, like spider webs and mud dauber nests and hanging wires are obvious fixes. Steve I found the bad AC connection when pulling out the gas thermocouple. The spade connector was not in the spade part, but was touching, at least for a while, inside the plastic shield. Hopefully it'll be something simple like that loose wire or blocked airflow . Thanks to both of you ! -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF My BIL, who is not mechanically inclined, plus lazy, took his to the dealer. It sat two weeks. He finally went over and raised hell. The manager had the tekkie look at it. He found a broken wire and a spiders nest. Fixed it in five minutes. Charged him $180 for two hours labor. Sometimes, one can fix them. Other times, it's time to take it to the shop. If you know anyone familiar with electronics, they can help trouble shoot a relay or other device very inexpensively. They are expensive to have worked on because there aren't a lot of people who are familiar with them, and secondly, they got you by the grapes. Steve I'm moderately adept at troubleshooting stuff . Especially when I have about 20 pages of info downloaded onto a thumb drive ... plug it into the laptop , got all the tests right in front of me . Technology's just alright with me ! I suspect the main board is gone , which is about a hundred bucks plus shipping . Hey , I might get lucky and find something cheaper to repair . I should know by Saturday afternoon ! -- Snag If it's not one thing it's another ! (R. Rosanna-danna) |
OT (?) Camper refrigerators
"Snag" wrote in message ... I'm moderately adept at troubleshooting stuff . Especially when I have about 20 pages of info downloaded onto a thumb drive ... plug it into the laptop , got all the tests right in front of me . Technology's just alright with me ! I suspect the main board is gone , which is about a hundred bucks plus shipping . Hey , I might get lucky and find something cheaper to repair . I should know by Saturday afternoon ! -- Snag If it's not one thing it's another ! (R. Rosanna-danna) You probably already know that the fridge has to be level (or bouncing down the road) in order to make "cold"... and if you smell mouse **** inside, it's probably the ammonia leaking out of the cooling system. Every time my brother-in-law called about his fridge not working it was because he didn't have the RV level... except the last time, when it smelled like mouse **** and I had to replace the entire cooling section with an Amish-built super-cooler. I think we bought it from these guys: http://rvcoolingunit.com/s298/Tech-I...8.aspx?SID=298 |
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