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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Painting over anodize?
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 22:23:25 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote: "Gone Fishin'" wrote in message al-september.org... Confirmed: sanding these parts 24 hours after spraying 2nd coat and the paint is not dry. Gummed up the sand paper. Boy, does this Rustoleum paint dry slowly... It says 48 hours, but at this rate it looks like it will be longer. Is Krylon a better choice? Or...? Thanks. Rustoleum is good paint. There are other heavy-duty enamels, from the majors, but most straight alkyds are going to take a long time to dry hard. That's just enamel. Rustoleum probably is slower to dry than most. In many applications, they don't use a second coat. It's better to use a good primer, and then the top coat will lay on a lot thicker than each coat used without primer. Get a compatible primer made for use with the enamel. There are a lot of industrial-type paint systems out there today, including several polyurethane systems that are tough and that produce a nice finish. Probably the toughest is two-part polyurethane, which comes in brushable versions. Don't touch the spray-coat versions unless you study it well. It's highly toxic and you can't protect yourself with just a respirator. Rustoleum takes at least a week to get as hard as it ever will, which isn't very. There are respirator cartridges that are NIOSH-rated for urethanes. The more significant issue is getting a good face-to-respirator seal. |
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