Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 22:04:28 -0400, the infamous "Phil Kangas"
scrawled the following:

Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp

If that were the case, you'd have to have special thin wrenches
(spanners to the Brits watching) for the bottom jam nut. That's nuts.

Assemble and torque with the regular nut, then jam it with the jam
nut, or course. The jam nut's name is self-explanatory, wot?

--
Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who finds everything
evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to everything.
-- Johann K. Lavater

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp



If the torque called for is near standard torque, a half-nut is likely to
strip before the torque is reached. Put the full nut on first, torque it,
then the half nut. That's why lots of folks call those thin nuts "jam
nuts".

Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half nut 1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with the most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry

Dale Scroggins wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp



If the torque called for is near standard torque, a half-nut is likely
to strip before the torque is reached. Put the full nut on first,
torque it, then the half nut. That's why lots of folks call those thin
nuts "jam nuts".

Then HOW MUCH torque do you put on the Jam nut??

Jerry Wass wrote:

Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half nut 1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with the most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry


The link broke because it wasn't posted properly:

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/Analysis/connection/info_jamnut.asp


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!

"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
. ..
Dale Scroggins wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp



If the torque called for is near standard torque, a half-nut is likely to
strip before the torque is reached. Put the full nut on first, torque
it, then the half nut. That's why lots of folks call those thin nuts
"jam nuts".

Then HOW MUCH torque do you put on the Jam nut??

I've only used them on airplanes, so don't know about practices in other
industries. Here's a brief discussion in a catalog:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...an315an316.php

I found it by googling AN316, 'cause that's the number I remembered. You
can also look at chapter 7 of AC 43.13-1B on the FAA website for torque
value comparisons of the AN315-x (full nut) and AN316-xL (checknut). The
light nut takes about 60% of the torque listed for the full nut.

"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
. ..
Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half nut
1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with the
most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry

The URL link works, you messed up on the line wrap....;))

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
. ..
Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil



http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half nut
1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with the
most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry

The URL link works, you messed up on the line wrap....;))



I found another link to this subject and it says to put the
jam
nut under the full nut! Watch the line wrap, Jerry......
phil

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/tech/jamnut.htm

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 03:42:38 GMT, the infamous Jerry Wass
scrawled the following:

Dale Scroggins wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp



If the torque called for is near standard torque, a half-nut is likely
to strip before the torque is reached. Put the full nut on first,
torque it, then the half nut. That's why lots of folks call those thin
nuts "jam nuts".

Then HOW MUCH torque do you put on the Jam nut??

37.5867432% of the torque of the main nut, of course.

--
Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who finds everything
evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to everything.
-- Johann K. Lavater

On Jul 11, 9:24*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 03:42:38 GMT, the infamous Jerry Wass
scrawled the following:



Dale Scroggins wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp

If the torque called for is near standard torque, a half-nut is likely
to strip before the torque is reached. *Put the full nut on first,
torque it, then the half nut. *That's why lots of folks call those thin
nuts "jam nuts".

Then HOW MUCH torque do you put on the Jam nut??

37.5867432% of the torque of the main nut, of course.

--
Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who finds everything
evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to everything.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Johann K. Lavater



This debate is as old as... nuts and bolts have been around.

I have read an on-line dissertation on this argument that claims one
thing or another... I forget what... a senior moment probably.

Here are my thoughts on jam nuts.

A properly designed and torqued screw/bolt/nut does not require jam
nuts; for example car and truck wheel bolts/studs. Also cylinder head
screws and brake assembly screws. Structural fasteners on bridges and
buildings.

I do a fair bit of consulting in automotive plants and the plant
policy is jam nuts on everything including building structural bolts!
When I pointed out automotive practices the guy was clearly
dumfounded; I don't know if they changed practices since that
business has been pretty quiet lately.

Having said all that there are applications where threaded fasteners
cannot be torqued adequately and, if subjected to vibration or
cyclical loading, would "work" loose.

If it is a hard assembly joint such as holding two or more metal parts
together, place the full thickness nut on first and torque it. Then
place on the jam nut and torque it (if it strips ease up a little on
the next one:-)).

If it is a soft assembly joint such as plastic components or heavily
gasketed joints, place the thin nut first followed by the full
thickness nut.

If the nuts are to form a head on a rod or piece of studding such as a
sliding hammer rod or a draw bar, place the thin jam nut on the impact
or load side, with the full thickness nut away from the load side.

The foregoing takes into consideration the thread clearances and
ensures that the service load is taken by the full-size nut.

Wolfgang

"wolfgang" wrote in message On Jul 11, 9:24 am, Larry
Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 03:42:38 GMT, the infamous Jerry Wass
scrawled the following:



Dale Scroggins wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...s/connection/i
nfo
_jamnut.asp

If the torque called for is near standard torque, a
half-nut is likely
to strip before the torque is reached. Put the full nut
on first,
torque it, then the half nut. That's why lots of folks
call those thin
nuts "jam nuts".

Then HOW MUCH torque do you put on the Jam nut??

37.5867432% of the torque of the main nut, of course.

--
Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who
finds everything
evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to
everything.
-- Johann K. Lavater



This debate is as old as... nuts and bolts have been around.

I have read an on-line dissertation on this argument that
claims one
thing or another... I forget what... a senior moment
probably.

Here are my thoughts on jam nuts.

A properly designed and torqued screw/bolt/nut does not
require jam
nuts; for example car and truck wheel bolts/studs. Also
cylinder head
screws and brake assembly screws. Structural fasteners on
bridges and
buildings.

I do a fair bit of consulting in automotive plants and the
plant
policy is jam nuts on everything including building
structural bolts!
When I pointed out automotive practices the guy was clearly
dumfounded; I don't know if they changed practices since
that
business has been pretty quiet lately.

Having said all that there are applications where threaded
fasteners
cannot be torqued adequately and, if subjected to vibration
or
cyclical loading, would "work" loose.

If it is a hard assembly joint such as holding two or more
metal parts
together, place the full thickness nut on first and torque
it. Then
place on the jam nut and torque it (if it strips ease up a
little on
the next one:-)).

If it is a soft assembly joint such as plastic components or
heavily
gasketed joints, place the thin nut first followed by the
full
thickness nut.

If the nuts are to form a head on a rod or piece of studding
such as a
sliding hammer rod or a draw bar, place the thin jam nut on
the impact
or load side, with the full thickness nut away from the load
side.

The foregoing takes into consideration the thread clearances
and
ensures that the service load is taken by the full-size nut.

Wolfgang


Interesting comment, Wolfgang. Thanks. The situation I have
that
started my search is the lower bearing on the swivel of a
log
loading clam. This bearing takes the full load of the clam
and it has
a hydraulic motor to rotate the clam. The bearing is held in
place
with two nuts locked together with a tanged washer, the tab
that
locates in a groove gets sheared off in service allowing the
nuts
to come loose. One plan I have is to use the same style
locknut
used to adjust the spindle bearing in a lathe or right angle
head
for the mill. I've made a thinner 'jam' nut intended to go
between
the bearing and this nut.Another option is the style used in
the
old Dana 44 4x4 front axle bearings that have two nuts with
square notches secured by a washer that has holes in it to
fit a
pin mounted on the inner nut and anchored in the groove in
the
spindle. This washer can be made much heavier than that
flimsy
tab washer on the log clam. Do you guys have any other ideas
for this? phil

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"wolfgang" wrote in message On Jul 11, 9:24 am, Larry
Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 03:42:38 GMT, the infamous Jerry Wass
scrawled the following:



Dale Scroggins wrote:

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...s/connection/i
nfo
_jamnut.asp

If the torque called for is near standard torque, a
half-nut is likely
to strip before the torque is reached. Put the full nut
on first,
torque it, then the half nut. That's why lots of folks
call those thin
nuts "jam nuts".

Then HOW MUCH torque do you put on the Jam nut??

37.5867432% of the torque of the main nut, of course.

--
Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who
finds everything
evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to
everything.
-- Johann K. Lavater



This debate is as old as... nuts and bolts have been around.

I have read an on-line dissertation on this argument that
claims one
thing or another... I forget what... a senior moment
probably.

Here are my thoughts on jam nuts.

A properly designed and torqued screw/bolt/nut does not
require jam
nuts; for example car and truck wheel bolts/studs. Also
cylinder head
screws and brake assembly screws. Structural fasteners on
bridges and
buildings.

I do a fair bit of consulting in automotive plants and the
plant
policy is jam nuts on everything including building
structural bolts!
When I pointed out automotive practices the guy was clearly
dumfounded; I don't know if they changed practices since
that
business has been pretty quiet lately.

Having said all that there are applications where threaded
fasteners
cannot be torqued adequately and, if subjected to vibration
or
cyclical loading, would "work" loose.

If it is a hard assembly joint such as holding two or more
metal parts
together, place the full thickness nut on first and torque
it. Then
place on the jam nut and torque it (if it strips ease up a
little on
the next one:-)).

If it is a soft assembly joint such as plastic components or
heavily
gasketed joints, place the thin nut first followed by the
full
thickness nut.

If the nuts are to form a head on a rod or piece of studding
such as a
sliding hammer rod or a draw bar, place the thin jam nut on
the impact
or load side, with the full thickness nut away from the load
side.

The foregoing takes into consideration the thread clearances
and
ensures that the service load is taken by the full-size nut.

Wolfgang


Interesting comment, Wolfgang. Thanks. The situation I have
that
started my search is the lower bearing on the swivel of a
log
loading clam. This bearing takes the full load of the clam
and it has
a hydraulic motor to rotate the clam. The bearing is held in
place
with two nuts locked together with a tanged washer, the tab
that
locates in a groove gets sheared off in service allowing the
nuts
to come loose. One plan I have is to use the same style
locknut
used to adjust the spindle bearing in a lathe or right angle
head
for the mill. I've made a thinner 'jam' nut intended to go
between
the bearing and this nut.Another option is the style used in
the
old Dana 44 4x4 front axle bearings that have two nuts with
square notches secured by a washer that has holes in it to
fit a
pin mounted on the inner nut and anchored in the groove in
the
spindle. This washer can be made much heavier than that
flimsy
tab washer on the log clam. Do you guys have any other ideas
for this? phil



You may be using too high of a grade of bolt. The grade 8's will loosen
easier in a cyclic loading situation than a lower grade. The elastic zone
is smaller. The bolt may go in to the plastic zone (stretches and does not
return to size). Has been the case for years. I remember this when in
engineering school and that was a long time ago. They said then the jam nut
on first and the large nut on 2nd. Would have to dig out the old texts to
see the reasoning.

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
Interesting comment, Wolfgang. Thanks. The situation I
have
that
started my search is the lower bearing on the swivel of
a
log
loading clam. This bearing takes the full load of the
clam
and it has
a hydraulic motor to rotate the clam. The bearing is
held in
place
with two nuts locked together with a tanged washer, the
tab
that
locates in a groove gets sheared off in service allowing
the
nuts
to come loose. One plan I have is to use the same style
locknut
used to adjust the spindle bearing in a lathe or right
angle
head
for the mill. I've made a thinner 'jam' nut intended to
go
between
the bearing and this nut.Another option is the style
used in
the
old Dana 44 4x4 front axle bearings that have two nuts
with
square notches secured by a washer that has holes in it
to
fit a
pin mounted on the inner nut and anchored in the groove
in
the
spindle. This washer can be made much heavier than that
flimsy
tab washer on the log clam. Do you guys have any other
ideas
for this? phil



You may be using too high of a grade of bolt. The grade
8's will loosen
easier in a cyclic loading situation than a lower grade.
The elastic zone
is smaller. The bolt may go in to the plastic zone
(stretches and does not
return to size). Has been the case for years. I
remember this when in
engineering school and that was a long time ago. They
said then the jam nut
on first and the large nut on 2nd. Would have to dig out
the old texts to
see the reasoning.


There are no grade 8 bolts involved with this, Bill. The
thread in these
N-10 nuts is 1.967 " O.D. x 18 tpi!

Phil Kangas wrote:
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
. ..
Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half nut
1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with the
most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry

The URL link works, you messed up on the line wrap....;))

WELL I WRAPPED THE END OF THE LINE AROUND MY LITTLE FINGER =ENTERED IT & GOT
USER IS NOT LOGGED IN
Log In Registration To Do List Online Analysis Developers
Partnership About EPC Server
Sorry.....No File With That Name Here---------AND THEY Wanted money too!!!


I found another link to this subject and it says to put the
jam
nut under the full nut! Watch the line wrap, Jerry......
phil

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/tech/jamnut.htm

However this one is very informative

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:30:46 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


There are no grade 8 bolts involved with this, Bill. The
thread in these
N-10 nuts is 1.967 " O.D. x 18 tpi!


If I understand, this is a bearing nut and presumably the force the
nut is applying to the bearing is negligible compared to the force
between a nut and locknut. If so, this is one of those cases where the
order of the nuts doesn't much matter.

As far as options go, have a look at Whittet-Higgins' bearing
locknuts. They offer several alternatives to the traditional bent tab
lockwasher. You can get them thru a PT supplier like Motion Industries
or Kaman.
http://www.whittet-higgins.com/


--
Ned Simmons

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Jerry Wass wrote:
Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half nut 1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with the most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry


The link broke because it wasn't posted properly:

http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/Analysis/connection/info_jamnut.asp

Yeah, I didn't even see it Untill I looked a 2nd time--then I added it
on & got the screwy answer--- the url You just posted worked good-&
confirmed my analysis of the situation.

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:30:46 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


There are no grade 8 bolts involved with this, Bill. The
thread in these
N-10 nuts is 1.967 " O.D. x 18 tpi!


If I understand, this is a bearing nut and presumably the
force the
nut is applying to the bearing is negligible compared to
the force
between a nut and locknut. If so, this is one of those
cases where the
order of the nuts doesn't much matter.

As far as options go, have a look at Whittet-Higgins'
bearing
locknuts. They offer several alternatives to the
traditional bent tab
lockwasher. You can get them thru a PT supplier like
Motion Industries
or Kaman.
http://www.whittet-higgins.com/


--
Ned Simmons

The bearing in question is taking the entire weight of a
loaded clam on a log
truck. These clams take an awful beating in service and one
of the main
complaints is the locknut assembly failing on the main rotor
swivel pin.
It appears that at some times the bearing is putting so much
pressure on the
locknut assembly that it shears off that silly little flat
tab in the groove and
that's all she wrote for that.........so these guys want a
'fix' that works........
I'll take a look at that site Ned, they may have what we
want. Thanks.
phil
phil

"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
Jerry Wass wrote:
Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half
nut 1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with
the most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry


The link broke because it wasn't posted properly:


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...connection/inf
o_jamnut.asp

Yeah, I didn't even see it Untill I looked a 2nd
time--then I added it
on & got the screwy answer--- the url You just posted
worked good-&
confirmed my analysis of the situation.


So yesterday and today I went ahead and made two locknut
sets. One is like the
Dana 44 front axle spindle bearing nut assembly only larger.
The anchor pin on the
inner is 1/4" dia the holed washer is 3/16" thk and the tab
is 5/16 w 0.100 high.
But it seems to me that under cyclic loading the tab in the
groove will still wear
out eventually. So I made another locknut like the nuts on a
machine tool
spindle where the nut has a cut normal to the axis near one
end halfway through
and with a screw to bend over the resulting ear to lock it.
And with a thin locknut
between the bearing and this special nut I think Bob's My
Uncle........
phil

"Ned Simmons" kindly wrote in message
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:30:46 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


If I understand, this is a bearing nut and presumably the
force the
nut is applying to the bearing is negligible compared to
the force
between a nut and locknut. If so, this is one of those
cases where the
order of the nuts doesn't much matter.

As far as options go, have a look at Whittet-Higgins'
bearing
locknuts. They offer several alternatives to the
traditional bent tab
lockwasher. You can get them thru a PT supplier like
Motion Industries
or Kaman.
http://www.whittet-higgins.com/


--
Ned Simmons

They've got it by golly. NSH-10 Shoelock would be
it........thanks......

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
Jerry Wass wrote:
Phil Kangas wrote:
Say you're assembling a structure that requires jam
nuts on bolts. Would you put the full nut on first
with the half thickness jam nut on top of it or
would you put the jam nut on first, torque it and
then put the full nut on top of the jam? I found this
site looking for jam nuts and thought it may be of
interest to the group. phil


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...onnection/info
_jamnut.asp


Your URL doesn't work---but I hope you're saying half
nut 1st, then full
nut to lock it---this puts the tension on the nut with
the most threads.
at least that's my analysis of it. Jerry


The link broke because it wasn't posted properly:


http://www.epcserver.com/Structural/...connection/inf
o_jamnut.asp

Yeah, I didn't even see it Untill I looked a 2nd
time--then I added it
on & got the screwy answer--- the url You just posted
worked good-&
confirmed my analysis of the situation.


So yesterday and today I went ahead and made two locknut
sets. One is like the
Dana 44 front axle spindle bearing nut assembly only larger.
The anchor pin on the
inner is 1/4" dia the holed washer is 3/16" thk and the tab
is 5/16 w 0.100 high.
But it seems to me that under cyclic loading the tab in the
groove will still wear
out eventually. So I made another locknut like the nuts on a
machine tool
spindle where the nut has a cut normal to the axis near one
end halfway through
and with a screw to bend over the resulting ear to lock it.
And with a thin locknut
between the bearing and this special nut I think Bob's My
Uncle........
phil



Maybe a greased washer between the locking tab plate and the nut. Reduce
the side loading on the tab.

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:15:44 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


They've got it by golly. NSH-10 Shoelock would be
it........thanks......


That's one I was thinking of, this is another.
http://www.whittet-higgins.com/part.php?series_id=5

Ruland (the shaft collar mfr) makes these as well. Ruland's p/n is
TCN-10-F.

--
Ned Simmons

"Phil Kangas" wrote:

They've got it by golly. NSH-10 Shoelock would be
it........thanks......

Neat. I was putting a old cinci lathe back together yesterday that I welded up a worn key
way on and bushed the pulley. Anyway, there were two nuts holding things together each
with a nicely milled insert that was threaded and was clamped to the shaft by a set screw.
Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:15:44 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


They've got it by golly. NSH-10 Shoelock would be
it........thanks......


That's one I was thinking of, this is another.
http://www.whittet-higgins.com/part.php?series_id=5

Ruland (the shaft collar mfr) makes these as well.
Ruland's p/n is
TCN-10-F.

--
Ned Simmons

So this is what we're gonna do with this situation:
Inner nut 9/16 long first on and has a 1/4 pin sticking
out of the face. Next is the holed washer 3/16 thick
anchored in the spindle groove with enough holes around
to match most any position of the inner nut. Then the
outer nut 3/4 thick with a 0.20 slot cut halfway through
square to the axis of the nut and leaving a flap 0.15 thick
with a 1/4 nc csk shcs to 'bend over' the flap left by the
slot to lock that nut and we outta be golden, eih?
Might be way cheaper to order them from W-H
but this is way more fun 'cause there's only one !
phil