Just a little follow up on the sandblasting cabinet. This is a "trinco
24" cabinet, 24x18 inside. I modified it very slightly by shortening
its legs a little, so that it would fit where I wanted it to fit. Also
welded a grate support rod that was lost during the years.

I filled it with Harbor Freight blast media and it works great for my
typical purposes, like sandblasting a bench vise to prepare it for
painting.

The blasting gun, at my given pressure, seems to clean relatively
quickly. Fortunately, the compressor seems to easily keep up with
sandblaster's flow.

The vacuum dust remover seems to work, as well.

I have a couple of questions.

1. If the blast media gets clumpy due to moisture, despite using a air
dryer (say I forgot to turn it on), I could just dry it in my barbeque
on a low setting, for a couple of hours, right?

2. Are the dust and blast media that accumulate in the "reclaimer"
meant to be recycled in the cabinet, until the media gets too
contaminated with blasting residue, or breaks down? The vacuum is for
keeping the blaster's inside visible and preventing outside
contamination, not for separating grit from blasting residue?

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On Mar 16, 11:02*am, Ignoramus24511 ignoramus24...@NOSPAM.
24511.invalid wrote:

I've had good results using the sand from the side of the road,
filtered through window screen to remove gravel.

On 2009-03-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Mar 16, 11:02?am, Ignoramus24511 ignoramus24...@NOSPAM.
24511.invalid wrote:

I've had good results using the sand from the side of the road,
filtered through window screen to remove gravel.

I have seen some very big warnings against using sand, warning us
about silicosis and other terrifying ailments. They also say that
silica sand breaks down too quickly.

At $30 per 50 lbs, I think that blast media is not that expensive.

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Reply within;



I have a couple of questions.

1. If the blast media gets clumpy due to moisture, despite using a air
dryer (say I forgot to turn it on), I could just dry it in my barbeque
on a low setting, for a couple of hours, right?

Never had that much of a moisture problem. Are you draining the compressor
regularly? Install a water trap 10 ft from the air compressor in line with
the cabinet if you don't have one.


2. Are the dust and blast media that accumulate in the "reclaimer"
meant to be recycled in the cabinet, until the media gets too
contaminated with blasting residue, or breaks down? The vacuum is for
keeping the blaster's inside visible and preventing outside
contamination, not for separating grit from blasting residue?

My experience is that what does into my vacuum is beyond useful. More like
powder without any abrasive properties. Your milage may vary.
Thanks,
Steve in OK

"Ignoramus24511" wrote in message
...
Just a little follow up on the sandblasting cabinet. This is a "trinco
24" cabinet, 24x18 inside. I modified it very slightly by shortening
its legs a little, so that it would fit where I wanted it to fit. Also
welded a grate support rod that was lost during the years.

I filled it with Harbor Freight blast media and it works great for my
typical purposes, like sandblasting a bench vise to prepare it for
painting.

The blasting gun, at my given pressure, seems to clean relatively
quickly. Fortunately, the compressor seems to easily keep up with
sandblaster's flow.

The vacuum dust remover seems to work, as well.

I have a couple of questions.

1. If the blast media gets clumpy due to moisture, despite using a air
dryer (say I forgot to turn it on), I could just dry it in my barbeque
on a low setting, for a couple of hours, right?
Yes, or just spread it out in the sun, and toss it every 1/2 hour with a
garden rake.
Unless it actually gets soaked, it will dry quickly.


2. Are the dust and blast media that accumulate in the "reclaimer"
meant to be recycled in the cabinet, until the media gets too
contaminated with blasting residue, or breaks down?
All of the above.


The vacuum is for
keeping the blaster's inside visible and preventing outside
contamination, not for separating grit from blasting residue?
Correct.


Experiment with different media. Glass beads, silica sand, river/concrete
sand, walnut shells, all have different properties. Walnut shells will blast
paint from soft materials like aluminum, with out removing any parent metal,
while silica will remove material from even steel or glass. If you machine
will circulate steel shot, you can even do surface stress relieving at low
pressures. As someone else mentioned, for everyday blasting and painting,
river/concrete sand is real cheap and works well.

"Ignoramus24511" wrote in message
...
On 2009-03-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Mar 16, 11:02?am, Ignoramus24511 ignoramus24...@NOSPAM.
24511.invalid wrote:

I've had good results using the sand from the side of the road,
filtered through window screen to remove gravel.

I have seen some very big warnings against using sand, warning us
about silicosis and other terrifying ailments. They also say that
silica sand breaks down too quickly.

At $30 per 50 lbs, I think that blast media is not that expensive.

--

that's aluminium oxide if it's brown. it tends to fracture and get smaller.
the edges on the fractures aren't very sharp, so as it wears, it cuts less
and less. it wears out after a while.

if you get silicon carbide (black) it fractures sharp and keeps cutting.

i wouldn't use sand unless i was using a hepa filter on the dust extraction,
or at least a very good respirator down to submicron sizes.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts

On 2009-03-16, charlie wrote:

"Ignoramus24511" wrote in message
...
On 2009-03-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Mar 16, 11:02?am, Ignoramus24511 ignoramus24...@NOSPAM.
24511.invalid wrote:

I've had good results using the sand from the side of the road,
filtered through window screen to remove gravel.

I have seen some very big warnings against using sand, warning us
about silicosis and other terrifying ailments. They also say that
silica sand breaks down too quickly.

At $30 per 50 lbs, I think that blast media is not that expensive.

--

that's aluminium oxide if it's brown. it tends to fracture and get smaller.
the edges on the fractures aren't very sharp, so as it wears, it cuts less
and less. it wears out after a while.

if you get silicon carbide (black) it fractures sharp and keeps cutting.

I could not find any label on the media, but it is dark grey in
color.

i wouldn't use sand unless i was using a hepa filter on the dust extraction,
or at least a very good respirator down to submicron sizes.

That's my own conclusion.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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The brown can also be called Garnet. THe gemstone name.
And the name used on sand paper...

Martin

Ignoramus24511 wrote:
On 2009-03-16, charlie wrote:
"Ignoramus24511" wrote in message
...
On 2009-03-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Mar 16, 11:02?am, Ignoramus24511 ignoramus24...@NOSPAM.
24511.invalid wrote:

I've had good results using the sand from the side of the road,
filtered through window screen to remove gravel.
I have seen some very big warnings against using sand, warning us
about silicosis and other terrifying ailments. They also say that
silica sand breaks down too quickly.

At $30 per 50 lbs, I think that blast media is not that expensive.

--
that's aluminium oxide if it's brown. it tends to fracture and get smaller.
the edges on the fractures aren't very sharp, so as it wears, it cuts less
and less. it wears out after a while.

if you get silicon carbide (black) it fractures sharp and keeps cutting.

I could not find any label on the media, but it is dark grey in
color.

i wouldn't use sand unless i was using a hepa filter on the dust extraction,
or at least a very good respirator down to submicron sizes.

That's my own conclusion.