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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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CFM
--I'm slowly working out the intricacies of tooting whistles. I've
found that they're easy to toot on just a few psi of air from the ass end of a vacuum cleaner; i.e. a HVLP source. But if I attach a whistle to a manifold and use a solenoid valve to turn it on and off I need as much as 80psi to get the same effect from the whistle. This leads me to believe that either the narrow passages in the valve is behaving like a flow restrictor or the narrow passage where an air hose is connected to the manifold is the problem. Can't do anything about the valve but I could add a tee between manifold and valve and add a second or third source of air from the compressor. --Anywayyyy I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's been there, done that. Suggestions welcome. -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Politics is a sinkhole for Hacking the Trailing Edge! : people without hobbies... www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
Your assumptions are correct and this is where it gets expensive. You need a
solonoid valve that has a high flow rate. The bigger the horn, the more flow is required. These valves are expensive and hard to find. Steve "steamer" wrote in message ... --I'm slowly working out the intricacies of tooting whistles. I've found that they're easy to toot on just a few psi of air from the ass end of a vacuum cleaner; i.e. a HVLP source. But if I attach a whistle to a manifold and use a solenoid valve to turn it on and off I need as much as 80psi to get the same effect from the whistle. This leads me to believe that either the narrow passages in the valve is behaving like a flow restrictor or the narrow passage where an air hose is connected to the manifold is the problem. Can't do anything about the valve but I could add a tee between manifold and valve and add a second or third source of air from the compressor. --Anywayyyy I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's been there, done that. Suggestions welcome. -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Politics is a sinkhole for Hacking the Trailing Edge! : people without hobbies... www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
On Mar 12, 12:46*pm, steamer wrote:
* * * * --I'm slowly working out the intricacies of tooting whistles. I've found that they're easy to toot on just a few psi of air from the ass end of a vacuum cleaner; i.e. a HVLP source. But if I attach a whistle to a manifold and use a solenoid valve to turn it on and off I need as much as 80psi to get the same effect from the whistle. This leads me to believe that either the narrow passages in the valve is behaving like a flow restrictor or the narrow passage where an air hose is connected to the manifold is the problem. Can't do anything about the valve but I could add a tee between manifold and valve and add a second or third source of air from the compressor. * * * * --Anywayyyy I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's been there, done that. Suggestions welcome. -- * * * * "Steamboat Ed" Haas * * * * : *Politics is a sinkhole for * * * * Hacking the Trailing Edge! *: *people without hobbies.... * * * * * * * * * * * * *www.nmpproducts.com * * * * * * * * * *---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- Maybe you can take a good fair-sized 1/4 turn ball valve and attach a small air cylinder to operate it? Maybe use a simple compound lever to reduce the stroke requirement and increase the activation speed. Then use the solenoid on the air cylinder. Could use a single-acting cylinder and a spring return to keep it simple. Dave |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
On Mar 12, 12:46 pm, steamer wrote:
--I'm slowly working out the intricacies of tooting whistles. I've found that they're easy to toot on just a few psi of air from the ass end of a vacuum cleaner; i.e. a HVLP source. But if I attach a whistle to a manifold and use a solenoid valve to turn it on and off I need as much as 80psi to get the same effect from the whistle. This leads me to believe that either the narrow passages in the valve is behaving like a flow restrictor or the narrow passage where an air hose is connected to the manifold is the problem. Can't do anything about the valve but I could add a tee between manifold and valve and add a second or third source of air from the compressor. --Anywayyyy I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's been there, done that. Suggestions welcome. -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Politics is a sinkhole for Hacking the Trailing Edge! : people without hobbies... www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- You have a couple of other good suggestions, mine would be to take the output of the valve through a venture to increase flow rate something like the high flow low pressure from the vacuum. CarlBoyd |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
Steve Lusardi wrote: Your assumptions are correct and this is where it gets expensive. You need a solonoid valve that has a high flow rate. The bigger the horn, the more flow is required. These valves are expensive and hard to find. Think a simple homebuilt solenoid "ball" type valve. The ball valve can be a chromed shaft with a cross hole fitted into a delrin manifold and rotated 90 degrees on/off by a small solenoid and crank arm. At low pressure, the small leakage from a slightly loose fit won't matter. Feed the large dia manifold from an accumulator tank, I'd suggest one of the 10 gal portable tanks with a large port like 2" welded in, and fed via the normal port with a regulator set to a few psi. Perhaps measure the PSI from the vacuum to get an idea of how few you need. |
#6
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CFM
On Mar 12, 1:03*pm, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Your assumptions are correct and this is where it gets expensive. You need a solonoid valve that has a high flow rate. The bigger the horn, the more flow is required. These valves are expensive and hard to find. Steve Maybe the water control solenoid valves off a washing machine? |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
Jim Wilkins wrote:
Maybe the water control solenoid valves off a washing machine? --Gonna be running steam eventually and propane too so I like my donated explosion-proof ones.. -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Politics is a sinkhole for Hacking the Trailing Edge! : people without hobbies... www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
On Mar 12, 4:29*pm, steamer wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote: Maybe the water control solenoid valves off a washing machine? * * * * --Gonna be running steam eventually and propane too so I like my donated explosion-proof ones.. -- * * * * "Steamboat Ed" Haas * * * * : *Politics is a sinkhole for * * * * Hacking the Trailing Edge! *: *people without hobbies.... * * * * * * * * * * * * *www.nmpproducts.com * * * * * * * * * *---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. Dave |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
On Mar 12, 6:06*pm, wrote:
On Mar 12, 4:29*pm, steamer wrote: Jim Wilkins wrote: Maybe the water control solenoid valves off a washing machine? * * * * --Gonna be running steam eventually and propane too so I like my donated explosion-proof ones.. Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. Dave Has anyone here ever made DIY spool valves? |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
Actually-In most large older organ systems they made the large valves
from wood and use a leather flap seal-I tried it myself with a hole saw and some wood scraps and used small 1/2 inch stroke solenoids to open them-I used entension springs to hold them shut. You can also make a wood manifold box under them and have a complete, low profile unit. I used 2" holes in mine. You might have to experiment. I havent played with that kinda thing for some time, but it was fun while it lasted......I did run mine from a vac at first. Mark On Mar 12, 6:06�pm, wrote: On Mar 12, 4:29�pm, steamer wrote: Jim Wilkins wrote: Maybe the water control solenoid valves off a washing machine? � � � � --Gonna be running steam eventually and propane too so I like my donated explosion-proof ones.. -- � � � � "Steamboat Ed" Haas � � � � : �Politics is a sinkhole for � � � � Hacking the Trailing Edge! �: �people without hobbies... � � � � � � � � � � � � �www.nmpproducts.com � � � � � � � � � �---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. Dave |
#11
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CFM
steamer wrote:
... easy to toot on just a few psi of air ... a HVLP source. ... This is the key: HV & LP. Which suggests butterfly valves. Easily made to any size & easily controlled. Bob |
#12
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CFM
steamer writes:
This leads me to believe that either the narrow passages in the valve is behaving like a flow restrictor or the narrow passage where an air hose is connected to the manifold is the problem. You want a "dump" valve. A big passage that opens responsively with little energy of actuation. This sounds a lot like the throttle on the air intake on an internal combustion engine. How do they solve that problem? |
#13
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CFM
Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Mar 12, 1:03 pm, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: Your assumptions are correct and this is where it gets expensive. You need a solonoid valve that has a high flow rate. The bigger the horn, the more flow is required. These valves are expensive and hard to find. Steve Maybe the water control solenoid valves off a washing machine? No, these are pilot-operated servo valves (of ingenious construction). They generally have a pin with a thinner section in the middle. They poke through a small hole in the valve diaphragm. When the pin moves to the other side, it allows water pressure to build up and move the diaphragm. They need a certain amount of pressure (tens of PSI) to operate reliably, and the diaphragm doesn't open very far. The pipe organ guys use a solenoid-operated pilot valve to admit air to a bellows that operates the big valve. A small double-acting solenoid valve opeating a little Bimba air cylinder that operates a 1/2" (or bigger) ball valve would sure do it. You might be able to get all these parts surplus or eBay. Jon |
#14
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CFM
wrote:
Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. --Does this activate fast enough to get a good crisp bark out of a whistle? -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Politics is a sinkhole for Hacking the Trailing Edge! : people without hobbies... www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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CFM
On Mar 13, 12:07*pm, steamer wrote:
wrote: Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. * * * * --Does this activate fast enough to get a good crisp bark out of a whistle? -- * * * * "Steamboat Ed" Haas * * * * : *Politics is a sinkhole for You want clever valves? http://www.maritime.org/fleetsub/index.htm Check the 21 inch torpedo tube manual. |
#16
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CFM
On Mar 13, 12:07*pm, steamer wrote:
wrote: Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. * * * * --Does this activate fast enough to get a good crisp bark out of a whistle? -- * * * * "Steamboat Ed" Haas * * * * : *Politics is a sinkhole for * * * * Hacking the Trailing Edge! *: *people without hobbies.... * * * * * * * * * * * * *www.nmpproducts.com * * * * * * * * * *---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- I'd imagine the key would be in using a lever arrangement so that a small amount of cylinder movement created a large amount of rotational motion at the ball valve. Or maybe there are rotational actuators out there. Dave |
#17
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CFM
On Mar 13, 12:45*pm, wrote:
On Mar 13, 12:07*pm, steamer wrote: wrote: Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. * * * * --Does this activate fast enough to get a good crisp bark out of a whistle? -- * * * * "Steamboat Ed" Haas * * * * : *Politics is a sinkhole for * * * * Hacking the Trailing Edge! *: *people without hobbies... * * * * * * * * * * * * *www.nmpproducts.com * * * * * * * * * *---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- I'd imagine the key would be in using a lever arrangement so that a small amount of cylinder movement created a large amount of rotational motion at the ball valve. Or maybe there are rotational actuators out there. Dave Oh, and as mentioned, a butterfly valve may also be a good choice, essentially 1/4 turn also but more flow for a given size. Probably less friction during opening/closing, too. Dave |
#18
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CFM
steamer wrote: wrote: Using them to control a small air cylinder that controls a fair-sized ball valve falls into that strategy nicely. --Does this activate fast enough to get a good crisp bark out of a whistle? I'd expect this relay setup to have a noticeable delay, which is why I suggested a DIY HVLP rotary valve setup directly operated by a solenoid. Since it's low pressure you don't need tight seals and the resulting friction, so the solenoid shouldn't need to be particularly large. Plenty of solenoid choices he http://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-solenoids/=zi4wi |
#19
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CFM
If you need to experiment on a tighter budget-Solenoid choice here
too- http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co....asp?dept=1178 I have ordered from these folks for years-Good stuff a tad cheaper until you figure out what you need. Mark Plenty of solenoid choices hehttp://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-solenoids/=zi4wi |
#20
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CFM
Also-found this-Looks pretty much ready to go-
http://www.meci.com/product_info.php...cts_id/4700003 Mark On Mar 13, 2:27�pm, castvee8 wrote: If you need to experiment on a tighter budget-Solenoid choice here too- http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co....asp?dept=1178 I have ordered from these folks for years-Good stuff a tad cheaper until you figure out what you need. Mark Plenty of solenoid choices hehttp://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-solenoids/=zi4wi- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#21
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CFM
--Thanks for all the info and advice gang; will ruminate a bit and
get back to ya. -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Politics is a sinkhole for Hacking the Trailing Edge! : people without hobbies... www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#22
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CFM
Richard J Kinch wrote:
You want a "dump" valve. A big passage that opens responsively with little energy of actuation. ... I think that a dump valve doesn't close until the reservoir is empty. Bob |
#23
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CFM
--Westinghouse built a fortune on this puppy, IIRC. It's how air
brakes work. -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Politics is a sinkhole for Hacking the Trailing Edge! : people without hobbies... www.nmpproducts.com ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
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