Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide about
radially perpendicular to the shaft.

It occurred to me that I could solve or at least greatly reduce this
wiggling problem by machining a combined dished washer and sleeve
(0.625" ID, 1.000" OD) in one piece, sharply reducing the ability of the
wheel to move in undesired ways. Today, I machined the first such
flanged sleeve from 6061 aluminum. The sleeve protrudes 1" from the
flange (~2.75" diameter), and the sleeve is a tight slip fit on the
shaft. The flange face is undercut, and so rests on the stone only in a
ring, just like a dished washer. The vibration is much reduced. So far
so good.

Next I'll make another flanged sleeve for the other wheel. Hmm. If it
has a 1" hole, leaving sufficient space for the sleeve.

And re-dress both wheels, as they were dressed wrong befo I would
dress them to what seemed like true, but it was really wobbling. This
would have been OK, except the wheel would then shift on the arbor,
doubling the wobble. Maddening.

I suppose it could be useful to make flanged sleeves to accept wheels
with 1.25" center holes, or larger.


I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. How are
the wheels attached to the arbors? Are the dished washers machined?
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? What manuals I've
seen are not clear. Does anybody have pictures? I've always imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide about
radially perpendicular to the shaft.

It occurred to me that I could solve or at least greatly reduce this
wiggling problem by machining a combined dished washer and sleeve
(0.625" ID, 1.000" OD) in one piece, sharply reducing the ability of the
wheel to move in undesired ways. Today, I machined the first such
flanged sleeve from 6061 aluminum. The sleeve protrudes 1" from the
flange (~2.75" diameter), and the sleeve is a tight slip fit on the
shaft. The flange face is undercut, and so rests on the stone only in a
ring, just like a dished washer. The vibration is much reduced. So far
so good.

Next I'll make another flanged sleeve for the other wheel. Hmm. If it
has a 1" hole, leaving sufficient space for the sleeve.

And re-dress both wheels, as they were dressed wrong befo I would
dress them to what seemed like true, but it was really wobbling. This
would have been OK, except the wheel would then shift on the arbor,
doubling the wobble. Maddening.

I suppose it could be useful to make flanged sleeves to accept wheels
with 1.25" center holes, or larger.


I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. How are
the wheels attached to the arbors? Are the dished washers machined?
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? What manuals I've
seen are not clear. Does anybody have pictures? I've always imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

I believe that Baldor arbors are also thicker. I looked at my Baldor,
Cat. no 7351, 1/2 HP grinder. The arbor is at least an inch thick up
to the first washer (closest to motor). The part on which the wheels
go, I think is 5/8", but the 1" shoulder provides some truing to the
wheels.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Joseph Gwinn wrote in news:joegwinn-
:

Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

I missed the first chapter.
Are the stones the ones that came with the grinder?

In article ,
Charles U Farley wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote in news:joegwinn-
:

Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

I missed the first chapter.
Are the stones the ones that came with the grinder?

One yes, one no. I bought a Norton white aluminum oxide wheel for HSS,
and it has the 1" center hole.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide about
radially perpendicular to the shaft.

It occurred to me that I could solve or at least greatly reduce this
wiggling problem by machining a combined dished washer and sleeve
(0.625" ID, 1.000" OD) in one piece, sharply reducing the ability of the
wheel to move in undesired ways. Today, I machined the first such
flanged sleeve from 6061 aluminum. The sleeve protrudes 1" from the
flange (~2.75" diameter), and the sleeve is a tight slip fit on the
shaft. The flange face is undercut, and so rests on the stone only in a
ring, just like a dished washer. The vibration is much reduced. So far
so good.

Next I'll make another flanged sleeve for the other wheel. Hmm. If it
has a 1" hole, leaving sufficient space for the sleeve.

And re-dress both wheels, as they were dressed wrong befo I would
dress them to what seemed like true, but it was really wobbling. This
would have been OK, except the wheel would then shift on the arbor,
doubling the wobble. Maddening.

I suppose it could be useful to make flanged sleeves to accept wheels
with 1.25" center holes, or larger.


I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. How are
the wheels attached to the arbors? Are the dished washers machined?
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? What manuals I've
seen are not clear. Does anybody have pictures? I've always imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

I believe that Baldor arbors are also thicker. I looked at my Baldor,
Cat. no 7351, 1/2 HP grinder. The arbor is at least an inch thick up
to the first washer (closest to motor). The part on which the wheels
go, I think is 5/8", but the 1" shoulder provides some truing to the
wheels.

Baldor arbors are something like 1/8 inch larger in diameter for a given
wheel diameter than anybody else. The Ryobi does have a shoulder, but
it's like a mm or two, which really isn't enough.. I bought a set of
hardened 5/8" ID steel washers to rest on this shoulder. The aluminum
flanged sleeve rests on this hard washer.

Given that stiffness varies as the cube of diameter (or is it the forth
power), having a 1" diameter shaft should abolish and bending modes in
the arbor.

From your description, I'm reinventing the Baldor, one step at a time.

Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide about
radially perpendicular to the shaft.

It occurred to me that I could solve or at least greatly reduce this
wiggling problem by machining a combined dished washer and sleeve
(0.625" ID, 1.000" OD) in one piece, sharply reducing the ability of the
wheel to move in undesired ways. Today, I machined the first such
flanged sleeve from 6061 aluminum. The sleeve protrudes 1" from the
flange (~2.75" diameter), and the sleeve is a tight slip fit on the
shaft. The flange face is undercut, and so rests on the stone only in a
ring, just like a dished washer. The vibration is much reduced. So far
so good.

Next I'll make another flanged sleeve for the other wheel. Hmm. If it
has a 1" hole, leaving sufficient space for the sleeve.

And re-dress both wheels, as they were dressed wrong befo I would
dress them to what seemed like true, but it was really wobbling. This
would have been OK, except the wheel would then shift on the arbor,
doubling the wobble. Maddening.

I suppose it could be useful to make flanged sleeves to accept wheels
with 1.25" center holes, or larger.


I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. How are
the wheels attached to the arbors? Are the dished washers machined?
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? What manuals I've
seen are not clear. Does anybody have pictures? I've always imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

I believe that Baldor arbors are also thicker. I looked at my Baldor,
Cat. no 7351, 1/2 HP grinder. The arbor is at least an inch thick up
to the first washer (closest to motor). The part on which the wheels
go, I think is 5/8", but the 1" shoulder provides some truing to the
wheels.

Baldor arbors are something like 1/8 inch larger in diameter for a given
wheel diameter than anybody else. The Ryobi does have a shoulder, but
it's like a mm or two, which really isn't enough.. I bought a set of
hardened 5/8" ID steel washers to rest on this shoulder. The aluminum
flanged sleeve rests on this hard washer.

Also consider that Baldor washers are extremely big and heavy.

Given that stiffness varies as the cube of diameter (or is it the forth
power), having a 1" diameter shaft should abolish and bending modes in
the arbor.

Eggzactly.

From your description, I'm reinventing the Baldor, one step at a time.

But at a comparatively enormous cost.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Baldor-7-Heavy-D...QQcmdZViewItem

Buy a Baldor and live happily thereafter. Or something else that is
heavy duty, comes with cast guards, etc.

I have a Baldor 1/2 HP grinder, Baldor 3/4 HP buffer (really a
grinder, but with buffing wheels) and a 3/4 HP heavy duty Dayton
grinder with dust collector, which is what I mainly use due to dust
collection.

I also have a small Delta cheap grinder, which I do not like but I
thought to use it with green wheels for lathe cutters. It vibrates a
lot, as they are wont to do.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Joseph Gwinn wrote in
:
Are the stones the ones that came with the grinder?

One yes, one no. I bought a Norton white aluminum oxide wheel for
HSS, and it has the 1" center hole.

Joe Gwinn

I've read that the cheap stones provided are not necessairly of uniform
density and may never balance, even when dressed. Not sure if that's
universally true or not, but you may want to test with two name brand
stones once you get your flanges sorted.

In article ,
Charles U Farley wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote in
:
Are the stones the ones that came with the grinder?

One yes, one no. I bought a Norton white aluminum oxide wheel for
HSS, and it has the 1" center hole.

Joe Gwinn

I've read that the cheap stones provided are not necessairly of uniform
density and may never balance, even when dressed. Not sure if that's
universally true or not, but you may want to test with two name brand
stones once you get your flanges sorted.

I've read this too. The simple test is to run with only one stone.

Actually, I have two Norton wheels, now that I thionk of it.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide about
radially perpendicular to the shaft.

[snip]

I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. How are
the wheels attached to the arbors? Are the dished washers machined?
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? What manuals I've
seen are not clear. Does anybody have pictures? I've always imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

I believe that Baldor arbors are also thicker. I looked at my Baldor,
Cat. no 7351, 1/2 HP grinder. The arbor is at least an inch thick up
to the first washer (closest to motor). The part on which the wheels
go, I think is 5/8", but the 1" shoulder provides some truing to the
wheels.

Baldor arbors are something like 1/8 inch larger in diameter for a given
wheel diameter than anybody else. The Ryobi does have a shoulder, but
it's like a mm or two, which really isn't enough.. I bought a set of
hardened 5/8" ID steel washers to rest on this shoulder. The aluminum
flanged sleeve rests on this hard washer.

Also consider that Baldor washers are extremely big and heavy.

Given that stiffness varies as the cube of diameter (or is it the forth
power), having a 1" diameter shaft should abolish and bending modes in
the arbor.

Eggzactly.

Now as I think of it, the arbor is bigger both in the motor (1") and
where the wheel is attached (3/4" versus 5/8" for instance).


From your description, I'm reinventing the Baldor, one step at a time.

But at a comparatively enormous cost.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Baldor-7-Heavy-D...70294757988QQi
hZ007QQcategoryZ55811QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZ ViewItem

Buy a Baldor and live happily thereafter.

What was the shipping?


Or something else that is
heavy duty, comes with cast guards, etc.

On the local craigslist a fellow has been advertising an old industrial
Delta 220-volt pedestal grinder, but apparently no takers, probably
because of the voltage.



I have a Baldor 1/2 HP grinder, Baldor 3/4 HP buffer (really a
grinder, but with buffing wheels) and a 3/4 HP heavy duty Dayton
grinder with dust collector, which is what I mainly use due to dust
collection.

What do the arbor washers look like? How are the wheels attached to the
arbor?


I also have a small Delta cheap grinder, which I do not like but I
thought to use it with green wheels for lathe cutters. It vibrates a
lot, as they are wont to do.

I always wondered if the Delta grinders were any better than the Ryobi.
Apparently not. Probably all such grinders come from the same noodle
factory.


Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder, which
vibrates badly.

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide about
radially perpendicular to the shaft.

[snip]

I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. How are
the wheels attached to the arbors? Are the dished washers machined?
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? What manuals I've
seen are not clear. Does anybody have pictures? I've always imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

I believe that Baldor arbors are also thicker. I looked at my Baldor,
Cat. no 7351, 1/2 HP grinder. The arbor is at least an inch thick up
to the first washer (closest to motor). The part on which the wheels
go, I think is 5/8", but the 1" shoulder provides some truing to the
wheels.

Baldor arbors are something like 1/8 inch larger in diameter for a given
wheel diameter than anybody else. The Ryobi does have a shoulder, but
it's like a mm or two, which really isn't enough.. I bought a set of
hardened 5/8" ID steel washers to rest on this shoulder. The aluminum
flanged sleeve rests on this hard washer.

Also consider that Baldor washers are extremely big and heavy.

Given that stiffness varies as the cube of diameter (or is it the forth
power), having a 1" diameter shaft should abolish and bending modes in
the arbor.

Eggzactly.

Now as I think of it, the arbor is bigger both in the motor (1") and
where the wheel is attached (3/4" versus 5/8" for instance).

I agree.


From your description, I'm reinventing the Baldor, one step at a time.

But at a comparatively enormous cost.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Baldor-7-Heavy-D...70294757988QQi
hZ007QQcategoryZ55811QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZ ViewItem

Buy a Baldor and live happily thereafter.

What was the shipping?

I do not know, but, I figure, you can always buy local.


Or something else that is
heavy duty, comes with cast guards, etc.

On the local craigslist a fellow has been advertising an old industrial
Delta 220-volt pedestal grinder, but apparently no takers, probably
because of the voltage.

Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?



I have a Baldor 1/2 HP grinder, Baldor 3/4 HP buffer (really a
grinder, but with buffing wheels) and a 3/4 HP heavy duty Dayton
grinder with dust collector, which is what I mainly use due to dust
collection.

What do the arbor washers look like? How are the wheels attached to the
arbor?

They are approximately 2 inches in diameter, 1/8 to 3/16 inch thick
and have a "cup" form.


I also have a small Delta cheap grinder, which I do not like but I
thought to use it with green wheels for lathe cutters. It vibrates a
lot, as they are wont to do.

I always wondered if the Delta grinders were any better than the Ryobi.
Apparently not. Probably all such grinders come from the same noodle
factory.

There are different kinds of Delta grinders. Cheap and heavy duty.

I have seen Delta grinders that are very heavy and well built.

i


Joe Gwinn

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder,
which
vibrates badly.

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide
about
radially perpendicular to the shaft.

[snip]

I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. How
are
the wheels attached to the arbors? Are the dished washers machined?
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? What manuals
I've
seen are not clear. Does anybody have pictures? I've always
imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

I believe that Baldor arbors are also thicker. I looked at my Baldor,
Cat. no 7351, 1/2 HP grinder. The arbor is at least an inch thick up
to the first washer (closest to motor). The part on which the wheels
go, I think is 5/8", but the 1" shoulder provides some truing to the
wheels.

Baldor arbors are something like 1/8 inch larger in diameter for a given
wheel diameter than anybody else. The Ryobi does have a shoulder, but
it's like a mm or two, which really isn't enough.. I bought a set of
hardened 5/8" ID steel washers to rest on this shoulder. The aluminum
flanged sleeve rests on this hard washer.

Also consider that Baldor washers are extremely big and heavy.

Given that stiffness varies as the cube of diameter (or is it the forth
power), having a 1" diameter shaft should abolish and bending modes in
the arbor.

Eggzactly.

Now as I think of it, the arbor is bigger both in the motor (1") and
where the wheel is attached (3/4" versus 5/8" for instance).

I agree.


From your description, I'm reinventing the Baldor, one step at a time.

But at a comparatively enormous cost.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Baldor-7-Heavy-D...mZ170294757988
QQi
hZ007QQcategoryZ55811QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZ ViewItem

Buy a Baldor and live happily thereafter.

What was the shipping?

I do not know, but, I figure, you can always buy local.


Or something else that is
heavy duty, comes with cast guards, etc.

On the local craigslist a fellow has been advertising an old industrial
Delta 220-volt pedestal grinder, but apparently no takers, probably
because of the voltage.

Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html


I have a Baldor 1/2 HP grinder, Baldor 3/4 HP buffer (really a
grinder, but with buffing wheels) and a 3/4 HP heavy duty Dayton
grinder with dust collector, which is what I mainly use due to dust
collection.

What do the arbor washers look like? How are the wheels attached to the
arbor?

They are approximately 2 inches in diameter, 1/8 to 3/16 inch thick
and have a "cup" form.

Machined from steel? Are they keyed to anything, or are they
free-spinning?


I also have a small Delta cheap grinder, which I do not like but I
thought to use it with green wheels for lathe cutters. It vibrates a
lot, as they are wont to do.

I always wondered if the Delta grinders were any better than the Ryobi.
Apparently not. Probably all such grinders come from the same noodle
factory.

There are different kinds of Delta grinders. Cheap and heavy duty.

I have seen Delta grinders that are very heavy and well built.

So have I. They were a respected industrial brand, 30 years ago.

I also wonder if the present day Wilton grinders are any better, or do
they come from that same noodle factory?


Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html


Would be interesting to find out the phase. I would pay $100 tops if
it was 3 phase, $120 tops if it was single phase. Every factory has at
least one bench or pedestal grinder, usually at least one good one, so
if you like going to liquidations, you could get one for less.

I can sell you a VFD that would run a 1/2 HP 3 phase motor from single
phase input for $30 plus shipping.

I have a Baldor 1/2 HP grinder, Baldor 3/4 HP buffer (really a
grinder, but with buffing wheels) and a 3/4 HP heavy duty Dayton
grinder with dust collector, which is what I mainly use due to dust
collection.

What do the arbor washers look like? How are the wheels attached to the
arbor?

They are approximately 2 inches in diameter, 1/8 to 3/16 inch thick
and have a "cup" form.

Machined from steel? Are they keyed to anything, or are they
free-spinning?

Made from steel (maybe stamped, but maybe turned), no key.


I also have a small Delta cheap grinder, which I do not like but I
thought to use it with green wheels for lathe cutters. It vibrates a
lot, as they are wont to do.

I always wondered if the Delta grinders were any better than the Ryobi.
Apparently not. Probably all such grinders come from the same noodle
factory.

There are different kinds of Delta grinders. Cheap and heavy duty.

I have seen Delta grinders that are very heavy and well built.

So have I. They were a respected industrial brand, 30 years ago.

I also wonder if the present day Wilton grinders are any better, or do
they come from that same noodle factory?

No idea about those. You can usually tell when you look at the
grinder. There is no magic to making them, there is a cheap way to
make them and an expensive way. The people's noodle factory could make
good grinders too, if their customers asked for it. All they need is
to use good motors, good bearings, thick shafts, big washers and all.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html


Would be interesting to find out the phase. I would pay $100 tops if
it was 3 phase, $120 tops if it was single phase. Every factory has at
least one bench or pedestal grinder, usually at least one good one, so
if you like going to liquidations, you could get one for less.

They didn't say how many phases, but I assumed single phase. Perhaps
not.

My reaction to the price ($200) is the they are awfully close (~1/2) to
the price for a new Baldor of similar wheel diameter and equipment.

This grinder has been reappearing on Craigslist for months. If I
offered $100, who knows? Maybe. They seem awfully proud of that old
grinder.


I can sell you a VFD that would run a 1/2 HP 3 phase motor from single
phase input for $30 plus shipping.

Thanks.


I have a Baldor 1/2 HP grinder, Baldor 3/4 HP buffer (really a
grinder, but with buffing wheels) and a 3/4 HP heavy duty Dayton
grinder with dust collector, which is what I mainly use due to dust
collection.

What do the arbor washers look like? How are the wheels attached to the
arbor?

They are approximately 2 inches in diameter, 1/8 to 3/16 inch thick
and have a "cup" form.

Machined from steel? Are they keyed to anything, or are they
free-spinning?

Made from steel (maybe stamped, but maybe turned), no key.

So, made reasonably accurately, and very stiff.

Maybe my flanged sleeves will do the trick. If the key is not the arbor
shaft diameter, which I cannot change.


I also have a small Delta cheap grinder, which I do not like but I
thought to use it with green wheels for lathe cutters. It vibrates a
lot, as they are wont to do.

I always wondered if the Delta grinders were any better than the Ryobi.
Apparently not. Probably all such grinders come from the same noodle
factory.

There are different kinds of Delta grinders. Cheap and heavy duty.

I have seen Delta grinders that are very heavy and well built.

So have I. They were a respected industrial brand, 30 years ago.

I also wonder if the present day Wilton grinders are any better, or do
they come from that same noodle factory?

No idea about those. You can usually tell when you look at the
grinder. There is no magic to making them, there is a cheap way to
make them and an expensive way. The people's noodle factory could make
good grinders too, if their customers asked for it. All they need is
to use good motors, good bearings, thick shafts, big washers and all.

Yes, capability was never the issue, it was always intent, as controlled
by the customer (that's Wilton et al, not us).

Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html


Would be interesting to find out the phase. I would pay $100 tops if
it was 3 phase, $120 tops if it was single phase. Every factory has at
least one bench or pedestal grinder, usually at least one good one, so
if you like going to liquidations, you could get one for less.

They didn't say how many phases, but I assumed single phase. Perhaps
not.

I would give 60% odds that it is 3 phase.

My reaction to the price ($200) is the they are awfully close (~1/2) to
the price for a new Baldor of similar wheel diameter and equipment.

I agree totally.

This grinder has been reappearing on Craigslist for months. If I
offered $100, who knows? Maybe. They seem awfully proud of that old
grinder.

I have seen fools like this. Very annoying. Still, I would send an
email asking the phase.

Made from steel (maybe stamped, but maybe turned), no key.

So, made reasonably accurately, and very stiff.

Very stiff.

Maybe my flanged sleeves will do the trick. If the key is not the arbor
shaft diameter, which I cannot change.

They well might help.

No idea about those. You can usually tell when you look at the
grinder. There is no magic to making them, there is a cheap way to
make them and an expensive way. The people's noodle factory could make
good grinders too, if their customers asked for it. All they need is
to use good motors, good bearings, thick shafts, big washers and all.

Yes, capability was never the issue, it was always intent, as controlled
by the customer (that's Wilton et al, not us).

Yes, it is the US retailers that order some rather abominable but
cheap machines.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
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In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html


Would be interesting to find out the phase. I would pay $100 tops if
it was 3 phase, $120 tops if it was single phase. Every factory has at
least one bench or pedestal grinder, usually at least one good one, so
if you like going to liquidations, you could get one for less.

They didn't say how many phases, but I assumed single phase. Perhaps
not.

I would give 60% odds that it is 3 phase.

It's certainly possible, and if they said 208 volts I would also guess 3
phase.


My reaction to the price ($200) is the they are awfully close (~1/2) to
the price for a new Baldor of similar wheel diameter and equipment.

I agree totally.

This grinder has been reappearing on Craigslist for months. If I
offered $100, who knows? Maybe. They seem awfully proud of that old
grinder.

I have seen fools like this. Very annoying. Still, I would send an
email asking the phase.

I have not developed enough interest so far. This has to be the story
of their lives, as that grinder has languished on the market for months.

I suppose if it were 3 phase, that would also slow things down.


Made from steel (maybe stamped, but maybe turned), no key.

So, made reasonably accurately, and very stiff.

Very stiff.

Does Baldor have any manuals that are clear on the issue of how the
wheels are held?


Maybe my flanged sleeves will do the trick. If the key is not the arbor
shaft diameter, which I cannot change.

They well might help.

We will soon enough have a datapoint. With luck, this weekend.


Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html


Would be interesting to find out the phase. I would pay $100 tops if
it was 3 phase, $120 tops if it was single phase. Every factory has at
least one bench or pedestal grinder, usually at least one good one, so
if you like going to liquidations, you could get one for less.

They didn't say how many phases, but I assumed single phase. Perhaps
not.

I would give 60% odds that it is 3 phase.

It's certainly possible, and if they said 208 volts I would also guess 3
phase.

Not really. 208-230 is a standard sopecification for many single phase
motors. But if you see 230-460, it is guaranteed to be 3 phase.

I have seen fools like this. Very annoying. Still, I would send an
email asking the phase.

I have not developed enough interest so far. This has to be the story
of their lives, as that grinder has languished on the market for months.

I suppose if it were 3 phase, that would also slow things down.

Does not hurt to ask. All sorts of odd things have happened. It is a
buyer's market now.


Made from steel (maybe stamped, but maybe turned), no key.

So, made reasonably accurately, and very stiff.

Very stiff.

Does Baldor have any manuals that are clear on the issue of how the
wheels are held?

I do not have any.


Maybe my flanged sleeves will do the trick. If the key is not the arbor
shaft diameter, which I cannot change.

They well might help.

We will soon enough have a datapoint. With luck, this weekend.


Let us know. Maybe you can bolt it to a 4x6 wood base, might help some
also.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

In article ,
Ignoramus14358 wrote:

On 2009-02-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus32631 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html


Would be interesting to find out the phase. I would pay $100 tops if
it was 3 phase, $120 tops if it was single phase. Every factory has at
least one bench or pedestal grinder, usually at least one good one, so
if you like going to liquidations, you could get one for less.

They didn't say how many phases, but I assumed single phase. Perhaps
not.

I would give 60% odds that it is 3 phase.

It's certainly possible, and if they said 208 volts I would also guess 3
phase.

Not really. 208-230 is a standard sopecification for many single phase
motors. But if you see 230-460, it is guaranteed to be 3 phase.

I have seen fools like this. Very annoying. Still, I would send an
email asking the phase.

I have not developed enough interest so far. This has to be the story
of their lives, as that grinder has languished on the market for months.

I suppose if it were 3 phase, that would also slow things down.

Does not hurt to ask. All sorts of odd things have happened. It is a
buyer's market now.

You are right, but I'm not sure I want to own this grinder, so I
hesitate.


Made from steel (maybe stamped, but maybe turned), no key.

So, made reasonably accurately, and very stiff.

Very stiff.

Does Baldor have any manuals that are clear on the issue of how the
wheels are held?

I do not have any.


Maybe my flanged sleeves will do the trick. If the key is not the arbor
shaft diameter, which I cannot change.

They well might help.

We will soon enough have a datapoint. With luck, this weekend.


Let us know. Maybe you can bolt it to a 4x6 wood base, might help some
also.

Or a big hunk of metal. But I want to eliminate the vibration at the
source.

Joe Gwinn

On Feb 2, 8:37*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,





*Ignoramus32631 wrote:
On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
*Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
*Ignoramus13011 wrote:

On 2009-02-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Another chapter in the saga of the Ryobi BGH827 8" bench grinder,
which
vibrates badly. *

The basic problem appears to be that the grinding wheels are not
reliably held perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and also can slide
about
radially perpendicular to the shaft. *

[snip]

I've never had the opportunity to take a Baldor grinder apart. *How
are
the wheels attached to the arbors? *Are the dished washers machined? *
Are they keyed to each other and/or the arbor shaft? *What manuals
I've
seen are not clear. *Does anybody have pictures? *I've always
imagined
that all that Baldor really does is accurate machining of arbors
designed so that they don't let the wheels wiggle around.

I believe that Baldor arbors are also thicker. I looked at my Baldor,
Cat. no 7351, 1/2 HP grinder. The arbor is at least an inch thick up
to the first washer (closest to motor). The part on which the wheels
go, I think is 5/8", but the 1" shoulder provides some truing to the
wheels.

Baldor arbors are something like 1/8 inch larger in diameter for a given
wheel diameter than anybody else. *The Ryobi does have a shoulder, but
it's like a mm or two, which really isn't enough.. I bought a set of
hardened 5/8" ID steel washers to rest on this shoulder. *The aluminum
flanged sleeve rests on this hard washer.

Also consider that Baldor washers are extremely big and heavy.

Given that stiffness varies as the cube of diameter (or is it the forth
power), having a 1" diameter shaft should abolish and bending modes in
the arbor.

Eggzactly.

Now as I think of it, the arbor is bigger both in the motor (1") and
where the wheel is attached (3/4" versus 5/8" for instance).

I agree.

From your description, I'm reinventing the Baldor, one step at a time.

But at a comparatively enormous cost.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Baldor-7-Heavy-D...0QQitemZ170294....
QQi
hZ007QQcategoryZ55811QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZ ViewItem

Buy a Baldor and live happily thereafter.

What was the shipping?

I do not know, but, I figure, you can always buy local.

*Or something else that is
heavy duty, comes with cast guards, etc.

On the local craigslist a fellow has been advertising an old industrial
Delta 220-volt pedestal grinder, but apparently no takers, probably
because of the voltage.

Would make a good application for a electronic motor drive, what is
the HP? Is that 3 phase?

Single phase, 1/2 HP, wheel diameter not stated. but they look small:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/1013644685.html

I have a Baldor 1/2 HP grinder, Baldor 3/4 HP buffer (really a
grinder, but with buffing wheels) and a 3/4 HP heavy duty Dayton
grinder with dust collector, which is what I mainly use due to dust
collection.

What do the arbor washers look like? *How are the wheels attached to the
arbor?

They are approximately 2 inches in diameter, 1/8 to 3/16 inch thick
and have a "cup" form.

Machined from steel? *Are they keyed to anything, or are they
free-spinning?

I also have a small Delta cheap grinder, which I do not like but I
thought to use it with green wheels for lathe cutters. It vibrates a
lot, as they are wont to do.

I always wondered if the Delta grinders were any better than the Ryobi. *
Apparently not. *Probably all such grinders come from the same noodle
factory.

There are different kinds of Delta grinders. Cheap and heavy duty.

I have seen Delta grinders that are very heavy and well built.

So have I. *They were a respected industrial brand, 30 years ago.

I also wonder if the present day Wilton grinders are any better, or do
they come from that same noodle factory?

Joe Gwinn- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The good Delta grinders have a history ...like most good tools.

Earlier there was Rockwell whose tool division became Delta which
Baldor later bought.

Those expensive Baldor grinders are the old Delta grinders.

Depending on the vintage, many of the parts fit all three brands of
grinders.

TMT

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...)

Or a big hunk of metal. But I want to eliminate the vibration at the
source.

Joe, did I miss the part where you installed sleeve spacers
press fit between the grinder axle and the wheel?

--Winston



--

I'm still waiting for another sublime, transcendent flash of adequacy.

In article
,
Too_Many_Tools wrote:

On Feb 2, 8:37*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,

[snip]

The good Delta grinders have a history ...like most good tools.

Earlier there was Rockwell whose tool division became Delta which
Baldor later bought.

Those expensive Baldor grinders are the old Delta grinders.

Aha! I did not know the history, but I did know that Delta/Rockwell's
days of glory were long past. One knows this instantly when looking at
any current Delta product.

That said, I do have a small Delta variable-speed drill press that does
work, and is made of iron and steel. But I did have to replace the
chuck with a real Jacobs chuck.

When did these changes happen?


Depending on the vintage, many of the parts fit all three brands of
grinders.

And probably many parts from the peoples' noodle factory. At least
approximately.

What I do not understand is why the noodle factory does not do a better
job of copying the real grinders. Making the arbor shoulders wide
enough to ensure that the dished washers are definitely located cannot
be that expensive. One can use stamped washers and perhaps spherical
washers, so nothing need be that precise.

One assumes that the problem is simple ignorance.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
Winston wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...)

Or a big hunk of metal. But I want to eliminate the vibration at the
source.

Joe, did I miss the part where you installed sleeve spacers
press fit between the grinder axle and the wheel?

I did try machined steel spacer sleeves, but they are a slip fit on the
5/8" arbor shaft. Didn't help because the dished washers were not
constrained to remain perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and wiggled
around.

What's new is to make a one-piece flanged sleeve, with the flange taking
the place of the inner dished washer, and a tighter slip fit as well.

Joe Gwinn

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...)

What's new is to make a one-piece flanged sleeve, with the flange taking
the place of the inner dished washer, and a tighter slip fit as well.

Sounds like a good approach! Did that reduce vibration?

--Winston


--

I'm still waiting for another sublime, transcendent flash of adequacy.

In article ,
Winston wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...)

What's new is to make a one-piece flanged sleeve, with the flange taking
the place of the inner dished washer, and a tighter slip fit as well.

Sounds like a good approach! Did that reduce vibration?

I think so, but have no measurements to back it up. And, only one of
the two wheels has been changed so far.

Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-04, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Winston wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...)

Or a big hunk of metal. But I want to eliminate the vibration at the
source.

Joe, did I miss the part where you installed sleeve spacers
press fit between the grinder axle and the wheel?

I did try machined steel spacer sleeves, but they are a slip fit on the
5/8" arbor shaft. Didn't help because the dished washers were not
constrained to remain perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and wiggled
around.

I've just gotten a DuMore series 44 toolpost grinder, and (in
the downloaded manual) they warn about rigid sleeves inside the hole in
the stone, or tight fits on the arbors. Apparently, changes in
temperature can cause the fit to be much tighter, applying enough stress
to cause the stone to shatter at speed.

Old stones had a lead centering sleeve -- soft enough so it
won't induce fracturing.

I've seen newer ones with a plastic sleeve -- same principle.
It is designed to hold the stone close to center when the flanges
are being positioned and tightened, but not to apply forces which can
cause failures.

What's new is to make a one-piece flanged sleeve, with the flange taking
the place of the inner dished washer, and a tighter slip fit as well.

They also state that the flanges on both sides of the stone
should only apply pressure near the OD, and at the same diameter from
both sides. Two different sizes of flanges create stresses which also
increase the chances of the stone flying to pieces.

In particular, clamping near the center is likely to induce
failures.

Obviously, the blotter paper is also important.

So -- be careful.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:

(...)

I've just gotten a DuMore series 44 toolpost grinder, and (in
the downloaded manual) they warn about rigid sleeves inside the hole in
the stone, or tight fits on the arbors. Apparently, changes in
temperature can cause the fit to be much tighter, applying enough stress
to cause the stone to shatter at speed.


(...)


They also state that the flanges on both sides of the stone
should only apply pressure near the OD, and at the same diameter from
both sides. Two different sizes of flanges create stresses which also
increase the chances of the stone flying to pieces.

In particular, clamping near the center is likely to induce
failures.

Obviously, the blotter paper is also important.

Thanks for the clarification and reminders, DoN.


--Winston


--

I'm still waiting for another sublime, transcendent flash of adequacy.

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-02-04, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Winston wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...)

Or a big hunk of metal. But I want to eliminate the vibration at the
source.

Joe, did I miss the part where you installed sleeve spacers
press fit between the grinder axle and the wheel?

I did try machined steel spacer sleeves, but they are a slip fit on the
5/8" arbor shaft. Didn't help because the dished washers were not
constrained to remain perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and wiggled
around.

I've just gotten a DuMore series 44 toolpost grinder, and (in
the downloaded manual) they warn about rigid sleeves inside the hole in
the stone, or tight fits on the arbors. Apparently, changes in
temperature can cause the fit to be much tighter, applying enough stress
to cause the stone to shatter at speed.

I assume that the stone heats up first and expands, pinching the sleeve.
Dumore stones are smaller and spin much faster, but the principle should
hold. I assume that given that Norton advertises that the stone can be
mounted on a 1" shaft, that 1.000" diameter is OK, and this is the
sleeve OD.

The tight slip fit (~0.001"?) is between 5/8" steel arbor shaft and
aluminum flanged sleeve. The stone-to-sleeve fit feels looser.


Old stones had a lead centering sleeve -- soft enough so it
won't induce fracturing.

I've seen newer ones with a plastic sleeve -- same principle.
It is designed to hold the stone close to center when the flanges
are being positioned and tightened, but not to apply forces which can
cause failures.

Some of the new stones have epoxy-lined arbor holes, some do not. Mine
came (from Norton) with a collection of telescoping molded plastic
sleeves intended to accommodate various arbor diameters.

I do recall the lead-lined centers, but haven't seen one in years. I
bet the advent of diamond tooling abolished the need, as they can now
drill an accurate hole in a grindstone.


What's new is to make a one-piece flanged sleeve, with the flange taking
the place of the inner dished washer, and a tighter slip fit as well.

They also state that the flanges on both sides of the stone
should only apply pressure near the OD, and at the same diameter from
both sides. Two different sizes of flanges create stresses which also
increase the chances of the stone flying to pieces.

In particular, clamping near the center is likely to induce
failures.

Yes. In a prior posting I mentioned that the flange face was relieved.
It's for just this reason. The pressure is in a ring about 3/8" wide
and 2.75" diameter, and not at the center.


Obviously, the blotter paper is also important.

Yes, and it is used.

One advantage of aluminum is that it doesn't rust and stick to the paper.

Joe Gwinn

On 2009-02-07, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-02-04, Joseph Gwinn wrote:

[ ... ]

I did try machined steel spacer sleeves, but they are a slip fit on the
5/8" arbor shaft. Didn't help because the dished washers were not
constrained to remain perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and wiggled
around.

I've just gotten a DuMore series 44 toolpost grinder, and (in
the downloaded manual) they warn about rigid sleeves inside the hole in
the stone, or tight fits on the arbors. Apparently, changes in
temperature can cause the fit to be much tighter, applying enough stress
to cause the stone to shatter at speed.

I assume that the stone heats up first and expands, pinching the sleeve.

That is what I would believe to be the case.

Dumore stones are smaller and spin much faster, but the principle should
hold.

Well ... that depends on which DuMore. The illustration showing
"ringing" a wheel looks like one around 10" to 12" diameter. And while
I was looking for the right manual to download, I saw some really large
ones which were designed to be mounted on something like a planer to
convert it into a surface grinder. :-)

I assume that given that Norton advertises that the stone can be
mounted on a 1" shaft, that 1.000" diameter is OK, and this is the
sleeve OD.

That sounds good.

The tight slip fit (~0.001"?) is between 5/8" steel arbor shaft and
aluminum flanged sleeve. The stone-to-sleeve fit feels looser.

O.K. That is where you want the fit to be good.

Old stones had a lead centering sleeve -- soft enough so it
won't induce fracturing.

I've seen newer ones with a plastic sleeve -- same principle.
It is designed to hold the stone close to center when the flanges
are being positioned and tightened, but not to apply forces which can
cause failures.

Some of the new stones have epoxy-lined arbor holes, some do not. Mine
came (from Norton) with a collection of telescoping molded plastic
sleeves intended to accommodate various arbor diameters.

O.K. Lots of choices. :-)

I do recall the lead-lined centers, but haven't seen one in years. I
bet the advent of diamond tooling abolished the need, as they can now
drill an accurate hole in a grindstone.

Hmm ... I thought that the center hole was formed before they
were fired. But I've never been around the manufacture of the wheels.

What's new is to make a one-piece flanged sleeve, with the flange taking
the place of the inner dished washer, and a tighter slip fit as well.

They also state that the flanges on both sides of the stone
should only apply pressure near the OD, and at the same diameter from
both sides. Two different sizes of flanges create stresses which also
increase the chances of the stone flying to pieces.

In particular, clamping near the center is likely to induce
failures.

Yes. In a prior posting I mentioned that the flange face was relieved.

Good. I thought so -- but this was for others reading the
thread as well. I had never even considered applying pressure at
differing diameters on the two sides before reading that manual, but it
certainly makes sense as something to be avoided.

It's for just this reason. The pressure is in a ring about 3/8" wide
and 2.75" diameter, and not at the center.

O.K. They also say (for the toolpost grinder, at least) that
the minimum diameter of the flanges should be one-third of the diameter
of a *new* wheel.


Obviously, the blotter paper is also important.

Yes, and it is used.

Good -- again mentioned for others.

One advantage of aluminum is that it doesn't rust and stick to the paper.

Yep. Though it can be smooth enough to stick anyway. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-02-07, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-02-04, Joseph Gwinn wrote:

[ ... ]

I did try machined steel spacer sleeves, but they are a slip fit on the
5/8" arbor shaft. Didn't help because the dished washers were not
constrained to remain perpendicular to the arbor shaft, and wiggled
around.

I've just gotten a DuMore series 44 toolpost grinder, and (in
the downloaded manual) they warn about rigid sleeves inside the hole in
the stone, or tight fits on the arbors. Apparently, changes in
temperature can cause the fit to be much tighter, applying enough stress
to cause the stone to shatter at speed.

I assume that the stone heats up first and expands, pinching the sleeve.

That is what I would believe to be the case.

Dumore stones are smaller and spin much faster, but the principle should
hold.

Well ... that depends on which DuMore. The illustration showing
"ringing" a wheel looks like one around 10" to 12" diameter. And while
I was looking for the right manual to download, I saw some really large
ones which were designed to be mounted on something like a planer to
convert it into a surface grinder. :-)

I don't plan to own a large enough lathe for that DuMore.


I do recall the lead-lined centers, but haven't seen one in years. I
bet the advent of diamond tooling abolished the need, as they can now
drill an accurate hole in a grindstone.

Hmm ... I thought that the center hole was formed before they
were fired. But I've never been around the manufacture of the wheels.

I don't think the firing process is all that precise. After all, the
wheel material is a form of weak, porous pottery.


What's new is to make a one-piece flanged sleeve, with the flange taking
the place of the inner dished washer, and a tighter slip fit as well.

They also state that the flanges on both sides of the stone
should only apply pressure near the OD, and at the same diameter from
both sides. Two different sizes of flanges create stresses which also
increase the chances of the stone flying to pieces.

In particular, clamping near the center is likely to induce
failures.

Yes. In a prior posting I mentioned that the flange face was relieved.

Good. I thought so -- but this was for others reading the
thread as well. I had never even considered applying pressure at
differing diameters on the two sides before reading that manual, but it
certainly makes sense as something to be avoided.

Yes. Stone is strong in compression, but weak in tension. Only same
diameter yields pure compression in the stone.


It's for just this reason. The pressure is in a ring about 3/8" wide
and 2.75" diameter, and not at the center.

O.K. They also say (for the toolpost grinder, at least) that
the minimum diameter of the flanges should be one-third of the diameter
of a *new* wheel.

Well, no bench grinder complies with this rule, not even Baldor.

But if there are desirable stones available that are 1" wide and 8"
diameter, with a 3" diameter central hole, I'd be happy to make a
flanged sleeve arbor for it.


Obviously, the blotter paper is also important.

Yes, and it is used.

Good -- again mentioned for others.

One advantage of aluminum is that it doesn't rust and stick to the paper.

Yep. Though it can be smooth enough to stick anyway. :-)

I think I will oil the blotter paper next time. Vactra #2 of course.

Joe Gwinn