On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 16:19:35 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 02:50:37 GMT, wrote:

snip
Now, after reading your post, I just have to
learn how to hand chase threads. I know it will come in
handy for tiny threads.
Thanks,
Eric

You can find some info on thread chasing in old books. "The
Complete Practical Machinist" by Joshua Rose 1895 has some
info. You can get it off the net he

http://www.archive.org/details/compl...tica00roseuoft

I would download the djvu version myself (which I have and
it is excellent!). Click on the "All files: HTTP" in the
left column for a directory listing. Otherwise you will get
the djvu stream for viewing with a browser plugin. Then save
the djvu file locally. It is ~19mb, but the detail is good.
Pages 104-107 in particular if you have/get this book (note
that the thumbnail numbers and page numbers don't match
exactly).

The following program works really well for viewing said
file:

http://windjview.sourceforge.net/

"WinDjView is a fast, compact and powerful DjVu viewer for
Windows with continuous scrolling and advanced printing
options. It uses the free DjVuLibre library to decode DjVu
documents. DjVu is a web-centric format and software
platform for distributing documents and images."

This program will blow the doors off any pdf/acrobat viewer
that I've messed around with...

Poke around in the Archive site, there are several more old
books in this genre worth getting. On the same Archive page
for Complete Practical Machinist try clicking on the
"Subject: Machine-Tools" link for starters.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
Thanks for the info Leon. As it happens, I already have a DJVU reader
installed. I needed it to download and print the manual for a TEK 465B
oscilloscope. But I'll still take a look at the one you like. Ain't
the web aewsome?
Eric

wrote:

I've been using, for a number of years, a synthetic lube gel by Syntec
for all sorts of stuff. I started out using it on plastic/metal gear
sets, like in laser printers, killed the squeaks. VCRs and CD/DVD
drives, too. It's good for a lot of things, including helical
focusing mounts. It doesn't seem to have a lot of temperature
sensitivity, either. I used to get it from Radio Shack, they
discontinued it, naturally, then True Value had it by the pound can.

I wonder if this stuff would work?
http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-...ease-ez-49.htm

Btw, doesn't work at all as a bullet casting flux. Just set there on top of the melt.
Didn't even smoke.

Wes

Thanks for your input Ned. The vacuum grease that I've worked with was a
silicone type grease by Dow.
I can't say that I know one way or the other if a silicone grease would be
ideal for various scopes or binoculars. I don't recall having discovered
silicone greases in any of the stuff I've taken apart.

I suppose a thick (medium thick) silicone grease would perform well, as long
as it didn't get on lenses, prisms or mirrors (considering silicone's
difficulty of removal from those surfaces).

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:01:55 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:



From what I could determine, a few of the characteristics for good
lubricants are stable consistency over a wide temperature range, not
out-gassing? (vapor releasing) and anti-bacterial to combat fungus.
FWIW, fungus will actually etch glass, much like squashed bugs on a
windshield do.


Dunno about anti-fungal, but vacuum grease meets the other two
criteria and I've used it on optical components where a very thick
grease seemed desirable. Permatex makes a clear synthetic grease that
has a lighter consistency than vacuum grease and is quite stable, but
I don't about its tendency to outgas. It's much less expensive than
vacuum grease.

--
Ned Simmons

I think the greases that I've encountered in optical gear is what you
referred to Stan.

The colors have ranged from a translucent amber to almost opaque brown.

The desirable effect that mentioned is important in most applications, sine
loose movements would be problematic. Some damping of movement is very
desirable.

There are some damping products avilable for moving mechanical parts on
electronic gear, such as a slow-opening cassette door instead of one that
flings open harshly.
These typically range in viscosity from thick liquids to thick gels.

Several of these products state that they are synthetic and safe for use on
all plastics.

A good general purpose light grease for small mechanisms is a GP Electronics
product named Luberex
It used to be white, but the in last tube I got, it's a translucent amber.

http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...roduct/10-1206

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


wrote in message
...
On Nov 23, 9:22 pm, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:01:55 -0500, "Wild_Bill"

wrote:

From what I could determine, a few of the characteristics for good
lubricants are stable consistency over a wide temperature range, not
out-gassing? (vapor releasing) and anti-bacterial to combat fungus.
FWIW, fungus will actually etch glass, much like squashed bugs on a
windshield do.

Dunno about anti-fungal, but vacuum grease meets the other two
criteria and I've used it on optical components where a very thick
grease seemed desirable. Permatex makes a clear synthetic grease that
has a lighter consistency than vacuum grease and is quite stable, but
I don't about its tendency to outgas. It's much less expensive than
vacuum grease.

--
Ned Simmons

Usually the vacuum grease is some sort of silicone-based stuff. Not
sure how it is in cold weather, like for binocular components, but it
should work as long as the mating pieces don't move too fast.

Most of the old camera lenses I've had apart had some kind of
yellowish stuff packed in them, resembled beeswax with something for a
softener added. Whatever it was, it had dried out/gone away, and the
stuff was back to resembling hard beeswax. You don't really want a
totally friction free movement with a camera lens, you want it to stay
put where you leave it, but these were ridiculous.

I've been using, for a number of years, a synthetic lube gel by Syntec
for all sorts of stuff. I started out using it on plastic/metal gear
sets, like in laser printers, killed the squeaks. VCRs and CD/DVD
drives, too. It's good for a lot of things, including helical
focusing mounts. It doesn't seem to have a lot of temperature
sensitivity, either. I used to get it from Radio Shack, they
discontinued it, naturally, then True Value had it by the pound can.
True Value died here, so the last point of supply is Harbor Freight.
Used to be a couple of bucks a tube, now it's up to about $4 for about
4 oz. It only takes a small smear to get the job done, not everything
has to be packed like a wheel bearing, after all. Useful for gun
triggers, too, anywhere you have a precision mechanism with relatively
high forces involved in small areas. Doesn't seem to accumulate dust,
that was one of the advertising points. The stuff is colorless,
transparent in thin layers, so a lot better than moly paste or
graphite greases for stuff that gets handled. Works well on car
electric window and lock motors, too, even sub-zero.

Stan

On Mon, 24 Nov 2008 22:51:42 GMT, wrote:

snip
Thanks for the info Leon. As it happens, I already have a DJVU reader
installed. I needed it to download and print the manual for a TEK 465B
oscilloscope. But I'll still take a look at the one you like. Ain't
the web aewsome?
Eric

I'm always finding new things (programs, books...) to diddle
with. A great waste of time, but it is pretty much the only
thing I find of interest anymore and can afford to do...

The Open source DjVuLibre (which is what WinDjView uses part
of) is pretty good too, but not quite as nimble. It has more
supporting programs, suppose to be able to build djvu files
with them. Haven't tried to do that but I might someday.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Tue, 25 Nov 2008 10:14:27 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

Thanks for your input Ned. The vacuum grease that I've worked with was a
silicone type grease by Dow.
I can't say that I know one way or the other if a silicone grease would be
ideal for various scopes or binoculars. I don't recall having discovered
silicone greases in any of the stuff I've taken apart.

I suppose a thick (medium thick) silicone grease would perform well, as long
as it didn't get on lenses, prisms or mirrors (considering silicone's
difficulty of removal from those surfaces).

Good point, I hadn't considered that the silicone would be difficult
to remove if it gets on the glass. The Dow grease I have is very
stiff. If I remember I'll see if it thins enough to be worrisome at
any reasonable temperature.

The Permatex grease I mentioned does not contain silicone, but its
consistency is closer to general purpose greases.

--
Ned Simmons

Thanks again Ned, I was looking at the Permatex products and saw one that
might be the one you mentioned;

Permatex Ultra Slick Synthetic Multi-Purpose Lubricant with PTFE

It sounds like a good product to try out for any number of purposes.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Nov 2008 10:14:27 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

Thanks for your input Ned. The vacuum grease that I've worked with was a
silicone type grease by Dow.
I can't say that I know one way or the other if a silicone grease would be
ideal for various scopes or binoculars. I don't recall having discovered
silicone greases in any of the stuff I've taken apart.

I suppose a thick (medium thick) silicone grease would perform well, as
long
as it didn't get on lenses, prisms or mirrors (considering silicone's
difficulty of removal from those surfaces).

Good point, I hadn't considered that the silicone would be difficult
to remove if it gets on the glass. The Dow grease I have is very
stiff. If I remember I'll see if it thins enough to be worrisome at
any reasonable temperature.

The Permatex grease I mentioned does not contain silicone, but its
consistency is closer to general purpose greases.

--
Ned Simmons

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 01:19:33 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:
Upgraded to high-temp bearing grease (lithium soap, etc) from the auto
parts store if things might get hot.

high-temp bearing grease usually has a bentone clay soap base,
lithium is not too good for high temps, my ex-employer only used
bentone.

high-temp bearing grease usually has a bentone clay soap base,
lithium is not too good for high temps, my ex-employer only used
bentone.

I think you mean bentonite. Lithium soaps are used specifically for high-
temp performance. Bentonite I expect is added to greases for its
rheological properties for leaky gearboxes. For optical assemblies, I
don't think you want powdered clay in your grease.

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 19:42:31 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:
I think you mean bentonite. Lithium soaps are used specifically for high-
temp performance. Bentonite I expect is added to greases for its
rheological properties for leaky gearboxes. For optical assemblies, I
don't think you want powdered clay in your grease.
Correct bentonite I have been retired since '95 and have
forgotten most of the technical terms. Only ever made one grade of
grease, a special zinc based anti-wear OOO grade for mining machinery