Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Aug 13, 7:50*am, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. *The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about). *

The crude way is to enlarge it in steps with a flycutter. You need a
reference surface on the flycutter body to measure bit extension.

On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

Would it be possible to set it up, on a rotary table, then cut the
thing out with a milling cutter, raising the table as you go to keep
the bit engaged in the work?

OR - mark out the hole with a piece of pipe cut to the right angle,
hack it out with a jigsaw, get to final size with a half round *******
file......(silicon is wonderful stuff, covers a multitude of sins....)

Andrew VK3BFA.

On Aug 13, 9:18 pm, wrote:
On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:







Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

Would it be possible to set it up, on a rotary table, then cut the
thing out with a milling cutter, raising the table as you go to keep
the bit engaged in the work?

OR - mark out the hole with a piece of pipe cut to the right angle,
hack it out with a jigsaw, get to final size with a half round *******
file......(silicon is wonderful stuff, covers a multitude of sins....)

Andrew VK3BFA.

Mm, yes - actually, it will be an ellipse, not a pure circle, so idea
#1 wouldn't work....(thought about it)

Bugger of a job ya got there, Nick - thankfully its plastic, not
steel. BTW - you can get couplers in 90, 45, and possibly other
degrees - you been through the bin at the plumbing supply house? -
might be able to take a segment/slice out of a pre-made bend, glue it
up with that blue stuff they use whose name I cant remember......and
is it that critical it be 40 degrees....

Andrew VK3BFA.

On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:



Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5"
hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant
depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see
problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve
making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a
drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little
about).

Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw.

Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle
segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the
segment that's been freed.

It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot
LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool.

You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity,
since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there --
you'll just be guiding on the kerf.

(thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.)

LLoyd

On Aug 13, 2:40*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:

Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5"
hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant
depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see
problems. *The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve
making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a
drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little
about).

Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw.

Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle
segment it cut through, and peck again. *Each time, just remove the
segment that's been freed.

It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot
LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool.

You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity,
since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there --
you'll just be guiding on the kerf.

(thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.)

LLoyd

Clamp a piece of wood as a backer for the center drill to follow.
Orient the grain at 90 deg to the plastic so you can split off the
wood that's in the way after each cut.
Karl

I'm concerned about the rigidity of your drillpress, but that's just
experience talking =)

If you blank a round hole first, normal to the sheet's surface, smaller than
your finish size, you might be able to sneak up on it with a flycutter, in
increments.
Flycutters are easy to make, or cheap to buy, and amazingly useful.

If the drillpress gives you fits, you can do the same thing with the lathe.




wrote in message
...
On Aug 13, 2:40 am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:

Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5"
hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant
depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see
problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve
making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a
drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little
about).

Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw.

Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle
segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the
segment that's been freed.

It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot
LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool.

You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity,
since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there --
you'll just be guiding on the kerf.

(thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.)

LLoyd

Clamp a piece of wood as a backer for the center drill to follow.
Orient the grain at 90 deg to the plastic so you can split off the
wood that's in the way after each cut.
Karl

In article ,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:



Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5"
hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant
depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see
problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve
making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a
drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little
about).

Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw.

Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle
segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the
segment that's been freed.

Removing the segment is the problem here. My mill is too small to help
and I see no feasible way to saw.

It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot
LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool.

You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity,
since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there --
you'll just be guiding on the kerf.

(thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.)

Good thinking, there is a $40 3,5" Forstner bit, but it's on back order
and is only 6" long so I would need an extension. Might be doable.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

nick hull wrote:

In article ,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:



Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5"
hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant
depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see
problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve
making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a
drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little
about).

Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw.

Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle
segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the
segment that's been freed.

Removing the segment is the problem here. My mill is too small to help
and I see no feasible way to saw.

Drill a small pilot hole in the center and then use a jig saw to remove
the segments as you proceed.

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 06:50:58 -0500, nick hull wrote:

Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Perhaps you could cut off a 3.5" coupler at the desired angle, then
encapsulate the base of it in a 3/4" thick block of plastic casting
resin like at http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm . Alternately,
make an oval opening (ie, cut two 3.5" holes 2.84" OC straight through
the HDPE and mill the long sides straight) and use casting resin (or
silicone as someone else suggested) to fill the gap.

-jiw

My suggestion.

First make a sandwich. triangular block of wood. plastic. then a second
triangular block. Screw it all together outside of where you need to drill.
The idea is to end up with a rectangle block with your plastic going though
it at your 40 degree angle.

Clamp in your drill press. then use an expandable wood drill bit set to 3.5
inch. Drill hole. remove wood.

Karl

In article ,
"Karl Townsend" wrote:

My suggestion.

First make a sandwich. triangular block of wood. plastic. then a second
triangular block. Screw it all together outside of where you need to drill.
The idea is to end up with a rectangle block with your plastic going though
it at your 40 degree angle.

Clamp in your drill press. then use an expandable wood drill bit set to 3.5
inch. Drill hole. remove wood.

I have had trouble using an expandable wood drill bit in my drill press
because it only has one cutting edge and the side forces make my drill
chuck fall out of the JT33 taper socket ;(

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"nick hull" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Karl Townsend" wrote:

My suggestion.

First make a sandwich. triangular block of wood. plastic. then a second
triangular block. Screw it all together outside of where you need to
drill.
The idea is to end up with a rectangle block with your plastic going
though
it at your 40 degree angle.

Clamp in your drill press. then use an expandable wood drill bit set to
3.5
inch. Drill hole. remove wood.

I have had trouble using an expandable wood drill bit in my drill press
because it only has one cutting edge and the side forces make my drill
chuck fall out of the JT33 taper socket ;(

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Except that there really isn't a lot of side force with an expanding bit
because there is the center feed screw.

This is not to say that you might not have some other problems besides the
JT33, but that would be the first thing I did, namely fix that. You
shouldn't have any trouble with an expanding bit in a drill press.

Mike

Drill a strait hole 3.5" dia. Use a 3.5" round sanding drum and sand
it the rest of the way.
Make a sanding drum out of wood with a slot for sandpaper.

nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

Q&D - Take a chunk of plain steel pipe of the same OD. Heat it RED hot
and plunge it through the plastic at the required angle. You end up with
a hole with a slight flange on either side. OR you could drill the hole
at 90 degrees with a hole saw, then use a heated pipe to form the
plastic to the correct shape.

--
Steve W.

In article , "Steve W."
wrote:

nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

Q&D - Take a chunk of plain steel pipe of the same OD. Heat it RED hot
and plunge it through the plastic at the required angle. You end up with
a hole with a slight flange on either side. OR you could drill the hole
at 90 degrees with a hole saw, then use a heated pipe to form the
plastic to the correct shape.

That's an angle I hadn't thought about

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

How about a toothed forstner (sp)[ for wood working ] bit.
Much like a hole saw but you can
find a quality 3.5" at the electrical supply house and an arbor. Used to
cut holes in buildings for metal conduit pipe.....

Look into that before you make something - tooth design is complex.

Also - make test cuts in scraps or wood... verify the diameter post cut.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/


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nick hull wrote:
I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE.

Another way. Get a carbide grit hacksaw blade. Mark out entrance and
exit holes on workpiece. Drill small diameter hole, pass blade through
hole. Saw out approximate hole. Clean up with boring bar held between
lathe centers.

Kevin Gallimore


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In article , axolotl wrote:

nick hull wrote:
I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE.

Another way. Get a carbide grit hacksaw blade. Mark out entrance and
exit holes on workpiece. Drill small diameter hole, pass blade through
hole. Saw out approximate hole. Clean up with boring bar held between
lathe centers.

Interesting. I would expect carbide grit would quickly clog with
plastic, but maybe there is a coarser tooth blade available. It would
have to be a long blade, at least 12", and would need a very wide
hacksaw frame for clearance and would have to cut omnidirectional unless
the frame allowed omnidirectional settings of the blade.

My hacksaws only allow 90 deg blade settings. My coping saw allows
onmidirectional but the blade is too short. Maybe I could fabricate a
special hacksaw using a Looong piece of bandsaw blade with a very wide
frame to allow clearance - anyone have any experience in making special
hacksaw frames?

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

It would probably be easier to fabricate a coping saw frame that would fit
inside the hole, instead of a large frame that would fit around the
workpiece.
When using fragile blades like coping saw blades, it always works much
easier for me to set the blade so it cuts on the pull stroke.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"nick hull" wrote in message
.. .
In article , axolotl wrote:

nick hull wrote:
I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE.
snipping

My hacksaws only allow 90 deg blade settings. My coping saw allows
onmidirectional but the blade is too short. Maybe I could fabricate a
special hacksaw using a Looong piece of bandsaw blade with a very wide
frame to allow clearance - anyone have any experience in making special
hacksaw frames?

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

nick hull wrote:

Interesting. I would expect carbide grit would quickly clog with
plastic, but maybe there is a coarser tooth blade available. It would
have to be a long blade, at least 12", and would need a very wide
hacksaw frame for clearance and would have to cut omnidirectional unless
the frame allowed omnidirectional settings of the blade.

The carbide grit blade under discussion will cut in any direction. It is
a wire with fairly coarse carbide chunks fused to it.

http://www.antonline.com/p_15-410-GP_402354.htm


Kevin Gallimore


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On Aug 13, 4:50*am, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. *The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about). *

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. *
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say
1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw
with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the
job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle
and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or
far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's
surface.

This is getting ridiculous - hes not making a part for the space
shuttle. This is the sort of job that could be done, rough, but "good
for purpose" as they taught me at school, in 10 minutes with a jigsaw,
a drill, and a half round woodrasp. You wanna be fancy, clean it up
with your pocket knife when finished....

Honestly, you Yanks make life SO complicated for a simple job.....

Andrew VK3BFA.

(used to do similar things 20 years ago las a Lineman laying PVC
conduit for big telephone cables - tolerances were measured in INCHES,
so a lot of "Select On Test" modifying was done......

Yes, you COULD stuff around for weeks and do a precision engineering
job, accurate to 5 thou, but is it necessary for a downpipe?)

In article
,
Carl M wrote:

On Aug 13, 4:50*am, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. *The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about). *

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. *
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say
1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw
with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the
job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle
and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or
far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's
surface.

I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material
to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Aug 14, 10:08 pm, nick hull wrote:
In article
,
Carl M wrote:



On Aug 13, 4:50 am, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say
1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw
with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the
job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle
and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or
far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's
surface.

I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material
to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

This has gotta be a troll - the entire RCM community is getting their
knickers in a twist working out how to fit a drainpipe - do I get a
prize for being the first to pick it?

Andrew VK3BFA.

In article
,
wrote:

I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material
to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled.

This has gotta be a troll - the entire RCM community is getting their
knickers in a twist working out how to fit a drainpipe - do I get a
prize for being the first to pick it?

It's not just fitting a drainpipe, it's fitting the entrance to my
drinking water cistern and we are currently in the worst drouth I've
seen in 30 years ;(

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

So you put a rubber boot over it like the pros do. Make a hole -
and boot the top - like on the roof.

If it is fixed - then bond it in with a safe caulking.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


nick hull wrote:
In article
,
wrote:

I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material
to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled.

This has gotta be a troll - the entire RCM community is getting their
knickers in a twist working out how to fit a drainpipe - do I get a
prize for being the first to pick it?

It's not just fitting a drainpipe, it's fitting the entrance to my
drinking water cistern and we are currently in the worst drouth I've
seen in 30 years ;(

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
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nick hull fired this volley in news:nhull-
:
It's not just fitting a drainpipe, it's fitting the entrance to my
drinking water cistern and we are currently in the worst drouth I've
seen in 30 years ;(


Nick, I have one VERY silly question: If this is schedule 40 3" pipe, what
the hell would keep you from using standard plumbing fittings to change the
entry angle to vertical?

Then you could just bore a straight hole...

LLoyd

Nothing was said about a drain pipe - but we suggested hole saws.
I don't thing the poster knows what is going on or is unwilling
to say more or less.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


wrote:
On Aug 14, 10:08 pm, nick hull wrote:
In article
,
Carl M wrote:



On Aug 13, 4:50 am, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).
The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.
Ideas welcome
Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say
1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw
with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the
job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle
and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or
far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's
surface.
I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material
to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

This has gotta be a troll - the entire RCM community is getting their
knickers in a twist working out how to fit a drainpipe - do I get a
prize for being the first to pick it?

Andrew VK3BFA.


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On Aug 15, 10:50 am, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:
Nothing was said about a drain pipe - but we suggested hole saws.
I don't thing the poster knows what is going on or is unwilling
to say more or less.

Martin








Its a drain pipe - and I quote

accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well

it lives in the rack in the store labelled "drain pipe"

So, why has it become so bloody complicated - Nick, post me the piece
of plastic, I will do it for ya and post it back....the rest of the
Brains Trust can get on with designing the Better Mousetrap.

Andrew VK3BFA

Whatever you do, please tell us how you did it

The angle of the pipe requires the hole to be an ellipse. Draw out the
ellipse from an educated guess or cut an end off of some other material at
the correct angle (even flashing metal temporarily rolled to form a tube of
the same OD) then trace the ellipse onto the workpiece.
Modify the ellipse tracing to leave extra material on the minor angle side
like a narrow D shape |).

Use a saber saw with a coarse tooth set and some cutting lube, even if it's
just candle wax to cut out the ellipse.
Any number of other hand/power tools should enable you to trim/cope away the
angled sides of the thickness of the workpiece.

Finish the fit with caulking, glue or sealer.

A rough hand rasp such as the ones sold in hardware stores (one side flat,
the other side rounded) with the prickly teeth, work well on soft metals and
plastics. Again, using them on the pull stroke often works better (I have
some of these rasps that I've intentionally broken, then epoxied them to
lengths of flat aluminum bars as handles).

There are many types of power rasps that will fit in drill chucks or air
grinder collets that will work very fast in plastics.
Most saber saws will cut bevels, but the pass-thru angle in the ellipse
changes from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock.

The hole saw and fly cutter techniques might have so much side load that it
would be an invitation for disaster in the form of damaged materaial or
cutting tools, or leaking skin/bloodletting. That's a considerable amount of
side load.

I've used hole saws at various angles in wood and other materials (up to 3")
by drilling a hole at the expected angle, then fitting the hole saw arbor to
a length of 1/4" rod (hardware store zinc coated stuff), by filing/grinding
a notch in the rod for the arbor set screw (allowing a long length of rod to
extend past the cutting teeth of the hole saw).
Filing/grinding three flats for the chuck jaws prevents slipping (but
sometimes a limited amount of slipping is better).

This method works well using even a hahdheld drill motor if used cautiously.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"nick hull" wrote in message
.. .
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about
6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only
solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out
of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like
line boring, which I know little about).

The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat
bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe
containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well.
small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop
all sunlight.

Ideas welcome

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/