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Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 7:50*am, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. *The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). * The crude way is to enlarge it in steps with a flycutter. You need a reference surface on the flycutter body to measure bit extension. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ Would it be possible to set it up, on a rotary table, then cut the thing out with a milling cutter, raising the table as you go to keep the bit engaged in the work? OR - mark out the hole with a piece of pipe cut to the right angle, hack it out with a jigsaw, get to final size with a half round ******* file......(silicon is wonderful stuff, covers a multitude of sins....) Andrew VK3BFA. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 9:18 pm, wrote:
On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ Would it be possible to set it up, on a rotary table, then cut the thing out with a milling cutter, raising the table as you go to keep the bit engaged in the work? OR - mark out the hole with a piece of pipe cut to the right angle, hack it out with a jigsaw, get to final size with a half round ******* file......(silicon is wonderful stuff, covers a multitude of sins....) Andrew VK3BFA. Mm, yes - actually, it will be an ellipse, not a pure circle, so idea #1 wouldn't work....(thought about it) Bugger of a job ya got there, Nick - thankfully its plastic, not steel. BTW - you can get couplers in 90, 45, and possibly other degrees - you been through the bin at the plumbing supply house? - might be able to take a segment/slice out of a pre-made bend, glue it up with that blue stuff they use whose name I cant remember......and is it that critical it be 40 degrees.... Andrew VK3BFA. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at
40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw. Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the segment that's been freed. It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool. You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity, since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there -- you'll just be guiding on the kerf. (thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.) LLoyd |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 2:40*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. *The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw. Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle segment it cut through, and peck again. *Each time, just remove the segment that's been freed. It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool. You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity, since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there -- you'll just be guiding on the kerf. (thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.) LLoyd Clamp a piece of wood as a backer for the center drill to follow. Orient the grain at 90 deg to the plastic so you can split off the wood that's in the way after each cut. Karl |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
I'm concerned about the rigidity of your drillpress, but that's just
experience talking =) If you blank a round hole first, normal to the sheet's surface, smaller than your finish size, you might be able to sneak up on it with a flycutter, in increments. Flycutters are easy to make, or cheap to buy, and amazingly useful. If the drillpress gives you fits, you can do the same thing with the lathe. wrote in message ... On Aug 13, 2:40 am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw. Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the segment that's been freed. It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool. You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity, since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there -- you'll just be guiding on the kerf. (thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.) LLoyd Clamp a piece of wood as a backer for the center drill to follow. Orient the grain at 90 deg to the plastic so you can split off the wood that's in the way after each cut. Karl |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
"nick hull" wrote in message .. . In article 8_Aok.904$7N1.347@trnddc06, "Jon" wrote: I'm concerned about the rigidity of your drillpress, but that's just experience talking =) If you blank a round hole first, normal to the sheet's surface, smaller than your finish size, you might be able to sneak up on it with a flycutter, in increments. Flycutters are easy to make, or cheap to buy, and amazingly useful. If the drillpress gives you fits, you can do the same thing with the lathe. My milling machine is tiny and cannot help. I don't dare use a flycutter on the drill press because the chuck will come off the JT33 arbor. Lathe is possible, but there would be lots of overhang on the fly cutter and the problem of attaching the work to the tool rest; I don't think I have enough clearance. Maybe this is a good time to mooch from someone who has a knee mill =) |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article 8_Aok.904$7N1.347@trnddc06,
"Jon" wrote: I'm concerned about the rigidity of your drillpress, but that's just experience talking =) If you blank a round hole first, normal to the sheet's surface, smaller than your finish size, you might be able to sneak up on it with a flycutter, in increments. Flycutters are easy to make, or cheap to buy, and amazingly useful. If the drillpress gives you fits, you can do the same thing with the lathe. My milling machine is tiny and cannot help. I don't dare use a flycutter on the drill press because the chuck will come off the JT33 arbor. Lathe is possible, but there would be lots of overhang on the fly cutter and the problem of attaching the work to the tool rest; I don't think I have enough clearance. wrote in message ... On Aug 13, 2:40 am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw. Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the segment that's been freed. It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool. You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity, since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there -- you'll just be guiding on the kerf. (thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.) LLoyd Clamp a piece of wood as a backer for the center drill to follow. Orient the grain at 90 deg to the plastic so you can split off the wood that's in the way after each cut. Karl Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 06:50:58 -0500, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Perhaps you could cut off a 3.5" coupler at the desired angle, then encapsulate the base of it in a 3/4" thick block of plastic casting resin like at http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm . Alternately, make an oval opening (ie, cut two 3.5" holes 2.84" OC straight through the HDPE and mill the long sides straight) and use casting resin (or silicone as someone else suggested) to fill the gap. -jiw |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article ,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw. Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the segment that's been freed. Removing the segment is the problem here. My mill is too small to help and I see no feasible way to saw. It'll certainly be more trouble than a single-plunge cut, but also a lot LESS trouble than making a one-time specialty tool. You should expect the last cut or two to be impacted by machine rigidity, since the center guide hole will be gone by the time you get there -- you'll just be guiding on the kerf. (thinking -- You _could_ find a 3.5" Forstner bit; they exist.) Good thinking, there is a $40 3,5" Forstner bit, but it's on back order and is only 6" long so I would need an extension. Might be doable. Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 10:20*am, nick hull wrote:
My milling machine is tiny and cannot help. *I don't dare use a flycutter on the drill press because the chuck will come off the JT33 arbor. *Lathe is possible, but there would be lots of overhang on the fly cutter and the problem of attaching the work to the tool rest; I don't think I have enough clearance. How about a rubber cone flashing for a roof vent pipe? |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
nick hull wrote: In article , "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw. Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the segment that's been freed. Removing the segment is the problem here. My mill is too small to help and I see no feasible way to saw. Drill a small pilot hole in the center and then use a jig saw to remove the segments as you proceed. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
My suggestion.
First make a sandwich. triangular block of wood. plastic. then a second triangular block. Screw it all together outside of where you need to drill. The idea is to end up with a rectangle block with your plastic going though it at your 40 degree angle. Clamp in your drill press. then use an expandable wood drill bit set to 3.5 inch. Drill hole. remove wood. Karl |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
Drill a strait hole 3.5" dia. Use a 3.5" round sanding drum and sand
it the rest of the way. Make a sanding drum out of wood with a slot for sandpaper. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article . com,
"Pete C." wrote: nick hull wrote: In article , "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: On Aug 13, 9:50 pm, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). Nick, peck drill the hole with a standard hole saw. Go as deep as the saw will cut, then manually saw or mill out the circle segment it cut through, and peck again. Each time, just remove the segment that's been freed. Removing the segment is the problem here. My mill is too small to help and I see no feasible way to saw. Drill a small pilot hole in the center and then use a jig saw to remove the segments as you proceed. The slant depth is about 1.25", so a hole saw will barely break thru the back before it bottoms out. Maybe if I had a circular saw with a 3.5" blade? Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article ,
"Karl Townsend" wrote: My suggestion. First make a sandwich. triangular block of wood. plastic. then a second triangular block. Screw it all together outside of where you need to drill. The idea is to end up with a rectangle block with your plastic going though it at your 40 degree angle. Clamp in your drill press. then use an expandable wood drill bit set to 3.5 inch. Drill hole. remove wood. I have had trouble using an expandable wood drill bit in my drill press because it only has one cutting edge and the side forces make my drill chuck fall out of the JT33 taper socket ;( Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ Q&D - Take a chunk of plain steel pipe of the same OD. Heat it RED hot and plunge it through the plastic at the required angle. You end up with a hole with a slight flange on either side. OR you could drill the hole at 90 degrees with a hole saw, then use a heated pipe to form the plastic to the correct shape. -- Steve W. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
"nick hull" wrote in message .. . In article , "Karl Townsend" wrote: My suggestion. First make a sandwich. triangular block of wood. plastic. then a second triangular block. Screw it all together outside of where you need to drill. The idea is to end up with a rectangle block with your plastic going though it at your 40 degree angle. Clamp in your drill press. then use an expandable wood drill bit set to 3.5 inch. Drill hole. remove wood. I have had trouble using an expandable wood drill bit in my drill press because it only has one cutting edge and the side forces make my drill chuck fall out of the JT33 taper socket ;( Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** Except that there really isn't a lot of side force with an expanding bit because there is the center feed screw. This is not to say that you might not have some other problems besides the JT33, but that would be the first thing I did, namely fix that. You shouldn't have any trouble with an expanding bit in a drill press. Mike |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
How about a toothed forstner (sp)[ for wood working ] bit.
Much like a hole saw but you can find a quality 3.5" at the electrical supply house and an arbor. Used to cut holes in buildings for metal conduit pipe..... Look into that before you make something - tooth design is complex. Also - make test cuts in scraps or wood... verify the diameter post cut. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
nick hull wrote:
I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Another way. Get a carbide grit hacksaw blade. Mark out entrance and exit holes on workpiece. Drill small diameter hole, pass blade through hole. Saw out approximate hole. Clean up with boring bar held between lathe centers. Kevin Gallimore ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article , "Steve W."
wrote: nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ Q&D - Take a chunk of plain steel pipe of the same OD. Heat it RED hot and plunge it through the plastic at the required angle. You end up with a hole with a slight flange on either side. OR you could drill the hole at 90 degrees with a hole saw, then use a heated pipe to form the plastic to the correct shape. That's an angle I hadn't thought about ;) Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article
, Jim Wilkins wrote: On Aug 13, 10:20*am, nick hull wrote: My milling machine is tiny and cannot help. *I don't dare use a flycutter on the drill press because the chuck will come off the JT33 arbor. *Lathe is possible, but there would be lots of overhang on the fly cutter and the problem of attaching the work to the tool rest; I don't think I have enough clearance. How about a rubber cone flashing for a roof vent pipe? I'll have to check to see if the flashing can do 40 deg, another approach I hadn't considered. RCMers can come up with some original ideas ;) Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 4:50*am, nick hull wrote:
Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. *The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). * The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. * small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say 1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's surface. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
This is getting ridiculous - hes not making a part for the space
shuttle. This is the sort of job that could be done, rough, but "good for purpose" as they taught me at school, in 10 minutes with a jigsaw, a drill, and a half round woodrasp. You wanna be fancy, clean it up with your pocket knife when finished.... Honestly, you Yanks make life SO complicated for a simple job..... Andrew VK3BFA. (used to do similar things 20 years ago las a Lineman laying PVC conduit for big telephone cables - tolerances were measured in INCHES, so a lot of "Select On Test" modifying was done...... Yes, you COULD stuff around for weeks and do a precision engineering job, accurate to 5 thou, but is it necessary for a downpipe?) |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 13, 11:00*pm, nick hull wrote:
*Jim Wilkins wrote: How about a rubber cone flashing for a roof vent pipe? I'll have to check to see if the flashing can do 40 deg, another approach I hadn't considered. *RCMers can come up with some original ideas ;) If you can get a hose clamp on the rubber you might be able to pull the clamp nearer the flashing plate so it will pivot further. Vent pipe flashings work well on galvanized iron pipe supports for solar panels etc. Jim Wilkins |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article , axolotl wrote:
nick hull wrote: I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Another way. Get a carbide grit hacksaw blade. Mark out entrance and exit holes on workpiece. Drill small diameter hole, pass blade through hole. Saw out approximate hole. Clean up with boring bar held between lathe centers. Interesting. I would expect carbide grit would quickly clog with plastic, but maybe there is a coarser tooth blade available. It would have to be a long blade, at least 12", and would need a very wide hacksaw frame for clearance and would have to cut omnidirectional unless the frame allowed omnidirectional settings of the blade. My hacksaws only allow 90 deg blade settings. My coping saw allows onmidirectional but the blade is too short. Maybe I could fabricate a special hacksaw using a Looong piece of bandsaw blade with a very wide frame to allow clearance - anyone have any experience in making special hacksaw frames? Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
In article
, Carl M wrote: On Aug 13, 4:50*am, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. *I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. *Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. *The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). * The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. * small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say 1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's surface. I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled. Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 14, 10:08 pm, nick hull wrote:
In article , Carl M wrote: On Aug 13, 4:50 am, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say 1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's surface. I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled. Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ This has gotta be a troll - the entire RCM community is getting their knickers in a twist working out how to fit a drainpipe - do I get a prize for being the first to pick it? Andrew VK3BFA. |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
Whatever you do, please tell us how you did it
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Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
Nothing was said about a drain pipe - but we suggested hole saws.
I don't thing the poster knows what is going on or is unwilling to say more or less. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ wrote: On Aug 14, 10:08 pm, nick hull wrote: In article , Carl M wrote: On Aug 13, 4:50 am, nick hull wrote: Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ The thing that first came to my mind was to drill a pilot hole, say 1/4", of the right angle, then replace the drill bit in your hole saw with a 1/4" rod long enough to allow the larger hole saw to do the job, but since your depth of cut is less than the diameter and angle and all that, you will need to put some material either on the near or far side to guide the hole saw once the pilot clears the material's surface. I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled. Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ This has gotta be a troll - the entire RCM community is getting their knickers in a twist working out how to fit a drainpipe - do I get a prize for being the first to pick it? Andrew VK3BFA. ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
So you put a rubber boot over it like the pros do. Make a hole -
and boot the top - like on the roof. If it is fixed - then bond it in with a safe caulking. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ nick hull wrote: In article , wrote: I was thinking along those lines, but the problem of removing material to keep the hole saw from bottoming has me puzzled. This has gotta be a troll - the entire RCM community is getting their knickers in a twist working out how to fit a drainpipe - do I get a prize for being the first to pick it? It's not just fitting a drainpipe, it's fitting the entrance to my drinking water cistern and we are currently in the worst drouth I've seen in 30 years ;( Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 15, 10:50 am, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote: Nothing was said about a drain pipe - but we suggested hole saws. I don't thing the poster knows what is going on or is unwilling to say more or less. Martin Its a drain pipe - and I quote accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well it lives in the rack in the store labelled "drain pipe" So, why has it become so bloody complicated - Nick, post me the piece of plastic, I will do it for ya and post it back....the rest of the Brains Trust can get on with designing the Better Mousetrap. Andrew VK3BFA |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
It would probably be easier to fabricate a coping saw frame that would fit
inside the hole, instead of a large frame that would fit around the workpiece. When using fragile blades like coping saw blades, it always works much easier for me to set the blade so it cuts on the pull stroke. WB .......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "nick hull" wrote in message .. . In article , axolotl wrote: nick hull wrote: I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. snipping My hacksaws only allow 90 deg blade settings. My coping saw allows onmidirectional but the blade is too short. Maybe I could fabricate a special hacksaw using a Looong piece of bandsaw blade with a very wide frame to allow clearance - anyone have any experience in making special hacksaw frames? Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
SO read my previous posts.
Drill the hole and put a boot or caulk it. YOU and none of us will ever make a perfect sliding micron fit. As soon as the temperature changes holes get larger when hot and smaller when cold. Pipes get shorter when cold and get fatter..... You can't make a perfect fit. It will never , never work. Also, if it is dumping into a box - have it go into the box or another pipe - and remember water goes down hill - just cover any slots/cracks. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ wrote: On Aug 15, 10:50 am, "Martin H. Eastburn" wrote: Nothing was said about a drain pipe - but we suggested hole saws. I don't thing the poster knows what is going on or is unwilling to say more or less. Martin Its a drain pipe - and I quote accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well it lives in the rack in the store labelled "drain pipe" So, why has it become so bloody complicated - Nick, post me the piece of plastic, I will do it for ya and post it back....the rest of the Brains Trust can get on with designing the Better Mousetrap. Andrew VK3BFA ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
The angle of the pipe requires the hole to be an ellipse. Draw out the
ellipse from an educated guess or cut an end off of some other material at the correct angle (even flashing metal temporarily rolled to form a tube of the same OD) then trace the ellipse onto the workpiece. Modify the ellipse tracing to leave extra material on the minor angle side like a narrow D shape |). Use a saber saw with a coarse tooth set and some cutting lube, even if it's just candle wax to cut out the ellipse. Any number of other hand/power tools should enable you to trim/cope away the angled sides of the thickness of the workpiece. Finish the fit with caulking, glue or sealer. A rough hand rasp such as the ones sold in hardware stores (one side flat, the other side rounded) with the prickly teeth, work well on soft metals and plastics. Again, using them on the pull stroke often works better (I have some of these rasps that I've intentionally broken, then epoxied them to lengths of flat aluminum bars as handles). There are many types of power rasps that will fit in drill chucks or air grinder collets that will work very fast in plastics. Most saber saws will cut bevels, but the pass-thru angle in the ellipse changes from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock. The hole saw and fly cutter techniques might have so much side load that it would be an invitation for disaster in the form of damaged materaial or cutting tools, or leaking skin/bloodletting. That's a considerable amount of side load. I've used hole saws at various angles in wood and other materials (up to 3") by drilling a hole at the expected angle, then fitting the hole saw arbor to a length of 1/4" rod (hardware store zinc coated stuff), by filing/grinding a notch in the rod for the arbor set screw (allowing a long length of rod to extend past the cutting teeth of the hole saw). Filing/grinding three flats for the chuck jaws prevents slipping (but sometimes a limited amount of slipping is better). This method works well using even a hahdheld drill motor if used cautiously. WB .......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "nick hull" wrote in message .. . Plastic work, but I'll use metal tools. I need to drill a 3.5" hole at 40 deg in a 3/4" piece of plastic HDPE. Since the slant depth is about 6" and a hole saw usually only goes 1.5" I see problems. The only solutions I have been able to imagine involve making my own hole saw out of 3.5" steel pipe and using it in a drill press or lathe (sort of like line boring, which I know little about). The purpose of this drill is to make a 'flange' to adapt a (somewhat bent) SS horizontal cylinder cistern tank to accept a 3" sch 40 pipe containing roof runoff water, and maybe a 1.5" overflow pipe as well. small leaks are acceptable, but the result should be bug proof and stop all sunlight. Ideas welcome Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
On Aug 15, 11:30 am, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote: SO read my previous posts. Drill the hole and put a boot or caulk it. YOU and none of us will ever make a perfect sliding micron fit. As soon as the temperature changes holes get larger when hot and smaller when cold. Pipes get shorter when cold and get fatter..... **** a Duck Martin - if you do me the same courtesy of reading my previous posts on this subject, you will see that "fit for purpose" - (an engineering term) "Its not the space shuttle" "you dont need 5 thou tolerances" And its a piece of PVC drain pipe - said that too, but you had trouble with that one. Martin, its the sort of job you do in 10 minutes with basic hand tools. (Which most hobbyists, like young apprentices, never learn to use - they are in love with the power of big machines.) The ONLY skill required is to be able to mark out accurately the ellipse of the cutout (I said that as well, previously) - and even thats optional - plumbers certainly don't do it. I would, because I learnt how to apply basic geometry, engineering drawing and marking out at Trade School. And I like to apply skills I have learnt - no one will ever see it, but I would know if its not up to scratch. You don't need to buy anything, except maybe a tube of silastic. No lathes, mills, special tools, modified holesaws, red hot rams, rubber boots - we have a saying here Martin, its "Just Do It" Andrew VK3BFA. And Wild Bill, has got it in one, an excellent posting, down in far better descriptive grammar than I ever could - follow his instructions, and it will be DONE!!!! |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
The oval is really a round at a slant. That is why you use a hole saw. They will cut on one edge and the other edge flying. Normal drills skip. Forstner drills drill holes at angles. Simple as that. Just position on a mill or drill and drill. If you want to draw a oval and guess it will work or buy some fancy stuff at the welding shop - they have them - paper examples. Go ahead. Get out a saber saw and have at it. But cutting an oval won't fit. An oval will fit if cut perfectly only at a thin point. The edge isn't beveled inward to match the pipe. So cutting flat will have fillet issues that you have to boot or caulk. If you drill it, have it in in the angle that is needed under the drill. If you saw - then do your best and work with what you have. Try it out on scrap first. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ wrote: snip the obscene crap that didn't read my post of just drill it and caulk . "Just Do It" Andrew VK3BFA. And Wild Bill, has got it in one, an excellent posting, down in far better descriptive grammar than I ever could - follow his instructions, and it will be DONE!!!! ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
Drilling a BIG hole at 40 deg...
First of all if you want a somewhat tight fit you have to think 3-D design.
A saw on an oval will work on an odd shaped tube. The sides need to be hollowed at an angle. But like I said if a single point is wanted and the large wedge to be filled on the top oval and bottom oval to match the pipe size - they do as you want Andrew - screw it up. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ wrote: On Aug 15, 11:30 am, "Martin H. Eastburn" wrote: SO read my previous posts. Drill the hole and put a boot or caulk it. YOU and none of us will ever make a perfect sliding micron fit. As soon as the temperature changes holes get larger when hot and smaller when cold. Pipes get shorter when cold and get fatter..... **** a Duck Martin - if you do me the same courtesy of reading my previous posts on this subject, you will see that "fit for purpose" - (an engineering term) "Its not the space shuttle" "you dont need 5 thou tolerances" And its a piece of PVC drain pipe - said that too, but you had trouble with that one. Martin, its the sort of job you do in 10 minutes with basic hand tools. (Which most hobbyists, like young apprentices, never learn to use - they are in love with the power of big machines.) The ONLY skill required is to be able to mark out accurately the ellipse of the cutout (I said that as well, previously) - and even thats optional - plumbers certainly don't do it. I would, because I learnt how to apply basic geometry, engineering drawing and marking out at Trade School. And I like to apply skills I have learnt - no one will ever see it, but I would know if its not up to scratch. You don't need to buy anything, except maybe a tube of silastic. No lathes, mills, special tools, modified holesaws, red hot rams, rubber boots - we have a saying here Martin, its "Just Do It" Andrew VK3BFA. And Wild Bill, has got it in one, an excellent posting, down in far better descriptive grammar than I ever could - follow his instructions, and it will be DONE!!!! ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
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