I've been trying various things over the last few years and I'm just
curious if there's any engineering geniuses out there that have a
better way to do this...

I drill thousands of holes in 1" and 3/4" aluminum square tube (1/16"
thickness). The holes are mostly around 1/4". The distances between
the holes are varied... Could be anything from one inch to a foot.
Also, the 1/4" holes have to go through both sides, but there is also
a smaller third hole on one of the remaining sides that match each of
the first two holes. Because I do so many of these, I'm just looking
for the smartest and quickest method possible. Multi head drills are
out because many of the holes are too close. CNC would be great, but
that's not an option right now. What I have to work with is basically
one drill press. So far I've just tried using one master piece and
then altering the distance of an end stop. That's not great because
then you have to move each piece in and out, which can get tiring
since some pieces are 5' long. Then I went with a template, but the
templates wear out fast and it also doesn't work well with the full
size bits. A smaller pilot bit has to be used first for accuracy, so
then that makes it even longer to drill everything twice. Another
thing that slows things down is that even the smallest amount of burst
burs on the bottom have to be removed in-between each drill move, or
the burs will make the bottom uneven and destabilize the piece on the
next hole.

So far I'm thinking that maybe I could have a jig where there's pre-
marked holes along the length of a base tube, where you could move a
peg tab from hole to hole, using that as your backstop. Then the burr
problem could be eliminated by having the tube sit on top of the open
end of a channel, so there would be space in the middle. I don't know,
that's the best idea I've come up with, but it would still mean moving
each piece in and out for one set of holes. Also, the more you shift
things, the more you run the risk of screwing up. After drilling about
80 holes in one piece and then screwing one up because you flipped
when you should have flopped... that's when you start looking for a
gun. My dream is to have something where you just lock it in and watch
it go, but I don't think I can get something like that right now.

Dave

"Dave99" wrote in message
...
I've been trying various things over the last few years and I'm just
curious if there's any engineering geniuses out there that have a
better way to do this...



as a first step, you might consider having two drill presses side by side,
one with each size drill - drill all the small holes, then move to the next
drill press and drill the larger ones. A foot operated press like was
available with the older Delta presses would be nice also, or an air
operated downfeed.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Dave99 wrote:

I've been trying various things over the last few years and I'm just
curious if there's any engineering geniuses out there that have a
better way to do this...

Are all the holes along the same line?
If so, you could use single axis CNC!

http://www.sherline.com/8800inst.pdf

Put a microswitch on your drillpress quill to hold off controller
movement while you drill. A linear table advances your workpiece
exactly the right distance for your next hole after the quill
returns to the top.

As your budget permits you can add a Z axis and a CNC controller
to orchestrate things and take you out of the picture except for
drill changes and workpiece loading.

--Winston

A pic or print of exactly what you're doing would help with the ideas here.

My first thought, Make a steel tube that just fits over your 3/4 and another
that just fits over your 1 inch tubes. Very carefully drill all the holes in
these larger tubes. Now you have a drill bushing jig. Insert part, drill all
the holes, remove part.

Karl

If the holes are always on the centerline, I would make a steel
angle iron template, clamp the aluminum to the steel, drill 1/8"
holes for all with a portable drill. Go back with the 1/4" or
whatever bit. Drill one side only, all the burrs will be on the
inside.

Templates can be color coded for different patterns or have
separate templates.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Dave99" wrote in message
...
I've been trying various things over the last few years and I'm
just
curious if there's any engineering geniuses out there that have
a
better way to do this...

I drill thousands of holes in 1" and 3/4" aluminum square tube
(1/16"
thickness). The holes are mostly around 1/4". The distances
between
the holes are varied... Could be anything from one inch to a
foot.
Also, the 1/4" holes have to go through both sides, but there is
also
a smaller third hole on one of the remaining sides that match
each of
the first two holes. Because I do so many of these, I'm just
looking
for the smartest and quickest method possible. Multi head drills
are
out because many of the holes are too close. CNC would be great,
but
that's not an option right now. What I have to work with is
basically
one drill press. So far I've just tried using one master piece
and
then altering the distance of an end stop. That's not great
because
then you have to move each piece in and out, which can get
tiring
since some pieces are 5' long. Then I went with a template, but
the
templates wear out fast and it also doesn't work well with the
full
size bits. A smaller pilot bit has to be used first for
accuracy, so
then that makes it even longer to drill everything twice.
Another
thing that slows things down is that even the smallest amount of
burst
burs on the bottom have to be removed in-between each drill
move, or
the burs will make the bottom uneven and destabilize the piece
on the
next hole.

So far I'm thinking that maybe I could have a jig where there's
pre-
marked holes along the length of a base tube, where you could
move a
peg tab from hole to hole, using that as your backstop. Then the
burr
problem could be eliminated by having the tube sit on top of the
open
end of a channel, so there would be space in the middle. I don't
know,
that's the best idea I've come up with, but it would still mean
moving
each piece in and out for one set of holes. Also, the more you
shift
things, the more you run the risk of screwing up. After drilling
about
80 holes in one piece and then screwing one up because you
flipped
when you should have flopped... that's when you start looking
for a
gun. My dream is to have something where you just lock it in and
watch
it go, but I don't think I can get something like that right
now.

Dave

On Jun 26, 1:44 am, Dave99 wrote:
I've been trying various things over the last few years and I'm just
curious if there's any engineering geniuses out there that have a
better way to do this...

I drill thousands of holes in 1" and 3/4" aluminum square tube (1/16"
thickness). The holes are mostly around 1/4". The distances between
the holes are varied... Could be anything from one inch to a foot.
Also, the 1/4" holes have to go through both sides, but there is also
a smaller third hole on one of the remaining sides that match each of
the first two holes. Because I do so many of these, I'm just looking
for the smartest and quickest method possible. Multi head drills are
out because many of the holes are too close. CNC would be great, but
that's not an option right now. What I have to work with is basically
one drill press. So far I've just tried using one master piece and
then altering the distance of an end stop. That's not great because
then you have to move each piece in and out, which can get tiring
since some pieces are 5' long. Then I went with a template, but the
templates wear out fast and it also doesn't work well with the full
size bits. A smaller pilot bit has to be used first for accuracy, so
then that makes it even longer to drill everything twice. Another
thing that slows things down is that even the smallest amount of burst
burs on the bottom have to be removed in-between each drill move, or
the burs will make the bottom uneven and destabilize the piece on the
next hole.

So far I'm thinking that maybe I could have a jig where there's pre-
marked holes along the length of a base tube, where you could move a
peg tab from hole to hole, using that as your backstop. Then the burr
problem could be eliminated by having the tube sit on top of the open
end of a channel, so there would be space in the middle. I don't know,
that's the best idea I've come up with, but it would still mean moving
each piece in and out for one set of holes. Also, the more you shift
things, the more you run the risk of screwing up. After drilling about
80 holes in one piece and then screwing one up because you flipped
when you should have flopped... that's when you start looking for a
gun. My dream is to have something where you just lock it in and watch
it go, but I don't think I can get something like that right now.

Dave



Well, you could use a multihead but drill holes 1,5,10,15, move the
workpiece to the next stop, drill holes 2,6,11,16,....


Dave

A few thoughts:

Consider multiple drill presses. I have two Harbor Freight 16 speed
bench drill presses in the back of the truck (went shopping yesterday)
that will join 2 more. They will be mounted on 24" high bases to get the
table level where I like it. I make extension tables out of heavy
laminate sink cutouts. Everything is fixtured, never have to change a
drill to complete a part. At $200 each, you can save a LOT of time.

Take a look at your designs, see if you can standardize on hole sizes
and/or dimensions. The object is to be able to build the minimum number
of fixtures or templates to handle your product.

Consider mounting your part on a long board under the product,with it's
template clamped on top. Fit your drill press with a hugely oversized
table. Much easier to slide it around and get the next hole.

Your template should use drill bushings for much longer life. These are
hardened steel, hold the drill accurately for 1000's of holes.

Consider a master template with all the holes you could ever want. Flip
a piece of hardboard over the top with suitable notches to remind you
which holes to use. Example: suppose all holes are in 1" increments and
you use two sizes of drills. Fixture has the smaller holes and the
larger holes in 1/2" increments with bushings. When you want a part with
holes 3" on center, grab the cutout with 3" spaces on the notches. If
you need the small holes, the notches are slightly different. If you
want the first hole at 1", next at 2" next at 5", so be it.



Dave99 wrote:
I've been trying various things over the last few years and I'm just
curious if there's any engineering geniuses out there that have a
better way to do this...

I drill thousands of holes in 1" and 3/4" aluminum square tube (1/16"
thickness). The holes are mostly around 1/4". The distances between
the holes are varied... Could be anything from one inch to a foot.
Also, the 1/4" holes have to go through both sides, but there is also
a smaller third hole on one of the remaining sides that match each of
the first two holes. Because I do so many of these, I'm just looking
for the smartest and quickest method possible. Multi head drills are
out because many of the holes are too close. CNC would be great, but
that's not an option right now. What I have to work with is basically
one drill press. So far I've just tried using one master piece and
then altering the distance of an end stop. That's not great because
then you have to move each piece in and out, which can get tiring
since some pieces are 5' long. Then I went with a template, but the
templates wear out fast and it also doesn't work well with the full
size bits. A smaller pilot bit has to be used first for accuracy, so
then that makes it even longer to drill everything twice. Another
thing that slows things down is that even the smallest amount of burst
burs on the bottom have to be removed in-between each drill move, or
the burs will make the bottom uneven and destabilize the piece on the
next hole.

So far I'm thinking that maybe I could have a jig where there's pre-
marked holes along the length of a base tube, where you could move a
peg tab from hole to hole, using that as your backstop. Then the burr
problem could be eliminated by having the tube sit on top of the open
end of a channel, so there would be space in the middle. I don't know,
that's the best idea I've come up with, but it would still mean moving
each piece in and out for one set of holes. Also, the more you shift
things, the more you run the risk of screwing up. After drilling about
80 holes in one piece and then screwing one up because you flipped
when you should have flopped... that's when you start looking for a
gun. My dream is to have something where you just lock it in and watch
it go, but I don't think I can get something like that right now.

Dave

Drill bushings are not expensive, when you consider the use you will get out
of them. Make a drill-jig out of angle or channel for each model and put
bushings in them. color-code hole sizes, clamp the jig on the workpiece, and
drill one size, change bits and do next size, etc. Or as Wm and Roy
mentioned, get multiple drill-presses to speed up the work. At $200 a pop
from Harbor Freight, it ought to give you the production gain you wish.

As for the breakout burrs, consider making a channel in the table, and put
up a fence to keep the piece aligned with the channel. Deburr as a final
operation, not one-at-a-time.

Flash
"Dave99" wrote in message
...
I've been trying various things over the last few years and I'm just
curious if there's any engineering geniuses out there that have a
better way to do this...

I drill thousands of holes in 1" and 3/4" aluminum square tube (1/16"
thickness). The holes are mostly around 1/4". The distances between
the holes are varied... Could be anything from one inch to a foot.
Also, the 1/4" holes have to go through both sides, but there is also
a smaller third hole on one of the remaining sides that match each of
the first two holes. Because I do so many of these, I'm just looking
for the smartest and quickest method possible. Multi head drills are
out because many of the holes are too close. CNC would be great, but
that's not an option right now. What I have to work with is basically
one drill press. So far I've just tried using one master piece and
then altering the distance of an end stop. That's not great because
then you have to move each piece in and out, which can get tiring
since some pieces are 5' long. Then I went with a template, but the
templates wear out fast and it also doesn't work well with the full
size bits. A smaller pilot bit has to be used first for accuracy, so
then that makes it even longer to drill everything twice. Another
thing that slows things down is that even the smallest amount of burst
burs on the bottom have to be removed in-between each drill move, or
the burs will make the bottom uneven and destabilize the piece on the
next hole.

So far I'm thinking that maybe I could have a jig where there's pre-
marked holes along the length of a base tube, where you could move a
peg tab from hole to hole, using that as your backstop. Then the burr
problem could be eliminated by having the tube sit on top of the open
end of a channel, so there would be space in the middle. I don't know,
that's the best idea I've come up with, but it would still mean moving
each piece in and out for one set of holes. Also, the more you shift
things, the more you run the risk of screwing up. After drilling about
80 holes in one piece and then screwing one up because you flipped
when you should have flopped... that's when you start looking for a
gun. My dream is to have something where you just lock it in and watch
it go, but I don't think I can get something like that right now.

Dave

Thanks for the ideas... You know, I was going to ask if anyone knew of
anything like that single axis machine. That might actually work. But
I guess I'd have to build a table for that.

What I used for a template before was aluminum angle. I knew the
aluminum would wear out faster than steel, but I didn't realize how
much faster. I was careful to try and not hit the template, but it
still wore out after about 80 drillings per hole. I didn't even
realize it until I started noticing some inaccurate holes, then I put
the drill bit in there an realized they had gone way larger through
wear. Maybe a steel one would last longer. I'm hesitant to use
bushings because I've got many patterns and versions. It would
probably cost about 1k in bushings.

Thanks,

Dave