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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Ed Huntress wrote:
"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: snip The channel was broached. Probably after being hot-punched in a secondary forging operation. The whole body could be forged and punched in two hits. Thanks for the thoughts. That was my own best guess. I'm a little surprised that it's possible to broach a deep channel with such thin walls (only about 3/32" thick) without everything getting mangled. Guess the key must be getting it hot enough. Production broaching is not much like the kind we do in hobby work. The broach itself looks more like a long, extremely coarse tapered file -- some as long as twenty feet or so -- with each successive tooth cutting a thousanth or three more than the last one, typically cutting on all sides at once (or not, depending on the job -- some cut on only one side at a time). They come in two general types: pull-broaches and push-broaches. They were made from a single piece of tool steel but recent ones have replaceable inserts. Another thing I've been wondering about: is the broach inserted into an oversize hole and firmly held by guide rails, or is the broach self-centring in a tight pilot hole? In other words, what determines the precise location of the broached hole? Best wishes, Chris |
#2
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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![]() "Christopher Tidy" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: "Christopher Tidy" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: snip The channel was broached. Probably after being hot-punched in a secondary forging operation. The whole body could be forged and punched in two hits. Thanks for the thoughts. That was my own best guess. I'm a little surprised that it's possible to broach a deep channel with such thin walls (only about 3/32" thick) without everything getting mangled. Guess the key must be getting it hot enough. Production broaching is not much like the kind we do in hobby work. The broach itself looks more like a long, extremely coarse tapered file -- some as long as twenty feet or so -- with each successive tooth cutting a thousanth or three more than the last one, typically cutting on all sides at once (or not, depending on the job -- some cut on only one side at a time). They come in two general types: pull-broaches and push-broaches. They were made from a single piece of tool steel but recent ones have replaceable inserts. Another thing I've been wondering about: is the broach inserted into an oversize hole and firmly held by guide rails, or is the broach self-centring in a tight pilot hole? In other words, what determines the precise location of the broached hole? Push broaches are usually located with their own guides, but they can be free-floating in jobs for which precise location is not important. In the case of a an old wrench, it could be free-floating. The punched hole was close enough. The hole is undersize, not oversize. The leading end of the broach is undersize, and then the teeth progressively cut the hole to size. -- Ed Huntress |
#3
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ed Huntress wrote:
Push broaches are usually located with their own guides, but they can be free-floating in jobs for which precise location is not important. In the case of a an old wrench, it could be free-floating. The punched hole was close enough. Thanks. It's interesting to know that you can get both kinds. Looking at the wrench, the hole appears to be quite precisely located, so I imagine there was some kind of guide. The hole is undersize, not oversize. The leading end of the broach is undersize, and then the teeth progressively cut the hole to size. I meant oversize relative to the small end of the broach, not the finished hole. Best wishes, Chris |
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