I normally use my Craftsman combined plier/cutter/stripper/bolt-cutter/
crimper to crimp the yellow lugs from the home centers for 10-12 gauge
wire. Although a trusty tool, it doesn't crimp very well. Either I
have to squeeze it with both hands (not always possible), or I have to
listen to my joints crack when I squeeze one hand with all my might.
And some of the lugs fall off later on no matter how careful I am. I
wanted a Greenlee 45500 ratcheting crimper but didn't want to spend
$70. I picked up Harbor Freight's version earlier today. Here is my
opinion after about a dozen crimps:

The 93977 crimper is $15 at the store but on sale for $10 on their web
page. As usual, my local store price matched without any hassle. The
tool is made in Taiwan, with excellent fit and finish, and the design
appears durable. The die has three color coded positions for the
yellow, red and blue crimp terminals found at the home centers. The
ratcheting mechanism is smooth and "sounds" well made. If you start
squeezing the handle, you can't stop and open it up until you squeeze
all the way and the ratcheting mechanism releases. This prevents a
partial crimp. Also the ratcheting mechanism does a good job at
"gearing down" the squeezing force, so I don't have to squeeze with
all my might. I can easily and comfortably operate it with one hand.
Once crimped, there are two round depressions all the way around the
lug, unlike the one dimple my other tool produced. The ratcheting
mechanism can be adjusted via a knob. The dies are removable, but
Harbor Freight does not sell individual dies. Greenlee sells vast
numbers of individual dies for their crimper (for lugs, coax
connectors, fiber connectors, network connectors, and other exotic
connectors requiring crimping). I wonder if they will fit.

Overall I think the tool works well and I'm very satisfied so far.

I have a similar ratcheting crimp, and I am very satisfied.

i

....
I have a similar ratcheting crimp, and I am very satisfied.

I'm curious if I'm the only one...

I've historically had maybe 1 in 20 or 1 in 50 crimps pull out later. Then a
MISERABLE time finding what went wrong. So, I gave up. I solder all my crimp
connectors to the wire.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

...
I have a similar ratcheting crimp, and I am very satisfied.

I'm curious if I'm the only one...

I've historically had maybe 1 in 20 or 1 in 50 crimps pull out later. Then a
MISERABLE time finding what went wrong. So, I gave up. I solder all my crimp
connectors to the wire.

Karl

That is typically the case with the non-ratcheting crimpers, or a
ratcheting one that is out of adjustment, or poor quality terminals used
with any crimper, or the wrong size wire used with a terminal.

A properly adjusted ratchet crimper used on quality terminals within the
specified wire gauge range is generally quite reliable. The problem as
you can see is there are a lot of variables.

On 2007-12-08, Karl Townsend wrote:
...
I have a similar ratcheting crimp, and I am very satisfied.

I'm curious if I'm the only one...

I've historically had maybe 1 in 20 or 1 in 50 crimps pull out later. Then a
MISERABLE time finding what went wrong. So, I gave up. I solder all my crimp
connectors to the wire.

I do this only on very safety critical things or where there is
contamination, flexing etc, like trailer wiring. Supposedly, a good
crimp does not need soldering. I never had any crimps pull out, but
then, I never had a situation where crimp was taking any serious
mechanical stress.

i

On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 12:53:04 -0600, Ignoramus21145
wrote:

On 2007-12-08, Karl Townsend wrote:
...
I have a similar ratcheting crimp, and I am very satisfied.

I'm curious if I'm the only one...

I've historically had maybe 1 in 20 or 1 in 50 crimps pull out later. Then a
MISERABLE time finding what went wrong. So, I gave up. I solder all my crimp
connectors to the wire.

I do this only on very safety critical things or where there is
contamination, flexing etc, like trailer wiring. Supposedly, a good
crimp does not need soldering. I never had any crimps pull out, but
then, I never had a situation where crimp was taking any serious
mechanical stress.

i

This is exactly where a *good* crimp is the better termination. Solder
wicks up inside stranded wire, making it nearly certain to eventually
break due to fatigue if there is repeated flexing. A good crimp is
gas-tight, so corrosion is not an issue. However, it is not easy to
consistently make good crimps with a hardware-store-type single-action
(not compound leverage) crimper.

For heavy wire like welding cable or battery leads, I use a hammer
crimp tool. Not this exact model, but same idea:
http://store.solar-electric.com/hacrtoforlal.html
Hit with BIG hammer, make good crimp. Drag welder around by leads,
the crimps won't pull out!

On 2007-12-08, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 12:53:04 -0600, Ignoramus21145
wrote:

On 2007-12-08, Karl Townsend wrote:
...
I have a similar ratcheting crimp, and I am very satisfied.

I'm curious if I'm the only one...

I've historically had maybe 1 in 20 or 1 in 50 crimps pull out later. Then a
MISERABLE time finding what went wrong. So, I gave up. I solder all my crimp
connectors to the wire.

I do this only on very safety critical things or where there is
contamination, flexing etc, like trailer wiring. Supposedly, a good
crimp does not need soldering. I never had any crimps pull out, but
then, I never had a situation where crimp was taking any serious
mechanical stress.


Just to clarify, I would crimp and solder.


This is exactly where a *good* crimp is the better termination. Solder
wicks up inside stranded wire, making it nearly certain to eventually
break due to fatigue if there is repeated flexing. A good crimp is
gas-tight, so corrosion is not an issue. However, it is not easy to
consistently make good crimps with a hardware-store-type single-action
(not compound leverage) crimper.

Yes.

For heavy wire like welding cable or battery leads, I use a hammer
crimp tool. Not this exact model, but same idea:
http://store.solar-electric.com/hacrtoforlal.html
Hit with BIG hammer, make good crimp. Drag welder around by leads,
the crimps won't pull out!

There are manual crimpers sold for this, trhey are large, like bolt
cutters.
i

On Sat, 8 Dec 2007 09:06:59 -0600, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

...
I have a similar ratcheting crimp, and I am very satisfied.

I'm curious if I'm the only one...

I've historically had maybe 1 in 20 or 1 in 50 crimps pull out later. Then a
MISERABLE time finding what went wrong. So, I gave up. I solder all my crimp
connectors to the wire.

Karl

It depends on the terminal, wire, crimper, use and the
operator. Way too many variables involved for just one
answer as to "why it failed".

Some terminals are just crap and some are really, really
nice. But you pay for the latter, unless you can find a good
deal some how (yard sale, auction...).

Personally I despise the ratchet crimpers. Once you start
squeezing, it is a pain to reposition the lug (some do have
a convenient release, but many don't). Sometimes a full
crimp is more than what should be used on a particular
application. The person doing the crimping should be making
this determination not the tool.

One trick that can help if the terminal is a bit too big is
to strip your wire twice as long and fold it over in half.
Shove that into the terminal and crimp. A full terminal
almost always holds better.

Practice, practice, practice and figure out why when
failures do happen.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 15:35:21 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:


It depends on the terminal, wire, crimper, use and the
operator. Way too many variables involved for just one
answer as to "why it failed".

Some terminals are just crap and some are really, really
nice. But you pay for the latter, unless you can find a good
deal some how (yard sale, auction...).

Personally I despise the ratchet crimpers. Once you start
squeezing, it is a pain to reposition the lug (some do have
a convenient release, but many don't).

The HF crimper does have a ratchet release lever. I wouldn't exactly
call it "convenient", but it's there.

On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 17:00:32 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 15:35:21 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:


It depends on the terminal, wire, crimper, use and the
operator. Way too many variables involved for just one
answer as to "why it failed".

Some terminals are just crap and some are really, really
nice. But you pay for the latter, unless you can find a good
deal some how (yard sale, auction...).

Personally I despise the ratchet crimpers. Once you start
squeezing, it is a pain to reposition the lug (some do have
a convenient release, but many don't).

The HF crimper does have a ratchet release lever. I wouldn't exactly
call it "convenient", but it's there.

That is nice to know. I'll have to take a look at it next
time I get to HF. So did you buy one?

I suspect ratchet crimpers work really well in a controlled
setting. Where you know the wire size, terminal and
application. Then you can have any Tom, Dick or Harry
squeeze the handle and get the desired result.

I had to make do with the terminals I had with me in my
parts caddy at the time. Then maybe stand on my head to
reach the wire up underneath the dash or some similarly
awkward place...

I used several different crimp tools though. Needed open
barrel (sometimes called Flag), insulated, un-insulated and
specials for odd RF/coaxial connectors.

It is only in relatively recent years that you can get
inexpensive crimpers that do a pretty decent job. The
specials used to cost ~$100 plus. Kind of hard to justify
buying when you only needed one once or twice a year.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 15:35:21 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:


Some terminals are just crap and some are really, really
nice. But you pay for the latter, unless you can find a good
deal some how (yard sale, auction...).


A LOT of terminals are Utter Crap. Its getting hard to f ind good
ones that dont cost a second on the homestead.

Gunner

On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 22:53:21 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Sat, 08 Dec 2007 15:35:21 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:


Some terminals are just crap and some are really, really
nice. But you pay for the latter, unless you can find a good
deal some how (yard sale, auction...).


A LOT of terminals are Utter Crap. Its getting hard to find good
ones that dont cost a second on the homestead.

Gunner

I hear you, but they are wonderful to use when you can get
your grubby little hands on them

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Albert" wrote in message
...
I normally use my Craftsman combined plier/cutter/stripper/bolt-cutter/
crimper to crimp the yellow lugs from the home centers for 10-12 gauge
wire. Although a trusty tool, it doesn't crimp very well. Either I
have to squeeze it with both hands (not always possible), or I have to
listen to my joints crack when I squeeze one hand with all my might.
And some of the lugs fall off later on no matter how careful I am. I
wanted a Greenlee 45500 ratcheting crimper but didn't want to spend
$70. I picked up Harbor Freight's version earlier today. Here is my
opinion after about a dozen crimps:

The 93977 crimper is $15 at the store but on sale for $10 on their web
page. As usual, my local store price matched without any hassle. The
tool is made in Taiwan, with excellent fit and finish, and the design
appears durable. The die has three color coded positions for the
yellow, red and blue crimp terminals found at the home centers. The
ratcheting mechanism is smooth and "sounds" well made. If you start
squeezing the handle, you can't stop and open it up until you squeeze
all the way and the ratcheting mechanism releases. This prevents a
partial crimp. Also the ratcheting mechanism does a good job at
"gearing down" the squeezing force, so I don't have to squeeze with
all my might. I can easily and comfortably operate it with one hand.
Once crimped, there are two round depressions all the way around the
lug, unlike the one dimple my other tool produced. The ratcheting
mechanism can be adjusted via a knob. The dies are removable, but
Harbor Freight does not sell individual dies. Greenlee sells vast
numbers of individual dies for their crimper (for lugs, coax
connectors, fiber connectors, network connectors, and other exotic
connectors requiring crimping). I wonder if they will fit.

Overall I think the tool works well and I'm very satisfied so far.

Albert,

Thanks for taking the time to write the above review. This is exactly one
of the purposes of this news group!!!!!

Ivan Vegvary

On 2007-12-08, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Albert,

Thanks for taking the time to write the above review. This is exactly one
of the purposes of this news group!!!!!


I would like to second this also. Thank you!

i

On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 23:54:56 -0800 (PST), Albert
wrote:

Overall I think the tool works well and I'm very satisfied so far.

THANK YOU!

(On the way to HF, out!)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...unction=Search
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Albert wrote:

I normally use my Craftsman combined plier/cutter/stripper/bolt-cutter/
crimper to crimp the yellow lugs from the home centers for 10-12 gauge
wire. Although a trusty tool, it doesn't crimp very well. Either I
have to squeeze it with both hands (not always possible), or I have to
listen to my joints crack when I squeeze one hand with all my might.
And some of the lugs fall off later on no matter how careful I am. I
wanted a Greenlee 45500 ratcheting crimper but didn't want to spend
$70. I picked up Harbor Freight's version earlier today. Here is my
opinion after about a dozen crimps:

The 93977 crimper is $15 at the store but on sale for $10 on their web
page. As usual, my local store price matched without any hassle. The
tool is made in Taiwan, with excellent fit and finish, and the design
appears durable. The die has three color coded positions for the
yellow, red and blue crimp terminals found at the home centers. The
ratcheting mechanism is smooth and "sounds" well made. If you start
squeezing the handle, you can't stop and open it up until you squeeze
all the way and the ratcheting mechanism releases. This prevents a
partial crimp. Also the ratcheting mechanism does a good job at
"gearing down" the squeezing force, so I don't have to squeeze with
all my might. I can easily and comfortably operate it with one hand.
Once crimped, there are two round depressions all the way around the
lug, unlike the one dimple my other tool produced. The ratcheting
mechanism can be adjusted via a knob. The dies are removable, but
Harbor Freight does not sell individual dies. Greenlee sells vast
numbers of individual dies for their crimper (for lugs, coax
connectors, fiber connectors, network connectors, and other exotic
connectors requiring crimping). I wonder if they will fit.

Overall I think the tool works well and I'm very satisfied so far.


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."