Looking for a tool holder that will allow me to insert a standard
countersink tool and use it for a light deburring operation on a hole.
Needs a bit of float so that I can use a multiple spindle head where the
countersink tools may have a different insertion length of anywhere from
..001" to .100" or so. The multiple spindle head I'm making will be about
36" long and have 15 spindles...

I can bore the spindles identically, but there is no guarantee that the
customer will insert the tooling exactly the same every time... Thus my
question.

Ideally, the attachment I'm seeking would have a 5/8" or smaller round shank
to put in my ER collet chucks and then hold the countersink and allow it to
float under spring pressure that .100" or less so that all the holes
"in-line" on the head are basically just touched with the tooling and none
receive a super-deep cut...

Thoughts? Off-the-shelf answers? Leftover moldy turkey?

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 16:58:25 GMT, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

Looking for a tool holder that will allow me to insert a standard
countersink tool and use it for a light deburring operation on a hole.
Needs a bit of float so that I can use a multiple spindle head where the
countersink tools may have a different insertion length of anywhere from
.001" to .100" or so. The multiple spindle head I'm making will be about
36" long and have 15 spindles...

I can bore the spindles identically, but there is no guarantee that the
customer will insert the tooling exactly the same every time... Thus my
question.

Ideally, the attachment I'm seeking would have a 5/8" or smaller round shank
to put in my ER collet chucks and then hold the countersink and allow it to
float under spring pressure that .100" or less so that all the holes
"in-line" on the head are basically just touched with the tooling and none
receive a super-deep cut...

Thoughts? Off-the-shelf answers? Leftover moldy turkey?

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R
==================
Have you considered using step drills? This will eliminate a
secondary operation.

You can also add a chamfer cutter to a drill or reamer.
http://www.vernondevices.com/chambit.htm

If the holes are tapped, you may want to consider a spring loaded
chamfer cutter such as a "burr-bit."
http://vernondevices.com/formingtap.htm


You may want to include something like a drill stop, possibly in
combination with a chamfer device on the drill.
http://www.vernondevices.com/stopbit.htm


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

-Hmmm. Howzabout sticking the shank of the countersink in a Tapmatic
and cranking up the torque?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Whatever happened
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : to Tom Nelson?
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

"steamer" wrote in message
...
-Hmmm. Howzabout sticking the shank of the countersink in a Tapmatic
and cranking up the torque?

Hehehe... The very first thing I thought of. 15+ spindles later, that's a
lot of tapmatics! Probably cost prohibitive.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
Looking for a tool holder that will allow me to insert a standard
countersink tool and use it for a light deburring operation on a hole.
Needs a bit of float so that I can use a multiple spindle head where the
countersink tools may have a different insertion length of anywhere from
.001" to .100" or so. The multiple spindle head I'm making will be about
36" long and have 15 spindles...

I can bore the spindles identically, but there is no guarantee that the
customer will insert the tooling exactly the same every time... Thus my
question.

Ideally, the attachment I'm seeking would have a 5/8" or smaller round shank
to put in my ER collet chucks and then hold the countersink and allow it to
float under spring pressure that .100" or less so that all the holes
"in-line" on the head are basically just touched with the tooling and none
receive a super-deep cut...

Thoughts? Off-the-shelf answers? Leftover moldy turkey?

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R




Used to run CNC machining centers along time ago, in a tractor factory
far, far away. Taps were held in a collect type (DA if I remember
correctly) holder with a straight shank that was spring loaded both
ways, this in turn was held in a standard ER collet tool holder. In use
a feed slightly higher than the tap lead was programmed both in and out,
thus the spring pressure pushed and pulled the tap in and out of the
hole. Possibly something like this, maybe with a somewhat lighter
spring, might work for counter sinking. I never new their correct name
or who made them.

For chamfers on holes to be tapped subland drills were used to eliminate
the chamfering tool, on radial drill operations 'burr bits' were used on
the tap itself.

I think what you need is out there, off the shelf, you'll just have to
track it down.

Regards
Paul




--
-----------------------------------------
It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be.
-----------------------------------------

Have you considered using step drills? This will eliminate a
secondary operation.

Same issue... Drillign through a product there aren't many worries about
overstroke unless you hit the table below or run out of drill... With the
deburr-via-countersink, he needs to hold depth quite accurately.

You can also add a chamfer cutter to a drill or reamer.
http://www.vernondevices.com/chambit.htm

If the holes are tapped, you may want to consider a spring loaded
chamfer cutter such as a "burr-bit."
http://vernondevices.com/formingtap.htm


You may want to include something like a drill stop, possibly in
combination with a chamfer device on the drill.
http://www.vernondevices.com/stopbit.htm

Bingo! Exactly what someone handed me about 10 minutes ago. Just got off
the phone with them and while I thought the "Counter-bit" would be perfect,
they claim it doesn't float in the way that I need it to...

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

There is a company that makes spindles that float like this just for
deburring/chamfering. They have both axial compliant models and angular
compliant models.
http://www.ati-ia.com/products/debur...ring_home.aspx

Interesting. Inquiry sent off to them. Seems high-end, but ya never know!
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

On 2007-11-30, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
There is a company that makes spindles that float like this just for
deburring/chamfering. They have both axial compliant models and angular
compliant models.
http://www.ati-ia.com/products/debur...ring_home.aspx

Interesting. Inquiry sent off to them. Seems high-end, but ya never know!

You know -- I've just realized that I have something similar to
your original need statement -- except in size. It is a sensitive drill
chuck -- a 1/8" Albrecht chuck in a 1/2" shank with a spring-retracted
sliding inner shank keyed to the outer shank -- and a ball-bearing
mounted ring just above the chuck for allowing you to pull it down by
hand.

I would suggest getting one of these and taking it apart to see
how it is made, then just making your own. You could add a spring to
push down on the ball bearing ring just a bit to make it self-adjusting
and make sure that it is not bottomed by the interior spring at rest.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

You know -- I've just realized that I have something similar to
your original need statement -- except in size. It is a sensitive drill
chuck -- a 1/8" Albrecht chuck in a 1/2" shank with a spring-retracted
sliding inner shank keyed to the outer shank -- and a ball-bearing
mounted ring just above the chuck for allowing you to pull it down by
hand.

I would suggest getting one of these and taking it apart to see
how it is made, then just making your own. You could add a spring to
push down on the ball bearing ring just a bit to make it self-adjusting
and make sure that it is not bottomed by the interior spring at rest.

Might just work for my customer's application since it is a simple deburr...
But doesn't the accuracy of said chuck suffer for critical applications?
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

On 2007-12-03, Joe AutoDrill wrote:

[ ... ]

your original need statement -- except in size. It is a sensitive drill
chuck -- a 1/8" Albrecht chuck in a 1/2" shank with a spring-retracted
sliding inner shank keyed to the outer shank -- and a ball-bearing
mounted ring just above the chuck for allowing you to pull it down by
hand.

I would suggest getting one of these and taking it apart to see
how it is made, then just making your own. You could add a spring to
push down on the ball bearing ring just a bit to make it self-adjusting
and make sure that it is not bottomed by the interior spring at rest.

Might just work for my customer's application since it is a simple deburr...
But doesn't the accuracy of said chuck suffer for critical applications?

Well ... I have used mine with solid carbide drill bits down to
#70 (and steel ones down to #80), and as long as the chuck which is
holding the shank has little runout, so does the carbide bit. Since the
solid carbide bits are *very* brittle, I would know if there were
problems with this.

IIRC, the construction is a sliding drill rod in a reamed hole,
with a keyway milled into the side of the drill rod, and the edge of a
Woodruff key held in to engage it through a slot milled in the outer
shank by a spring ring in a groove turned into the outer shank (so it
does not project above the OD of the shank). So -- it is up to how
concentric the hole is in the outer shank, and how concentric the inner
shank is with the Jacobs taper on the end of the inner shank. (Oh yes,
and the match of OD of the inner shank and ID of the outer shank, of
course.)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---