What are the steps in downsizing a (sterling silver) ring about one
size? I bought one on which I guesstimated the size based on cheapo
ring size gages and it's too loose.

Or should this only be done by a jeweler, and if so, how much should
it cost about?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
What are the steps in downsizing a (sterling silver) ring about one
size? I bought one on which I guesstimated the size based on cheapo
ring size gages and it's too loose.

Or should this only be done by a jeweler, and if so, how much should
it cost about?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington

GE:

On the el cheapo line, you can put in a smaller insert. The slick way is to
cut the ring, recurve it on a mandrel to the right size, fit the sawed ends
for a tight butt joint and silver solder it. The result can be
imperceptible.
But, in your place, I would ask on rec.crafts.jewelry where there are some
friendly and very informed
folk who know more and would have price concepts.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Grant Erwin writes:

... cheapo ring size gages ...

For ring size R, the ID in inches is 0.032 * R + 0.458, so you can use your
calipers next time to measure something that fits well.

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
What are the steps in downsizing a (sterling silver) ring about one
size? I bought one on which I guesstimated the size based on cheapo
ring size gages and it's too loose.

Or should this only be done by a jeweler, and if so, how much should
it cost about?

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington

Eat more, excercize less, drink beer!

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
What are the steps in downsizing a (sterling silver) ring about one
size? I bought one on which I guesstimated the size based on cheapo
ring size gages and it's too loose.

Or should this only be done by a jeweler, and if so, how much should
it cost about?

Not a job for a novice.Should be done by a pro, but you're unlikely to find
one that will do it for a silver ring .. probably cost several time what
the ring is worth. The only reason to do it is that it is an heirloom piece
with great sentimental value.

1. cut the shank at the back (opposite the stone) with a Jeweler's saw.
Two cuts needed as far apart as needed to reduce he requisite size. Say
1-2 mm.

2. Clean up the cuts so that the two faces match perfectly.

3. Bind the ring together using soft iron wire, so that the two pieces
match tight-- because when you solder it, the silver expansion will cause
the gap to spread.

4. Solder the joint. This is the tricky part because silver issuch a good
heat conductor that you have to that the whole ting red-hot to get the
solder to flow. This is where the expertise comes in.

5. Clean up the joint, inside and out and resize up to the correct size.

As a simpler and easier alternative, buy a ring "guard." a simple strip of
metal with tabs at the end that fits inside the shank. It is not visible to
the casual observer. This is the way to go because (for most women) after
age 40 or so the ring will most likely have to be enlarged in order to fit
over her knuckles Procrastination pays.

This is much easier to do with gold, and even easier for platinum.


Boris

"Boris Beizer" wrote in message
...

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
What are the steps in downsizing a (sterling silver) ring about one
size? I bought one on which I guesstimated the size based on cheapo
ring size gages and it's too loose.

Or should this only be done by a jeweler, and if so, how much should
it cost about?

Not a job for a novice.Should be done by a pro, but you're unlikely to
find one that will do it for a silver ring .. probably cost several time
what the ring is worth. The only reason to do it is that it is an
heirloom piece with great sentimental value.

1. cut the shank at the back (opposite the stone) with a Jeweler's saw.
Two cuts needed as far apart as needed to reduce he requisite size. Say
1-2 mm.

2. Clean up the cuts so that the two faces match perfectly.

3. Bind the ring together using soft iron wire, so that the two pieces
match tight-- because when you solder it, the silver expansion will
cause the gap to spread.

4. Solder the joint. This is the tricky part because silver issuch a
good heat conductor that you have to that the whole ting red-hot to get
the solder to flow. This is where the expertise comes in.

5. Clean up the joint, inside and out and resize up to the correct size.

As a simpler and easier alternative, buy a ring "guard." a simple strip
of metal with tabs at the end that fits inside the shank. It is not
visible to the casual observer. This is the way to go because (for most
women) after age 40 or so the ring will most likely have to be enlarged
in order to fit over her knuckles Procrastination pays.

This is much easier to do with gold, and even easier for platinum.


Boris



What Boris says is correct, with a couple of caveats.

First, silver soldering in the jewelery industry is now called silver
brazing by the welding industry (they have to change the name of everything
every few years). The principal solders used are called easy, medium and
hard. They have a silver content from 65%-75% and a flow point between 1325f
and 1450f. That's only 200-300 less than the melting point of sterling.

Second, if there are any stones more heat sensitive than diamond or sapphire
they should be removed. If there is sufficient heat break between the shank
and the stones, you can isolate with wet sand and work hard and fast. But
this demands a fair amount of skill and I would not suggest this for a first
timer.

Third, one size in american sizes translates to 2.5mm or .10 in of the
circumference measured at the interior of the shank. It is typical to cut it
to a slightly smaller size and stretch it back up on a tapered mandrel. this
also rerounds the shank.

Paul K. Dickman