resending this reply, which seems to have gotten lost by Teranews, for
several attempts/tries

I don't know of any printed or online material, DoN. I haven't even seen any
quality automotive tool catalogs in years, which might show the various
styles of accessories available.

I'm not sure what you meant by getting the/a (tool) "started under the end
of the muffler's clamp". To the best of my recollection, clamps were always
removed (by other means) before using the chisels to separate the
pipe/tubing joint.

I do know that in the 70s & 80s many offshore manufacturers' accessories
were showing up in lots of tool suppliers' product lines. That means that
the original high quality USA made tools were being cloned/copied. Many of
the offshore products were only somewhat reasonable facsimilies of the
"real" tools.
Many of these imported wannabe/looky-a-like-a tools are a catastrophe in
actual use.

The exaust pipe cutters that I remember back when there were still USA tools
around, were actually several different tools. One set was a pair of; cut
left, cut right tools, kinda shaped like half of a (playing card) club.
Another tool was a cutter for removing an internal piece of an exaust pipe
connection, without ruining the external pipe.

I also remember that a Snap-On panel ripper tool (peels a curl of sheetmetal
out of a panel with very little distortion), worked far better than the
imported parts store rippers.
The generic rippers were generally a waste of money as far as performance.
It's easier on the ripper if they're only used for straight cuts, and if the
hand feed pressure is maintained, to prevent the impacts that occur when the
tool is allowed to hammer in the slot.

Another handy panel tool was the spotweld cutter, it was a slim flat chisel,
with a notch in the center of the cutter edge. The chisel was eased into a
spotwelded seam, and run between the panels, and when a spotweld was
encountered, the metal would raise a bit, then the beveled edge of the notch
would either pop the weld apart, or cut through the spot without much edge
distortion.

One very handy accessory is the hammer head (even though hammers are my
least favorite tools, unlike some guys I know). I figured it would be
worthwhile to pay the extra money for a Snap-On hammer head, too.
The hammer can usually be used instead of a pickle fork for removing tapered
studs, such as tierod ends. If the shock is applied to the part the stud
passes through, perpendicular to the stud center axis, the shock will
usually loosen the taper quickly, and salvage the synthetic water/dirt
shield.
Ordinarily, the hammer accessory is only used with substantially heavy duty
parts. Applied to anything that's not built of heavy duty parts will very
likely break some stuff.

Some air chisels came with a (cheaper) quick-change spring tool
holder/retainer. The sometimes don't retain the chisel, especially when the
chisel slips off the workpiece.

The other type of retainer spring looks a bit like a beehive shape, and used
a second piece inside to adapt the chisel shoulder to conform to the inside
shape of the spring. These types of retainer springs need to be unscrewed
completely to change chisels/tools. This type of retainer spring actually
retains the chisel or tool.
These better retainers used to be sold by the tool truck guys.

Eye and face protection, in addition to gloves are mandatory. Also, don't
forget the ear protection.
I never felt cushioned gloves were required, but I would certainly consider
them now, if I were to use an air chisel frequently.
Some situations almost demand that the free hand is used to guide the
chisel, just try not to get into situations that result in much pain and/or
drainage/loss of fluids.

Speakin of drainage, try to predict what might be in danger down-range, if
the chisel should slip off the target. If the operator is leaning into the
air tool, and slips, the next contact could be with a radiator, oil pan,
hose (or vein) or other fragile item.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
O.K. My turn to ask a question instead of answering them.

I just picked up an air hammer with a set of five chisels.

Looking at them, I see things which don't look right to me, but
since I've never used these, I don't know whether the problem is in my
expectations or in the actual chisel set that I got.

In particular, the two chisels which I would have thought would
be for ripping off old mufflers and such -- both sort of 'V' profile,
one symmetrical and the other with one wing shorter and thinner than the
other -- both have rounded corners, which strike me as difficult to get
started under the end of the muffler's clamp. I am tempted to go to the
grinder and sharpen them -- but before I do this, I would like to know
how they *really* are supposed to be used.

I guess that the rounded corner could be started in a drilled
hole for ripping sheet metal (body work). One is just a narrow cone
which would be nice for driving out taper pins or dowel pins. One is a
wide chisel with a groove in the center. And the final one is just a
plain chisel. Both of these last two do have somewhat of an edge,
though far from "scary sharp" (which I would hardly expect to survive
the first five cycles anyway). :-)

So -- Is there a good web site or book which will explain the
uses of these chisels, and how they should be sharpened? The extent of
the "manual" which came with the set was:

1) Always put a few drops of oil in the hose before using the
air hammer.

2) Always put the retaining spring on *before* connecting the
air hose or using it.

Absolutely nothing about the chisels other than "with a 5-chisel
set". :-)

At some point, I'll want to make rivet setting tools to go in
this, of course. And get a needle scaler for it as well.

For that matter -- do I need a cushioning glove to avoid damage
to my hand and wrist?

Thanks all,
DoN.

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