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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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I'm overhauling my old Sasgen Derrick spur-geared winch. parts are no
longer available for it - the company closed recently, after over a hundred years in business in Chicago. the two 1.125 diameter shafts ride in (what I call) "eared bronze bushings" or "externally keyed bronze bushings", all four of which are badly worn - I'll need to either replace (which seems unlikely) or 'refurbish' those STRANGE bushings, somehow or another. I'm considering a few (possibly bizarre) approaches, and I'd also appreciate any ideas *you* have on how to best accomplish the goal. 'best' here defined as 'most bang for the least buck'. especially please see this image (and the caption below it), and the four images or so immediately following it, which should clearly illustrate the problem. http://machines.pandela.net/sasgen_w...s/photo37.html thanks for ideas and tips, How about using a standard round bushing, slightly oversized. Press it in, ream or burnish it to size on the ID... Keep a "lip" on one size and and then use a shaft collar or maybe pressed-on bearing to hold the bushing in place from the other side / laterally since it looks as if that pin keeps it from sliding in and/or out? It shouldn't spin in the housing... We don't pin, key or even set-screw ours in place and we stroke a quill against them 24/7 on production drills. No movement. It looks as if the keyway of sorts was put in to keep it from spinning... Stabilization. I'd think there were other ways to stabilize it. Or... How about re-working it so that the housing and shaft simply use a standard roller bearing? You might have to be creative to keep it in the housing as I'd be real careful pressing anything into that bore, but it might work well for you... Or... Open the ID of the existing bronze, press in a new piece of bronze tube as a liner to get the proper OD for the reworked shaft diameters? Maybe use AluminumBronze for a harder surface that is still softer than the steel shafts? Is that solid bronze or oil-filled stuff? If it is oil-filled, you can forget making anything stick to it unless it is pressed in, threaded in, etc. Even then, it's a weak(ish) material that doesn't hold "stuff" well. -- Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com V8013-R |
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