Updated pictures here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/

I welded those feet that I made, onto the mill's movable base. While
one stud became hard to turn, none became stuck. It was the first one
that I welded. After some thinking, I realized that the decision to
weld along the whole length of the bar, was wrong. I welded the rest,
with four 1" long welds, along where the nuts are attached (most rigid
areas). Remaining ones were not stuck at all.

Then I used a 12" Starrett precision level to level the mill. The
level turned out to be very sensitive. After about 45 minutes, if not
more, I finally got the mill leveled. It was a "step forward, two
steps back" kind of procedure. But finally it worked.

At the end of leveling, I realized that the mill was only standing on
three legs, with the fourth not touching the ground. Very
embarrassing. I then slid a piece of paper inderneath that leg, and
gently lowered that leg to the point where the paper just became
firmly stuck underneath it.

I verified that the mill remained true.

i

Iggy

It look's good, but I was surprised to see the end of the adjustment screws
directly on the concrete rather than on some kind of steel pad.

I would worry that with just the end of the allthread resting on the
concrete and nothing to "spread the load" vibration during operation will
crush the concrete and you wil constantly be re-leveling. It looks like
there was some spalling just from the initial leveling, That may have been
part of the reason it took 45 minutes to level.

Carl Boyd

"Ignoramus7760" wrote in message
...
Updated pictures here


http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/

I welded those feet that I made, onto the mill's movable base. While
one stud became hard to turn, none became stuck. It was the first one
that I welded. After some thinking, I realized that the decision to
weld along the whole length of the bar, was wrong. I welded the rest,
with four 1" long welds, along where the nuts are attached (most rigid
areas). Remaining ones were not stuck at all.

Then I used a 12" Starrett precision level to level the mill. The
level turned out to be very sensitive. After about 45 minutes, if not
more, I finally got the mill leveled. It was a "step forward, two
steps back" kind of procedure. But finally it worked.

At the end of leveling, I realized that the mill was only standing on
three legs, with the fourth not touching the ground. Very
embarrassing. I then slid a piece of paper inderneath that leg, and
gently lowered that leg to the point where the paper just became
firmly stuck underneath it.

I verified that the mill remained true.

i

RCM only

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 00:08:28 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus7760 quickly quoth:

Updated pictures here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/

Those look solid enough, Ig. Hmm, why didn't you put rubber pads on
metal washers at the ends? Look what they're doing to the concrete
beneath them!

Feet could be made of rubber, nylon, UHMWPE, etc.

- Metaphors Be With You -

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 05:50:55 -0700, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
RCM only

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 00:08:28 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus7760 quickly quoth:

Updated pictures here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/

Those look solid enough, Ig. Hmm, why didn't you put rubber pads on
metal washers at the ends? Look what they're doing to the concrete
beneath them!

Feet could be made of rubber, nylon, UHMWPE, etc.

That's a good idea. I have a thick kitchen cutting board, that I cut
in pieces and use for its plastic, I could use it. Maybe today or in a
few days.

i

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 10:47:51 GMT, "Carl Boyd"
wrote:

I would worry that with just the end of the allthread resting on the
concrete and nothing to "spread the load" vibration during operation will
crush the concrete and you wil constantly be re-leveling. It looks like
there was some spalling just from the initial leveling, That may have been
part of the reason it took 45 minutes to level.

Carl Boyd


No pad? No...I didnt look at the pictures.

Pad is 100% necessary! 1/4" may not be thick enough as it may over
time turn into a bowl. 3/8" minimum strongly recommended, with a
shallow depression for the levelers to rest in.

Gunner

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:33:09 GMT, Gunner Asch wrote:
No pad? No...I didnt look at the pictures.

Pad is 100% necessary! 1/4" may not be thick enough as it may over
time turn into a bowl. 3/8" minimum strongly recommended, with a
shallow depression for the levelers to rest in.

Gunner, i will definitely put it on pads when I find something
suitable. I appreciate your word of wisdom.

i

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:10:31 -0500, Ignoramus23517
wrote:

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:33:09 GMT, Gunner Asch wrote:
No pad? No...I didnt look at the pictures.

Pad is 100% necessary! 1/4" may not be thick enough as it may over
time turn into a bowl. 3/8" minimum strongly recommended, with a
shallow depression for the levelers to rest in.

Gunner, i will definitely put it on pads when I find something
suitable. I appreciate your word of wisdom.

i

Just stuck some 3/8" plate under the levelers..they really dont need
to be more than 3"x3". Some misc. scrap would be hunky.

Gunner

I cut a "board" today for my weather station mounting. I selected
some of that fancy and expensive plastic deck material at Home Depot.

I used a thin carbide blade and did it make a mess. Cut very nice,
but instead of curls and powder of sawdust, the curls were plastic.

An 8' x 8" would go a long way in the shop as a semi long life product.

What I determined on this 'please use this and not Cedar or Redwood'
material - that costs twice or four times as much - not much incentive..

Now how about a large deck of this material - and the stacks of saw
shavings - that won't bio-degrade and is a mess to clean up.

Nice product for long life projects - 12 to 16" support needed but
I'll use up the other 7' somewhere.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Ignoramus23517 wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 05:50:55 -0700, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
RCM only

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 00:08:28 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus7760 quickly quoth:

Updated pictures here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/
Those look solid enough, Ig. Hmm, why didn't you put rubber pads on
metal washers at the ends? Look what they're doing to the concrete
beneath them!

Feet could be made of rubber, nylon, UHMWPE, etc.

That's a good idea. I have a thick kitchen cutting board, that I cut
in pieces and use for its plastic, I could use it. Maybe today or in a
few days.

i

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On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:10:31 -0500, Ignoramus23517
wrote:

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:33:09 GMT, Gunner Asch wrote:
No pad? No...I didnt look at the pictures.

Pad is 100% necessary! 1/4" may not be thick enough as it may over
time turn into a bowl. 3/8" minimum strongly recommended, with a
shallow depression for the levelers to rest in.

Gunner, i will definitely put it on pads when I find something
suitable. I appreciate your word of wisdom.

i

Actually you should put something between the pad and the floor to
ensure that the pad bears evenly. The big boys usually grout the
mounting pads in and we once used a felt like material that went
between the floor and the pad but probably a thin sheet of rubber
would work.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

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