I think I'd rather push a button than turn a 40" dia handhweel 30 or
40 revolutions when I want to go for a boatride.

http://users.goldengate.net/~dforeman/boatlift/

Neat project.

If you don't want to wait for the counter sink, drill that 5/16 hole out to
your countersink (3/4") diameter for just a little way. Then sharpen your
drill bit flat like a two flute endmill, just do it free hand. My
proceedure is to just grind the whole end flat, then give a couple degrees
cutting relief to the drill flutes.

Finish drilling to countersink depth. I've ended up with a whole set of
these flat drill bits.

--
(©¿©) An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
Two apples a day gets the doctor's OK.
Five a day makes you a fruit grower like me.

Karl Townsend

Karl Townsend wrote:

Neat project.

If you don't want to wait for the counter sink, drill that 5/16 hole out to
your countersink (3/4") diameter for just a little way. Then sharpen your
drill bit flat like a two flute endmill, just do it free hand. My
proceedure is to just grind the whole end flat, then give a couple degrees
cutting relief to the drill flutes.

Finish drilling to countersink depth. I've ended up with a whole set of
these flat drill bits.

It's quicker to start out with a whole set, eg
http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...yword=forstner
Forstner bits like these work fine in aluminum.
-jiw

On Sun, 28 May 2006 05:12:05 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
remove .NOT wrote:

Neat project.

If you don't want to wait for the counter sink, drill that 5/16 hole out to
your countersink (3/4") diameter for just a little way. Then sharpen your
drill bit flat like a two flute endmill, just do it free hand. My
proceedure is to just grind the whole end flat, then give a couple degrees
cutting relief to the drill flutes.

Finish drilling to countersink depth. I've ended up with a whole set of
these flat drill bits.

I think that's counterbore rather than countersink, Karl. I have a
collection of thus-modified drills as well. I needed to c'sink for
a flathead bolt here because the 1/4" steel plate isn't much thicker
than the head thickness of the 5/16-13 flat head socket screws. Hadda
use flatheads because protruding bolt heads would interfere with the
mounting arm.

C'sink arrived, the bearing support is plated, painted, lubed and
assembled to the motor/gearbox housing.

Then I spent a day helping SIL do some wiring and today I gotta fix my
trolling motor....

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
I think I'd rather push a button than turn a 40" dia handhweel 30 or
40 revolutions when I want to go for a boatride.

http://users.goldengate.net/~dforeman/boatlift/

I really don't like the color of the gearmotor, you'd better paint it the
same as in the model.

On Sun, 28 May 2006 05:12:05 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
remove .NOT wrote:

Neat project.

If you don't want to wait for the counter sink, drill that 5/16 hole out to
your countersink (3/4") diameter for just a little way. Then sharpen your
drill bit flat like a two flute endmill, just do it free hand. My
proceedure is to just grind the whole end flat, then give a couple degrees
cutting relief to the drill flutes.

Finish drilling to countersink depth. I've ended up with a whole set of
these flat drill bits.


Or run in an endmill. Once the hole has been drilled..even a 4 flute
makes a nice flat bottom hole in a drill press.

Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Sun, 28 May 2006 16:21:10 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


"Don Foreman" wrote in message
.. .
I think I'd rather push a button than turn a 40" dia handhweel 30 or
40 revolutions when I want to go for a boatride.

http://users.goldengate.net/~dforeman/boatlift/

I really don't like the color of the gearmotor, you'd better paint it the
same as in the model.

You're a sweetie, Tom, but we've talked about this before. Your
lavendar leotards are SO hard to match. And then, asking me to
machine sequins out of 6061 and then anodize them lavender was SO
over the top!

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 28 May 2006 16:21:10 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


"Don Foreman" wrote in message
. ..
I think I'd rather push a button than turn a 40" dia handhweel 30 or
40 revolutions when I want to go for a boatride.

http://users.goldengate.net/~dforeman/boatlift/

I really don't like the color of the gearmotor, you'd better paint it the
same as in the model.

You're a sweetie, Tom, but we've talked about this before. Your
lavendar leotards are SO hard to match. And then, asking me to
machine sequins out of 6061 and then anodize them lavender was SO
over the top!

I'll bet you already have something to take to the paint store for them to
match-up...don't forget the pearl! Use Slick-50 grease for contrast.