Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Louis Ohland
 
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Default Work and holder weight limits for Grizzly G0463 mill (Sieg X3 SmallMill)

I finally got a definite answer from Grizzly as to the maximum
combined workpiece/workholder weight for the G0463. Approximately 100
pounds.

Knowing that, I might have ruled out the H7506 index table at the
start (128lbs).

I have noticed the Grizzly H7527 6" Rotary Table w/ Div. Plates
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7527

Table diameter is about 5.9", height is 3.9", weight 26 pounds.
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Louis Ohland
 
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Default Work and holder weight limits for Grizzly G0463 mill (Sieg X3Small Mill)

My model was without the gas strut for the head. It goes down easy,
but up takes more moxie. I wish someone would post a retrofit on adding
the strut. The column saddle was drilled and tapped for the bolt to
fasten the strut to it. It isn't he-man to go up, but it could be easier.

Surprised on the general level of fit and finish. I have seen
mention of oil passages being clogged, but on mine, all passages were
unpainted and had a little ball detent to keep it closed. Beware of the
dovetail areas. They did not break the edges, and you may find out what
weight plus a tiny bit of motion can do.

If you have to disassemble it, the retention clip on the cross ways
(in/out) is truly sh*t, and once you open it with snap-ring pliers, it
will stay open. I used a Hillman 1/2 inch ring from Ace when I
reassembled it. A bit loose, but if you keep whanging away on the
handwheel when it hits the stop, then you get what you asked for. I
think the proper fit is 11.35mm, but a 1/2 inch is close.

I got mine through Grizzly, and either they cleaned it up before
shipping, or Sieg has a fairly clean shop. I did find cast iron chips
between the head and the dovetail plate that it mounts to.

Please follow the spindle break-in procedure prior to use. The gear
noise at first was a "knocking" sound and I wondered a bit. In low
range, 10 minutes at low, then 10 minutes at medium, then 10 minutes at
high. Power off. Set gear range to high. Repeat speed and time. Really
quiets it down.

The emergency stop button arrangement is a bit confusing at first.
After looking at the circuit schematic, it dawned on me that the FWD /
REV switch acts as the on / off, while the main bower switch at the
bottom is for killing all power.

To start, make sure the emergency stop button is out. If it was
pressed, twist it and it should pop out. Both power and direction
switches need to be "OFF" [direction switch is the center position].

Then turn POWER "ON" and then the direction switch to the desired
direction. Mill should start. Note that the rotary switch needs to be at
least a quarter turn into the arc before the mill starts to turn.

If the power and fault lights are on, try turning power and
direction off, then back on.

I still have to get some workholding stuff, some parallels, 1-2-3
blocks, yada, yada, yada. Still have some rewiring to do in the basement
for my dad's lathe.

Elton wrote:
On Thu, 18 May 2006 12:10:04 -0500, Louis Ohland
wrote:

I finally got a definite answer from Grizzly as to the maximum
combined workpiece/workholder weight for the G0463. Approximately 100
pounds.


Thanks for posting this, Louis. I'm considering purchasing one of these
mills and this info will help when buying accessories.

BTW, how do you like the mill? Any surprises?



Elton

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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Louis Ohland
 
Posts: n/a
Default Work and holder weight limits for Grizzly G0463 mill (Sieg X3Small Mill)

If you will be disassembling it, take off the lower sheetmetal plate
on the column shield and remove the two groundscrews from the controller
board out of the column. Easier to remove the motor and shield at the
same time. Now the saddle is exposed, along with the four mounting bolts
for the column to attach to the base.

Popping the head is a rush, but I did it by lowering it down onto
two edgewise 2x4s on top of the table. Undo the 4 bolds holding the head
to the vertical way plate, and pry the head forward [carefully!].

If you want to take 'er down all the way, ask.

Louis Ohland wrote:
My model was without the gas strut for the head. It goes down easy,
but up takes more moxie. I wish someone would post a retrofit on adding
the strut. The column saddle was drilled and tapped for the bolt to
fasten the strut to it. It isn't he-man to go up, but it could be easier.

Surprised on the general level of fit and finish. I have seen mention
of oil passages being clogged, but on mine, all passages were unpainted
and had a little ball detent to keep it closed. Beware of the dovetail
areas. They did not break the edges, and you may find out what weight
plus a tiny bit of motion can do.

If you have to disassemble it, the retention clip on the cross ways
(in/out) is truly sh*t, and once you open it with snap-ring pliers, it
will stay open. I used a Hillman 1/2 inch ring from Ace when I
reassembled it. A bit loose, but if you keep whanging away on the
handwheel when it hits the stop, then you get what you asked for. I
think the proper fit is 11.35mm, but a 1/2 inch is close.

I got mine through Grizzly, and either they cleaned it up before
shipping, or Sieg has a fairly clean shop. I did find cast iron chips
between the head and the dovetail plate that it mounts to.

Please follow the spindle break-in procedure prior to use. The gear
noise at first was a "knocking" sound and I wondered a bit. In low
range, 10 minutes at low, then 10 minutes at medium, then 10 minutes at
high. Power off. Set gear range to high. Repeat speed and time. Really
quiets it down.

The emergency stop button arrangement is a bit confusing at first.
After looking at the circuit schematic, it dawned on me that the FWD /
REV switch acts as the on / off, while the main bower switch at the
bottom is for killing all power.

To start, make sure the emergency stop button is out. If it was
pressed, twist it and it should pop out. Both power and direction
switches need to be "OFF" [direction switch is the center position].

Then turn POWER "ON" and then the direction switch to the desired
direction. Mill should start. Note that the rotary switch needs to be at
least a quarter turn into the arc before the mill starts to turn.

If the power and fault lights are on, try turning power and direction
off, then back on.

I still have to get some workholding stuff, some parallels, 1-2-3
blocks, yada, yada, yada. Still have some rewiring to do in the basement
for my dad's lathe.

Elton wrote:
On Thu, 18 May 2006 12:10:04 -0500, Louis Ohland
wrote:

I finally got a definite answer from Grizzly as to the maximum
combined workpiece/workholder weight for the G0463. Approximately 100
pounds.


Thanks for posting this, Louis. I'm considering purchasing one of these
mills and this info will help when buying accessories.

BTW, how do you like the mill? Any surprises?



Elton

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