Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Posted to alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking
F. George McDuffee
 
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Default GCode for Chess Pieces

On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:09:48 GMT, "BoxMaker"
wrote:

Looking for code for a standard chess set using a V-Mill.

========================
If you can supply some more information it would be helpful.

(1) Do you want to make the entire 32 piece chess set or just
selected pieces such as the king or knight?

(2) How large are the pieces you want to make? Typically
specified by the height/base of the queen.

(3) What materials are you planning on using?

(4) Is this a "one off" or you planning for semi-series
production?

(5) Does your v-mill have a rotary table [a axis] or are you
going to generate the curves using xy moves? If a rotary table,
is the vertical or horizontal? Does your controller support G2/G3
arcs or only G1? Is your controller 2_1/2 or 3 d?

(6) The "standard" chess set is generally assumed to be the
Staunton. This was developed for easy turning in wood on a manual
lathe with some manual second operations such as the crenelations
on the rook, slotting the bishop, and sculpting the knight's
[horses head] after the profile was turned. Given that the
process and most likely the material is very different, you may
wish to consider a chess set designed for CNC machining center
[mill] production.

(7) Before I retired, I taught some basic CNC classes. We used a
Denford ORAC cnc lathe. In the ORAC instructional material was a
program for the queen and a pawn. Denford USA email includes




They may be able to supply you with a copy of the printed
documentation. Be advised that the ORAC G/M codes are not in
standard format and will most likely required re
inputting/translitteration for your controller.

(8) Do you have access to a CAD program? If so, can you
read/save dwg or dxf files? If you can run Autocad LISP macros,
there are a number of free macros that use the snap commands to
locate, and will generate a leader line with the xy or xyz
coordinates such as the centers/endpoints of arcs, arc radius,
endpoints of lines that will make manual cnc programming the
proverbial "piece of cake."

(9) If you are going to make several pieces, fixturing may be a
bigger challenge than the programming.

(10) for chess sets see:
http://www.chesscentral.com/sets-pie...n-chessmen.htm
http://store.convekta.com/shop_model...&sView=Catalog
(and about 100k more)


Unka George
(George McDuffee)

There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy
which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for generations;
even a democrat like myself must admit this.

But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy,
for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the "money touch,"
but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many glorified pawnbrokers.

Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive) politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.
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Posted to alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking
Cliff
 
Posts: n/a
Default GCode for Chess Pieces

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 13:33:55 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

(10) for chess sets see:
http://www.chesscentral.com/sets-pie...n-chessmen.htm
http://store.convekta.com/shop_model...&sView=Catalog
(and about 100k more)


An amazing variety:
http://www.google.com/search?num=100...22&btnG=Search
http://www.drueke.com/ are fairly common.

Always wanted a $$ carved stone set .. too expensive & fragile though.
Don't play anymore sigh.
--
Cliff
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BoxMaker
 
Posts: n/a
Default GCode for Chess Pieces

Thanks for the info I'm glad there are few good machinist still out there to
help us hobbist. I have access to a Hitachi Seiki CA250 if I can get the
Fanuc error 930 on the controller reset. Wanted to make a couple of large
Chess pieces for a Salt and Pepper shakers as X-mas gifts. I plan on Alum
6061 or what ever Alum drops I have laying around.

"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:09:48 GMT, "BoxMaker"
wrote:

Looking for code for a standard chess set using a V-Mill.

========================
If you can supply some more information it would be helpful.

(1) Do you want to make the entire 32 piece chess set or just
selected pieces such as the king or knight?

(2) How large are the pieces you want to make? Typically
specified by the height/base of the queen.

(3) What materials are you planning on using?

(4) Is this a "one off" or you planning for semi-series
production?

(5) Does your v-mill have a rotary table [a axis] or are you
going to generate the curves using xy moves? If a rotary table,
is the vertical or horizontal? Does your controller support G2/G3
arcs or only G1? Is your controller 2_1/2 or 3 d?

(6) The "standard" chess set is generally assumed to be the
Staunton. This was developed for easy turning in wood on a manual
lathe with some manual second operations such as the crenelations
on the rook, slotting the bishop, and sculpting the knight's
[horses head] after the profile was turned. Given that the
process and most likely the material is very different, you may
wish to consider a chess set designed for CNC machining center
[mill] production.

(7) Before I retired, I taught some basic CNC classes. We used a
Denford ORAC cnc lathe. In the ORAC instructional material was a
program for the queen and a pawn. Denford USA email includes




They may be able to supply you with a copy of the printed
documentation. Be advised that the ORAC G/M codes are not in
standard format and will most likely required re
inputting/translitteration for your controller.

(8) Do you have access to a CAD program? If so, can you
read/save dwg or dxf files? If you can run Autocad LISP macros,
there are a number of free macros that use the snap commands to
locate, and will generate a leader line with the xy or xyz
coordinates such as the centers/endpoints of arcs, arc radius,
endpoints of lines that will make manual cnc programming the
proverbial "piece of cake."

(9) If you are going to make several pieces, fixturing may be a
bigger challenge than the programming.

(10) for chess sets see:
http://www.chesscentral.com/sets-pie...n-chessmen.htm
http://store.convekta.com/shop_model...&sView=Catalog
(and about 100k more)


Unka George
(George McDuffee)

There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy
which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for

generations;
even a democrat like myself must admit this.

But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy,
for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the

"money touch,"
but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many

glorified pawnbrokers.

Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive)

politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.



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D Murphy
 
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Default GCode for Chess Pieces

"BoxMaker" wrote in news:6Jy4g.70835
:

I have access to a Hitachi Seiki CA250 if I can get the
Fanuc error 930 on the controller reset.


Sounds like you need a new motherboard. IIRC, a 930 alarm means the CPU is
forked.

--

Dan

Quid Aere Perennius
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Posted to alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking
Cliff
 
Posts: n/a
Default GCode for Chess Pieces

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 00:48:02 GMT, "BoxMaker"
wrote:

Wanted to make a couple of large
Chess pieces for a Salt and Pepper shakers as X-mas gifts.


Why not make salt & pepper shakers?

I plan on Alum
6061 or what ever Alum drops I have laying around.


An odd tidbit: "Aluminum in food is a health hazard
and has been associated with Alzheimer's disease."
--
Cliff


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Posted to alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking
F. George McDuffee
 
Posts: n/a
Default GCode for Chess Pieces

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 00:48:02 GMT, "BoxMaker"
wrote:

Thanks for the info I'm glad there are few good machinist still out there to
help us hobbist. I have access to a Hitachi Seiki CA250 if I can get the
Fanuc error 930 on the controller reset. Wanted to make a couple of large
Chess pieces for a Salt and Pepper shakers as X-mas gifts. I plan on Alum
6061 or what ever Alum drops I have laying around.

===========================================

Several thoughts:

(1) large as in what diameter of base and how high/tall.

(2) Unless you are going for ornate pieces rather than the
standard stauton pattern, this is far more of a lathe than
mill/machining center project, although it can be done.

(3) Which particular chess piece(s) are you thinking of
machining? For the internal volume, the rook/castle would seem
to be the best choice.

(4) Do you have access to a lathe to drill/machine out the large
center cavity, and tap the bottom?

(5) Given the wide use of aluminum in cook ware, I doubt that the
amount of aluminum you might pick up from the salt shakers would
add any significant risk, assuming one exists.

(6) Because the plugs in the bottom of salt/pepper shapers always
seem to get lost over time, and because of the thread gauling
factor, your best bet would appear to be to use a course standard
thread such an NPT and use a plastic pipe plug for the closure.
While these can be difficult to find, these are available in NPTS
[short] configuration with several types of drives hex / slot ].
These are frequently used as shipping seals, so you may be able
to get a few at an equipment dealer.

(7) If you must machine the shakers completely on the CA250 what
is the vertical travel and maximum distance from the spindle nose
to the table?

(8) What fixturing and tools do you have available? For example,
do you have a helical thread mill tool?

(9) What is the largest tool the spindle/tool holder the CA250
will accept, and what is the biggest collet you have?

(10) It is likely that the fixturing and sequence of operations
will be more of a challenge than the actual marching of the
shakers, and is likely to take 3 or 4 times as long.

(11) Without knowing more about the size of the shakers and the
vertical travel/space of the machining center, I envision a
process something like this

(a) Cut shaker to stock to approximate length.

(b) Use large v-block bolted to table to blank is vertical, and
face off.

(c) Reverse blank in above setup and machine to exact length.

(d) Pick up center of blank and machine salt cavity, tap for NPTS
thread using your choice of tap guide/tap, thread mill etc.

(e) Reverse blank in above set up, drill "P" for pepper or "S"
for salt in top. Assuming that your are doing the rook/castle,
change from a drill to an end mill, counterbore the top and mill
the crenelations.

(f) Thread blank onto arbor/spud. Generally is not a good idea
to rely on threads for accurate positioning, so you may have a
stepped arbor where the location is from the bore and the threads
are only to hold the blank on the arbor. You may want to use a
strap wrench to avoid surface damage.

(g) Clamp the arbor/spud in the CA250 spindle/tool holder. Shank
of arbor/spud should be as large as will fit. At this point you
will be using the Machining Center as a lathe.

(h) Clamp a suitable size angle plate to the table and clamp a
contouring lathe tool to the angle plate. This will be much
harder that setting up the tool in a lathe, and you will to be
very careful to get the correct rake/lead/etc.

(i) Pick up the center of the blank on the spud in the spindle
and the tool tip that you have clamped to the right angle plate.
Calculate offsets as required.

(j) Load the cnc program you have written, being especially
careful with tool offsets and diameter compensation. A very
common problem is verifying correct direction of spindle
rotation. Note that you want the rotation/cutting action like a
lathe to avoid backing the blank off the arbor/spud. Most likely
with producing only a few parts, it will be easier to manually
move the table [over or shift table zero in the program] and
repeatedly run it that it will be to program multiple tool passes
to complete the part in a single program.

(k) Use a strap wrench or other non-marring method to remove the
completed part, and install the next blank. Be sure to return
the table to the correct starting point or reset program zero
shift.

Note that with a full sized marching center you can adapt the
gang turn principal used on some cnc lathes, and effectively
"change" tools, for example you can also mount a grooving/cutoff
tool or knurling tool. It all depends how elaborate you want to
get in the fixturing/tooling. After this exercise, I think you
will understand why both cnc lathe and mill/maching centers
exist.

First thing to do is create a cad drawing of your desired chess
piece(s).

Good luck on your project and let us know how you make out.




Unka George
(George McDuffee)

There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy
which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for generations;
even a democrat like myself must admit this.

But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy,
for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the "money touch,"
but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many glorified pawnbrokers.

Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive) politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.
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Cliff
 
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Default GCode for Chess Pieces

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 16:49:39 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

(5) Given the wide use of aluminum in cook ware, I doubt that the
amount of aluminum you might pick up from the salt shakers would
add any significant risk, assuming one exists.


True, but the Aluminum connection to disease was interesting.
--
Cliff
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