Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
or foot pedal control? Planning on buying the Miller Dynasty 200DX,
but need to determine to buy fingertip or foot pedal control.

Thanks!

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

On 6 Mar 2004 18:10:21 -0800, (Luds) wrote:

===Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
===or foot pedal control? Planning on buying the Miller Dynasty 200DX,
===but need to determine to buy fingertip or foot pedal control.
===
===Thanks!

In my opinion, both have pros and cons. If your gonna be welding
mostly at a bench go with a foot control. If its out of positon go
fingertip. I like foot control the best. I seem to be able to control
the torch better with my foot, even if reaching for it in an awkward
positon than I can with using a control on the torch. Of course lots
of times I wind up setting on the floor and the foot control use
there sucks.......


Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wifes,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

From: (Luds)

Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
or foot pedal control?

I think that learning is easier with a foot pedal. You have a lot to learn
with hand technique without the added problem of controlling heat with a
fingertip control.
Foot pedals are also more roubust and are intuitive to use. Just like the gas
pedal on a car. They work well for most welding situations but there are some
places where they can be very clumsy, difficult or downright impossible to use.
Welding while lying on you back, in really confined places or on a ladder are
some of the places where a fingertip control is the best way to go. Start with
a pedal then get the hand control.

Richard Coke

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

"Richard Coke" wrote in message
...
From: (Luds)

Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
or foot pedal control?

I think that learning is easier with a foot pedal. You have a lot to
learn
with hand technique without the added problem of controlling heat with a
fingertip control.
Foot pedals are also more roubust and are intuitive to use. Just like the
gas
pedal on a car. They work well for most welding situations but there are
some
places where they can be very clumsy, difficult or downright impossible to
use.
Welding while lying on you back, in really confined places or on a ladder
are
some of the places where a fingertip control is the best way to go. Start
with
a pedal then get the hand control.

Richard Coke


I would agree with Richard on this. I couldn't image trying to learn TIG via
fingertip control. There is a lot going on in the hand coordination arena.

Lane

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

Luds wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
or foot pedal control? Planning on buying the Miller Dynasty 200DX,
but need to determine to buy fingertip or foot pedal control.

I tried both when I first got my TIG and settled on torch mounted slider
rather than a foot peddle. This was a0 years a go and I'm still glad I
went that route.

Ted

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

In article , Luds
wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
or foot pedal control? Planning on buying the Miller Dynasty 200DX,
but need to determine to buy fingertip or foot pedal control.

Thanks!


Start with the footpedal.
It is a bit easier to learn with, and is very useful for bench work.
It can be used to trigger the sequencer as well, but is not so good for
"out of position" welding, such as when your head is jammed under a car
while you repair an exhaust pipe.

The Dynasty 200DX comes with a sequencer built in.
To best use this you will eventually want a simple button contactor.
Not a slider or roller amptrol, just a button.
The button is used to trigger the sequencer.
First tap starts the sequence, second tap stops the sequence.

You can build your own one-button contactor for about $30.

I have them on all my torches, both for my Mastar 200DX Inverter and my
Syncrowave 250DX.

Sequencers make sheet metal seams much easier.

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

Thank you for the replies!

May I also ask opinion on recommended setup? I need something
portable, and I am looking at the below setup for welding sheetmetal
to repair auto body/parts and would like to build a aluminum bicycle
frame:

Miller Dynasty 200DX

Miller Contractor Kit
Protective Case with carrying handle, DB1725R (25 ft) TIG torch,
RFCS-14 HD foot control, International Style Torch Adapters,
Regulator/Flowmeter, 200A Electrode Holder with 15 ft cable, 300A Work
Clamp with 15 ft cable, 12 ft Gas Hose, AK-2 Torch accessory kit, Gas
hose coupler.

40cu ft tank w/ Argon (Rent or buy???)

Tungsten electrodes

Tig welding gloves? I have thick gloves for arc welding... Also have
auto darkening helmet.

Thanks,

Luds

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote in message ...
In article , Luds
wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
or foot pedal control? Planning on buying the Miller Dynasty 200DX,
but need to determine to buy fingertip or foot pedal control.

Thanks!


Start with the footpedal.
It is a bit easier to learn with, and is very useful for bench work.
It can be used to trigger the sequencer as well, but is not so good for
"out of position" welding, such as when your head is jammed under a car
while you repair an exhaust pipe.

The Dynasty 200DX comes with a sequencer built in.
To best use this you will eventually want a simple button contactor.
Not a slider or roller amptrol, just a button.
The button is used to trigger the sequencer.
First tap starts the sequence, second tap stops the sequence.

You can build your own one-button contactor for about $30.

I have them on all my torches, both for my Mastar 200DX Inverter and my
Syncrowave 250DX.

Sequencers make sheet metal seams much easier.

I'll have to read up on the sequencer. Is this feature built-in to any
of the tourch add-ons? How did you build your one-button contactor?

Thanks,

Luds

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

Are there cheaper kits or configurations other than this one offered
by Miller, or is this a good deal at $530ish?

Miller Contractor Kit with RFCS-14HD ALL-IN-ONE Accessory Kit

Kit includes: Protective Case with carrying handle, DB1725R (25 ft)
TIG torch, RFCS-14 HD foot control, International Style Torch
Adapters, Regulator/Flowmeter, 200A Electrode Holder with 15 ft cable,
300A Work Clamp with 15 ft cable, 12 ft Gas Hose, AK-2 Torch accessory
kit, Gas hose coupler.
===============================

Here is another setup for about $500 with the RFCS-14HD foot control
added. This better way to go? Do you recommedn 150Amp torch instead of
the 200Amp torch? Thanks...

200 Amp Air-Cooled TIG Torch Pkg.200 Amp Air-Cooled starter set comes
complete with:
Diamondback DB26R 200A, 25-foot TIG Torch
Argon Flowmeter/Regulator
10' Gas hose
15' Ground cable with clamp
TIG power block adapter
TIG spare parts accessory kit
TIG welding handbook

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

In article , Luds
wrote:

Thank you for the replies!

May I also ask opinion on recommended setup? I need something
portable, and I am looking at the below setup for welding sheetmetal
to repair auto body/parts and would like to build a aluminum bicycle
frame:

Miller Dynasty 200DX

Miller Contractor Kit
Protective Case with carrying handle, DB1725R (25 ft) TIG torch,
RFCS-14 HD foot control, International Style Torch Adapters,
Regulator/Flowmeter, 200A Electrode Holder with 15 ft cable, 300A Work
Clamp with 15 ft cable, 12 ft Gas Hose, AK-2 Torch accessory kit, Gas
hose coupler.

40cu ft tank w/ Argon (Rent or buy???)

Tungsten electrodes

Tig welding gloves? I have thick gloves for arc welding... Also have
auto darkening helmet.

Thanks,

Luds


For what you want to do I feel the Thermal Arc Prowave 185TSW is the
better machine, and is about $1000 cheaper than the Miller Dynasty
200DX.

The Thermal arc machine comes complete ready to go.
The Miller machine requires you to pay an additional amount for the
contractor kit.

$1700 versus $2700.

Listen I love Miller machines.
I have owned a series of them, and have 2 now, but...the Thermal Arc
Prowave 185TSW is just too good of a deal to pass up.
It does most of what the Dynasty does, and only penalizes you 15 amps
at the top end.

The one really good reason to buy the Dynasty is if you intend to do a
lot of field welding in different locations and need to be able to
operate off of any power available.

That is the main reason I love my Miller Maxstar 200DX and have for 3
years now.
I do a lot of field work, and I never know what voltage will be
available.
Miller's Autoline technology doesn't care.
As long as the power is somewhere between 100 and 500 volts, single or
3 phase, it works.

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

In article , Luds
wrote:

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote in message
...
In article , Luds
wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation to learn TIG welding with fingertip
or foot pedal control? Planning on buying the Miller Dynasty 200DX,
but need to determine to buy fingertip or foot pedal control.

Thanks!


Start with the footpedal.
It is a bit easier to learn with, and is very useful for bench work.
It can be used to trigger the sequencer as well, but is not so good for
"out of position" welding, such as when your head is jammed under a car
while you repair an exhaust pipe.

The Dynasty 200DX comes with a sequencer built in.
To best use this you will eventually want a simple button contactor.
Not a slider or roller amptrol, just a button.
The button is used to trigger the sequencer.
First tap starts the sequence, second tap stops the sequence.

You can build your own one-button contactor for about $30.

I have them on all my torches, both for my Mastar 200DX Inverter and my
Syncrowave 250DX.

Sequencers make sheet metal seams much easier.

I'll have to read up on the sequencer. Is this feature built-in to any
of the tourch add-ons? How did you build your one-button contactor?

Thanks,

Luds

I went to a welding repair shop and bought a standard replacement
button for plasma cutter torches, for $15.
It is a small low profile rubber armored button.
I then went to a electronics supplier and bought the correct Amphenol
connector for my Miller , for $15.
All I needed then was 25 feet of shielded 2 conductor wire, about $2.

The wire and switch need to be insulated because of the high frequency
leakage along the power cable.
If you don't insulate the wire and switch you can get a nasty shock off
the button.

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

In article , Luds
wrote:

Are there cheaper kits or configurations other than this one offered
by Miller, or is this a good deal at $530ish?

Miller Contractor Kit with RFCS-14HD ALL-IN-ONE Accessory Kit

Kit includes: Protective Case with carrying handle, DB1725R (25 ft)
TIG torch, RFCS-14 HD foot control, International Style Torch
Adapters, Regulator/Flowmeter, 200A Electrode Holder with 15 ft cable,
300A Work Clamp with 15 ft cable, 12 ft Gas Hose, AK-2 Torch accessory
kit, Gas hose coupler.
===============================

Here is another setup for about $500 with the RFCS-14HD foot control
added. This better way to go? Do you recommedn 150Amp torch instead of
the 200Amp torch? Thanks...

200 Amp Air-Cooled TIG Torch Pkg.200 Amp Air-Cooled starter set comes
complete with:
Diamondback DB26R 200A, 25-foot TIG Torch
Argon Flowmeter/Regulator
10' Gas hose
15' Ground cable with clamp
TIG power block adapter
TIG spare parts accessory kit
TIG welding handbook


If you plan on doing a lot of heavy aluminum, the larger torch will
last longer before getting hot, but honestly if you really get into
doing a lot of aluminum, you will want to set up a water cooled torch.

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

From: Ernie Leimkuhler

honestly if you really get into
doing a lot of aluminum, you will want to set up a water cooled torch.


This is very true. In fact I'd recommend that you get a water cooled torch to
begin with if you possibly can. Use it for all your bench/shop welding and only
use a gas cooled torch in the field. The cooling water can be supplied by the
city or from a water cooling tank/pump unit. Water cooled torches are much
more comfortable to use for extended periods of time and are easier to use in
confined places since they are smaller for a given amp capacity.

Richard Coke

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

Richard Coke wrote:
From: Ernie Leimkuhler


honestly if you really get into
doing a lot of aluminum, you will want to set up a water cooled torch.



This is very true. In fact I'd recommend that you get a water cooled torch to
begin with if you possibly can. Use it for all your bench/shop welding and only
use a gas cooled torch in the field. The cooling water can be supplied by the
city or from a water cooling tank/pump unit. Water cooled torches are much
more comfortable to use for extended periods of time and are easier to use in
confined places since they are smaller for a given amp capacity.

Richard Coke




How much bulk and weight does water cooling add to the torch and hose ?

Ken Cutt

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

In article , Ken Cutt
wrote:

Richard Coke wrote:
From: Ernie Leimkuhler


honestly if you really get into
doing a lot of aluminum, you will want to set up a water cooled torch.



This is very true. In fact I'd recommend that you get a water cooled torch
to
begin with if you possibly can. Use it for all your bench/shop welding and
only
use a gas cooled torch in the field. The cooling water can be supplied by
the
city or from a water cooling tank/pump unit. Water cooled torches are much
more comfortable to use for extended periods of time and are easier to use
in
confined places since they are smaller for a given amp capacity.

Richard Coke




How much bulk and weight does water cooling add to the torch and hose ?

Ken Cutt


None.
It ends up about the same.
Air cooled torch cables have to be made larger to deal with the heat.
Water cooled torch cables can be smaller because of the water cooling.

The water-in line, and gas line are seperate, and the water-out line is
the power conductor.
So three smaller cables instead of one larger gas-power line.

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

From: Ken Cutt

How much bulk and weight does water cooling add to the torch and hose ?


A water cooled torch is smaller than an equivalent gas cooled one. I have one
water cooled torch from CNI that I really like that is very compact. The
hoses are about the same. The power conductor is smaller because it is cooled
by the water flow out of the head but you have additional lines for the water
and gas supply. The gas hose is less than 1/4" OD the water supply and power
lead/water return are slightly over 1/4" OD for a 200 A torch. I use a heat
resistant sleeve over mine because I have paid the price for not using one. In
terms of overall bulk and stiffness in the hose set it's about the same as for
a gas cooled cable but the torch is much more comfortable to use. When I had a
shop in Brooklyn the welders had cooling units on them that ran when the welder
was on but now I just have a home shop with one welder and I use house water
run through the solenoid valve and the drain waters my garden or trees The
flow rate is around a pint per minute IIRC. In my opinion water cooled is the
only way to go unless you just absolutely can't get water to the welder.

Richard Coke

Fingertip or foot pedal tig?
 

Richard Coke wrote:
From: Ken Cutt


How much bulk and weight does water cooling add to the torch and hose ?



A water cooled torch is smaller than an equivalent gas cooled one. I have one
water cooled torch from CNI that I really like that is very compact. The
hoses are about the same. The power conductor is smaller because it is cooled
by the water flow out of the head but you have additional lines for the water
and gas supply. The gas hose is less than 1/4" OD the water supply and power
lead/water return are slightly over 1/4" OD for a 200 A torch. I use a heat
resistant sleeve over mine because I have paid the price for not using one. In
terms of overall bulk and stiffness in the hose set it's about the same as for
a gas cooled cable but the torch is much more comfortable to use. When I had a
shop in Brooklyn the welders had cooling units on them that ran when the welder
was on but now I just have a home shop with one welder and I use house water
run through the solenoid valve and the drain waters my garden or trees The
flow rate is around a pint per minute IIRC. In my opinion water cooled is the
only way to go unless you just absolutely can't get water to the welder.

Richard Coke




Pays to ask . I would have thought exactly the opposite otherwise
Ken Cutt