Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one of
the sides. The last one of these I made took hours with itsy-bitsy
(technical term) files and emery paper. I have a "Round-over" end mill with
a 1/2" radius but I've never seen one that small. Do they exist? I DID
Google and looked at catalogs for all the usual mill suppliers. I could
make it in two parts but that would be a wash, time wise.

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
m...
Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one of
the sides. The last one of these I made took hours with itsy-bitsy
(technical term) files and emery paper. I have a "Round-over" end mill
with a 1/2" radius but I've never seen one that small. Do they exist? I
DID Google and looked at catalogs for all the usual mill suppliers. I
could make it in two parts but that would be a wash, time wise.

How many do you need to make? Do the rads have to be true and without any
sharp edges, or are they only cosmetic? How close to 1/16" do they have to
be?

I'd use a die grinder, then stone, then emery cloth/paper. 5 minutes max.
start to finish (per rad). This is assuming you cannot find an appropriate
radius cutter and/or need a true rad with a good surface finish.

Regards,

Robin

You could take an old end mill, cut away al but one of the flutes then hand
grind the 1/16 r in the remaining flute aking it a single point cutter. A
little time consuming, but faster than hand work.

--
J Miller
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
m...
Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one of
the sides. The last one of these I made took hours with itsy-bitsy
(technical term) files and emery paper. I have a "Round-over" end mill
with a 1/2" radius but I've never seen one that small. Do they exist? I
DID Google and looked at catalogs for all the usual mill suppliers. I
could make it in two parts but that would be a wash, time wise.

On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 02:52:07 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one of
the sides. The last one of these I made took hours with itsy-bitsy
(technical term) files and emery paper. I have a "Round-over" end mill with
a 1/2" radius but I've never seen one that small. Do they exist? I DID
Google and looked at catalogs for all the usual mill suppliers. I could
make it in two parts but that would be a wash, time wise.

let me check my Stuff..may have one

Gunner, who just finished putting the tranny (new throwout bearing and
slave (wrapped around the pilot shaft..and pilot bearing) back in his
truck..and no..the grease and hammer trick didnt work..damnit

Gunner

"I think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism.
As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural
patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief
in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous Usenet Racist

Tom Gardner wrote:

Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one of
the sides. The last one of these I made took hours with itsy-bitsy
(technical term) files and emery paper. I have a "Round-over" end mill with
a 1/2" radius but I've never seen one that small. Do they exist? I DID
Google and looked at catalogs for all the usual mill suppliers. I could
make it in two parts but that would be a wash, time wise.

A 1/16 round over end mill should be a stock size. I know for a fact
that we have about six or 7 of them in our cutter bin at work.

You might be best off just phoning a (relatively) local supplier and
asking, but MSC will probably have them.

Lesse....
McMaster Carr item 3067A11 in hss, 2790A71 in cobalt steel. Pg.2249 in
cat #107 So these numbers may or may not be any good.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

"Trevor Jones" wrote in message
...
Tom Gardner wrote:

Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one
of
the sides. The last one of these I made took hours with itsy-bitsy
(technical term) files and emery paper. I have a "Round-over" end mill
with
a 1/2" radius but I've never seen one that small. Do they exist? I DID
Google and looked at catalogs for all the usual mill suppliers. I could
make it in two parts but that would be a wash, time wise.

A 1/16 round over end mill should be a stock size. I know for a fact
that we have about six or 7 of them in our cutter bin at work.

You might be best off just phoning a (relatively) local supplier and
asking, but MSC will probably have them.

Lesse....
McMaster Carr item 3067A11 in hss, 2790A71 in cobalt steel. Pg.2249 in
cat #107 So these numbers may or may not be any good.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

It helps to be looking for something using the right name for it...Duhh.
What catalog do you have? I have 111 and 112 and I found the mill but
nowhere near your page numbers. (How do you like that, I now get a new
catalog from them every year rather than every other year as before...I'm
quite impressed with their service and even their prices lately.)

Tom Gardner wrote:
Lesse....
McMaster Carr item 3067A11 in hss, 2790A71 in cobalt steel. Pg.2249 in
cat #107 So these numbers may or may not be any good.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

It helps to be looking for something using the right name for it...Duhh.
What catalog do you have? I have 111 and 112 and I found the mill but
nowhere near your page numbers. (How do you like that, I now get a new
catalog from them every year rather than every other year as before...I'm
quite impressed with their service and even their prices lately.)

Uhhhh.... That would be cat # 107, same as before.

:-)

Cheers
Trevor Jones

Uhhhh.... That would be cat # 107, same as before.

:-)

Cheers
Trevor Jones

I was just testing you to see if you would stick to your story.

According to Tom Gardner :
Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one of
the sides. The last one of these I made took hours with itsy-bitsy
(technical term) files and emery paper. I have a "Round-over" end mill with
a 1/2" radius but I've never seen one that small. Do they exist? I DID
Google and looked at catalogs for all the usual mill suppliers. I could
make it in two parts but that would be a wash, time wise.

It sounds to me as though you would do better in cutting the
slot with a conventional milling cutter (for a horizontal spindle mill)
instead of an endmill, and while we're about it, (assuming that you will
be making enough of these to make it worthwhile) you can get another
milling cutter a bit wider reground by a good sharpener to produce the
radius on both sides at the same time. Perhaps even one could be ground
to produce the slot at full depth and both radii in a single pass, so
you don't have to be constantly changing cutters.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...


you don't have to be constantly changing cutters.

Or build a simple fixture to run both (or all three) cutters at once. If the
run was long enough, a fixture could be made to hold multiple parts for each
operation. This of course assumes the part would be run on a proper
horizontal using an arbour with the ground spacer bushings.

I'm not sure having one cutter for both the slot and the rad would be a
great idea. If each rad and the slot are cut individually, all the cutters
are probably off-the-shelf. Specially ground cutters are expensive to buy,
expensive to sharpen, and expensive to replace in the case of a crash.

Regards,

Robin

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
. com...

I only have to make one Don, and the slot is already done with a cutter.

It doesn't seem economical to buy any specific tooling for this part if you
one need one unit. It sounds like the actual dimension and form of the rad
is somewhat unimportant, as long as there is something there to catch your
wire.

If I didn't have a die grinder, I'd use a file too. Why did it take 2 hours
of bench work last time (perhaps I'm missing something)?

Regards,

Robin

According to Tom Gardner :

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
According to Tom Gardner :
Imagine a 1" cube of O-1 with a 1/8" slot milled 9/16 deep through the
center of a face. I need to put a 1/16" radius on the two edges on one

[ ... ]

It sounds to me as though you would do better in cutting the
slot with a conventional milling cutter (for a horizontal spindle mill)
instead of an endmill, and while we're about it, (assuming that you will
be making enough of these to make it worthwhile) you can get another
milling cutter a bit wider reground by a good sharpener to produce the
radius on both sides at the same time. Perhaps even one could be ground
to produce the slot at full depth and both radii in a single pass, so
you don't have to be constantly changing cutters.

[ ... ]

I only have to make one Don, and the slot is already done with a cutter. I
just need to radius the sides of the slot. The part will be a guide for
.110" x .017" flat wire that will be poking into the slot from about a half
inch away, very fast. Then the wir gets cut and pulled out...kinda'. The
radius is only to keep the cut edges from hanging-up as it gets inserted
into the slot in the block and make sure it ends up in position.

O.K. For that, you could live with a bevel cut with a 90 degree
conventional milling cutter doing both sides at once -- or even using a
countersink as an end mill. (Yes - I have done that last -- before I had
my horizontal mill and some of the interesting cutter shapes.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

According to Robin S. :

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...


you don't have to be constantly changing cutters.

Or build a simple fixture to run both (or all three) cutters at once. If the
run was long enough, a fixture could be made to hold multiple parts for each
operation. This of course assumes the part would be run on a proper
horizontal using an arbour with the ground spacer bushings.

I'm not sure having one cutter for both the slot and the rad would be a
great idea. If each rad and the slot are cut individually, all the cutters
are probably off-the-shelf. Specially ground cutters are expensive to buy,
expensive to sharpen, and expensive to replace in the case of a crash.

You could even stack the two radius cutters and the slotting
cutter to do it all in one pass -- except that the conventional radius
cutters which I have seen tend to have a bit too much meat to even go
into the 1/8" slot, which is why I was suggesting a custom tool.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

It doesn't seem economical to buy any specific tooling for this part if
you
one need one unit. It sounds like the actual dimension and form of the rad
is somewhat unimportant, as long as there is something there to catch your
wire.

If I didn't have a die grinder, I'd use a file too. Why did it take 2
hours of bench work last time (perhaps I'm missing something)?

Regards,

Robin

The slot is only 1/8 and it's hard to get a good swipe at it with the files
and the O-1 is tough and I'm lazy and I bore easily. But, the first one has
been in service for 18 months and still perfectly smoothe. I'll buy the $34
mill from MC, it's solid carbide and there are two more similar parts I need
to make so I can justify it. This machine will make me the largest producer
of flat wire brushes in the world! Bwahhahahah!

http://www.bakedeco.com/a/butcher-block-brush-4439.htm

O.K. For that, you could live with a bevel cut with a 90 degree
conventional milling cutter doing both sides at once -- or even using a
countersink as an end mill. (Yes - I have done that last -- before I had
my horizontal mill and some of the interesting cutter shapes.

Enjoy,
DoN.

I've heard about you and your "Interesting Shapes"!

....I could use a 90 deg cutter and...maybe I won't spend the$34.

On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 23:44:51 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:
If one piece is all that is needed, just dress a concave radius in a
wheel, and do the job on a surface grinder.

John Normile


I only have to make one Don, and the slot is already done with a cutter. I
just need to radius the sides of the slot. The part will be a guide for
.110" x .017" flat wire that will be poking into the slot from about a half
inch away, very fast. Then the wir gets cut and pulled out...kinda'. The
radius is only to keep the cut edges from hanging-up as it gets inserted
into the slot in the block and make sure it ends up in position.

John Normile wrote:

On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 23:44:51 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:
If one piece is all that is needed, just dress a concave radius in a
wheel, and do the job on a surface grinder.

John Normile



I only have to make one Don, and the slot is already done with a cutter. I
just need to radius the sides of the slot. The part will be a guide for
.110" x .017" flat wire that will be poking into the slot from about a half
inch away, very fast. Then the wir gets cut and pulled out...kinda'. The
radius is only to keep the cut edges from hanging-up as it gets inserted
into the slot in the block and make sure it ends up in position.





Just buttin in...ever thought of using ceramic wire guides, Tom? Seems
to me I saw a guide that was pretty darned close to what you have
described at the wire convention in Atlanta a few years back.
Unfortunately, the company name eludes me now. With all the various
wire guides you use, there may be an off the shelf solution available.
Ceramic guides do last one heck of a long time but of course, must me
mounted in a steel backer of some sort.

Not exactly right for what you are speaking of but one example for a 10
second search: http://ceramtex.com/slottedeyelets

Koz

In article ,
says...


Not exactly right for what you are speaking of but one example for a 10
second search: http://ceramtex.com/slottedeyelets


I was thinking the same thing, though it sounds like these guides may
take a beating, so carbide might be better. I've used both ceramic and
carbide eyelets and guides from these folks...
http://www.wireguides.com/Products/finishIntro.html

I don't see anything there that looks like what I'm imagining from Tom's
decription, but they do specials, and delivery isn't too bad.

Ned Simmons

Just buttin in...ever thought of using ceramic wire guides, Tom? Seems to
me I saw a guide that was pretty darned close to what you have described
at the wire convention in Atlanta a few years back. Unfortunately, the
company name eludes me now. With all the various wire guides you use,
there may be an off the shelf solution available. Ceramic guides do last
one heck of a long time but of course, must me mounted in a steel backer
of some sort.

Not exactly right for what you are speaking of but one example for a 10
second search: http://ceramtex.com/slottedeyelets

Koz

Hmmmm?!

Thanks, bookmarked!

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...


Not exactly right for what you are speaking of but one example for a 10
second search: http://ceramtex.com/slottedeyelets


I was thinking the same thing, though it sounds like these guides may
take a beating, so carbide might be better. I've used both ceramic and
carbide eyelets and guides from these folks...
http://www.wireguides.com/Products/finishIntro.html

I don't see anything there that looks like what I'm imagining from Tom's
decription, but they do specials, and delivery isn't too bad.

Ned Simmons