Ok I've got one for the electric wizards,

The facts: 1 "John Reiner" 2K watt generator brush type w/ a Wisconsin
robin engine. picked up used over the summer, worked well put about 10hrs on
it. There is no nameplate on the generator end.

The Problem: Hooked it up the other night to run my boiler and it would
only put out 80v. I manually goosed the throttle/gov and it picked right up
to 129v and stayed there under load no prob ran it for about 4hrs. Next
morning it starts out ok but drops to 30v and stays there. Engine seems to
be fine w/constant rpms throughout. I can't find any shorts in the windings
, no burnt or loose wires the brushes look ok. I have no paper on this unit
and a Google yielded little of use.

I'm not sure what to test next,I have a multi meter/amp and can set up for a
load test but no scope. Any suggestions?

Andrew

"metal" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:54:13 -0500, "AndrewV"
wrote:



You said it's a "brush type"; by which you mean it has an "old style"
rotating field powered by DC ?

Yes

What type of regulator does it use?

not sure
Is it a sealed 'module', or a circuit-board, or just a couple of
power-resistors and "transformer-looking things" (saturable-reactor
regulator) ??
no on the sealed module or circuit board In the box (where the 120 outlets
are) there is a transformer and 2 capicters about 5" long 1.5" around.

The first thing to do is measure the voltage across the field...and
see what it reads when the genset's working properly. See if it's
steady, or jumping around wildly.

If it's jumping UP while the output-V is glitching DOWN; then you
likely have a stuck brush. I.e., it's stuck in the holder; and not
pressing firmly against the slip-ring. Pretty common problem.

I will measure as you sugest but I know the brushes move freely and make
good contact w/ slip ring.

I have an engine-driven Lincoln welder in the yard-truck which does
this at least once a winter. I have to let it warm up a minute or
two; and smack it on the side a couple times g ; then it will
suddenly kick in. Just isn't doing it often enough to motivate me to
go through the whole disassembly process... g

fwiw, a lot of the gensets in your category will run 20-40vdc on the
field; and take about 1-3 amps flowing in the field at full output.

Normally, the field power is derived from the main-windings; via a
bridge-rectifier and some power resistors. In a high-end genset;
there will also be a current-transformer; which is used to sense the
load-current, and increase the field-voltage proportionally. This
eliminates almost all load-induced sag. I kinda doubt that little
unit has one; but thought I should mention it for completeness.

yes on the bridge-rectifier not sure about the rest I might not know what
the parts look like.
good luck with it...sounds like a nice little unit.
It was worked well and it was cheap so it doesn't owe me anything. It seems
to be rugedly built (2k gen weighs 120 pounds) and once if figure out whats
wrong it should be easy to repair. If I get a chance later I'll put a
picture in the dropbox.

Thanks for the reply

Andrew

On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:54:13 -0500, "AndrewV"
wrote:

Ok I've got one for the electric wizards,

The facts: 1 "John Reiner" 2K watt generator brush type w/ a Wisconsin
robin engine. picked up used over the summer, worked well put about 10hrs on
it. There is no nameplate on the generator end.

The Problem: Hooked it up the other night to run my boiler and it would
only put out 80v. I manually goosed the throttle/gov and it picked right up
to 129v and stayed there under load no prob ran it for about 4hrs. Next
morning it starts out ok but drops to 30v and stays there. Engine seems to
be fine w/constant rpms throughout. I can't find any shorts in the windings
, no burnt or loose wires the brushes look ok. I have no paper on this unit
and a Google yielded little of use.

I'm not sure what to test next,I have a multi meter/amp and can set up for a
load test but no scope. Any suggestions?

'Metal' has some suggestions for the electric side - but there's
another sore spot that's the more likely source of the problem. If
it's a brush type machine and it's only used intermittently, the
brushes get stuck in their holders (or wear out after long use), the
brush pressure springs get weak or break, and/or the slip rings get
dirty and make poor contact.

Ideal Industries still (100 plus years) sells commutator cleaning
stones pre-mounted on a stick, go ask at a local electrical wholesale
house. Look at your generator first to see if you need the 'straight'
or 'angled' style.

You stuff the working end of the cleaning stone in through the
generator's side access hole and lightly wipe off the crud with the
engine running, and the output voltage miraculously pops up...

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.